My 35 years of hanging door gives this a thumbs up. There are nuances not covered but straight forward and correct. Nice demo young man. Incorporating elevation control lines for whole room or whole house door installation projects is a nice tool when trim head alignments matter.

With Ryan's kzfaq.infoUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!

great attention to detail on a "small" job - makes a big difference. door swings true, and solid latch when closed with no effort.

Are you checking the doors blood pressure

My dad showed me how to hang a door in the late 60's. Cut and build the jamb, mortise the Butts, drill for the knobs and latches, mortise the keepers, plane the door edges for the reveal then set the door. Still have the mortising tools, drill guides and braces and bits. I LOVE pre-hung doors. I liked the "pump shim", Kyle. reminds me of the vehicle door expander locksmiths use to get into a locked car doors. Nice job. I DO have "level envy" by the way. ;-)

I've built, hung and swung at least 20 thousand custom doors in my life the old school way before per-hung doors were common place. I used to make custom doors with radius parts out of solid wood, build my own jambs, make my own mouldings and hang and swing the doors as well as install the hardware. Most of the work I did was on high end custom homes but I have done a fair bit of commercial work. The tallest door I've done was a pair of 16 foot tall doors for an entrance of a steak house restaurant. I did that by myself but each door was supper heavy and I wish I had someone to help me with that one. The more doors you do the better you get. It's an art form once you get the hang of it. If you want custom doors than I would suggest to build them yourself but you can also purchase book doors from door stores. You would need hinge jigs for your router, a hole boring jig for your hardware and a door beveling tool to bevel the hinge and strike side so that you don't get hinge bind and your strike side doesn't have a wide reveal and closes nicely. Also get a drill bit that is in a sleeve that centers the hole before you screw in your hinges. This insures that your screws are flat and centered. Another tip is use a sliver of wood to move your screw to center if the hole is off centered. Always install your jamb on top of your tile or hardwood flooring and not the other way around. You want to put your shims behind each hinge, on the top sides of each jamb where the joint of the wood is, on the bottom of the jamb and behind the strike plate. All other shims are for adjusting the wood if it's bowed or twisted but isn't necessary. When you install the casing, that's what locks the jamb in latterly and it won't shift after that is done as long as you nail the casing to both the jamb and to the trimmer and king stud.

Retired carpenter loved that air bag .... slow and methodical makes it come out perfect🤠👍🔨

So tidy, that close at the end is satisfying.

When installing locks, I like to sit on a stool. That way I can hold the door from moving with my feet either side of the door.

Fellow contractor here. Loved seeing the simple tips here. Like it great job brother!

When installing the latch, instead of putting the post in the door when tracing the curves, flip it around, that way the face of the latch is flush and you can get a more accurate trace.

Nothing like a great chisel montage, so satisfying when it's like butter

You should put the wedge under the door edge to stop it moving!! Also I screw the latch in the correct place, then knife around it, stops it moving everywhere

Nice man. That’s a pretty efficient method. The laser level and air shim... that combo speeds up the process a ton! Good tutorial!

You did it fine, more then one way to hang a door. Be proud!

Did A lot of doors back in the day trimming. For latch I built a jig for my rotozip. Worked like a charm.

One thing that has helped me alot: I level across the opening at maybe four or five feet. Then I put the prehung in the opening. Now I can measure down from the top of the jamb to make sure both sides are the same. Then I start plumbing the sides.

You should be proud. Doing excellent, cutting edge work in the greater Chicago-land area. People don’t think about Chicago’s importance in our industrial revolution but, you kind of showcase our regional gain from this huge influx of money and material. Do it right and everyone wins.

For the door know: Pop that plate off the latch and use that optional collar insert that came with the door knob . Chiselling that out takes at least five maybe 10 minuets. It never turns out perfect and you're bound to screw it up.

A gallon size paint stick is the perfect reveal shim since they are typically 1/8" thick.

I always pop out the hinge pins and remove the door slab to plumb the hinge side with a magnetic jamb level. I make sure the head is level our slightly high on the hinge side. Pop the slab back in and shim the reveal perfect. Also I always shim directly behind the hinges and strike plate to ensure that possible flex in the jamb doesn't affect the door down the road. Popping the door slab of the jamb on step one is especially helpful when hanging solid core doors and allows to cut the slab down right then and there. (I do mostly remodels hence the need to cut doors to height) I also leave a slightly larger then 1/8" reveal to compensate for expansion and contraction. I live in an area that has hot humid summers and cold dry winters and hollow slabs move a lot with changing of the seasons.

