michael munson

michael munson for fairies totally unnecessary there's a thousand of these videos out I'm only about half of them these for Sherry at all of them get about the same result

Would love for you to explain exactly what it is you are trying to say so everyone reading your response..... knows exactly what you were TRYING to say. PS Having actually built several burners that were posted to KZfaq..... they are most definitely not all the same. I believe Mr. Munson was trying to help. - Your gibberish... did not Mr. clown. - @@ClownWhisper

Michael Munson I would like to know more on your waste oil burner build I have built a few very crude ones and would like to share some build ideas?

@@ClownWhisper WTF?

i have a gauge but i dont use it much. It taps in after the needle valve but before the street elbow so it can read the pressure before mixing in the 2 in tube.

can you detail for a novice please because it seems to me that the function of the platinum/palladium mesh is simply to destroy the polluting gases? your idea is interesting can you give more details please ?

@@proteo-x4u Platinum and palladium are catalysts, which means they facilitates the reaction of most (or maybe all, I'm not sure) flammable gases with oxygen. So, when you expose a catalyst to a mix of oxygen (air in this case) and a flammable gas (propane in this case), both react together, decomposing some of the flammable gas (propane decomposes to carbon dioxide and water) which heats up the catalyst. If the supply of the gas mix is constant, the catalyst will keep heating up until the gas mix burst into flames (when the flash point is reached) and will burn it before it can be decomposed. With propane, the reaction is weaker and slower than other more volatile gases like hydrogen and methanol. Therefore, the catalyst will need to be heated before it can react with the gas mix and sustain the reaction. So, it will start to work a few seconds after the torch is lit, but should then prevent it from going out, since as long as there is propane and air passing through it, it will remain hot enough to reignite the torch. In a car, it works same way. When the leftover hydrocarbons (unburnt fuel) and other polluting/toxic gases (like carbon monoxide) passes through the catalytic converter, they react with the the oxygen left in the exhaust gases (that's why cars have to run slightly lean, so that some oxygen is left to activate the catalysis) and get decomposed to carbon dioxide (which is less polluting/toxic), water and heat. That heat keeps the catalyst at it's peak efficiency so that it will decompose gases faster. However, unlike in the torch, there is not enough oxygen for the flammable gas to burn, even if the catalyst gets hot enough.

Kanthal is a cheaper and more available material

@@drock5404 Kanthal (FeCrAl) is not a catalyst, but it is often used as the base material of catalyst-coated meshes.

I have a 10 foot hose and that is plenty far

what psi do you run the propane???? I'm just piecing mine together soon. I will try to regulate the forced air. I bought a 0-30 psi regulator.

Just tank pressure don't need anything fancy a screw type valve to control amount of propane and a valve to control amount of forced air that can be supplied by a blower or air compressor. Depending on size of forge/ foundry you may need more volume of air than some small compressors produce.I used a air matters blower starting out work fine for aluminum but to get higher heat I recently started using the blower connect of my shop vac if mix is adjusted properly you can reach much higher temps

I have an old inducer motor from an old high efficent furnace. should do the trick... so using a standard bbq regulator will work with the needle valve? I ordered both from amazon yesterday 😅

That could work if you get sufficient volume of heat from needle valve.

Can you share details? Thanks!

dave lists them here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jN6ql9SUteC8mmw.html

Great! Again, thanks a lot for replying to my comments :) I just watched Dave's video. Do you use/need the 60 PSI regulator on your forced air design?

yeah i use it

Where do you go about finding these industrial high velocity burner nozzle designs and data

I'm not sure about propane specifically, but I do know that teflon can produce a fume when vaporized that can knock someone unconscious in seconds and kill them after that. Kinda interesting that we put it on nonstick pans huh?😋

May I get ur Facebook page so I can contact you?

It's called a Fernco mostly by plumbers, Fernco is the prime manufacture (Fernco also makes other products), it is a rubber bell coupling. Just like Kleenex, Crescent wrench.

As long as the pipe is open it cannot explode. Only thing you have to worry about is if you lose power and the fan shuts down then the propane will flow back into the blower but that is why you have a quick shut off valve in the propane line.

I run a needle valve and a 60 (i think) psi regulator open all the way. I don't know what pressure I run at though.

thank you. I have all my pieces now and I hope to test fire today. Super excited for my new hobby

+KID18T Actually in my personal experience it's the complete opposite. The forced air burners use more gas to compete with all the air that is being forced into the mix. While the can get hotter, I find them unnecessary. I've got a torch design that is venturie that will get up to forge welding temps in no time but I can keep it a reducing environment to prevent scale. all while running at 8psi. Just my experience though. I do know forces air burners are way easier to tune.

Is it igniting then going out? If so you will have to play with the fuel air mixture and or the size of the flare. This type of burner needs some back pressure so you can try putting it in a forge and try lighting it there. If you cant smell the propane coming out then your gas line is blocked or turned off somewhere.

I got it to light once by reducing the amount of air but it went out quickly. I'll try shortening the end nipple and see what happens. I can definitely smell and see the propane coming out but I have a question, I have the 0-60 psi regulator at full pressure, how is the propane supposed to flow? Is it meant to come out with pressure? right now the gas flows with not much pressure but constantly.

