jellybean895 I believe you have to drain water out of it to decrease that.

Thanks for the comment.

Thanks, and it did only take a few dollars to clear up this pool. Please consider checking out my website for more information and in-depth explanations on why pools go cloudy and green and exactly how to clear them up: www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-resources.html

Hi Pat. To go through everything you need to know about taking care of a pool in a YT comment is time prohibitive. It's for that reason why I have written an eBook Clear Blue Pool. it goes into detail about what you need to do and exactly what products to use to have a great looking pool.

Thank you

HTH Algae Guard is QUATERNARY AMMONIUM COMPOUNDS, BENZYL-C12-18-ALKY and Alkyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride. Fancy chemical name but it's basically this; you're trying to fight algae use ammonia. You need chlorine to kill the algae. HTH Super Select is nothing more than calcium hypochlorite, probably just marked up 200%. You're spending too much time and money on your pool. You need to STOP!! STOP!! STOP!! pouring money into this thing. There are only 2 groups of people who are happy with you doing that and one of them ain't you. I can clear up a nasty green/black 20k gallon pool in 5 - 6 days for around $35. I've posted 2 video series on doing just that. Another pool went slightly green/cloudy and within 2 days and $4.50 it was perfectly clear and balanced and still is today. It's so simple but you must know the chemical numbers. How To Clear Up Cloudy Swimming Pool Water Take control of your pool and get a good test kit, the Taylor K-2006. I've made several videos on exactly how to use it. If you're on city water then we can assume a smaller chance of metals in the water. If you're on a well then we can assume the metals are higher. To get the pool under control we must have all the numbers - chlorine, pH, TA, hardness, and stabilizer. If you feel your situation is more complex than this, I do phone consultations for a donation of your choice. It makes things go much faster and many people have found it extremely beneficial, saving them time and money in the long run. All your questions will be answered. I have nothing to sell you so you know I'm not bias. Pool Consultation Hope this helps and have a great Summer. Robert

I was too. It really doesn't take too much for a pool to go cloudy. The CL still read at 2.0 but I suspect some of it was bound up due to the heavy rains. We got nearly 4" of rain in 3 days. I went back to the pool 2 days after it stopped raining. That's a total of 5 unattended days and this is what I found so I decided to do a video. Maybe it was for the best.

+Darryl Gelfan Hi Darryl. I totally understand your frustration. In fact, hearing stories like yours is the driving force behind wanting to have a comprehensive website and You tube channel that offers real solutions to pool owners. A good place for you to start is the resources page on my site: www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-resources.html - Swimming Pool Resources eBooks. You can also go to the videos page: www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/green-pool-video.html - Green Pool Video. Those pictures are from pools that I've personally cleared up, pool owners that have my eBooks, or had personal consults. And you can go to the Q&A page: www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/questions-and-answers.html - Pool Questions and Answers where I've answered over 1000 questions. My site is as complete as possible but it's difficult to touch on every situation and every circumstance. Some situations are unique and yours sounds like it falls into this category. I would be happy to spend the time necessary to address your unique concerns personally through a consultation. Consultations can be done via telephone or Skype, whichever you feel will meet your need the best. I only charge $37 for this service in an effort to make pool ownership affordable and understandable. Go to the links above, see if your problem is addressed in a way that's useful to you, and if not I'm available to help.

Josh Harris I only use the Taylor K-2006 kit. It's the best and will give you the most accurate readings. I've made several detailed videos on how to use it.

Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide Perfect. And ordered. Thanks again.

+Rick Miranda You can use liquid chlorine or unscented bleach. Both work very well.

+Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide ok thanks!

Wayne G First, I'd like to have your complete chemical readings, the actual numbers: Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper) and names of any algaecides you may have used along with clarifiers, phosphate removers, and/or flocs. It makes troubleshooting much easier and the process of clearing up your pool will go much faster.I also need the kind of filter you have and if it's working properly. If it's not working it must be fixed in order to clear up the pool.

Jesse Sanchez Yes, it was 2.5 gallons of chlorine. That's how the local pool store sells it.

Frank Vita Hi. I'm not sure what you mean by "buy the stuff". Post a complete set of your chemical numbers including the kind of filter you have and we can go from there. The reason this pool went cloudy is because we got close to 9" of rain in 3 days. It bottomed out the FC and TA.

