I have two subaru's in two different countries and your videos are for me the reason youtube was invented, great home made educational videos. I learn so much and get my jobs right first time. Cheers.

Eric, I know you like to stay dirty but you should definitely do an engine bay cleaning video on the subaru. I know its not necessary to keep the bay clean anyways but some of of us are obsesive and like nice clean looking guts. Plus not everyone knows hiw to clean an engine bay properly without potentially damaging parts.

Had a customer a few years back with almost this exact same me vehicle. He decided to change his engine oil, shortly thereafter the vehicle quit running. He had it towed into us and I found that he had drained the front diff fluid and then added 5 qts of oil to an already full engine. Moral of the story, make sure you know which plug you are pulling or at least have enough automotive knowledge to be able to tell the difference between diff fluid and engine oil.

Not to be nosy... a funnel and a transparent hose will do the trick and you can jam it between the tire and the wheel well and thread the hose the best way to the fill... just cost a couple of pennies... I cut the funnel until the hose fits tight inside the end and press it in! Thanx for all the work you put into this... Guess we all appreciate it :)

''keep an eye on the hole because your looking for it to start to run out, when it does; you have achieved maximum fill'' Wise words

The GL5 designation is very important; if that is what the specs call for. Those fluids are designed to create a chemical coating on the gears to prevent them rubbing metal on metal. That coating is constantly being formed and rubbed off and reformed. That chemical process decreases as the fluid ages requiring a fluid change. GL5 fluids need to be changed on schedule. They are NOT like old fashion gear oils.

Hey Eric, just a tip for the Subaru since you're working in the vicinity of them, they tend to get cracked/split CV boots, so if you ever replace one, make sure it's an OEM reman or new one, otherwise you get a vibration in the driveline. Axles are a common replacement item on Subarus, so that would be a good one to shoot if it ever needed one.

For the rear differential, I have used an Outboard Motor gear oil Pump (similar to a soap bottle pump) that costs about 10.00 The pump threads into the top of the Quart bottle and the outlet hose can placed into the filling hole of the differential. It is a lot easier than squeezing the bottle

Cap tip at 10:10 seems so obvious it should be a given but it isnt, it is so useful. one of those things you cant forget. Thank you

Filling trick : Use a PVC (fuel) hose that fits snugly IN-side the bottle tip (or cut/trim the tip to fit), and stick the tube right to the bottom of the bottle. Leave the length of the tube outside the bottle as you need it for a general purpose filler usage. Now squeese the bottle from an upright position (on the floor) to fill in the fluid. Once the bottle is squeezed, pause a while then release the bottle to suck in air, and then start over. You may even screw in a bicycle valve in to the lid, to make yourself a handpump action.

Nice video, but, it is obvious you should do the rear differential first because you will never be able to get the last drop into the rear, but you just pour it into the front. Also, with the tube fitted to the bottle, there is no need to get the bottle above the filling hole. As long as the bottle is held upside down, it can be below the fill hole, way below.

I like my '95, cause with being stick and awd, the front diff is part of the transmission and you replace BOTH fluids at exact same time. :D

Might sound obvious, but Eric next time you do this take out the bottom drain plug first. Saves you the trouble of getting a load of oil down your arm. (This guy did haha) Great videos!

I don't know why they don't just call brake cleaner "just about everything cleaner". I use that shit on my safety glasses, on shelves, on glass, damn near everything.

In your FWD vehicles, the transaxles have an internal differential, the CV axles are splined into the axle gears of the differential just like the axle shafts in a rear axle on a RWD vehicle. The CV axles are needed because the front suspension moves independently of the transmissions mount location, and the front wheels turn as well. The turning and jounce and rebound of the suspension cause differences in angles and effective length of the CV axle.

Eric, I'm shocked. You know better. You always remove the fill plug FIRST before removing the drain plug. What would have happened if the fill plug broke off?

A good old pistol pump oiler I had laying around the garage worked quite well for this. It took a little time, and I had to refill the pump a few times, but it worked.

you can use a really fine polishing compound, keep it well lubricated and the results can be astonishing. Buy the high-end products for best results.

You're absolutely correct about some other makes. I was answering the guy's question specifically about the Legacy. Maybe I should have said that or mentioned Subaru or the 4eat transmission to avoid confusion.

