thanks for watching! FYI *it was noted: that you could replace the lower control arms after the factory coils have been removed and before you install the new suspension coils. This can allow for smoother install. But it’s not recommended by Skyjacker Also: Just keep in mind I bought this kit because i thought it was a perfect starter lift kit to upgrade as time and money allows! Future plans and up grades for this TJ: Removal of T- case drop kit Adams sye and cardan driveshaft All 4 upper adjustable control arms Steinjager cross over steering kit! FAST FORWARD OPTION : Remove & Replace = R&R Track bar R&R 1:55 / 4:13 / 13:32 Drag link ball joint R&R 2:09 / 3:30 / 8:28 / 11:45 Sway bar end link R&R 2:30 / 2:54 / 12:25 Front shocks removal 2:45 Factory front coil springs removal 3:01 Pitman arm R&R 4:40 / 7:58 Bump stops R&R 6:30 New DR coil springs install 8:34 New front shocks 11:26 Front lower control arms R&R 14:01 T-case drop install 16:56 Rear track bar mount install 21:06 / 25:00 Rear bump stops R&R 21:35 Rear coil springs R&R 21:35 Rear lower control arms R&R 22:50 / 24:12 / 24:45 Rear sway bar end links 23:34 Rear shocks 24:31 Safety check 25:20 I definitely understand your concern with the way it may handle on road. As this is my concern also! I can only share my experiences in hope that you can take this information and solve your own problems as we are different. A few questions I have for you : is the lift a short or long arm kit? did the lift come with the the pitman arm drop? Do you have adjustable upper and lower control arms on the front axle? I have two jeeps and both do not have death wobble or wandering! I suspect wander comes from loose steering, improper caster and tire pressure. Bad ball joints, loose track bar. Heres is a few different scenarios for perspective: My green jeep has an older 3.5” procomp short arm lift. Kit came with a frame side track bar drop down bracket (weld on) and adjustable heim track bar with a pitman arm drop. And after the lift i experienced wandering. The fix was a heavy duty moog inverted y link that allows for lift adjustment. The moog y link is very solid and if you were to grab it, it offers zero movement! The ball joints are very very tight. I suspect this is why people tend to go with Currie rock jocks y link and they are sold when it fixes these problems. Moog is half the cost and same quality IMO. It’s been 8 years plus on that lift and I’ve had to tighten the track bar twice. After hard wheeling, That jeep regardless is a smooth operator! Now for the red jeep: It has a 4” skyjacker short arm kit and dual rate coils. For this jeep I went a different route. The lift didn’t come with a track bar so I bought the steinjager track bar. I liked this track bar because I didn’t need to weld on a frame side drop down track bar mount. Just drilled a hole and mounted it to the stock frame mount. It’s configuration allows for no drop mount by design. After that I put back on the stock inverted y link and boom wandering and instant death wobble. I took the jeep to a alignment shop and the wandering seemed to be better but still getting a very good shake at the steering wheel from 55-60 mph. I could not deal with that at all. I got the crossover steering installed and yep still had the issue but the steering definitely felt tighter. The shake was still Happening. I started back to the basics, remembered that my jk has a light that comes on the dash if my tire pressure goes below 37psi or if there’s a significant temperature drop causing it. Known that i decided to bump up my tire pressure from 32 to 40psi , took the jeep for a ride and boom the shake in the steering was gone! The tires I have had side wall give and do not like lower pressures! 40psi all the way around did it for me and it’s now a smooth operator! After installing the crossover steer I put back on the stock pitman arm! But I honestly don’t think it matters. The lift was designed for it but the new drag link seemed to have adjustment for that. I would say the main purpose for the pitman arm drop is to correct bump steer with the stock y link setup! When the axle goes up to the frame after hitting a bump the drag link puts force into the pitman arm transferring to the steering box then up to the steering wheel where you can feel it and try to correct. That constant trying to correct can get very annoying! This is what I call wandering! Or bad road tracking. Even the roads play a role in this. As of now I don’t run the drop pitman and my drag link /ride seems to not care. The ideal fix is to get the drag link as parallel to the track bar as possible (near perfect horizontal). On Tjs that’s almost impossible because the passenger nuckle is set up for y link. On jks it’s very simple just add a axle side drag and track bar lift bracket to accommodate for the new lift correcting the steerings new geometry making them parallel and horizontal. One other thing to consider is caster , I have smaller tires so caster is less, larger tires offer way more caster and lift manufacturers know that you may be putting on larger tires. Adjustable lower and upper control arms correct caster by putting the axle out further ahead of the frame and the uppers correct the caster adjustment. Pushing that axle out further makes a world of a difference for our tjs you can correct caster and at the same time correct front pinion / driveshaft angles! Luckily on my 97 I was able to have eccentric lower control arm adjustment bolts. I’m currently maxed out without causing my front pinion angle to be out of spec. I’d definitely look at front upper and lower control arms as well. These cheap kits only offer and even say they are only good for offroad use . Not on road use! Go figure , 4lo is top speed 10mph haha. My suggestion is if you want a road worthy tj it’s going to be upgrading control arms and steering as well. Those cheap starter kits are not enough and are only meant for 10 mph offroad! Hope this insight helps Atem offroad