Same

I'd like to have your complete chemical readings, the actual numbers: Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper) and names of any algaecides you may have used along with clarifiers, phosphate removers, and/or flocs. It makes troubleshooting much easier and the process of clearing up your pool will go much faster. As you've seen in this video, and others I've done, I give the chemical numbers and stress their importance. Without these numbers I'm just guessing at what the problem is. Get back to me with the chemical numbers and I'm sure I can help.

Hi Barbara. First is your pH which is too high. FC works better at a slightly lower pH when the CYA is in line, which yours is. 7.0 - 7.2 is what you want. ProTeam Metal Magic is good stuff if you have higher copper. Stop using calcium hardness. That's mainly for plaster pools. I also don't have your filter kind but keep that cleaned out. Use 2 gallons of chlorine and sweep very well. Then 12 hours later add another 2 gallons and sweep. Clean the filter.

Biggdogginem 985 I had same problem. A bit of sodium bicarbonate to raise alkalinity to 80, then I used 2 boxes of borax 20 mule team to increase ph. That did the trick. Ph from 6.8 to 7.2. It was still cloudy. A bottle of floculator did the trick. It had to sit about 20 hours with the pump off. Once I got the cloudy out I could see the bottom to vacuum. To waste. Now I'm good. 20x40.

lcagee thanks man I finally figured it out after watching this video. I added the baking soda to get my ta correct. notice the pool cleared instantly. then I decided to check my cya want any there. so I added a balancer to raise my cya now everything running smooth. those kits are really a must to have and know how to use them because if you don't you will blow a lot of unnecessary money on chemicals you really don't need. I also drain 10% of my water after heavy rain then refill. I think I have finally mastered this now. Hopefully lol

Shock it

You don't need to worry about phosphates. Here's a video I did about that: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bJ-EopmY2bvLhY0.html You need to stop talking to them. They're going to sell you so many more chemicals that you'll end up spending hundreds in a futile attempt to clear it up. Post a set of chem numbers and we can go from there. I also have eBooks and consults available if you want to personally talk with me. As you can see in this video I cleared up this pool in a couple of days. It's easy when you know what to do and understand what's going on.

If you used granular chlorine, it's probably the calcium that has settled. Leave the pump off for a few hours and allow the particles to settle, then vacuum to waste. Top off your water. Best kit is the Taylor K-2006.

Yes I remember the name and pic but not your details. Post a set of numbers and I can see what can be done. Remember that I do offer 90 minute phone consults. Those are very fast and you'll have what you need immediately.

Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide f

High chlorine is fine. Tabs are only meant to dispense 1 ppm FC per day so your chlorine doesn't bottom out. It's used basically as a back-up and is a non-issue when clearing up a pool. Chemicals don't clear up the water, they balance the water. My website has everything you need to know about clearing up your pool: www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-resources.html

Here's a video i did on clearing up a pool. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gLN8rNmTrbaZpY0.html. If you still need more, please check out my website: www.clean-pool-and-spa.com. Thanks and have a great Summer!!

Don’t watch KZfaq it would have been cheaper to drain it

Hi. Pool RX is nothing more than adding metals to the water. It does nothing to help clear it up. A full set of chemical numbers will help.

3 lbs. really shouldn't do too much. For a 15k gallon pool, 4 lbs. of baking soda will only raise the alkalinity 20 ppm. Let it filter for 12 hours or so, then retest. If the alkalinity is up a bit, you can add maybe 20 oz. of muriatic acid to lower it. 14lbs. would have raised it over 70 ppm.

1.5 gallons of chlorine to increase it to 12 - 15ppm and maintain that AM and PM. Remember this is an entire process that may take a few days to a accomplish. It's not simply products to buy but an understanding of why the pool went cloudy and how to fix it.

Chinadoll CYA cannot be removed. Although there is a very expensive and precise treatment that claims that it can remove CYA. I've never seen it successfully used. The best and cheapest way to decrease CYA is to drain your pool, partially or fully. It only costs around $60 to refill a pool with water. Then add proper chems to balance the pool out. CYA will be zeroed out. A bottle of stabilizer and stabilized shock will bring the CYA back up. Don't go too heavy on the stabilizer. It's concentrated.

Hi Jorge. Without seeing and inspecting the particles, I can only give you my best estimate. If the chems are correct and the filter is perfectly working, I would either suspect it's the mosaic particles, or possibly blue-green algae which is not as common as green algae in pools, but can happen. If it's determined that you have blue-green algae, you'd clear it up the same was as a green or cloudy pool. Thanks for the question.