BTW, I was having problems with my front differential seemingly binding in tight turns, dragging the inside tire....a couple of miles of driving on the clean fluid and the binding went away. Will drive for a few days then change it again to hopefully get any remaining gunk to drain out.

One of the issues in this area is mixing regular gear oil with synthetic, it seems to gum up really bad and sometimes crystallize like a hard cooked candy. Just be aware that gear oils don't mix between dino oil and the more expensive synthetic type. Keep in mind that synthetic gear lube has a longer service life and runs much cooler and is recommended by most OEM to maintain the warranty.

This subbie videos are great. That subaru has been a great opportunity for us to learn. Thanks Eric!

You can get a nice pump at most auto parts stores that is about $10. They look like a big hand soap pump...fits on both quart and gallon bottles. It makes jobs like that rear diff much easier. Its not too heavy duty, but they have (and honor) the lifetime warranty.

I give my cars a once a year under hood wash. Spray the whole area down with a de-greaser like simple green or even Bleachwhite, rinse with a low pressure hose and don't blast electrical connections. Start it up and drive it. I've never had a problem in nearly 30 years of doing this. Clean is easier to work on and easier to see leaks and pays off when you sell it.

Heard a rumor...He's doing THE HEADLIGHTS!! today. Woo! Probably been the #1 topic ever since he got the Subaru.

Your videos and website are articulate, organized--respectively well delivered and written. My one suggestion for this video would be to refer to such unknown torque specs as being a little past "snug" rather than "tight." This might further encourage people not to crank down too far on these plug bolts. You've been helping me work on my cars for years. Thank you, your work is much appreciated.

1.3 quart is the front diff capacity

Older (1990 - 2004) legacy/outback/ impreza front diff on automatic is usually 1.2 qts. The rear diff is ~0.8 qt. Spec oil typically 80w90 front, 75w90 rear. However, sometimes 80w90 is spec'd for both like on a 2003 Outback. Other times 75w90 is spec'd for both like on my 2011 Outback 3.6R Check owner's to confirm which weight to use.

That could be the case on an AWD car where the main power is sent to the front wheels, however, plenty of AWD and 4x4 vehicles have a transfer case (centre diff) with fluid that needs changing (and sometimes chains that stretch and break).

other than helping keep your engine cooler (barely) it also helps you locate a leak faster because there shouldn't be any new oil or sludge on the engine. unless you never work on your own car, then there is a reason to wash it.

excellent! I confirmed my rule of thumb for any fastener where I do not know the torque spec. LPT (lil past tight) :-)

I got one of the "hook thingy" pumps at harbor freight for about $20 I think. But...you have to check it for flakes of aluminum left over from the manufacturing process. I found the source in the ball valve. There was about an inch long aluminum turning stuck in it causing little flakes of aluminum to get shredded off into the fluid. Even with that, it was well worth the $20( it may have actually been $9 or $14 but I'm not sure) I spent on it.

The only suggestion I could make is that you should always remove the top fill plug on a diff before removing the lower drain plug. If for some reason fill plug won't come out or gets stripped, at least you won't have an empty differential and no way to fill it.

Differential, Front..........2.5 pints Differential, Rear..........1.7 pints Just go to the amsoil website and use the product selector and it gives you all the fluid specs and capacities

Eric should make a video on torque wrenches. Like when they are needed and when they are just not needed.

All cars i have owned have had dirty engine bay.. its not a sign of a lazy owner, its a great sign to show that the seller hasnt bling up the bay to take your eye away from any issuse it might have as were attracted to shiny clean things. But once i given them an once over i give it a good clean and coat of paint. 1/2" pulgs only if all cars were like that!

Good Video Eric ! Has your hesitation problem been solved ? Perhaps you can share in your next video ? Technically the drain and fill plugs in the rear diff are 13mm, and they do make 1/2" drive 13mm drain plug sockets. (Harbor Freight has them). But for all intents, and purposes a 1/2" drive ratchet, or breaker bar works fine.

The 'middle diff' in an automatic transmission is a viscous clutchpack thing in the rearmost part of the transmission and doesn't have its own separate fluid to change.