After this video I really need to get a laser level. I helped a friend do 8 door and no laser level. It must make a difference. Great video. Keep them coming.

Love the laser and air bag combination. Brilliant!! I will definitely use this in the future.

Should be the #1 trending door installation video of all time! Both the air wedge trick 7 the laser use are worth their weight in gold. Kyle has style and with a minimum of talk, which kept my attention and enhanced my retention with less time spent on review. Thanks, outstanding tutorial. When's your next class, and how much do you charge per session? Rick

Thanks for the detailed and closeup shots where needed, you made a simple project like this to actually look SIMPLE!

Doing this in my basement in the morning! Thanks for the refresher!

I don't have a line laser but I just my Stabila Jamber set that has magnets at the hinge locations. Before that, I place shims on the hinge side that are plumb. Set the jamb in place and run a long screw through one of the hinge screw. locations. The rest is pretty similar. For drilling the screws for the strike I use.a Vixbit.

Nice! Installed a few, getting ready to do one on a VERY similar garage room. The thing I picked up from you was to put a shim between the door and the frame to make sure you keep the door gap right. The only different thing I do is double shim under hinges. Good video!

My buddys got what's basically a hole punch, but in the shape of the door latch plate. I don't think they make them anymore, but man is it handy. No tracing the latch out with a knife or pencil. Center it in the hole. One whack with the hammer and it's a perfect depth and shape cutout to chisel.

Quick tip for self preservation.. don't have your hand below your razor sharp chisel! Hold above when pushing down... those things sometimes jump out and that may leave a mark!! Great vid again!!

I almost skipped this video, thinking... jusy another door install video... But, glad I watched it. I don't know how I've watched so many, done a few, and yet, saw something new. Thanks for the video!

I always install shims directly behind the long hinge screws.

I've put in a few doors and windows in projects already, but watching this video already showed me so many things to make the job easier and more precise. And I always have trouble insetting the edge of the lockset into the door... I guess the "sharper chisel" makes all the difference in the world.

The most important step in hanging a door is framing the opening. I like to go through the lumber and set aside the stratist 2x4 studs. I use 2 king studs and one jack stud on each side of the framed opening. The king studs are set flat and the jack is screwed into both king studs. Much like a header. A couple of 1/2" plywood spacers help to control twist. If you use screws to attach the king studs to the top plate you can fine tune the assembly for plumb. Although I have never used it engineered lumber would be ideal for this application.

I've been fighting with my door for a few hours. The hinge side 2x4 is twisted, so I have to shim it all funky to get it to close correctly. You make it look very easy! Well done.

Nice .i have wanted one of those air bags just didn't know what I would use it for. I have all kinds of ideas now . In the past I installed doors for Home Depot in Myrtle Beach SC. I would install over a thousand doors a year.working by myself I can see how that air shim bag thing would have made things a lot easer. Love this kind of content. Thanks

Great video, the first I've seen where you show chiseling on the exterior door handle part (I am sure there's a more official name for that). Thank you for taking time to record and post this!

Thanks for making this. I helped a buddy of mine hang a door this weekend and this video was our guide. Keep it up man!

How great to watch a craftsman, who takes pride in using the right tools that are available today to do an extraordinary professional job. Thank you!

I like the idea of using the shin to ensure a constant reveal. Good stuff.

The laser makes it way easier, pretty cool tool.

The scrap pieces on the wall, prior to putting the door in was a great tip! For years, I fought with lining the frame up with the wall. Great tip. Thanks!

Perfect technique, I love how you did it and most important explained how to go about the little things that make a big difference in craftsmanship and productivity, things that take years to learn n perfect, and are frustrating when you just don’t know. Nice vid. Keep em coming like that. Thanks broski!

Helped a lot. We get something out of all your videos. Keep them coming. Love your attention to detail and how you approach your work. You guys are the best.

I have hung many doors in my 40 years of doing carpentry and my best tool was Tajima plumb bob always accurate and could be used on both wood and metal jambs.

Thanks very helpful. I needed a demo on installing with just a mailer (except the hinges). I have installed tons of doors in remodeling projects at home. But never with just the nailer. My local lumber yard told I should do it with nails only.

I love it! Quick and to the point. I like the "no fluff" approach. Thank you!