@@cleanpoolspa-ultimateswimm6373 thanks for your help. Someone told me it could be the copper on the algaecide composition.

@@jorgedias3791 It might be copper but you'll need to take a sample of water to your local pool store for analysis. High copper + chlorine can cause a chemical reaction and turn the water a clear emerald green. Iron + chlorine is a murky brown color. If you want to use an algaecide, I recommend a PolyQuat 60 such as Jack's Magic or ProTeam Metal Magic. The ingredient is HEDP. No copper algaecides should ever be used.

@@cleanpoolspa-ultimateswimm6373 appreciate all your help.

John Callahan Hi John. Thanks for the question. What you need can be found on my site. How and when to adjust the chlorine, pH, alkalinity, hardness, and stabilizer (CYA). The amounts are easy for a 5k gallon pool and the charts are available, but there's much more to it. As you see in the video I use baking soda which raises the TA. I never use TA Up or pH Up from the pool store because those products can be found in your grocery store for 1/3 the price. There are things you need to look out for such as "shock". Shock is NOT a product you buy, it's a process of maintaining a high enough FC level to kill the organics in the pool. This can be accomplished with unscented grocery store bleach. The bags of "shock" in your pool store are simply stabilized or unstabilized granular chlorine. There's nothing special about them. But you're told to "shock" the pool and they just happen to have "shock" available. Wrong. Use liquid chlorine and maintain the FC level. As you can see there's much to go over. What kind of chlorine should I use and when? What the difference between stabilized and unstabilized chlorine? When should I use stabilized chlorine and why? Why should I only use liquid chlorine? What about bleach? Are they the same thing? What's granular calcium hypochlorite and how does that compare to liquid chlorine? And I haven't even touched the pH and alkalinity yet. Adding the chemicals and how much to add is easy. It's the other stuff that will cost you a fortune if you're not correctly taught. You can go to the description box and check out my eBooks. Or go to my site for the info. you need. I also offer personal consults.

Thank you ,I will check out your site.

Patricia Roush you many need grids/cartridges, if the pool is balanced and your running pumps long enough.

+Pedmafia Some ways are to allow it to decrease naturally. FC will always decrease in time. Next is a partial drain and refill. The last is to use a chlorine neutralizer called Thiosulfate. I recommend this only in extreme circumstances. It can skew your other readings if not properly used. I would ask why the FC is 35ppm? Don't go on other people's recommendations about triple or quadrupling FC levels. They don't know what they're talking about and can cause damage to your pool. You're the one who will pay the cost, not some self-proclaimed "pool guy" with a KZfaq channel and slick website.

+Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide I've got yellow mustard algae and I've read somewhere that rising clorine to high level will kill algae. In fact it did work last summer and took almost 8 days for it to drop back to 3.5 ppm. I've also tried algeside but it didn't help. Do you have any suggestions on how to fight algae?

+Pedmafia There are a few different ways to attack algae. It depends on your filter kind, chemical numbers, size of pool, etc.. All of that needs to be taken into consideration. There's not simply one way to do it. My entire site is about pools, filter, and water maintenance. I've also written eBooks about it and offer personal consults to those with unique situations. You can find out about that here: www.clean-pool-and-spa.com. You can also get the links you need in the description box above.

Hi Leslie. Without having a complete set of chemical readings, your filter type and pool size, it's a guessing game. Pools can go cloudy for dozens of reasons. I do have many resources on my site that teach all you need to know about the causes of cloudy pools and how to easily clear them up. Here's the link: www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-resources.html. Have a great day.

I have a cloudy pool. We’ve been trying for a week. It was green it’s blue but cloudy. Filter is clean and we’re cleaning it regularly. I finally was able to see the bottom today. Got in to clean it and vacuum and BAM cloudy again. It’s a 20 x 52 intex pool. My ph was low so I added ph up before I watched this video (literally 20 mins ago) 6.2, T.A was 120, total hardness was 250, chlorine was 3, free chlorine was 3 any ideas?

The only difference is pool store TA Up can be 2 - 3 times more expensive. Here's a good video on that - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kLhydc2p27uYnqs.html

You can post a full set of chem numbers. Also your type of filter, fill water (city or well) and kind of pool. Remember that I have eBooks as well that go into great detail about the problems you're experiencing.