A little tip when your working on those back diffrensials and different gearbox'es with this kind of draining and filling! Get the filling hole open BEFORE you drain the thing! cuz sometime those thing sit pritty much! And you will be pissed if you drain it and cant get the filler hole open!

I've heard of people making little things out of some hose and an old washer fluid pump for filling these too.

You should find heavy duty jack stands with a very high load capacity. You can find 6-ton jack stands for something like $40-80 per pair and in varying heights to suit the vehicle. Some even come with different standoffs for adjusting the height

You can buy manual hand pumps for this at a parts store. Pretty cheap and super useful.

cool tutorial. I use the oil in a bag, squeeze n leave, don't get hung up on what fluid is better. Bit of advice there manufacturers. Right or wrong that's the way i do it!

Instead of draining oil all over the exhaust wrap that section of exhaust with a little bit of aluminum foil first. Makes clean up a bit easier afterwards.

you need 10.00 hand pump, it might be your best friend great video brother eric you are awesume man

Crushed beyond all recognition. Would that be CRUBAR?

eric they sell gear oil pumps thats about 10 bucks. they screw onto the botttle and have a attached hose neck

For anyone who wants to know the torque spec for the front diff is 30ft pounds, same for the oil drain plug

EVERY VIDEOS OF YOURS , SIMPLY GREAT..

At any local auto shop you can get a manual pump it looks like the one on hand soap dispenser it makes easier ti do the rear and I think it's .8 quarts

Eric, you should get an oil suction gun for these type of things, makes your life much easier and they don't cost a whole lot! Hell, I would send you one if i didn't live in the other side of the world!

As I understand it all of the 4eat automatic Subaru transmissions work that way. The manuals have a different clutchpack that is also attached to the rear of the trans but I've never owned one and don't know enough enough to comment on those.

if you are going to reues the crush washersit is good to flip them over. that way the side that is concave can be crushed against the flat machined surface, but thats only my 2 cents

Lol, when I changed the diff fluid on my Dakota, I needed to buy three quarts, and I only have ONE differential. Looks like something they'd put under a cement truck. That's something you only get with the R/T package, to handle the massive 15 extra horsepower over a regular Daktoa!

July 2012...and helpful to me today. Thank you.

Thanks....front differential plug is 21mm on my '97 Legacy L.... I have heard the terms front, center, and rear differential for these cars....are there really 3 differentials, or are "front" and "center" the same thing?

To me, the work done in cleaning it doesn't justify the time saved locating a leak. Re-sell value is a good point though.

Thanks Eric! Just wondering, when using brake cleaner under the car, do I have to worry about spraying any non-metallic parts like plastics or rubber?

I think I remember seeing you use compressed air to push gear oil into place a couple of years ago. You had a little cap with a tube going to the bottom of the fluid in a 1 gal container, using VERY low pressure. Did you have a messy accident with the air?

the exact same would suck back from over the level. have you ever used a straw? the oil in the pipe gets sucked back when releasing the bottle.

I know its not really a mechanic thing, but could you possibly give us some tips on how to clean the headlights on the car or make a video on it. Mine are a bit yellow :S

Hi Eric love your work,just got a 98 toyota hi lux surf and need to change the differential fluid and rear right wheel cylinder can you help with a video. Thanks

You don't really need to hold the bottle above the fill level when using a hose, I guess you may have to squeeze a little harder...

Curious, why don’t you take the differential cover off and clean the inside?

I would love to see a video of how to properly service your car.

I like to spin the diff to work the oil up in the gears and then top it.

Sure that would would work, anyway you could get that fluid in there is all that matters.

they sell pumps for like $5 at autozone that you twist on like a cap and you just pump it in

Hey Eric ... What about friction modifiers for anti slip doffs? Are there different types or are they universal for all anti slip doffs?

I like to use the pump system used for filling a boat outdrive it has a hose on it

Yes you might be right, it really depends where you grew up and what you learned first and with which system you feel better with, my comment was a little bit selfish therefore

Go to amsoil site it will give torque and capacities.

FWD cars that have a limited slip need this service done.

I drive a 1999 chevy cavalier with 165xxx Kms and its manual. I have a question when the car is cold and when i let the cluth go in frist gear the cluth seems that it slips. once the car is warm at its normal temperature than evrything is fine no slipping in any gear at all. Do you have any idea what could it be.