I would try to use a 1in to 1.5 in flare at the end of the nipple. the flare is where the stability in atmosphere comes from. sometimes they are finicky.

Yes I have the flare installed as well. I'll try shortening the nipple and see how it goes. I'll comment the results, maybe it helps someone else.

7 psi from propane. how about the needle valve? how do you find those adjustments? like half way or just eventually it will ignite while playing with it?

It's ok you can say bellend it stood out a mile what you was trying not to make it sound like. 😂

1/4 in

I use a bit less gas at the cost of portability. I have a venturi burner as well for when i want portability.

@@nickwoo2 Excess air will simply blow heat out of the furnace, rather than allowing time for the heat produced to be absorbed. Too little air and you will produce soot and massive amounts of carbon monoxide when the flame is starved of air to burn the gas completely and properly.

Probably welded the 2" coupling to the forge body to help hold the torch.

Once it's in the foundry it will stay lit. I agree that there should be an airflow gate to slow or increase the amount of airflow. But it will stay lit In The foundry.

Sounds like the flare at the end may need modifying or The speed of the fluids sounds a bit high so it is starting to combust outside of the flare. Try a different air flow and or a different flare.

@@nickwoo2 I'm gonna try using a longer pvc pipe to slow the air flow. Will it help if I prolong the burner itself?

Yes, you need to control the airflow into the burner. Too much air and the flame will blow out, as happens in the video, and the heat is blown out of the furnace before it can be absorbed efficiently. Too little combustion air and you make soot and massive amounts of carbon monoxide when the flame can't burn the gas properly and completely.

I don't have a pressure gauge but another fellow said to try a longer nipple like a 10 in or a different size flare to get a consistent flame in open atmosphere. mine works fine inside my forge with or without the flare. how much volume does your forge have.

Try reducing the air flow. You will get more reliable ignition and the heat produced will have time to be absorbed by the burner rather than being blown out of the furnace.

Aaron Pratt a tesla turbine would be a good way of vortexing the fuel before the burn process

ri henry it could but i would recomend a forge blower.

For years I use an old turbine car (an ac one is so good for it). Only take care to have a butterfly plate to reduce the air flow....

CJ M trick tricks music on you tubes

david hancock lol what?

the larger piece was welded to the forge and the smaller piece is the flare that needs to go through into the forge.

HWPcville

350 cubic inches for welding temps

Looks like just sched-40 steel that you can find at any plumbing / home improvement store.

@@CurmudgeonExtraordinaire sch 40 is just the thickness probably mild steel HE is used for sour gas.....3 year old comment😄 thanks for the reply at least.

yeah I think a stainless flare would be good for the heat and with out of forge operations

ken taylor to change the velocity and pressure of the gas to give a good burn outside of a forge.

thank you for your help.....ken

I know its late but check my alternative kzfaq.info/sun/PLdPF2vF3_PMQLMfNfoo44m0SUa7YsbKmI

charles hoover all you need to do is set the tank in a bucket of warm water if it remains solid.. adding more heat will help it expand

William Summers that is how I attach it to the forge. The coupling is welded to the forge

+Tom Wolfel www.blacksmithsdepot.com/products/forge-fan-fuel/blowers.html

+chris white i don't know for a fact but i think it would work with smaller fittings.

JUAN BERMUDEZ oye en los micro torch o mini sopletes como se llama la boquilla que Saka la flama azul

Jakub Macák depends of your air source but I have melted steel and wrought iron with it.

+Tom Wolfel 65

+chris white The hose is for the forced air. I have a dedicated blower but a shop vac might work.

+chris white You can use an el-cheapo hair drier. Just hook to bridge rectifier on back of the motor. Can run on anywhere from couple of volts up to about 40 volts DC. I use a variable DC supply. Gives great air flow control especially in the forge which in my case is coal fired.

like a sink strainer?

RJ Wilson Exactly, like this one: i.ytimg.com/vi/m3o5EO7VZXw/maxresdefault.jpg

blown burners can save gas and get hotter in some applications.

+Mad Tinker www.blacksmithsdepot.com/products/forge-fan-fuel/blowers.html

Excellent, thanks!

Yes, there should. Excess combustion air is why the burner keeps going out, and will cool off the flame and cause the heat produced to escape the furnace with much of it not being absorbed.

BEAKER UNREFINED it it strong enough to melt iron, this is for a forge inlet. they need to be smaller than weed burners.

not sure if it would or not. i know you don't get too close. it's unregulated though so it chews up the propane.

BEAKER UNREFINED mhh I have seen weed burners used but they are always a hassle to move around. this design also allows for an inline needle valve to control propane.

this is not the exact brand torch I have but it is nearly identical. www.ebay.com/itm/Red-Dragon-VT-3-30-C-500-000-BTU-Heavy-Duty-Propane-Vapor-Torch-Kit-/132129914402?hash=item1ec38e7e22:g:yfoAAOSwzgBYzJpq