The automotive school we wanted to go to but it didn't exist, Total Seal and Lake Speed.

“Rough up the surface so the rings have something to seat against” is the most info I’ve heard regarding this subject up until this. Excellent info

I've learned a lot watching this channel. I just recently brought a motorcycle cylinder to an automotive machine shop. I now know enough to ask the the right questions. They were somewhat amazed that i asked their honing procedures.

🔔😎 25 yrs ago that was my job at the race engine shop. After much coercing I received the latest tech hone stones and nylon bottle brush. Results were +11 hp on our first try on spec 355 SBC circle track engine. This averaged about that on every subsequent engine. I didnt have those great micro gauges, just old tech. Really enjoyed this video information. THANK YOU 🔔😎

I used to only think about engine oil between the crank and bearings or timing chains and cam lobes and I always missed the oil that lives in the cross hatching. Just thinking about the heat, pressures, and hostile environment that that tiny film of oil is exposed to. And that it's constantly exposed to gasoline. Crazy!

I'm not a machinist, but your lectures are very interesting, it sparks the desire of learning this trade😍

The shop I worked at 25 years ago used the Sunnen soft hone brushes which produced a cylinder finish vert similar to the cylinder finish produced after a short break in. There fore a break in was not needed and you could go directly to the race track or dyno with full load pulls.

Now y’all got me wondering if a burnishing - lapping process, as a extension of the bore preparation, would result in further gains of quality of ring seal and longevity?

Thanks Lake, another great, informative video with actual fact. I think I speak for all serious engine builders when I say, we really appreciate all the time and effort you are putting into getting this information out tu us.

Great information. I’ve been using Goodson plateau hone brushes for nearly 20 years now and have found that the resulting smoother upper surface finish reduces the break in period substantially and improves ring seal to the extent that leak down becomes negligible almost immediately after startup. It would be interesting to see the surface detail before and after the plateau hone brush compared to your results here.

So many back yard "mechanics" use the old honing tool and drill thinking that honing is only to remove imperfections in the bore. Half the time they end up making the bore dead smooth without understanding the true concept of honing. One job i always leave for a good workshop to do with the right machines.

Has anyone else heard of final honing with a brown paper grocery bag and "salad dressing?"

I remember reading a Mercedes paper from the 80s that showed only the initial cycles caused wear, and it only took like 100 cycles for plastic deformation of those peaks to occur for the rings to fully bed.

So if the rings are smoothing up the cylinder walls… how to the ring surfaces look? And would there be any benefit to using another set of rings once the cylinder walls have the perfect finish?

That's Very Interesting. Cool Video Lake...

Very interesting... Would also like to know more about the 30 minute break in process you used. Thanks!

Certain people don't run in engines at all and send them flat out freshly rebuilt after just idling it for a couple minutes to make sure it's working, some people do extremely short run ins but heavily load the engine etc. Whilst I don't believe in either of these methods and prefer a gradually load increasing and longer run in period like you recommend the people that do the opposite don't seem to get punished for it much or at all. You hear the countless and typical stories of "I've been doing it this way since the start of humanity and never had any issues", hard to argue with that sometimes. What gives? What are the risks and drawbacks of running the engine at full tilt right away or doing an extremely short run in only? Obviously for racing series sometimes you have no choice since you want the least mileage and hours on the engine but I'm talking generally speaking and mostly for street usage. What can happen? Burnt rings? Too much wear too quickly that then gets into the oil and circulates? Bore score? Glazing? Longevity - if so why? Do you notice it right away or only many years down the line? Obviously you are going to be running the engine hard "non run-in" so that'll cause it's own issues but what happens afterwards once the hard run in has worn it in very quickly? What are the lasting damages / problems caused by that?

The depth of the surface finish and the seal depends on the viscosity of oil you are planning to use. Less surface depth is ideal for lower viscosity oils and vise versa.

That block looks like it was coated with Glyptal, but I’m not sure if it comes in blue. The ones I’ve seen were always red or brownish red.

Blows my mind how manly channels just start rattling off profilometer numbers without throwing their viewers your 90 sec explanation of the tool

Would you bring able to do a video on piston rings and what type of rings are best for nitrous, boost, na. Also touch upon cylinder wall materials such a plasma arc wire vs a sleeved aluminum block and cast iron block 👍🏻

I love the videos done at PME ! 😊

Very interesting , as always👍 i wonder if you want, do a video about the best way to DIY hone your engine. To get it as right as possible. Method , tools, stone grid etc. Please Like this comment if more want to see this. Cheers

Lake does his usual wisdom

Do this using water for oil with motorkote added in the same ratio that project farm used when his test showed no visible damage from running this way.

I was taught to seat the rings you accelerate and deaccelerate in first gear 30 to 40 x underload !

And on to my frustration that there aren't any reputable shops near me that will do what you ask to the standards you want. Like this. They always "know more" you you do. Even if, like me you are a trade pro. I get a block back that looks like it was honed with a brick.

I have an older 4stone (2 stone/2 wiper) Sunnen hone, I wonder if those diamond stones needed for this process, are available for it?

What about Nikasil walls

Can you please make video about Archoil friction modifier R 9100 .

What does this quality of machining cost

Awesome vid lake .lake did you measure the piston roundness before and after to see if had wear on major thrust side being piston breaking in bore or is the bore wall and piston break each other in interesting thankyou.peace

Please test Stiction Eliminator!

If cylinder walls and valve guides need a little valleys for holding oil, what about rod and main journals? Im sure this was answered 80 years ago. Just another random question. Even if the valleys were less than 20 microns, would that ruin the boundary layer?

Can an oil sample go stale? I oulled a sample a month ago and still haven't mailed it in. The dealership mechanics were impressed with the tool a d process. First change at 1700 miles

Lake, what grit stone did you use to get the 67 RVK?

m I removing some of the rpk by doing that? and is that a good thing on a bore that only has whatever surface the machine shop achieved with an old school sunnen hone? probably only a single grit hone no less.

Why do you need 2 cameras ???

Was any assembly lubrication product used on on the cylinder walls during assembly?

Would that Profilometer's resolution be considered at the microscopic level or not quite?

How much clearance change is there from hone to break in?

Lake, you REALLY need to can the "side view" shot of your mug. Looks like yer talking to a wall

Your video cut off at the.....