You're welcome. I just picked up a couple more Kubotas - a GR2110 and a B1750. To my disappointment, they both have the same permanent magnet alternator so I'm getting the impression most of Kubota's smaller tractors (

Thanks for watching!

Indeed. The engines are essentially bullet proof. I did have some accumulated water on the line running to the filter and pump from the fuel tank that caused a plug when it was cold. Melted the plug with a hair dryer, drained the water off and was back in business. It is a no brainer if you can pick these up for less than $800 in my opinion and if I see another I will grab it. It has been my "go to" tractor for pulling small trailers around because if its simplicity, reliability, and decent pulling capability. I also picked up a GR2110 for what I considered to be a reasonable price but I paid much more for it but it only had 215 hours on the working meter. Again, the engine is bullet proof as usual. The rest of it I'm not so sure about. The transmissions are known to have problems and mine came with the PTO non-working which I fixed and upgraded along the way to hopefully prevent it from happening again. The 4wd and power steering are nice compared to the G5200 but I'm betting the G5200 will achieve a much longer service life from a drive-line standpoint.

@@Ilikeurtractor can I contact you directly on telegram or messenger?

Yes, the one sitting on the fender was the old external regulator for the original permanent magnet alternator. The new alternator (if you use the same one I did) has a built-in regulator so I would just disconnect the old one completely. Once you remove the original permanent magnet alternator and its two wires you probably don't really have to disconnect the rest of the wires at the regulator as it won't be doing anything at that point anyway. Then you can just leave it installed if you'd like. The only reason I removed mine at all is because I initially was just going to replace the regulator and leave the original alternator on it but then found this was a much better option for me..

Thanks for watching. That’s a great question because technically the wiring should be increased in size if it was sized from the factory to be just capable of the original alternator (which would probably make it much thinner than it actually is). From a practical standpoint the alternator will not generally be at full amps for very long (although it could be depending on battery conditions and what accessories you’re running) so it is unlikely you’ll overheat the charge wiring by this change. Certainly doubling the wire gauge size won’t hurt anything but I did not do this and haven’t experienced any issues and have used the machine as a battery charger with jumper cables for other equipment having a dead battery with no issues. I’d have to investigate the electric fan conversion more to understand why it might be overheating now. Initial thoughts are if you removed the belt that operates the water pump too that would cause overheating of course but I’d have to go look at how it’s done as I can’t remember as I’m writing this. I don’t see why that conversion wouldn’t work though as long as the fan is spinning the correct direction (same direction as factory fan moves air of course would be best) and the temperature switch activates the fan correctly (unless it is running all the time.). Also that the fan moves a similar volume of air as the factory fan over a similar area of the radiator. Let us know what you find out and thanks for kicking around other ideas!

Which way does the fan go does it pull or push makes a huge difference u might already know this.

@@jamesbenton1346 The same from the factory. It pulls air from the rear.

@@jamesbenton1346 Generally fans push air onto the engine and, in doing so, pull cooler air across the radiator. I don't recall seeing it any other way. I do find the Kubota setup with the radiator in the rear of the engine a little unusual compared to other machines I've seen but the air flow direction across the components remains the same.

The box shows Part no. 12179 with a barcode of 110675.. Might be difficult to find this exact one now as these Chinese parts seem to come and go under various part numbers. Shouldn't be too hard to find a similar one though.

Looks like the exact listing I bought mine from is no longer available. Try "KUBOTA 16231-64010" it appears to be dimensionally the same. The battery post is slightly longer but that's all I notice and if it causes a problem you can always cut it shorter. Obviously over time pricing and model numbers can change but this one is $50 shipped at the time of this writing.

don holden it should. You may not even have to do the modification I explained depending on your engine’s mounting. I have installed the same alternator on a Kubota GR2100 garden tractor/mower without needing to cut the alternator mount. All of the 3-cylinder D series engines I have seen will accept this modification. I don’t know about the 2-cylinder engines but it is likely this would work there too.

ilikeurtractor , ok I got the alternator and it has one prong and an L shaped plug..... how do I hook it up

don holden if it’s the same wiring as in my video I believe I explained it in there. But I thought there are two spade connections, not one. Can you post a link to the alternator you bought so I can see what you have?

ilikeurtractor It has the 2 that your talking about. I just forgot you said how to hook them up. The video is spot on.

Thanks for watching! Because I have only done one of two of hese and it's been a few years I'd recommend deferring to the wiring instructions for the alternator which hopefully comes with it. Not all alternators have the same wiring but if the alternator you're getting is the same as the one in my video then I would wire it up the same as in my video. Sorry I cannot be of more help.