your not alone. my 2007 needs the rear replaced and im gonna do it this weekend, id recommend lots of PB or WD40 before hand. and a breaker bar. the caliber its a great commute car tbh just needs proper care

Mine rusted so bad the lower control arm broke right out of the frame and hit the ground. Luckily we were in a parking lot, not out on the road.

@@timkeiper8588 I just replaced the lower arms 2 months ago, now the upper arms messed up and my subframe cracked... it just cost me 1000 to repair on Thanksgiving

I got lucky they broke off with enough room to get a pipe wrench on them.

​@Viral Workaholic what if you can't get a pipe wrench on them?

@@cnubz1107 I am 3 months late to give you advice on this, but just in case someone comes along with a similar problem I'll give my 2 cents. The easiest and most surefire method is to just weld a nut onto them if you can weld and its not broken off down under the surface. Otherwise get some pb blaster or similar lubricant down into the threads and let it soak and reapply as much as you have patience for, then drill a hole into the bolt shaft and get as big of a bolt extractor bit into the hole as far as possible then start cranking "lefty loosey", and pray the bolt breaks loose before the extractor breaks off. you could also try heating the area around the bolt with a torch, it might expand enough to break lose from the bolt, or at least relieve a little pressure while you're cranking on that extractor bit

Took me 2 days total working at easy the exhaust was the toughest part by myself I cut in 2 places to make it easier for me.

The rear frame I bought used from Stoystown Auto parts in Pennsylvania. The front I ordered online. It was less expensive online and it was new. It can be more difficult chosing the correct part with so many options online. Do your due diligence to get the one for your specific vehicle. Make sure it has the hardware and get it online.

I’m curious too??

I did this same job on a customers car and 2 of the bolts broke on me also i spray the bolts with penetrating oil there was so much rust on everything that the penetrating oil did not do anything I used a torch thinking it would help but it did not so after the bolts broke off I was able to heat the area around the stud that was left and with a vice grip I was able to remove both bolts and we order new bolts and replaced them. It was a free job I work at a shop that had a girl working there and the car came in with a grinding noise from the rear the girl told them it was the brakes that was making the noise the customer say ok do it she change the brakes and the noise was still there she went crazy trying to find the noise was not able to find the noise so the manager told me to go find the noise and it turns out the noise was coming from the rear sub frame being broken the replacement sub frame cost $300 because the brakes was missed diagnose the customer got free brakes and a free alignment and free subframe and free Labor the customer got there car back with all new parts everything fix and paid $0 out of pocket the shop took the hit.

This weekend I'm going after brakes and the wheel bearing on one side.

@@viralworkaholic6766 where did you find the part for this? I can only find rear crossmember for the 4 wheel drive...

@@briarg1485 That 2wd looks like the same subframe as my 4wd. But as Tim said, replacement is a lot more work on the 4wd. BTW, some torque specs would be helpful here.

I am in the middle of changing out the rear sub frame for a 2010 Jeep Patriot Limited 4wd and NO it is not easy. Mine has severe rust and most of the bolts take a lot of TLC to get them off/out without breaking them. I am down to one major task now, getting the left rear CV shaft out of the hub. This CV shaft is seriously stuck. I have now tried tow different tools designed to push the shaft out of the hub with no luck at all. It appears that I will have to remove the hub/bearing assembly with the CV shat and use a hydraulic press to remove the shaft. I have three (3) of the four (4) bolt that hold the sub-frame to the uni-body loose but one of them is giving me a fit not wanting to break loose. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the outer side of the uni-body so I can spray PB Blaster into the channel of the uni-body hoping the penetrating fluid will get to the top of the bolt and help. I know that the nut for this bolt is spot welded to the channel piece of the uni-body and I don't want to break the but loose either. I cannot get the bolts that hold the transmission to the sub-frame to loosen up either. Hopefully I can get this sub-frame and tranny out together onto the shop floor and see a better way to loosen these tranny mounting bolts.