Tony Spamony Hello. Your readings seem to be in line with the exception of the FC. Normal range is 2 - 4ppm to kill the organics in the pool. First are the filters. They're new so we can eliminate that source. Next is to define what shocking, or shock, is. Shock IS NOT a product you buy, it's something you do. It's to get AND KEEP the FC level up to 12ppm until the bacteria and algae are dead. When you lose only 2ppm between applications you know the algae is dead. That being said, pool owners buy bags of "shock" and are led to believe it's something special. It's not. It's simply regular stabilized or unstabilized chlorine. You may have "shocked" ten times but was the FC level kept above 12ppm long enough to kill the bacteria and algae in the pool? That's the question. I'm not implying that you did anything wrong, we just need to understand the definitions of the words so we're on the same page. I would first encourage you to shock with liquid chlorine. I don't have your pool size but use 1 gallon per 10k gallons. Do this at night, sweep well after adding the chlorine, spray the filter out, then retest in the morning after 12 hours. If the FC is lower than 9 - 10ppm you still have an algae/bacteria issue and need to bring the FC back up to 11 - 12ppm once again. Keep doing this until the FC holds. Only at this point should you use a clarifier.

Tony Spamony Thanks for the reply. The pool is roughly 16,000 gals. I shock the pool with HTH liquid chlorine. Typically add two gals at a time in the early evening. I'll follow your recommendations for a few days and get back to you on how it worked.

Tony Spamony 2 gallons for 16k gallon pool will work. Clean the filter, shock, then retest the FC in the morning and see how much, if any, it dropped.

Tony Spamony After adding the two gals of chlorine last night the FC was at 4 this morning. One other issue are the pool side walls are generally smooth now they are rough like sand paper. What causes this and can it be corrected?

Tony Spamony If you brought the FC up to 12ppm and 10 hours of filtering it's at 4ppm that means you lost alot of FC but still have an organic issue. You only want to lose 2ppm between shocking. You need to maintain the 12ppm until you only lose 2ppm or so of FC between shocks. At this point the algae/bacteria is dead. Concerning the roughness, that cannot be the result of using chlorine. If that's the case then thousands of fiberglass pool owners would have the same issue. From my experience it could be what's called Osmotic Blisters. Some fiberglass pools have a layer of vinyl ester resin. This can prevent water from getting into the polyester resin. When water does get into it can form osmotic blisters. The vinyl resin can wear away which can cause a rough feeling surface. You can Google that info. or call the pool manufacturer for more detailed answer. Hopefully that'll put you on the right track.

Robert is a magician with pools. I'm local with him and he cleared up my pool in 2 days. Get his stuff and you won't be sorry.

Thanks for the question but I still need to have your readings. There might be something else that's going on here and the numbers will tell us. I also need to have the kind of filter. If you're CYA is too high or low it will render the chlorine less effective. Clarifiers should only be used at the very end.

Total hardness : 500-1000 might be closer to 1000 Total chlorine bromme: 3/3 Free chlorine bromme: 1/2 pH: 7.2 TA: 120 ihave a sand filter. Also using both test strips and kits. i seem to getting good readings from both.

Forgotis Alright. The CH is way too high at 1000ppm. The normal range is 150 - 250ppm. This can cause build-up at the water level and the only ways to reduce the CH is a partial drain and refill or having pool water trucked in. High CH can also damage heaters and chlorine cells. I also need the CYA/stabilizer level. As this one and my other videos show it's important to know this number. The range for CYA is 30 - 50ppm. At 10ppm or lower you can shock with Dichlor a couple of times to get the CYA in range, then go to liquid chlorine. As was the case with this pool I did a partial drain and refill because the CYA was high, at 90 - 100ppm. Two completely different courses to clear up a green pool. One would be shocked while the other needs to be drained and refilled. Get back with the CYA and the kind of filter you have. The pH and TA and fine for now.

