Holy shit, haha I had the EXACT same thing happen last month. I replaced the belt about 4 years ago when the water pump broke and belt snapped while driving. When I installed the new belt I kind of knicked/damaged it. I had doubts but used it anyways and it lasted this long before getting wrapped up on the crank pulley and broke the crank position sensor in half. Cars back running great thanks to all the great videos on KZfaq 😅

I have the same car and the same problem, did this help you???

This engine was in the Australian Holden Commodore from 1988 (VN) up until 2004 (VY)! Similar car to the Buick Regal/Sabre but RWD. They were the Pontiac G8 in the USA. This stalling issues has come my way and is annoying the absolute heck out of me, currently going through wire loom to look for corrosion or shorted wires. Aside from this massive stalling issue (google it, there's hundreds of threads across the Holden Commodore and Buicks) they last for 500,000km+ although a bit heavy on fuel.

@@TheApothecaryAus Agree completely. They were efficient for their time but not so much today. But they do last a very long time with no major maintenance. Like all engines they have some weaknesses - in this case the CPS is one of them.

Got all mine at series 1.. hate the electrical problems that shut it off while running

I changed my plugs and wires now it same like it gets real hot.an make the dashboard oil Gage and water gate is not working now

What about the camshaft interrupter magnet on the timing chain sprocket

You can also do a direct upgrade of the coil pack and ICM with the Series 1 coils; the brackets and connectors are the exact same, but they are better tech. You can't upgrade, however, to the series 2.

I just changed that sensor still not cranking please help me

Was it the problem? My car is stalling and doesn’t start up for 20-30 minutes, but starts up again after and runs fine but then this cycle repeats

Did it fix the problem

Any lucky with this?

Silicone is mostly unaffected by oils and other typical contaminants, but if the wiper gaskets get 'bound up' and do not slide smoothly against the mating surface lubricant can help. I find that WD-40 or equivalent works just fine, but other solutions would work at least as well.

The gen2 is quite a bit different. I'm sure someone more knowledgable than myself could tell you what is required to swap, but it won't just drop in. The gen2's were good engines with more power and smoother, but the first gen engines were tanks. No plastic manifolds, fittings, or failing engine mounts here!

David Settles it might be ignition module

Did you ever figure out what was causing that?

Hope the video helps and it's worth a try, but if it only stalls in hot weather it's more likely a bad sensor that needs replacing or some other electronic issue. I do have a video on replacing the sensor if you wanted to give that a shot.

Solid advice. Some greases can cause the seals to swell and potentially leak/fail but dielectric grease is usually safe.

did you find a solution to the problem?

Same here on my 87 map sensor location?

Hey, I just changed the crank shaft sensor yesterday, and my 1995 Park Ave. stalled on the freeway. Other people say it might be the fuel regulator sensor...... I don't know

Lone Wolf Use butt end of screw driver tap MAP sensor (Its black in color made of thick hard plastic approx 2 1/2 inches long by 1 1/2 inch wide) sensor is directly behind manifold you can see it with your eyes no need look behind manifold, right side of alternator, If MAP sensor is bad or faulty. Guarantee your car wont start. You can either buy new $75 or buy salvage $35

Lone Wolf Engine stalls? Its fuel related have fuel filter checked you need replace this part every year filter get dirty clogged which prevent fuel reach engine. Also check fuel regulator. Dont usually need replace part just use air hose clean it out.

Get a Actron CP9690 code tester. It checks live, record, graphing, emissions readiness test, freeze frame, oxygen sensor test, ABS, SRS, and MORE! It includes OBDI adaptor for Ford, G.M., Chrysler, and Toyota. Get a USB cable to update it. The screen is well-lit. It retains the memory of results. The battery is under the cover under the screw in the back. It's either a AA or AAA. It comes in a black pouch.

@@hankbridges5055 if is start and then die after that it can be also a fuel pump resititor

@@christinammcnair1632 would that also cause intermittent power loss. Mine is like the key is turned off and on fast.

Agreed.

If it is only an idle problem I would suspect something else other than the crank sensor.

I just change that my car still killed on me its the camshaft one i have a 3100

Not sure on your wiring but my 2003 buick lesabre with 270k had random stalling, would randomly idle so high I had to restart to shift out of park for fear of damage and also had a surging overdrive and passing gear that usually never kicked in. I cleaned the ground connection on top of transmission behind air box because I saw signs of corrosion hiding underneath. Fixed all these issues.

