You bet

Have you tried cleaning the cell? Sometimes an old/dirty cell will show incorrect salt readings because of build-up. Also, AquaRites do not operate well in water temps under 50 degrees. If your water is below that threshold, it may be best to turn off the chlorinator until the temp rises. It is safe to do this in cold temps because algae won't grow.

From experience you will see those lights when temperatures are low like you are saying

Daniel, check out this Aqua Trol Diagnosis manual. It may help you troubleshoot your problems. splashottawa.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/AquaTrol-Diagnostics.pdf

Hello Sharon - The first thing we would recommend checking are the jumper locations. You'd want to make sure those jumpers are in the correct location based on the input voltage. We have two videos on this subject. One is for 115v and the other is 230v. 115v kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q9WHfNKLqdHTlZc.html 230v kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hsiJl8-Kzd3OgJs.html

Possibly, raise your salt level to the appropriate levels, then see if the light shuts off. There may be a separate light that says "Low Salt" that is illuminated as well. You may also try cleaning your cell.

What was the issue? What did you replace?

Vinegar is an acid, but it is very slow to clean the calcium buildup in the cell. Adding baking soda neutralizes the vinegar, and absolutely no descaling will happen. Muriatic (hydrochloric) acid diluted with water really is the best way to clean the cell.

My salt level is at 0 also. But water sample at pool store says 3400. Can't get it off 0 either. Did you figure it out?

I have the same issue. We’re you able to figure out? Would appreciate a reply

Yes and no. The general process of how these two models work is the same, but the AquaTrol is for above ground pools, and the AquaRite is for Inground pools. The two models use different cell types and are installed differently.

Have you checked the diagnostics menu, to ensure the right cell size has been selected? See Step 9 on our guide: How to Read and Adjust the Hayward Aqua Rite SCG Operational Values - www.inyopools.com/HowToPage/how-to-read-and-adjust-the-hayward-aqua-rite-scg-operational-values.aspx

Hello Lee - I contacted our Hayward rep. This was his response. "I'm not sure what's going on here relative to the leds for power and generating. If they are shutting off then there is something else going on possibly insufficient flow through the cell, hi amp draw of the cell through the board. The voltage, if it really is AC and roughly double what is normal (10 to 14 VAC) then I'd be concerned that there is a problem with the AC source which would be the transformer. Either the transformer is being feed 120 (115-125) VAC or 240 (220-240) VAC. If the VAC jumpers are set correctly then it should be delivering 20 to 24 VAC out on the yellows. This is all prior to the orange wires. A functional transformer when isolated from all connections and with power removed should read 2.0 to 2.9 Ohms on the blue and white wires then the same on the violet and gray wires. If out of that range then replace the transformer. Yet if the transformer Ohms out within range then I'd be suspicious of the power-in jumpers on the power-in terminal or the incoming power from the electrical circuit."

Are your salinity levels reading at 2100 PPM? If so, your salt is way too law, it should be between 2700 to 3400 PPM Is your salt was in the right range, my next question would be, how old is the cell? Those two lights being on, and the low chlorine sounds like a cell that needs a cleaning or worse, a replacement. - MGS

Vlad, since the unit is brand new I would contact Hayward and talk to them about your situation. They would be the best at troubleshooting this type of problem. Here is their contact info:www.hayward-pool.com/shop/en/pools/contact-us-main Good Luck!

Check out the Aquarite Troubleshooting Manual. It has a detailed flow chart for troubleshooting the display. images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/aquarite-tsg-aqr159d.pdf

Did you figure this out?

I’m having same problem

How old is the system? Are there any error lights or messages that flash? Have you tested the wire leads to confirm the correct voltage? Current limiters are a common issue that goes bad on that board. But usually, that prevents the unit from starting altogether. - MGS

Mine is doing the same thing. Were you able to resolve this issue and if so what was the cause?

Chris Clark were you able to resolve ?

If your amps are reading a 0, then you should be replacing the main PCB. The main PCB for the AquaRite is the GLX-PCB-RITE. Link to the part: www.inyopools.com/Products/02146554044344.htm

@@Inyopools But...if I turn it off and back to super chlorinate it runs all day just fine, with a proper amp draw.

That’s a good question, I’m in the same situation. How to resolve to much chlorine? Keep reducing chlorinator run time?