Your assumptions are correct. When the CYA is too high or low it renders the FC less effective. The ranges are 30 - 50ppm CYA and chlorine of 2 - 4ppm. This is what confuses so many pool owners. All of their other readings are in line but they may have CYA at 120ppm. In their minds all is well. The FC is 3ppm and they have stabilizer so why do they have cloudy and/or green water? This is a HUGE reason. Baking soda will not, in and of itself, clear up a pool. Baking soda raises the pH and TA. This can contribute to clearing up the water in getting the pH and TA in line, but simply adding bicarb in hopes that will clear it up is a misunderstanding. To reduce the CYA it takes a partial/full drain and refill. I've always done it by thirds. If the CYA is 90 - 100ppm I'd drain 2/3 of the water and refill. The new water has no CYA in it and I leave 30ppm in the pool. If the CYA was at 120ppm I'd still drain and refill 2/3 or more leaving in around 30ppm. It's not an exact science but it's efficient for me and I've done this hundreds of times over 15 years. It's sometimes best to drain just a bit more than needed. You can always add CYA but taking it out gets expensive. I wouldn't want to drain a pool, refill, and realize I still have 50 - 60ppm. Now I have to drain some of the new water out to get the CYA down to 30ppm. Big waste.

Clean Pool & Spa Great! You're right, I never really thought checking for CYA was that important since I only even put stabilized chlorine in the chlorinator; But instead of assuming I should at least have checked. Thanks for the advice on draining. I'm crossing my fingers it won't be necessary, but about 4 years ago we had to do it, so maybe it's time again.

Cecilia Montes de Oca It sounds like you know what you're doing. You just need slight adjustments here and there. As you probably know there are mainly 2 different kinds of chlorine - stabilized and unstabilized. The problem is they're marketed the same way. People using dichlor for weekly pool chlorination and shocking. Then they're CYA gets out of hand very quickly. Then they may use trichlor granular chlorine on top of that. For every 10ppm of chlorine added with Dichlor, you'll raise the CYA by 9ppm. For every 10ppm of chlorine added with Trichlor tabs you'll raise the CYA by 6ppm. Shock the pool 4 - 5 times with dichlor and you need to do a partial drain and refill.

White could mean no chlorine, or it could be bleached out with too much. Use another kind of strip, or take a sample to your pool store.

@@cleanpoolspa-ultimateswimm6373 so I ended up using 4 more tablets n the free chlorine came up to just a tiny little bit above perfect. Now I’m just looking at total chlorine to see if the color is even with free chlorine . I’m using these small tablets from ecoone. They are sanitizer/shock . If the total chlorine is just a bit high should I just add more tablets till they become even and than just wait for it to drop to safe levels !

@@cleanpoolspa-ultimateswimm6373 do I really need to wait for the chemicals to mix when adjusting ph, chlorine ETC? I can easily mix my pool around with a paddle. My pool is only 9.5x6.5 ft . I feel everything mixes when I move the water around . Plus my pump is 1000 gallons with a 740 flow pool is 900 gallons but I have about 820 gallons . Let me know thanks

That method works on all filters and pools. I prefer to use liquid chlorine compared to bleach. It's really just sodium hypo that they're referring to. Chlorine can be less expensive. Walmart carries their brand you can get online for $2.50 per gallon.

+Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide Thank you for such a fast response. I just checked my pool numbers and everything looks great except the free chlorine ppm. my pool is 15,000 gallons. Do you suggest 2 gallons of bleach to help bring it up?

Yes. You'll probably hit the 12 - 13ppm FC mark with that.

pH makes no difference. Clarifiers and flocs don't do anything to address why the pool is green, and why it won't clear up. All tests need to be done to determine the course of action we take. Ionizers have been used with some success but will never clear up the water. the water went milky white due to the fact it killed the algae.

@@cleanpoolspa-ultimateswimm6373 my pool was green cause it sat unused all winter. I shocked it and it turned milky. Checked the ph last night and it was 8.5ish. So I added some acid and brought it down to 7.5ish. Im gonna shock again today. I put the cartridge back in the filter and turned the pump back on. Gonna see if it clears up over the next few days with the filter working. Im just concerned the filter will get gunked up over night with the floc being in the system. Any suggestions? Thanks for the videos. They have helped me alot over the last 3 videos

@@jonathanritter7364 Floc should never be used with a cartridge filter. It MUST be vacuumed to waste using a multiport valve. Clarifiers are alright, but not flocs. My website has tons of resource available to you. I show, in detail, the exact process of clearing up a pool. It also depends on how old the cartridge is. Check out my resources page and let me know if you have any questions. www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-resources.html

@@cleanpoolspa-ultimateswimm6373 i took the catridge out. So the filter housing is just having water pass thru it. Its a brand new filter system. I put a ball valve on the drain for my filter so can use that as a "waste" option. I also put a ball valve on my return so I can close that off and pump water straight thru the empty housing and out into the street. I have watched several of your videos. But nothing im doing is getting the water to clear up running the filter for days no with visible results. Thats why I went to the floc

