Did you get it?

@@xstnxyunggunz8615 Yup,it is an awesome gon. Had no Issuses with it so far, and it is a blast to be firing with, can't recommend this enough

God bless yall. I hear gellblasters are coming along though

im glad im not the only one with that problem i jsut dropped an ra tech trigger box in, it works beautifully except for that, my thought is that the ra selector switch would probably fix that problem

@@PongoDaMan I found out that the problem lies into the hook design of the hammer and disconnector. These parts need to be either broken in or filed but be warned ! Too much filing and you can end up rendering these parts unusable. That's what happened to me, first issue resulted in the disconnector releasing the hammer on trigger reset and second issue is hammer having too much resistance to engage the disconnector... Don't do like me. Do a little bit at a time, reassemble and test. Or you'll have to buy another set of parts like I did 😔

Just tried this, now I can use my 416 again and with p mags!!!

@@rcnewman51. hahahaa congratulation and enjoy😆,

RA-Tech have major issues with tolerances. If you take the time to file them down and fit RA-Tech parts properly it's great and works... but like, it's pretty damn annoying that you need to edit BRAND NEW parts lol. At the end of the day, just buy a Vipertech.

@@ErgonomicChair or Tokyo marui

@@gold.2948 Yeah for sure, there's some good aftermarket trigger units for the MWS that's 7075 or even some steel trigger units.

Did you find the solution? I'm thinking in buy a we m4 but I'm kinda worry about that

I fill them with gas and let them sit. All my gas mags are always under pressure.

I found an usp mag made by tanio koba bought 13 years ago and not used for the past 10. It still had gas inside and is working fine :)

Have you tried better bb's?

Hello there, can you explain this method with a link to images or video? Thanks.

A ra tech hammer won't eat at the bolt any moreso than the stock hammer because the stock hammer has a steel roller bearing just like the ra tech version. Other than that the bolt does not interface with the hammer anywhere else.

I can help you with this. You either go full ra-tech, or stick with the original parts. DO NOT MIX THEM.

Just practice reloading at normal speed then after that's as familiar as breathing and blinking then work on speed 😉

Alan Siqueira my KAC run 70degree bucking (single dot will be enough) and 6.03 inner barrel. And better upgrade end of recoil spring ( add rubber pad) to avoid kick to break end of lower body

Recently bought VFC AR15 (Sabre). It's great and video coming up in the future.

literally RAtech is ''for WE''

@@user-se8ip4iy9c I bought 2 BC (1 with magnetic npas) and neither of them fit well with upper reciever. Furthermore, I wanted to upgrade the bolt lock lever - none did anything because they are not as wide as og and just rattle around. So far my attempts with ratech were just money thrown away, thats why I'm asking.

From your description I cannot tell. Just open it and see what's wrong.

Nutbuster with lots of problem

My colleague owns one. He says it's terrible.

I own one of these. They have the potential to truly be something special you just have to put a great deal of work into them, which is true with most gas guns. Honestly, the only real problem you may run into is the nozzle breaking and possibly issues with the trigger group. If you get the old batch of guns the bolt was a real problem with the bolt carrier warping and mushrooming when hitting the springs on the bolt guide rods. An early fix to this devised by Bullet4myenemy was to put two washers on the guide rod to minimize this warping effect. On the new rifles this issue was permanently fixed with the company attaching a steal plate to the bolt carrier. Other than that I've put something like 5k bb's through this and haven't had a single problem. Despite what people say on forums there really isn't a need to upgrade to all those fancy RA-tech steel parts and actually this can damage some of your stock parts if you don't upgrade all of them to steel. The only stock part I recommend upgrading to RAT Steel is the trigger group. If you do this and have the new bolt the gun actually works quite reliably with no issues, except the plastic nozzle of course that always has the chance of breaking.

well bych nebral. Kvalitativne to bude spatny. Kdyz AK tak GHK ale musis setrit. Ano obcas se do ketek podivam.

it take 2 seconds

Nope, I cannot comment on the MSK as I don't have one. From what I heard though, it's not the best choice. Maybe someone else here has more info on it?

@@JosefMucha100thanks anyway and keep up the good work 👍🏻😉

yes I know. gas vs piston driven. But it's good for more camera clearance.

In my experience never use bb lower than 0.30 on gbb gun. No matter how long your barrel is, just use 0.30-0.40 bb to maintain trajectory stability. Low weights bb only ruining your accuracy.

PR0bro sounds like your mags are not getting filled properly. You might want to disassemble them and clean them up and try again.

@@alvinwong4461 Ill try that. It's also important to note that I had the common nozzle failure, 2 times, both on the same nozzle. In fact I'm still on the same nozzle and the gun still fires, but that could also be a reason why gas efficiency is so bad.

Hello, is your gun still working right now? How many shots did it take to replace the stock internals

@@bvphil982 my gun has about 60,000 rds through it, still works, but trigger group fails roughly 20,000-40,000rds (currently on 2nd dead trigger group), and I’ve been through 2 nozzles in this time as well. Its due for a new bolt catch now, along with shimming the bolt catch mount.

​@@PR0bro i think you got really lucky with your unit. A lot of people complain about WE gbbrs and WE has some lemons, especially on their other guns.

it should be, but I don't use them so do more research.