Mine does this too

Forgot to mention, the fuse is good.

Hi Sandy, sounds like you could have a bad flow switch. If you have followed the steps from the 1:20 mark in this video, and you are still getting no flow, then I would try replacing the switch to see if that solves your problem. Here is a link to purchase the flow switch. www.inyopools.com/Products/07501352032967.htm

Betty Wakefield click the diagnostic button till you see the temperature then slide the switch from auto to super clor then back down to auto... I hope this helps

Hi Helen, there is usually a switch on the timer that will turn everything off manually. If that doesn't work you can turn off power at the breaker until you can get a new timer. Here is a link to timers on our website if you want to look into purchasing a new one. (www.inyopools.com/ProductListing/controls_intermatic.aspx?Keywords=timers) Hope you get everything sorted out!

There is always the touch test, put your hand over the return to make sure you have normal flow. If the switch is too close to an elbow or Tee it may cause turbulence that can affect the switch's reading. But if the system has been there for 10 years and this is the first problem with it, then it is likely just a bad switch. - MGS

Thank-you, I had brought my flow unit switch to my pool place and they were able to test it with there unit and told me it's fine. Reconnected it and my no flow is no longer red. Patience and praising our Lord Jesus is my only alternative to solving the unsolvable.

giorgio c you could have a clog impeller... that would greatly reduce the pressure of your system

Is the panel receiving power from the breaker box? If the lines leading to the control panel have power, but the panel doesn't turn on this, I would say you need to replace the Aquarite Main PCB - www.inyopools.com/Products/44401352080479.htm

If they only told you "there was a lot of salt" in the pool, that doesn't give you an idea of how to drain. You'd need an actual salinity level ppm number to determine how far over the range you are and then figure out the percentage of water to drain. I suggest trying to recalibrate your salt level. How To Recalibrate the Salt Level on a Hayward Aqua Rite - www.inyopools.com/HowToPage/how_to_recalibrate_the_salt_level_on_a_hayward_aqua_rite.aspx

@Inyopools I did this. But it is Start from 3500 and going down very fast to +-1000. And in the pool approximately +-3000

Hello Ron - You mentioned rebooting the system and we weren't sure if that meant it was recalibrated. Here is a link to our recalibrating instructions www.inyopools.com/HowToPage/how_to_recalibrate_the_salt_level_on_a_hayward_aqua_rite.aspx

I have recalibrated it five times...still the same

yes...I have recalbrated 5 times with the same results. everything is fine except for the salt reading. I have a brand new turbo cell 3 on here.

One of my raedings is -3500.....what does it mean??

That -3500 is the average salt level reading. Check out the AquaRite troubleshooting manual images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/aquarite-tsg-aqr159d.pdf

I meant to say aqua rite. Not Aquarius

You'll need to troubleshoot the box. Check out the Hayward Aquarite Troubleshooting Guide, specifically pages 31-36. images.inyopools.com/cloud/documents/aquarite-tsg-aqr159d.pdf

So I went through the troubleshooting guide and on page 31, section B, checking rectifier voltage between orange and ground it says 12VAC and I got 23 VAC. Could the rectifiers be bad? My original issue is no power light and the generating light comes on for a brief second and then goes off at start up. Everything else checks ok, proper input voltages, no wires have been altered so jumpers are good. Any ideas?

The Hayward AquaRite will deliver between 30-33 VDC to the board to power the T-CELL from the rectifiers via a pair of red wires and a pair of black wires when the T-CELL is not active. When the T-CELL is active the voltage be between 22-28 VDC. Before the rectifiers the voltage should be 20-24 VAC. But that doesn't seem to be the problem in this situation. The generating light is probably going off because there is insufficient salt in the water or the cell is dirty and can't detect that salt is present (should be at least 2800, at most 3400). I'd test the salt in the water first and then get an independent test too for comparison. I'd also clean the cell thoroughly. If that doesn't solve the problem, the next step would be to get the cell tested.

Hi Rick I'am having the same problem and same reading of 24 VAC from the board to ground with the orange wire disconnected the manual says it should be 12 VAC but does not say what is wrong if it has more voltage than it's suppose to. Did you ever get yours fixed?