Hi Victoria. Without a complete set of chemical numbers, your filter kind and pool size it's very difficult to determine why the pool is green and how to proceed. And it's time prohibitive in a comment to go through everything you need to know to take care of and maintain a pool. Albeit very easy, there are several things to go over. Please be aware of anyone who tells you something to the effect of - Bring your pH and alkalinity in line and shock the pool, add 1 bottle of phosphate remover, 2 bottles of algaecide, 3 bottles of Green Out, and put 4 tabs in the skimmer. - Trust me, that is guaranteed to cost you hundreds of dollars and your pool will NEVER clear up. I have many resources available on my website that can be found here - www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-resources.html. I also do personal phone consultations. Please reach out to me if you find you'd like to go that route.

Hi thank you. I would like to ask you how do I open the filter with out water coming out its a outdoor pro. Not the skimmer one but one on pump. I will check out your tips. I would call but don't have way to pay for it right now..

@@invisiblebruisestruthbetol611 That's alright. Just let me know when you'd like to move forward. Have a great day.

You need to increase the CYA to 30ppm with liquid CYA. Then decrease the pH to 7.0. Maintain the FC level at 15ppm with liquid chlorine and be sure the filter perfectly working. Your FC is not holding due to the CYA being so low. That range is 30 - 50ppm.

Hi Cynthia. Sorry this is a bit late. I have several resources on my website that can help and can be found here: www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-resources.html. If you have questions about them please consider asking. Thanks and have a great day.

Yes I do. You can go to this page on my website: www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-consultation.html

if dirt and algae is on the bottom you can either vacuum to filter or waste, depending upon which type of filter you have.

I have a sand filter and yes theres a valve to waste but I dont have any vacuum for the tube to be connected to, any other solutions?

I only have an aquabot running to pickup leaves and some debris

Nvm I found a vacuum but I’ll let you know if any other problems after thanks

+toby sunglao Hi Toby. Metals in well water are common, as you know. Floccs won't help because that clumps smaller particles into larger particles to get vacuumed out but doesn't address what the problem is. What you need is a metal sequstrant. A sequestrant keeps the metals in solution and away from the pool surface. Sequester means to isolate, or hide away. You've heard that before. Check out any court case and they're always "sequestering the jury or witnesses". Jack's Magic has a good line. You want to look for the ingredient 1-Hydroxyethylidene-1, 1- diphosphonic Acid. Dose your pool per the bottle's directions. Sequestrants don't remove metals, they keep them in solution until they get filtered and backwashed. They do break down over time so you'll need to manually dose your pool when needed. Keep all of the other readings in line. I've also written about this in my eBooks that you can find on my website. Hope this helps and good luck.

is there any link where i can post my pool so you can examine it, lastly, can soda ash clears up my pool? my ph level is 7.6.

+toby sunglao Hi again. What you can do is to go to my site and ask your question. Click on the Contact Me link in the navbar. Top left. Be sure to include your email address. You'll receive an automated thank you email. Reply to that and include any pics. I'm hesitant posting my personal email on youtube. Soda ash will not clear up the water. It's used to raise the pH. Your pH is already at 7.6 which is in the correct range. You don't want to increase it. www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/C2-Home-Page.html - Swimming Pool Care Questions

i already send an email to the link provided. My last question here is, after shocking the pool after backwash and rinse many times, the water coming out to the returns is not Clear in color when i got a sample and put it in a bottle, its not brown though but Blurred in color same as the color of the pool. from what i know, the filter should make the water Clear coming out to the returns. maybe this is the reason even hoe long i filtered the pool, it doesnt clear out?

+toby sunglao You need to be sure the chemicals are balanced and the filter is working. Without knowing a kind of filter you have the answer can only be generalized. If you have a DE filter, the grids may have holes in them so they must be replaced. Cartridge filters need to be replaced after 2000 filter hours. Then there's a sand filter. Each kind of filtration system has its own set of parameters. Again, for metals in the water, use a sequestrant from Jack's Magic with the ingredient already mentioned. I also have eBooks available on my site that go into tremendous detail about chemicals, chemistry, all three types of filtration systems, and much troubleshooting.