I just ordered my 2.5" lift for my TJ se. So glad you made this video. 2.5" lift doesn't have as many steps but this was a tremendous help! Keep making TJ videos my dude... HAPPY JEEPING!✌️

Damn nice video, great tips, good pacing, tight views, better than most pro video instructions, well done, thank you

Great work ! Enjoyed every bit of it and I’m usually impatient, you’re a cool dude keep it up !

Great video! Very informative. Also, great tip on the headlights...something most people don't mention or forget altogether.

Outstanding video! Thanks for taking the time.

I thought about a 3" lift w/ 33's but fortunately very early on getting into off roading Jeeps, many told me, their TJ became very sluggish going from just 32's to 33's in addition to a domino effect of needing additional expensive parts. And I'm glad I listened! Because I drove a TJ with this set up and it didn't have that low end torque and was very slow off the line. And most of them returned to 32's while some fell for the aftermarket bait, very expensive bait. I get many who want to know what is the perfect build. Which is not easy to answer because everyone does different things with their Jeep. But I would like to share mine since my '05 TJ Rocky Mtn drives and handles absolutely amazing on and off road. Keep in mind, I am NOT a rock crawler, although I don't go out seeking rock crawling it's still a lot of fun encountering them on the trail and knowing the TJ can handle some of it. I'm an adventurer who takes the family beach wheelin, beach camping, surf fishing, and we hit fun, moderate trails in the fall and winter getting to our favorite fishing holes and camp sites. Which is why the build is for what's near and for what we do, nothing was put on this TJ unnecessarily for show. I see too many "spotless Jeeps" with 33's - 38's. As long as you have good off road instincts and common sense, a modest, high quality build will allow you and your family to have a lot of fun! All in, I'm at $25k with my '05 TJ Rocky Mtn. And I can honestly say build wise, I'm done!! I might Raptor line it since the TJ has a few rough paint spots and won't ever have to worry about off road pinstriping again. The best part is, this TJ not only keeps up, but outperforms a lot of these $40k - $75k JK's & JL' s. Due in part to people's inexperience and just "over building". The '05 TJ has a modest build, yet is extremely capable, durable and best of all, affordable. I encourage any Jeeper to search for a rust free TJ 4.0 I6, preferably stock, 3.73's w/ LSD and a Dana 44. And to use my build as a "guide". But I highly recommend this build for anyone who is an adventurer, not a rock crawler. Best of all, it will eliminate you from chasing your tail, and the aftermarket will have one less "just empty every pocket" victim out there! It was a lot of trial and error but it has been well worth it. 2" Old Man Emu coils 32" KO2's or 32" BFG MT's Quadratec Baja alloy rims - perfect backspacing - no rub! Currectlync steering Freedom Off Road front Adj track bar M.O.R.E steering box brace JKS quick disconnects Freedom Off Road front lower Adj control arms The rest are fixed Detroit Axles Transfer case drop kit Fox 2.0 Shox Fox steering stabilizer Professional 4x4 shop to do the alignment Since doing this, I have had the best experience with any vehicle I've ever had. Staying with 32's allows us Jeepers to maintain that great low end torque, saves us a lot of money on unnecessary aftermarket parts and still be able to wheel most anywhere. It's the best of all worlds! One of my favorite mods was adding a Banks cat back exhaust giving it a throaty growl, but not obnoxiously loud ticking off the neighbors. Absolutely perfect for the 4.0 I6. Most importantly, be honest with yourself, build your TJ for what you will be using it for. And know YOU CAN do great trails and much more with just a 2" lift and 32" ko2's or MT's! DO NOT let the aftermarket pushers fool or shame you into thinking you "need" 33" - 40" tires and a 5" lift to wheel. That's 🦬💩! They know full well, once they get you at 33's, it's a freaking cash cow for them! Because you just embarked on their multi thousand dollar build conveyor belt. And it's 100% unnecessary for moderate wheelin'! Your axles, drive train, drive shafts, engine, gearing and a host of a lot of other stuff now "needs" to be upgraded. The aftermarket pushers feast on naive people. Don't be that guy! Like cereal companies saying breakfast is the most important meal of the day, the aftermarket will continue to take advantage of the misinformed. And anyone with a 2 door JL Rubicon, while I definitely prefer my '05 TJ Rocky Mtn over anything from '07 - present, I have to say these 2 dr JL Rubicons are absolutely complete, no reason to do anything to them! 33" MT's, perfect stock height lift, 4:1 ratio, lockers, etc. I wheeled with a couple that have this animal of Jeep and told them to leave it alone, it's perfect! They knew what they had and I don't forsee them changing anything. I tell them mine is just as capable and $40k less. 😎 But at least they won't have to spend so much as a dollar in unnecessary upgrades. O|||||||O 🇺🇲 Only in a 2 Dr 🇺🇲 '41- '06

