Good to hear!

My thought was that I’d rather have the head pressure a little higher on the cooler day that I did this repair. As opposed to cleaning it, having a sopping wet coil and have my head pressure even lower. As you can see from my readings, even with a full charge the dirty coil didn’t effect the head pressure.

Good to hear

Good Rule of Thumb!

That’s only for no load so if it’s 68 return air then the suction line temp should be arround 30

@arrealhandymanservice4459 suction saturation would be 33 degrees at 68 degree return air, so any temperature over the SST "33" would be superheat. 30-degree suction line would indicate flooding.

Guess we’ll know where the leak is then.

Love them. But the testo gauges, and testo smart probes are the only brand of electronic gauges I’ve used so I can’t compare them to others. I was on analog up until about 2 years ago.

@@JeffsHVACAdventures thanks.👍👍

@@JeffsHVACAdventures Fieldpiece is rock solid. Never used Testo.

United Refrigeration is where I got the leak soap and the One and Done. Really only used this brand because it was available. But I do use Easy Seal exclusively now.

@@JeffsHVACAdventures Thanks Jeff! Much appreciated sir!!!

How is it use with 410a? Psi on the vapor line is usually in the 100psi and u need them to be under 65 psi. Thanks for the input.​@@JeffsHVACAdventures

Bring the system up to full charge first and then add the sealant.

@@JeffsHVACAdventures Thanks Jeff. Is it okay to charge the refrigerant when switch is in lockout? I assume that the 410 tank pressure will add enough to deactivate the lockout, but not sure.

@@H2ObarryField yea, it should take a good 3-4 lbs with the system not running. Should be enough to close the LPS.

@@JeffsHVACAdventures Thanks, Jeff. It worked!

It didn’t affect the head pressure as much as you would think.

Seems in line.

What color was the bottle of refrigerant

Leak stopper is like $40 on amazon and can be done at the same time as adding r-22 so he worked you hard on that upgrade.

Probably spent $30 in r-22 and should have taken all of 20 minutes to do.

That coil really needed cleaning, even a complimentary water hose spray down

Agreed.

You should always change the line set when replacing the equipment when possible. But if you keep the same line set It wouldn’t bother it at all as long as you flush it properly.

@@JeffsHVACAdventures Blow a cleaner peg through it.

United Refrigeration sells the One and Done brand

Agreed. You need to open the high side and immediately purge. Otherwise, the air in your lines is leaking back into the system while you wait. The faster you purge after letting gas in the gauges the better. Ball valves are good for this, but you have to be quick while the pressure equalizes. Every second it is equalized allows air contamination to flow back into the high side connection. This is called diffusion. Higher concentrations move to areas of lower concentration by gas type. Hence, the air in the lines will bleed back into the system so long as the ball valve is open on the high side source. Minimizing the time the line is exposed to the high side source with air still in the lines is important. Bleed it quickly. Once you do that, you can take some time to push the stop leak in. A tiny bit is probably all that is required. You put a lot of liquid in the low side. I'd have turned it (the ball valve) each time very momentarily and do it half as many times as you did. Getting that last 3% of stop leak in there is less important than all that liquid on the suction side.

Sticky sealants stick to your compressor too. So it will shorten its life. Like stop leak on oil leaks in your car. Cheap, but no really good in the long run. Last ditch effort for more time.

62F degree day. The subcooling shown would keep it fairly cool even with that level for that day. So the owner left it on. The subcooling was so low, it was just keeping up but running constantly. No match for a 90F degree day though.

@@anthonylosego thanks for ur response.

Yes it’s a joke that only you understood.

@@JeffsHVACAdventures I understand your pension for working with customers. But for better results, insist on leak fixes. I suspect the Schrader valves may have had a hand in this leak. Simple fix, but a leak check could result in a paying customer and do it right. Better in the long run for the customer.

​@@anthonylosegoi do push for leak searches. Most of the time, customers cheap out and take the least expensive route. This particular customer actually just sold this house last week, so that's why he was so cheap on this repair last year.