j king Thanks for the readings. First I'd ask how many filter hours are on the cartridge? Not seasons or years, but actual filter hours. If it's 2000 hours to more, or even close to it, you need to get another one. Cartridges can only go about 2000 hours then they're pretty useless. You can't filter dirty water with a bad filter. Next is your CYA. The range is 30 - 50ppm. Yours is at 9ppm. Get some granular or liquid CYA. Use 12 oz. of granular or 35oz. of liquid to increase the CYA 10ppm per 10k gallons, filter for 10 hours, retest then make another adjustment. Stop when you hit the 30ppm mark. Follow directions on bottle. Next is to get the pH down to 7.0 - 7.2. Use 12 oz. of acid to reduce the pH 0.2 per 10k gallons, sweep well, filter, retest and make another adjustment if needed. You can do this right after to add the CYA. It seems like you have high metals in the water. Get a good metal sequestrant with HEDP as the ingredient. Jack's line of seq. is very good and recommended Once the CYA is at 30 and pH is 7.0 - 7.2 it'll be time to shock the pool. Shock is something you do, NOT something to buy. The process is to get the FC up to 12ppm until all of the bacteria and algae is dead. Use 1 gallon of chlorine per 10k gallons. Filter for 10 hours, retest, then shock again to maintain 12ppm. Once the FC holds at 10 - 12ppm between shocks you know everything in the pool is dead. Spray the filter out every 10 hours. Keep it CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN. Sweep the walls and floor once per day. ONLY at this point would you consider using a clarifier or floc. to help the filter. Good luck

Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide not sure how many hours are on the filter no way of knowing. i will keep working on it all this week and let you know how it goes. thanks so much for the help. :)

j king The reason I ask about the filter is that you cannot filter cloudy/dirty water with a dirty filter. Here in FL we never close the pools so the filter runs year round. 12 hours in the Summer and 4 - 6 in the Winter. 2000 filter hours rack up very quickly. It equals out to only 5.5 filter hours per day for 365 days. Let's use this example: Your swimming season is 5 months long. I have no idea where you live but I'll assume you close the pool for the Winter. 5 months is 180 days and your filtering 12 hours per day. 180 days X 12 hours per day = 2160 filter hours on the filter. It's useless by this time and needs to be replaced.

You can post a full set of chem numbers. Also your type of filter, fill water (city or well) and kind of pool. Remember that I have eBooks as well that go into great detail about the problems you're experiencing.

Wish I had his money. Thanks for the comment.

md farid Hi. First, I'd like to have your complete chemical readings, the actual numbers: Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), pH, Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper) and names of any algaecides you may have used along with clarifiers, phosphate removers, and/or flocs. It makes troubleshooting much easier and the process of clearing up your pool will go much faster.I also need the kind of filter you have and if it's working properly. If it's not working it must be fixed in order to clear up the pool. Don't use clarifiers or floccs yet. They do nothing to tell you what the problem is.

Because the CYA is so high you're going to need to do a 2/3 drain and refill and start over. That's the most effective way to reduce the CYA. Also, if you have well water, you're going to need a metal sequestrant. Jack's Magic has a good line. it sounds like he over-dosed on sodium carbonate which is used to increase the pH.

+Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide Dang ok thanks a lot Pool Genie

Yeah, never like to be the bearer of bad news. Everything else is pretty easy. Chlorine is low, add some. pH is high, add some acid. But the CYA is the rusted bolt with a stripped head.

+Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide At least you helped me and thats what matters thanks again!

Gabriel Escobar It depends on the kind of filter you have. Without knowing that it makes troubleshooting more difficult because each system presents its own set of challenges. It also may not be dirt but algae. This can look like dirt. You sweep it then it seems to appear again. Bad filtration + bad pool chemistry can cause an algae issue. Post a full set of chemical numbers and your filter and we can go from there.

Gabriel Escobar OUNDS LIKE YOU NEED A NEW FILTER WHICH SHOULD LAST FOR 2 YEARS

Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide dd

Aisha wasti it is but not always needed depending on what other chemicals you use

Most of the time phosphates are a non-issue and a phosphate remover is just another chemical that's not needed. I don't use phosphate removers and all the pools I've recorded that are on my KZfaq channel are perfect. The Laws of Pool Chemistry dictate, in the vast majority of cases, it's not needed.

Hello. The best I can tell in a simple comment is to properly shock the pool and maintain a high effective FC level until the algae is dead. There could be dozens of reasons why a pool goes cloudy and without much more information it's just a guessing game. You also need to make sure the filter is perfectly working. Adding some clarifier and phosphate remover is simply a bandage and tells us nothing about why the pool is cloudy. When we know the why, how to clear it up is easy.