Like the video. Nice to see a craftsman on here that actually knows what he is doing and takes pride in his work. I hang my doors much the same way. One difference I do with my shins. Once I get the jambs where I want. I shoot 2 nails under the shims first. This does 2 things. First it helps hold the shins in place. Then I check my reveal to make sure it is perfect. The second thing it does is it gives you the ability to move the shins slightly if you need to make the reveal better. Shooting the first 2 nails under the shins allows you todo this. Once it is perfect, shoot2 more nails through the shins, one on each side of the stop. I also agree with shins right behind the long screws. I also use 5 sets of shims on the hinge side. Adds more support, especially for solid core doors. That’s my 2 cents.

Thought this was going to be simple and straightforward.... then the damn laser came out... then the pump thing and i lost it after that. Too damn funny

They make a special screw centering bit for hinges that pre drills the hole perfectly in the middle, if the screw is off it pulls the hinge or striker plate with it. Learned the hard way

Great Video! I've found that doors are the absolute worst to hang. This helps greatly! Ive got a whole house to do. Thanks!

Great install. When I do my handle latches mark out with the knife and chisel as you do too. But I find that using my trim router I can take out the bulk of the chisel work and get a perfect depth without all the guess work. Love the videos, keep up the good work :)

I work for a window/door replacement company but I saw a few good things here. I've never seen the pump bag used before so that's a nice trick. I can always just eye the reveal bc I've been doing it for years. Always shim your hinges so your lag screws can bite it and always start at bottom hinge first. No trim makes it easier(when it come to replacements) bc the walls are not usually level. Mortiseing your strike and catches can be a pain but worth taking your time to do it right. I also always pre-drill the screws for them. Just makes it easier. Definitely a solid video for ppl trying to do it themselves tho

My respect . I am construction worker for 20 years. I use same sistem all the time

I've been watching other videos and didn't come across one that tacked two corner pieces to help the dang door from falling through the other side. That helps greatly. Thank you.

This video taught me a lot! Here's a couple other tips. Use a multitool to cut off shims. When you are mortising for the door lock, turn it around so the face is against the door. Easier to scribe

Kyle, thanks for this video. I have the laser, that I use in my wood flooring business, but never thought about hanging a door with it. SMH 🤦‍♂️

Never commented but watch all your content. Awesome attention to detail and that is where quality resides. Keep it up!

Thanks for the video, we are getting ready to install some prehung doors in our remodel job. This will help me do the job right.

When I do mine I screw the latch to the door then cut around with a knife (prevents the latch face plate from moving) then remove and rebate it with a mini router. Job done takes maybe 2 minutes.

That's not how I do it------ It takes me 4 hrs and it still isn't straight and level...

ON outside or high traffic doors I like t support my hinges more, spacers and longer screws. Nice touch with the lazer.

Being a residential door specialist, I give this big thumbs up👍

Thanks so much for the video! You're a perfectionist, and I like watching you work! It's good to see what it looks like, when it's done right!

Hey Kyle. I use the RT composite deck screws. Griprite has their own version also. That way you can shim after plumbing!

Jamming a wedge under the door while your chiseling your latch out helps stop the door moving around.

I use a trigger clamp when hanging out prehung door. Squeeze along the sheetrock or wall surface and I get a perfectly level finish every time even if it's an old home. I also use small screws which I can tension and fit the door so I end up with a uniform 1/8th finish all the way around. Then follow it up with some foam insulation. It gives the door the impression that it is sold wood when you close it. Yes, I actually use this on both internal and external doors and it is amazing. It's pretty much the extent of my handyman skills in the home. 😬

Dude, ... Kyle you have more tools than anyone I know. a bladder for shimming doors. Now I need one.

Great video. I was always taught to put the shims behind the hinges so the screws have more to bit into, but your technique is great too.

Nicely done when I use to do this comericaly we were told to install the shims under the screws that you put into the hinges this way the hinge sat solid to the frame no chance for movement but I have been out of the trades for a while and things change all the time thanks for your show they have put lots of ideas into my head for future things to do

Use some shims under the door between the door and floor when working on the lockset so the door doesn’t wiggle around. Saves you from the utility knife. Never thought about cutting the curve around the plate of the lockset with the utility knife to get rounded corners. Super I install the screws to position the striker to do the layout marking, then remove them to chisel out for the striker. Great video

I like to screw the strike in place then use the knife to scribe around the strike. Helps with the curved eadges

I scribe then use a router bit for the striker inset in my wood vise before the door is hung, then clean the corners with a chisel. If you have many doors to do you set them up like an assembly line and do them all, saves time and the door doesn’t wiggle on you. I also put a shim set behind the hinges before I drive the long screws through to prevent it from bowing out. I like the stop blocks to prevent from the jamb sitting proud- using that one. Like the air shim also

Your attention to detail is phenomenal.

