Thanks for the comment! I hope to have more useful ones soon as the 40 year old beast needs some attention.

Thanks for checking it out. It is a heavy beast and big tools are needed for about everything. It is fun to work on when the result is that it runs and digs.

I jk

👍🏻

thanks. that old machine is still kicking!

There are "cleaner" more precise ways to do these types of repairs but if you are in a pinch, use my methods and improve on them as you see fit.

Thanks, it is a "backyard" repair so some improvements can be made and better methods but that cylinder is still going after 3 years

Gracias por la crítica, sé que el trabajo se puede hacer mejor y en un entorno más controlado.

Merci pour ton aimable commentaire. J'espère que vous pouvez faire les réparations à votre machine.

The Mountain thanks for your reply, there is no holes for a spanner wrench it looks like I will need a pipe wrench to pull the end cap off! I have all the tools for the job. I think?

Mine doesn't have holes either but slots in the outer rim. Mine has been chewed up over 40 years of abuse and the pipe wrench was unfortunately the only tool I had to do the job.

How do you bleed out the air out of the cilinder?

Read through the comments. Some proper spanner wrenches may be needed, o-ring hook set and something to protect the rod. Thanks, hope your repair is a success.

Yes, with an old machine like this one, I check for leaks and damage on it every few hours. This involves walking around the machine while it is running before, during and after use. Examine the ground for leaks when you move from spot to spot. I even monitor all the noises so that when something changes tone or I hear a hiss, I get out and inspect. If I have a leak, I classify it as manageable until I can fix it or FIX IT NOW.

I am happy the video helped. I am not the best hydraulic mechanic but I get the machine to work.

Ich bin froh, dass das Video geholfen hat. Ich bin nicht der beste Hydraulikmechaniker, aber ich bringe die Maschine zum Laufen.

My thoughts exactly.

Until the spanner holes get shitty

I could not see any edge holes or recesses or face holes for using a spanner wrench. Isn't there a chain wrench that grabs better than a giant plumber wrench?

+Greg Huck Thanks! I will listen. I will say that one of the pins on my crankshaft pulley cracked and in turn broke the clamp that drives the pump. Take a look to see if the bushings and clamp is secure. Mine started making a clicking noise before it threw the clamp but It didn't last long before it broke.The plastic bushings that are secured by the clamps on the pins could be worn and when the engine slows to a stop it could shift around.

+The Mountain thanks, I will try and narrow it down a little further. I am trying to learn line boring as the lower outrigger pin to tractor is egg shaped, the pin bushing is too loose to fit tight. a little welding and rebore is my next fix.

I appreciate any advice. I do believe both lines were removed, it was just tough to remove. Hopefully I will convey all the helpful tips people have posted in a new future video. Hell, I will even address the hateful ones.

I don’t think so. It’s been a few years so it may have just been the way the edit happened. Maybe I cut the hydraulic fluid emptying onto the ground. So put something below it so it doesn’t get on the ground. That’s the only thing I can think of. Thanks

Ha, Yeah, thanks. Yes, I am just a dude with his machine with holes to dig and stuff to move. Either later in the winter or early spring i will add some videos on more repairs it needs. It is hard to do a greasy job, narrate on the fly and use all the right terminology with a "back yard" repair. Let's hope I get it right.

The Mountain hey whats the worst that the commenters are going to do? fire you? haha I'm actually about to hopefully get into heavy equipment mechanics ASAP and get a career going

I didn't but that is another good point that would smooth them out even more. thanks

yes, a penetrating oil is helpful sometimes, on some of these bolts, penetrating oil, heat, brute force and frustration can be required

There were not on that cylinder. Thinking back i could have welded up a special wrench to fit in some slots on the end but that is what I did. Nothing was “professional”.

it is a good idea, or lube up the shaft. or both.

You are right. It's job is to clear debris to keep the other seals in better working order

true, it just came out, non-scripted, it has more miles now!

Awesome. Those old machines run forever!

Thanks, I thought it was a "Gland" Nut. I apologize for not using the correct terminology while doing the video.

Danny Creech it was chewed up through the years so all evidence of holes or slots were long gone making the use of a traditional tool impossible. Plus, this is good ol backyard engineering.

The Mountain Not critizing, just noticed. After 40 years of being a machinist/toolmaker I just see things differently.

Danny Creech not taken negatively at all. I agree, the correct tool is always better. Always open to constructive criticism that benefits knowledge and procedures. I will never get it perfect.

It depends on where you are and what parts you are looking for. For parts specific to John Deere, a JD dealer is best but you will pay for it. I get some of my parts from James River Equipment (they are a john deere dealer here in the South East) www.jamesriverequipment.com/. Or, you can find the part you need on the John Deere Parts catalog: jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt and then search for it online for he best price from various parts warehouses. There are heavy equipment junk yards out there but my machine is OLD and i haven't had much luck in that realm. For hydraulic hoses, find a local supplier. Here I use Catawba Rubber www.catawbarubber.com/ for my hoses, SO much cheaper than getting it from JD, you just need to bring it in or have specifics on it when you order it (size, length, pressure, thread, etc). For fittings, it can be all over the place, I have two places I get them from, Motion Industries, motionindustries.com (i suggest finding a local place if you use them) Prices are very good. Or, I use local tractor parts stores. Today, I had to buy a fitting for a 3/4" hose and it was $18 from the dealer, $14 online, $8 from the tractor parts guy and $3 from Motion Industries. Issue was Motion had to order and the tractor guy had it on hand. So, $8 is was. I get my Fluid from tractor supply. The specs on their traveler universal fit my machine and the price is much better than JD's

I should do a video on parts so the guy that commented that I talk to much below will lose his sh*t.

NC - although with the current heat, I going to say it must be Equador

Haha ok. I'm from North Central too. Bradford Tioga county line. You?

Jonathan Blackmon it is old and banged up. I'm milking it as long as I can.

um... yes?

석유를 재활용하다

Gracias, por favor dirígeme a su video para que pueda ver cómo funciona el trabajo correctamente.

I do this for a living I will give him props for trying though he at least had the guts to try

You do got that right, there are MANY parts on that machine that need to be replaced however its still kicking. I am no professional and appreciate any constructive criticism . It still hasn't leaked which I am sure is a miracle.

@@jacobjones6456 Thanks, I appreciate the props! Many people have criticisms for others on KZfaq but don't have videos of their own.

There's always " that guy"

+the thing Good idea with the cut pipe. Will do that next rebuild. And try not to talk to much. Its a horrible problem I have.

Thanks, I will be bringing the beast back from its current work location and then rebuilding the opposite stabilizer cylinder. I hope to upgrade the video on the next one to be better both in information and methods.

If you think he talks too much then mute your speakers. BTW, you write too much.