Alldata thinks the capacity is 1.2 to 1.4 quarts and the torque spec on the drain plug is 44 plus/minus 3 - N.m.

Would you think someone saying a quarter of a liter would be weird? We know if someone says a quarter of a quart that it's a 16th of a gallon, or 1 cup. Liquids in sizes cup, pint, quart, gallon all are very good measurements for day to day real life use.

gravity cannot overcome the vacume being formed in the bottle, you can hold that bottle upsidedown and it wouldent run out, but if you used a funnel it would be another story. when using the bottle there is no reason to have it above the diff.

Eric what are your recommendations on jack stands and lifting the car on all 4 wheels? I noticed that most if not all jack stands state not to use them in more than 1 pair per vehicle.

why would you need to have the bottle above the oil-level in the differential when using a hose? just turn it completley upsidedown and squese? the hight of the bottle dosent matter.

love the ending, it felt real. finally it wasnt so text book :|

youre right mate, it isnt rocket science but its more conveluded. i can appreciate that it comes easily to those who grew up with it but you cant say that changing the demoninator on socket sizes (1/2, 9/16, 19/32), for example, is easier to understand than counting upwards by ones (13, 14). its an archaic system derived from rubbish measurements ie power of a horse, candle or length of the king foot. finally only small or stubborn pockets are still using this system- whats the hold up?

Do FWD cars have this service too? IE Honda's?

gracias me sirvio muchisimo la informacion

Was up, i got a problem, i rounded out my differential fill plug. any tricks on getting it out. i think it has loctite in it

Is that true for all Subarus?

Eric, now we all want that car!! its getting all the services done by a mechanic we trust!

okay, I have never changed diff oil on my cars, ever and they all usually make it to 300k, one of em is a Subaru like the one in the video, question is did you start having problems with the hesitation, after you did this or before?? Because I sure as hell don't want to change that oil if it's going to fuck it up. I remember never changing the oil on the Toyota van, got it at 70k miles, still runs, and its at 280k miles, on same diff oil, and I highly doubt anyone messed with it before I bought it 15 years ago.

Thank you Eric !!

noob hint ... for my front diff fill plug is kindof hard to reach I used a plastic water plumming fitting, its the same thread, with a piece of clear hose, so no leak when you compress the bottle and you can see the liquid :o)

Hello Buddy , I have 1996 Lexus ES300 which is the same exact thing as 1996 V6 CamryThe exhaust pipe in the middle where the resonator is seem to have a factory type of outlet and it's covered with the wiled that piece, there seems to be exhaust leaking from that is that purposely there?? And why

I would also like to see that engine get washed. However its probably been dirty so long it might mess something up with a wash.

Engine wash video!!! ...and headlight de-yellowing haha!

Would this process work for my 2000 Subaru Impreza?

To me, the work done in cleaning it doesn't justify the time saved locating a leak.

Tony6 Any plans of doing Duty C solenoid replacement on 1996 Subaru Impreza. Would be interested to know whether you replace plate set at same time

i think he was talking about using gravity to fill the diff. you put a hose like that on an oily nipple like that and give it a squeeze, see if that hose doesn't just pop off and stinkin gear oil goes everywhere.

Every "new guy" thats works at a quick oil change joint, needs to watch this video and learn where the hell the transmission, and front diff are, and NOT to drain them. Just drain the oil.... that's it. l work at one, and have had several techs do this all because they didnt want to ask for help. just a pain to take the time to refill them..the newer ones are like a vacuum something or other..thats what i have heard.

Dear Eric: I purchased my first Subaru brand car since one year. I just discovered that I have to change the Diff. oil. what happens if I haven't changed the diff. oil till 125K Km on my Legacy 2008? and what happens if I change it now? will I have any issue like Diff. voice coming? thanks

hey eric i know you know acura good im haveing a problem with my 97 acura integra yust started doing it the problem is when i come to a stop or let off the gas i start hearing a clunk clunk clunk sound and it stops when i get back on the gas do you know what it might be i yust replaced the wheel brearings today and that wasent it.

what size socket did you use for the front diff plug?