Just to make sure, are you following these steps listed in the owner's manual? - MGS To Set Turbo Cell Type Before operation, the Aqua Rite must be configured for the chlorinator cell that will be used. Refer to the following information and steps below to set the Turbo cell type. "t-3" = T-CELL-3, GLX-CELL-3-W "t-5" = GLX-CELL-5, GLX-CELL-5-W "t-9 = T-CELL-9, GLX-CELL-9-W "t-15" = T-CELL-15, GLX-CELL-15-W 1. Slide the Main Switch to the "Auto" position. 2. Push the Diagnostic button repeatedly until "t-xx" appears on the display ("t-15" is the factory default). If the desired cell type is displayed skip to step 4. 3. To change to a different cell type, slide the Main Switch from "Auto" to "Super Chlorinate" and back to "Auto". Repeat this process until the desired cell type is displayed. 4. Push the Diagnostic button to exit.

I've got it figured out.. I appreciate the quick response

I got the following from a Hayward Troubleshooting guide: Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will flash together when salt level is between 2500-2600ppm. Chlorine is still being produced. Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will be ON when salt level is 2300ppm or less. Chlorine production is halted. Inspect Cell LED will flash by itself when 500 operational hour countdown timer has expired. Requires manual reset. To manually reset the Inspect Cell LED, press and hold the Diagnostics button until LED goes out (approximately 3 to 5 seconds). Check Salt & Inspect Cell LED’s will also be ON if the control is set for the wrong Turbo Cell type or the cell is unplugged. - MGS

Inyo Pools thanks for the help. Most important information, it's still generating. After rechecking I had no stabilizer. 5lbs and I'm good. Solid reading.

Thank you for giving us an update. Glad it was a cheap fix. - MGS

Inyo Pools please help my check salt and inspect cell in on constant and the generating light

Light shuts off. I just replaced my T cell cause pool store said it was no good . But with the new one installed same light issues check salt and cell lights come on and stay lit and generate light goes out? Is my board shot now also or can it be fixed ? Also I can’t seem to change the T cell from a 15 to a 9 on my board. I have no idea how to do that and I’ve never seen a display for T cell in my window . Please help

Hi Frank, if your system is on the older side, it's possible that the lights have stopped working. You may need to replace the display board. If you have a T-CELL-5 or T-CELL-3 We recommend this board. (www.inyopools.com/Products/07501352032943.htm) If you have a T-CELL-9 or T-CELL-15 then this would be a good choice. (www.inyopools.com/Products/44401352080480.htm). Good Luck!

Mine does the same but says not flow, then after about 20 secs it blinks and the LEDS shut off. Besides the screen

Was it solved ?

@@gurukulstar Yes. Replaced the capicitor

Check out our Aquarite Recalibration video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nMWIp5ykx66YfWw.html

Charles, you may want to contact Hayward ( (908) 355-7995) as the Aquarite manual does not have information pertaining to the codes that you mentioned.

Thanks for looking. If I find out anything, I'll let you know.

There's no Hayward AquaRite E3 cell that I am aware of.

Have you tested a sample of your water at a local pool store? If so, what was the salt content result? - MGS

Christina Stachowski what kind of Cell do you have on your system? When you go through the diagnostic is there a place where you can select what Cell you are you using?

If you are unable select what type of cell you are using from the diagnostic menu The default setting for the system is a T-15 cell. There is a jumper on the inside of the control box that you can remove and it will allow your system to recognize a T-5 cell... I hope this helps

It is a possibility, but it is not likely. What are the results of your water levels tests? Free Chlorine, pH, Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness.

Well, I can tell you as of this morning everything was within normal limits, but zero free chlorine, zero total chlorine. I also noticed when I was brushing the pool is this whitish kinda gray powder on the bottom surface. I took the filter out and cleaned it again. My salt generator has been set on 60% for over a week now, I don't understand why there would be zero chlorine in the pool Stabilizer was fine also. Phosphates are fine. Everything appears normal on the salt system. Light is illuminated that reads 'generating.' It's making me nuts. I've probably added 8 bags of shock now over the last two weeks. 2 weeks ago when I brushed it a whole bunch of green was coming off of the surface. Haven't seen that at all anymore.

@@firelou17 did you ever figure out the problem?

Omar Garcia clean the cell and hold diagnostics button down till it stops