Isn't 150w little overkill for a BT radio?

Yes it would as they still have the same hardware and output

Black is pretty much always negative.

The 360 power supply does not have all the voltages that a computer needs. There would be no easy way to get it working.

motsu35 there is a way. You just Need a 12v to 5v and a 12v to 3.3v Supply.

The drill is pulling too much current most likely. If you turn the power supply on without starting the drill, does it also trip to red? if so, you wired something wrong and theres a short. If not, then yeah... the drill just pulls too much power. You could try slowly starting the drill instead of going from nothing to full speed, but i assume while drilling metal it would still trip

You can run 2 in parallel. I would be cautious about putting them in series. Some switch mode power supplies really don't like it, and one can feed back though the other. Also, 12v is a lot safer to play with than 24.12v you won't get a shock from unless you have wet or punctured skin.

+motsu35 thanks for the reply

Robert Kotevski yep. They are the same voltage. So in the case that there are multiple 12v rails, connecting the wires could give more amperage.

motsu35 i tested the 3 big yellow wires and they read 12.20volts and the thin one read 11.98v is that still ok

Robert Kotevski yeah.

motsu35 thanks for your time sir much appreciated 👍 ☺

motsu35 Hey is there a way to make a power supply for the XBOX360 that uses less energy, for example a 90W instead of a 130W

Josh Smith so I'm all for hacking together stuff, but you shouldn't buy 5 power bricks to power a DC amp. (I'm assuming a car amp?). Why not buy an AC amp? It will most likely be cheaper than 5 bricks, and it will be a lot more efficient. For main speakers I would go with an emotiva a-150, or if you need it for a sub check out the behringer inuke line. They even make some with dsp built in so you can set your crossover and eq in the amp. If you are 100% wanting to use ac-> DC power bricks (maybe you just want the learning experience?) I would recommend going with atx (computer) power supplies. They will be much cheaper per watt. To get them to turn on you just jumper the green and black wires on the 20/24 pin connector. I used two 450w power supplies in a party cooler I made a while back. Only used them over an ac amp because I already had them and a car amp laying around and I wanted it to be as cheap as possible. If you do go that route, you will most likely need a car audio capacitor to smooth the load out on the power supplies, otherwise bassy parts of the song will most likely trip them (unless you went overkill with how many atx power supplies you have. Keep in mind finding more than 2 sockets on a wall in one area is hard). If you do a car capacitor, you will need a resistor to charge the capacitor.

thank u

Its not that you cant run them in series, its just that there are things you should do in order to stop damage to the power supplies. you need to have a diode between the two, in order to stop any potential current from feeding backwards. for instance, if power supply 1 is outputting 11.5v and power supply 2 is outputting 12v, then current from power supply 2 could potentially flow backwards, though the +11.5v lead from power supply 1. another thing to consider (now assuming both are actually 12v for numbers sake, but it would still happen if there was a mismatch like above) also, if the reference voltage (black wire, 0v) is tied to earth ground, then you now would have 12v flowing though the wall and raising the potential on your grounding pins. this is because the reference voltage on power supply 1 is 0v, and its outputting 12v (difference of 12v). on power supply 2, you now have 12v going into the reference voltage (black) wire. the output is still going to be 12 volts... in reference to the black wire. however, since that reference is 12v, we end up with 24 volt on the output (in respect to the black wire on power supply 1). as i said though, if the earth ground and 0v reference are tied together, then now power supply 2 has 12v going into the reference, which is shorted to earth... which now means 12v can flow though the ground pin and potentially into other electronics! in order to do this, and not have that happen, you would need to put kapton tape, or some other thin isolating tape over the ground pins on both power supplies. i DO NOT recommend doing this. if theres a wire or trace touching the casing, now theres a potential for a nasty mains voltage shock by just picking up the power supply. so yes, it will run in series. but, you should be cautious about it. if you measure from the black wire on power supply 1, to the metal shield on power supply 2 (or the ground pin , while not plugged into the wall), see if you get a voltage. the fact you were down 1v on the theoretical 24v output suggests to me that you will have 12v on that ground pin... but i would be curious to see.

Your first paragraph is completely wrong. That's not the way that series connections work. Your whole second section could be more easily said as "If the power supplies are isolated, it's safe".

Why im here only 2 years later

I think that wire can be capped off since it is only there to draw power to the other groups of wires. I think you would lose power to the other groups of wires if you ran it to anything. That’s just my theory. I guess you could try using it to run some LED’s , and use a multi meter to see how much power you loose.

Same

+Chaotixs Gaming It really depends on the power supply you have, since different models shipped with different supplies. if you look at the sticker on the addapter, it should say how many amps it supplies at each voltage. if you multiply the voltage by the amperage, you will get the total wattage the brick can theoretically supply.

its been like 5 years since i made the video... im fairly sure its in the video. black is your ground, yellow is your 12v, red is your 5v. most likely you just need to short the 5v wire to one of the others (blue or grey).

motsu35 thnx for replying but I've tried that and if I short the red to the blue or grey the light on the power brick goes from orange to red any idea?

no idea, I haven't ever messed with the slims. i would try googling around to see if anyone else has any experience with them. if not, i would try to just put a resistor between the 5v and the power on wire, and see if that makes a difference

motsu35 alright what type of resistor? and man I've looked it's like no one has done it its weird lol

VAMPIRE WERE WOLF MLG BOSS Did that work for you??

+William Pittenger The 12V rail is flickering on and off? or the status led? How fast is this pulsing? i would also try putting a resistor across the power on wire. I dont have one of the newer ones, so i cant check myself. sorry

motsu35 Naw. I figured it out. I had to break the cube open, and found that the germanian diode and a resistor were burned up. I'm sure I can fix it, but it's going to be a pain in the butt to remove the things in the way to unsolder and resolder. I found the plans to make a new power supply. It's probably faster just make that one, instead.

well, a more usable one ;) I made this video well back in high school, and that lasted me til i got to college where i made another with a pc power supply... that one is still kicking many years later. maybe some day ill finally get a real benchtop power supply.... maybe

I have one

Ctc Gutta Black TV After trying this? Or just after normal operation? If it's the first, you shorted something. Find the short and power cycle the power supply waiting 30 seconds after powering it down before plugging it back in. If the latter, something internally on the psu is causing it to throw an error. Most likely a bad component or short. Toss it unless you know how to debug a faulty circuit with a multimeter

motsu35 it comes on when the remote wire touch power wire

odd, is this the xbox 1 or xbox 360 psu?

Its a X box 360 the slim one it has 2 yellow 2 black 1 grey red an blue wire motsu35

it works now had to separate each wire