I know it's an old question, but you can't go wrong with just buying them and putting them on yourself. I always get all new sensors if I have to tear into a 3800, it's more likely that they are at fault rather than something mechanical. I replace the TPS, IAC, MAF, or you could just buy an aftermarket throttlebody to do those 3 easily. But it's really easy either route you take. Coolant temp sensors can actually cause more problems than one would expect too, a little harder to get to but still a 20-30 minute job. Best of luck, I have faith you'll figure it out. Take care of that old girl, I love PA's :)

Late reply but that could be the sparks or it could be your coil pack. If not maybe a ground problem

Nemo true

@@Oghurrakane I Agree.

4 years late, but I agree. Dielectric grease would have been better.

thx 4 the tip nemo

Thanks for the price update - that seems fair to me assuming the shop and diagnostic fee assuming the crank sensor also had to be replaced. Running a business is expensive anymore with all of the laws you need to make sure you're following to the letter and the liability risks. And that shop likely put in a GM sensor rather than the BYD garbage I used. I mean it worked for me on this one-off job but, well, I wouldn't put that in a customer's car and risk having to do the job twice on my own dime.

+dakota feth One thing that can happen with these is an issue with the camshaft sensor. That sensor relies on a small magnet in the cam gear to get it's readings, and that magnet can fall out. Fixing that has cured these problems for some people who have been baffled by this problem. That said, I don't think it's an easy DIY fix.

O wow thats What My mechanic told me

Sounds like your throttle body position sensor or mass air flow. I had it happen with a VW that would die if you didn't get it gas and ran terrible till I replaced it.

we got 6.0, 5.7, 5.3, 5.4, 7.4, 6.2

yup :)

All Great engines, V8s, great power, most of em are pretty thirsty though

Goddamn dude. Your country is screwing you out of tons of fun. Any 3800 series is a great engine due to the reliability. But yeah there are several bigger engines out there we can get. The most unique engine design I have to say would be by ol Pontisnack. The 350 and 455 and most of their engine blocks were exactly the same. They utilized changine bore dimensions and larger cams, pistons etc to get difference displacement and compression. Chevy a sister company changed the whole block. This is why 350 pontiac heads will fit a 455 block and many of their other engines even the 301 turd. This in my opinion made Pontiac very unique engine designers. Although you wouldn't want to swap and mix and match engines it still is pretty cool. They were basically early engine modders before it became really popular. Pontiac in my opinion never had body design issues but they sucked hard for general engine design aside from a few gems in the V8's. Most of the time if someone owns a pontiac they will have to rebuild it with a higher standard of care and then the engine will be perfect. The 3800 however was taken from GM and placed in many many many cars and was one of the longest running engine designs to date. I would say they are as strong as a 350 but not nearly as powerful. Too bad Europe is uppity about shit like that because you guys can't seem to fart without a piece of legislation being written of when and where to do it. If I were you I would take two inline four engines and weld the blocks and design my own engine and put it in a dune buggy I built and research the shit out of engine building and have me some fun. Chances are the cops won't have an inline 8 engine so they would probably not catch you lol. And yes there have been folks weld engines together and get them running. A guy on KZfaq did it with 4 briggs and stratton lawn mower engines. Funny looking contraption but it worked.

evilcowboy I saw that briggs video you mention a while back! Interesting experiment but I'm not nearly that creative..

That was a common issue on cold startup. Fuel would leak into the vacuum line and get drawn into the engine once it fired. Did yours stall at times other than startup and still have good power?

***** yes out the blue it would stall

I can't be sure but it sounds more like a wiring issue or electronic module problem. Again I am not sure.

William Waddington Did you ever find the cause of this problem ?

Change crank sensor Hall effect getting weak. Changing then only helps sometimes

I believe it should be on the top somewhere, its super accessible easy no tools needed. It’s connected to a small black box. The connector looks the same as the camshaft

Sounds like a faulty ECM/PCM, especially if no error code is set. Don't forget to move over the "MEM-CAL" to the new/used ECM.

What you do now is don't throw any more parts at it and diagnose the system(s) instead. Check that each spark plug is actually firing - pull 'em out, ground 'em with a screw driver, and verify if they are sparking at all when you crank the engine. No spark? Get out the multimeter and start checking for signals going to the ignition module. Check resistances in the coils and plug wires. Check the crank AND cam position sensors using your multimeter. Check your MAF sensor with your multimeter. If you ARE getting spark, then move on to the fuel delivery systems. Check fuel pressure, check for the "whirring" or "humming" sound that should happen from the fuel pump when you first turn the key to "ON" (but without actually engaging the starter motor). Most of the computers (PCM / ECM) in these cars are pretty solid. I've never personally had one fail on me ... although they CAN fail, it seems more likely to be something else. I wouldn't suspect a timing chain unless you verify that spark and fuel delivery are all happening. Just take your time and methodically check each system ... move from the easiest to reach stuff down to the harder to reach stuff. Not all sensor failures will trigger the computer's fault code system. Realistically, most of the fault codes the computer will report are emissions-based anyway. That's not saying ALL of them are ... but I've seen many crank position sensors fail and not throw computer codes. I've also seen MAF and cam position sensors fail without triggering any codes in the computer. Just remember: take a deep breath, be patient, don't panic, take your time, and ALWAYS start with the easiest stuff and work your way up to the more difficult stuff.

