How to replace the rear shocks on a BMW E90 3 Series. This particular car I am working with you today is a 2010 335d sedan. This tutorial will cover how to remove the trunk liners, replacing the lower shock mount, and installed upgraded upper polyurethane shock mounts. #turnermotorsport #bmwe90 #bmw3series
Shocks: bit.ly/3II13Qj
Shock mounts: bit.ly/3P9Q2t7
Bump stops: bit.ly/3yKTUd7
Polyurethane bushings: bit.ly/3aCjDg9
Website: 4diyers.com
Patreon: / 4diyers
Facebook: / 4diyers
Twitter: / 4diyers
Instagram: / 4diyers
Tumblr: / 4diyers
Pintrest: / 4diyers
Tools/Supplies Needed:
-E12 socket
-nylon trim tool
-jack with jack stand
-new shocks, shock bushings, and shock mounts
-17mm socket with johnson bar
-6mm socket
-16mm wrench
-3/8" drive ratchet
-phillips and standard screwdriver
Chapters:
00:00 Intro
00:42 Passenger Side
00:53 Disabling Trunk Light
01:06 Trunk Liner Removal
02:52 Top Shock Mount
03:04 Bottom Shock Mount
03:29 Shock Removal
03:47 New Shock Assembly
06:39 Installation of New Shock
07:57 Driver's Side Replacement
11:09 Wheel Installation
Procedure:
Safely elevate the vehicle and use a jack stand. Using a 17 mm, remove the lug studs. The trunk will be open for quite a long time so it’s a good idea to deactivate the trunk light. This can be done by flipping the latch into the closed position using a screwdriver. Make sure you do release this before closing the trunk after.
Using a standard screwdriver remove the two plastic caps on the top of the rear trunk trim. This will expose to Philip screws which need to be removed. There will be two clips which need to be removed on each side. Lift up the trunk liner. Pull up the gasket along the backside of the trim. Lift up the trim slightly from the backside and then push it forward to disconnected from the loops. Remove the trunk liner.
Remove the trunk liner on the passenger side, there will be four black plastic clips which need to be removed. One will be hidden behind the removable panel which exposes the battery. Flip out the panel, lift out and remove the last clip then. Push the seat forward and then pull out the liner. Remove the rubber cap covering the top of the strut mount.
Using a ratchet with a 6 mm socket, this will be used to hold the center shaft of the shock. The nut uses a 16 mm. Remove the nut, it will be attached to a plate along with a rubber bushing.
On the bottom of the shock you'll need to remove the two E12 bolts. The shock can be compressed by hand, then work out the rubber mount from the control arm by hand. A small pry tool may help in the assistance of the removal. You don’t need to tilt the top out and to the back, that’s the easiest method I found.
For assembling the new shocks with polyurethane bushing, the top bushing cap will need to be separated, we will be reusing the large metal washer and nut. Installing the bottom bushing, remove the locking nut from the bottom of the shock, install the new rubber bushing, and then install and tighten the nut. The bushings can be installed first in the car as well, it’s personal preference. There is a spot on the shock for wrench so the nut can be properly tightened. Both the spot on the shock and the nut use a 17mm. The torque specifications for that nut is 28 ft-lb or 38 Nm.
The metal cap from the old bumps stop will need to be reused. Insert these components onto the shock shaft.
Install the first part of the polyurethane bushing. Using the supply lubricant, apply to the faces where it will be touching any objects along with the center where the shaft is slid through. Install the rubber cover.
Apply more lubricant to the bushing and install that as well.
Back at the car, compress the shock and insert the bottom portion with the bushing into the control arm. I made sure the top portion is inserted into the hole. Then install the two bolts. The torque specifications for these bolts is 44.2 ft-lb or 60 Nm. I did raise the control arm with a jack slightly to help push the shock into place. This bushing did have lubricant apply to the mounting faces and center hole. Depending on the shock used, the torque specifications for the nut at the top if it’s an M10, it’ll be 19.9 ft lbs or 27 Nm. If it’s n M14, it’ll be 27.2 ft lbs or 37 Nm.
All other parts are installed in reverse of removal. The torque specifications for the rear wheels is 88.5 ft lbs or 120nm.
Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!
© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.