It's possible, but it might not be the sole contributing factor. Reducing it would be a good place to start. Thanks for the question.

@@cleanpoolspa-ultimateswimm6373 okay would alkalinity being near 0 be a cause? I added baking soda yesterday to raise it

@@FuwaFuwaSama Probably not. Cloudy water has many variables. There's normally not one factor associated with a cloudy pool.

Ibrahim Alaydie Thanks for the question. The reading that's missing is the CYA/stabilizer. I need that along with the kind of filter you have and the name of the products that the pool store is recommending. I need to look at the ingredients in the products to tell you what they are and do.

Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide Haywar C3000 Cartridge filter ( replacement cartridge cx570xre). CYA reading current: 80 ( ideal: 30-200) This pool is 20000 gallons The pool store list: 1) 2 bags of1LB Smart Shock 2) 1 -12LB container of Balance Pak 100 3) 2 -4LB container of Balance Pak 100 4) 1 - 3LB bottle of Lo 'N Slo 5) 1 - qt. bottle of Back Up 6) 5 - 1 LB bags of Burn Out 73 7) 2 - 5 LB bottles of Balance Pak 300 8) 1 - 1qt bottle of Polysjeem Blue I was told by a friend of mine that I only need Chlorine and Acid in a good percentage, and I feel that the list I got from the Pool store is big ( they already tested and made me buy other stuff that didnot work before). Please advice Thanks

Ibrahim Alaydie Hi again. I accidentally posted my comment under my name instead of the channel name. Just wanted you to know so there's no confusion.

Robert Steelman thank you so much very helpful , i will try your method. but how do i get the TA at 80-120???

Ibrahim Alaydie You're already there in the right TA range of 80 - 120ppm. Sorry. I misread the "ideal" at 125 - 150ppm. After you do the partial drain and refill to get the CYA down to 30ppm you'll need to post a new set of numbers, specifically for the pH and TA. With all of that new fill water we need to know where it is. I would guess the pH would be about 7.4 and the FC would be near 0. If the TA is lower that 70ppm you can use baking soda to raise it. If it's a bit high use muriatic acid. That's down the road. The main thing is to get the CYA to 30 - 40ppm first and then go from there. Remember that you're going to need to do a little more than 1/2 refill. If you're at 80ppm CYA then obviously if you drain the 1/2 the water you'll 1/2 the CYA. And be sure the cartridge is in good condition. No more than 1500 filter hours. If it's any more than that get a new one.

+Dr Dank Hi. I need the rest of your chemical readings, the actual numbers: Chlorine, CYA (cyanuric acid/stabilizer), Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, and Metals (iron and copper. It makes troubleshooting much easier and the process of clearing up your pool will go much faster. Cloudy water is a symptom of the problem, not the problem itself. I also need the kind of filter you have and if it's working properly. If it's not working it must be fixed in order to clear up the pool. I'd also encourage you to watch my videos on clarifiers and phosphate removers.

All my numbers are actually right in line with where they should be unfortunately. I just added that stupid Orenda Phosphate remover after cleaning my filters and i probably should not have. =/ Ive added some clarifier a couple days ago and its slowly getting better but it sucks because I had people coming over for a party today.

I actually take that back. MY cholrine level was high at 8 and my CYA was high at around 60. Im about to drain the pool for the winter but limping along for another 30 days.

+Dr Dank It sounds like you're answering your questions while writing them. You're 2/3 there. I'd suggest watching my vids on clarifiers and phosphate removers. The correct CYA level is 30 - 50ppm. While yours is not too high, it's getting there. A partial drain and refill will lower it. Keep the FC at 5 - 6ppm during this time. No more tabs or stabilized chlorine. Just use liquid for the remainder of the season.

Clean Pool & Spa - Ultimate Swimming Pool Care Guide You know what....i messed up! When I cleaned the cartriges I did not put the top manifold on corectly. I had it upside down. =(

Hi Jason. You can go to my site and click on the Contact Me button found on top of the navbar. I also have eBooks and personal consults available. As you can see from this video it's pretty simple to clear up a pool when you know what's going on and how to do it.

Thank you

I have several resources on my site that can be found here: www.clean-pool-and-spa.com/swimming-pool-resources.html. It walks you through the process of clearing up and maintaining your pool. Thanks for watching and have a great day.