It was a bad fuse box #24 fuse. weird

Maybe a plugged Catalytic Converter.

Jerrad, had this issue with my '99 eight-eight Royle. I replace practically every conceivable component related to this symptom. In fact had one client I visited 3 different times and it stalled each time in the exact same place when i turned the wheel into the parking place. Had to look up to see if any UFO's where above! At any rate it kept getting worse as time went on. Come to find ut it was the "orange" ignition wire coming out of the steering column. Inside the orange wire are 2 white wires. Both are connected to the ignition on both sides of the key in order to read the resistor on the key and loop back to the computer and the other to the security system. Not sure of the sequence but the "security" light flashed a couple of times and sometimes stays on. GM security system is squirrely in short "crappy"! At any rate you can measure the resistants on your key and split the wires and get resistors equal to it so it fakes the computer..... BUT instead I got a BYPASS module from NEW ROCKYS and it is FANTASTIC!!! It has been 9 month...NO ISSUES. Also it is guarantee 100%! The instructions are awesomely simple. Hope this helps! newrockies.com/passlock-bypass-2/

@@sorrycharlie99 That's not how the VATS system works, Spammer Geff. If the module detects a failure while the engine is running, it will _not_ stop running. So, you're either full of shit, or just ignorant. In fact, the quickest way to disable the system is to cut those two white wires with the engine running -- but then you'll have a full-time Security light (not flashing). The right way is mimic the key with a resistor.

​@@peak0iler Read the post mac! The module I am referring to is the security module not the ICM OR ECU. I even had a link to the part I was referring to i.e. Newrockies bypass security module site. The 2 white wires (enclosed in the orange insulator) can short out in the steering column and send a signal to the SECURITY MODULE causing it to shut the engine off. It happened to me multiple times but after installing the Newrockies bypass security MODULE (which bypasses the column wires) it has never stalled again The module is located behind the glove box. Gerrad was concerned about his issue I gave him a solution but you had nothing but ridicule. Word of advise, quit acting like the typical liberal in Washington and know the facts before coming to your own fake new conclusions. These people are known as "TWITS"!

I've owned a Buick Century of the same vintage for nearly 20 years. I've not had to do even ONE repair on it that whole time. Rock solid vehicle. I miss the days when GM made vehicles worth buying. Anymore with today's vehicles if it isn't Japanese or perhaps in some cases Korean I'm not interested and that's a very sad state of affairs. The only exception I make is pickup trucks (and vehicles on those chassis) where US manufacturers still make some of the best.

Morris McMullen same spot

Well... I'd go back to fuel/air/spark. Check for spark on each of the 3 coils - this can be done with a simple jumper wire if necessary. Check for fuel - this can be done by spraying starting fluid into the intake and cranking it over. As for air if it has decent compression as heard by turning it over you are fine. It has to be one of those 3! I assume it is turning over and actually cranking?

@@knurlgnar24 yes it is

2003 Lumina???

Look under passenger side along frame rail, half way twixed tank and engine.

Not sure what you are asking exactly but your vehicle is a W body.

Not usually because it is hard on rubber, but assuming the seal is silicone it works well.

Does it run fine at idle and during mild acceleration? What year and model?

yes runs fine till i push on the gas harder than normal say on an uphill. 99 buick lesabre 3.8

hmug tv It makes me think MAF or fuel pump. The fuel pump can be checked with a fuel pressure tester on the shrader valve on the fuel rail. It would need to be checked at heavy throttle and at idle. The tool is around $20, but you can probably rent one for free from the local auto parts store. Check for kinks/damage to the fuel lines on the undercarriage too. You could try cleaning the MAF with electrical cleaner first since it's an easy first step. To check the MAF you'd need a more sophisticated scan tool. If it ends up being the fuel pump or clogged pickup screen from something in your tank I have a video on replacing the fuel pump on one of these vehicles - not a fun job. Search for 'GM H body fuel sending unit' if you're interested.

those are the next steps im taking, gonna clean the MAF, fuel pressure gauge is 112$ to rent so itll be a while before i can test that. ill let you know what i find out.

Did you ever find the cause of this problem....my Buick is doing the same thing ?

dielectric grease would be much better, no doubt. Most people have WD-40 on hand without needing to purchase anything and it's better than nothing.

mrmagniffy take intake manifold off.