Damn. If my life depended on hanging a door plumb, I'd have been dead a long time ago. Excellent video.

Good video. The blade over a pencil is a good tip. The air bag is awesome. I use mine to level furniture. 125 year old house!!!

You, my friend, are a genius! This is such a smart way to install a door alone. I need to do a few and your video gives me confidence!

I never install casing prior to setting the door. To me that would make the install process more difficult. But I’ve never done it so I can’t say for sure. I’d like to see another video of you doing it that way without any editing or cuts in the video to show how long it takes real time.

Have you ever used ez-hang brackets before? They would replace the need for those blocks you used, along with shims and the pressure bag. They're sold at menards, I'm surprised they didn't come hooked to the door.

man that was great. love that little air pump to level out the door!

Gonna install pedestrian garage door tomorrow. Good helpful tips, thanks man 👍🏼.

Watch Gary Katz for the best door install procedure.

A blessed Christmas to Kyle and company !!!

Wow . You could show my house builder some good things. My doors all need to be re- hung.

I agree with putting the casing on the hinge side before hanging . Plumb and shoot that side first.Make sure the top is level shoot that. Then adjust the knob side reveal.Shoot nails through the jambs.

Having the edge prep done when ordering is definitely worth saving the multiple times of cutting towards yourself ^^; $2 a door extra at least through mastercraft. but glad you showed how it's done Definitely love the blocks in the corner to help get everything flush, and that win-bag is even more usefull than I thought. Totally passing this video around! Thank you for taking the time to share!

I use a pre made jigs made with scrap wood to mortise out the latch plates with a small router...

The laser level & air shim is a great idea. I'll have to try that on my next project.I think one point that should be made clear but isn't shown. After nailing the top of the frame on the latch side but before nailing the bottom of the frame in, you need to push the frame in or out (perpendicular to the plane of the door) as necessary to ensure that there is an even reveal the entire length of the door stop to the door when its closed. Walls aren't always perfectly plumb. Every finish carpenter knows this, but the DIY'rs on this site might not.

Couple of shims under the door while you mortise the lock to keep it from swaying on you 👍🏻

You might have just convinced me to buy a laser level! That is slick!

Cool vid man, pretty much the method i use, i've tried the casing on method and i'm, not 100% sure i like it ( i made a video of my first attempt) but i change things up occasionally so no doubt i'll try it again, one thing i do is use the laser or 1800mm spirit level and fix my hinge side shims before i slip the door in then i just screw it in and use the 'eye-o-meter' to pack the striker side. This vid convinced me i need to get one of those airbags too. Keep up the good work, cant wait to see the finished stone.

A good video with a couple of good pointers. When chiseling the mortise his hand should not be in a place where a slip with the tool will result in getting hurt. I know he is not applying much pressure but it doesn't take much to do a number on your hand.

Such patience in trimming for door latch

I need to buy a laser level like that. Like the video Kyle!

The video helped me a lot. First time installing a pre hung door.

A good way to strengthen the door is to shim behind the striker plate and replace the short screws with ones that reach all the way into the studs beside the door frame. Most the time when there is a forced entry, the door jam and striker plate tear out first.

Nice chisel work! I keep a couple of carving gouges in my box for doing the rounded edges. It's a lot easier than a knife. Or maybe I'm just a spaz

The only thing I do differently is use a small 1/4 in. chisel for those round corners...leave it a little long...then when installing striker it mashes down tight...no gaps....Great video btw.

Good man for letting in the door latch! Everyone takes the easy way out with those friction fits, but I can't stand those. You went old skool with chisels and stuff! I plunge mine with a 1/4", two flute flat bit on a router. Measure the thickness of the striker plate/latch with a dial caliper, then set the router bit to the same depth. Trace the face plate and route it out. Easy, and the 1/4 bit makes the right radius for the corners.

Who else thought he was gonna run the chisel through his hand??