+arty art123 Thanks arty! That's exactly why I decided to start doing videos, I wanted to make sure the real info gets out there. This was one of my earliest videos, I'm hoping I've gotten a bit better at it since then. Glad to have you aboard!

carlosprite Thanks! I try to do an in-depth examination of each piece of equipment and include information that you will not find in other videos and, in some cases, it's not even in the manual that comes with the device. I'm working on more videos and will be putting more up very soon. Thanks again!

Allan Bancroft Thanks Allan! It's a great trimmer. I do wish it had a microadjustable cutter spindle and a shavings catcher. I sent those suggestions to Hornady so hopefully it will be improved in the future. It could even be sold as an after market part. Oh well, wishful thinking I guess, I'm glad you liked the "Stupidity Alert"! I notice that this video has a dislike...how much you want to bet that came from someone who broke their power adapter with a drill? Thanks Again! Hornady Loader

Dirk Moore Thanks Dirk! Glad to have you on board!

+chinaman0389 Thanks! Glad to have you aboard and welcome to the brotherhood of reloaders!

+Donald North Thanks Donald, and you're welcome!

Lou Flores Thanks Lou! Glad you liked it!

richard allen Thanks Richard, That's what I'm shooting for. There are a lot of videos on just about everything out there so I want to make sure mine contain a bit of extra info that people can use. Hornady Loader

+CDizzle Hi CDizzle, I've had a few folks ask about the same type of problem. In most cases, it's because of the pressure that folks are putting on the handle. If you push in too hard, the friction between the adjustment nut and the frame tends to unscrew the adjustment nut a little (even with the lock nut tightened) and causes the trimmer to get out of adjustment. It takes a little practice to get the right "feel" for how much pressure to put on the handle. My best advice is to let the tool do the work. Pressing harder on the handle won't make the process go any faster. If that's not the issue, then it could also be that the case is slightly crooked on the trimmer pilot, but typically that results in some cases being longer and some shorter. If you're getting trimmer creep that is consistently making the cases shorter, my money would be on the adjustment nut moving due to the friction between it and the frame. You might try a light coat of dry lube like Teflon of graphite on the part of the adjustment nut that contacts the frame. I use Hornady One Shot case lube or gun cleaner for that sort of thing but there are a lot of similar products out there.

+HornadyLoader That was my guess too was too much pressure on the handle. I did about 80 cases and about half way I started having problems.. I got a little tired and instead of using my fingers I used my palm...Then I couldn't get it dialed back to 1.750 I was like 1.746 or 1.753 which I ended up just running with it a hair short. This is mostly range ammo to practice for 3gun so If I can keep 2-3 moa accuracy I'll be ok. Also do you know if they make a 3 way cutter for the camlock trimmer that chamfers and deburs as well?

+CDizzle Hi, actually, they do make chamfer and debur tools for it. They screw in and replace the cutter holder. The part number is 050147 and you can get them from Midway USA or other places that sell Hornady stuff. My only complaint with them is that they're rather spendy, Midway sells the set of two for $38...

HornadyLoader Ahh I was hoping for a 3 way cutter like the RCBS version. Maybe I can adapt that cutter head to fit.v

JBBooks4440 Yup, that's a good one, I'm gonna try the "World's Finest Trimmer" one of these days

This is happening because the cam lock pushes the shell forward in the shell holder, the trim length is changed by the rim thickness , different brands of shells or rim damage , none of these blokes tell you this stuff, use the same brand brass or use a trimmer that held by the base eg,redding, then different brands don't matter

RUDY8501 Hi Rudy, I don't recall ever having the battery die before I was done with a trimming session. I usually only did batches of 100 to 150 at a time though. For the past few years, I typically use my Power Case Prep Center for larger jobs and only use the Cam-Lock trimmer for quick jobs when I have the Prep Center adjusted for another project and don't want to change it. That being said, I did have a cordless screwdriver that crapped out on me once. It was a cheap "no brand name" one that would no longer take a charge after only 5 or 6 months of use. The Black & Decker that I used in the video has been going for almost 5 years now for both trimming and for use as a screwdriver for projects around the house. Thanks for watching!