Also, leave nut threaded on when tapping tre. If you’re reusing, you could gaul the threads

Good work on this video! Very clear explanations and easy to follow along!! Stay jeepin

Dude hahaha I totally love the winch pull idea!! Best part of the vid!! Being creative !

I just bought this same lift for my ‘06 TJ and, though I’m pretty mechanical, I was struggling with the install (Skyjacker’s instructions aren’t great). This video made everything much more clear and I’m ready to get back to it tomorrow with a much better idea of how it all goes. I don’t know what I would do without KZfaq and especially this video. Thanks!

Such a good quality video, thanks!

Thanks for the video. Cheers from about 40 min south of you in Cen Valley.

Excellent video.

Looks great! You should do a walk around now

Cool Video Man. New suscriber..! 👌🏼👌🏼 Regards From Nicaragua, Central America 👋🏼👋🏻

Looks so nice where your at , t-shirts weather make wrenching much easier,

You do not want to use that drop pitman arm. You should reinstall the factory pitman arm. Drop pitman arms are not necessary for TJs and will give you steering issues. Also with a 4 inch lift you want to run front upper adjustable links to get your caster and pinion angle dialed back in. Also highly recommend you get and sye and a double cardan drive shaft in order to remove the skid plate drop brackets. Then upper rear adjustable links to set pinion angle.

Great video, just as a psa.. you torque from the nut side unless stated otherwise

I want to do all this to my jeep!

Nice and the only video in KZfaq about this kit. I run 34" tires in my tj you think fit on this lift kit?

Wow those trails in the beginning of the video look awesome, where is this?

Please check out proper use of a click type torque wrench. You aren't supposed to keep torquing after it clicks. Nearly every time you added additional torque 2-3 times over what you specified torque. Probably not as critical with suspension parts but damn.

i enjoyed your video, can you clarify a little more about the transfer case dr/op. i have 97 wrangler automatic and i am confused to what the drop actually does becuase in your video the only thing i see lowered is the skid plate or does the transfer case rest on the skid plate. i just cannot tell from the video what you are actually doing other than loosening the bolts and installing the skid plate lowering.

Forgive me if this has been asked... What size tires are those? If they are 35s... Did you regear... Or is that unnecessary with 35?

Wonder why you had to use the winch to pull out the axle. Are the lower control arms longer?

I have a stock 2005 Jeep Wrangler LJ unlimited, is all the parts in the description the only parts I would need to get to take it from stock to lifted? What about about tires what size of tires would work or could I use the standard tire that is recommended?

So if you go with the transfer case drop, you don't need the SYE?

Did you have to replace the track bar you mentioned in the beginning?

I’ve always read that the drop pitman arm is a bad idea.

Just FYI a drop pitman arm is not needed unless your doing a 6" + lift .....4" lift with drop pitman arm just causes geometry problems and then using a spring compressor to install springs thats dangerous, just lift the jeep up drop one side of the axle maybe use a jack on opisite side lifting up should give you plenty of room to get the spring in

@12:29 did you have any issues on the passenger side sway bar end link quick disconnects? I have a teraflex one that I cannot for the life of me get past the bracket that holds the steering stabilizer.

That jeep is super clean man! U just buy it?

Do i only need what the four Amazon links are

Is this all with the OEM drive shafts?

Do you have to do any transfer case drops or anything like that? I’m a new TJ Jeep owner, it’s got an OME lift and 31’s. Average off-roader, nothing Jeep crazy. Just minor stuff, small waterfalls in AZ. How has this been for you?

In my state if you point the headlights down it won't pass inspection.

No pull from winch.

what size is your tire

take note i think he torked the bolts at inch pounds don't make the same mistake foot pounds

Nice tj, horrible lift.kit though.

you should rename this thing "project barbie car" because it's gulping seamonkeys by the gallon.