+REDMANKLAN Hi, Thanks for watching! The steps I take and the order I do them changes depending on the type of load I'm doing. For a basic load that I'm going to use for plinking, I clean them, then trim, chamfer, debur and size. That's about it. For my match grade stuff, I go through a lot more steps. I always deprime them first, then wet tumble, dry them out, dry tumble them, sort them, then trim, chamfer, debur, size, turn the necks, debur the flash hole, and uniform the primer pocket. In that order. I always clean them first, before any other operation, regardless of whether it's for plinking or a match load. I used to just dry tumble without depriming for plinking loads, but I've changed to always depriming, then wet tumbling, drying, and dry tumbling for all loads. Cleaning them first makes it easier to identify cracks, splits, and other defects before moving on to other operations. You can check out my video titled, "Developing a Match Grade Load - Advanced Case Prep" for details of all the steps. Glad to have you aboard!

HornadyLoader shouldn’t you size then trim,, because doesn’t sizing lengthen the case?

The Trimming tool arrived three days ago and i am pretty happy to say i was wrong! The way the trimmer works is perfect! It is always pressed against the (fixed) base as it should!

Glad to have you aboard!

J Heimer Hi J Heimer, If you're having trouble hitting the trim length exactly, there's nothing wrong with setting it to a few thousandths longer to avoid over-trimming. You can look at the trim length as the minimum length. So as long as you have the cases trimmed somewhere between the minimum and maximum, you are good to go. If you're looking for precision loads, you want to make sure each case is trimmed to the same length for consistency, but don't stress too much if your cases are slightly longer than the minimum. As to the second question, normally you would decap and size before trimming, since the sizing process is where the cases can stretch. You might want to invest in a neck lubricator which uses a dry mica to lube the inside of the neck wall for just this kind of problem. Lyman, Forster, and Frankford Arsenal all have a neck lubricator. Go to MidwayUSA.com and search for "neck lubricator" for more info. They're only around $10 to $15. That being said, cases tend to stretch over a period of time where they are sized many times, so trimming BEFORE sizing will be fine if you can't get the problem resolved. A single sizing operation won't stretch the case so much that it goes over maximum. Measure your cases before and after sizing to see the difference. Thanks for the great question! Hornady Loader

J Heimer Oh, I forgot, As to the question about chamfering and deburring. The chambering/deburring process shouldn't be changing the length of your cases. If it does, you are overdoing it. All you need to do is hold the case up to the tool and let the tool do the work, don't press the case in too hard. All you're trying to accomplish is to get any burrs or imperfections off the case.

+richard allen Hi Richard, if the adjustment nut/lock nut is moving then I'd say you're pressing way too hard. My brother taught me a long time ago to "Let the tool do the work". Pressing harder on it won't make it go any faster. Find a comfortable pressure and get in the habit of doing it the same way each time. The cutter will trim the case pretty much the same with a lighter pressure as it will with a harder pressure. You'll get the hang of it, it just takes some practice and developing the "muscle memory" for trimming cases. I do wish Hornady would make a few changes to the trimmer to avoid that kind of thing, but it does work well once you find your groove.

+556 Bandit I'll see what I can put together. Thanks for the suggestion!

+Tom Campbell And the Pilots,? How they are made to fit into the Wooden slots also.? Cool.?

I just used two pieces of scrap 3/4" birch, about 8" x 10"( I'm guessing as shop is now closed) drilled 1/2" holes in both bases and mounted one for the trimmer to reloading bench and second of the same size for the powder reloading tube and powder throw. That way both bases can be bolted temporarily in the same place. Also drilled holes for different pilots, used 1/8" bit and drilled about 3/8" - be sure to not drill too deep. I just set drill press at depth I wanted to drill. About 20 min.

Cade Marti I have same problem I been looking for answers on it as well see what will fix that

+Prepare2Survive Wouldn't that be great? Maybe someday someone will put something like that together. It would sure save some workbench space. One can hope...

+MyREDTAIL They're probably talking about the power adapter. A lot of folks use a drill to power the trimmer and the power adapter breaks off. That's because they're using a drill instead of a battery powered screwdriver as specified in the instructions. They're simply using the tool improperly and then complain when it doesn't work.

hehe, keep watching

Ahh, I see now later in the video you did keep a case for setup...

+HornadyLoader is there a primer pocket uniformer and chamfer attachments for this as accessories?

+nx330mustang You can get chamfer/debur attachments for it. A primer pocket uniformer isn't practical since that's the wrong end of the case.

+HornadyLoader This the borrect kit? www.hornady.com/store/Cam-Lock-Trimmer-Deburr-Tool-1-Each/