Thank you for the advice! I'll look into making the 220v upgrade!

Hello there, everything I read online about converting the saw to a 220 is that it's nearly impossible. Can you shed some light on this for me bud? I really want to convert mine but can't find any info.

@@gman4999 I got on Laguna's website and ordered their 220 volt switch for the Laguna saw and then installed it there was no issues at all self-explanatory Plus the wiring diagram is inside the saw cover on the motor

LMAO @ phase 1 and phase 3. Please don’t discuss anything electrical. You obviously know nothing about it.

Do you still feel this way? I really want to upgrade my 1980's unisaw in favor of this saw, but would absolutely go with the 220v mod.

Thank you! I am left handed so it makes things a little more challenging in the shop! Thankfully I have not had any serious situations in the shop, and I try not to stand behind the blade. Do you still work in the shop? What types of builds are your favorite?

Yes that doesn’t make sense. I think his problem ripping the oak had a lot to do with the blade he used. He said in a different comment that he uses a cheap combination blade well if you are going to rip a piece of hardwood like that oak piece he should put in a good ripping blade.

It makes sense why you would want a thinner riving knife when you use a thinner kerf blade, but all my blades are thicker or as thick as my knife. I have a couple high dollar blades from ridge carbine. The good thing about those is you can have them sharpened for a fee plus shipping but the con is the cost to have them sharpened is usually more than an Irwin blade. So for this holiday season and with the high demand for cutting boards and other things, I have been using Irwin mid grade blades. They are nice and hold up for a few weeks. Once the wood starts to burn or chip, it's time to clean the blade. If that doesn't help, I usually change the blade. Hopefully this helps my Friend. No matter what tools you're working with, always keep safety first.

I'm using just a cheap blade from Lowe's. It's a multi-purpose blade I believe it's DeWalt

I have had it for two years and haven't had to readjust the fence. Though I am a seasonal wood worker and don't use my equipment as much as some shop owners. There is a way to make those adjustments under the cast iron table top. Check out stumpy nubs table saw adjustment video he has a lot of good information on this topic.

@TheMcKeelsWoodworks ya it's not that the fence slowly comes out of adjustment over time but the far end with swing in slightly when I clamp the fence down. I forget the term they use for that but I'll check out that other video you mentioned. Thanks!

Good point. Personally,I haven't had any situation where I had wished their was more space. But I will say it's a little difficult to cut wide stock such as full sheet of plywood. But on most saws without an in-feed table, it's usually challenging. When I upgrad my shop in the future. I'll build a larger lable around the saw.

Well, the motor has power, but this saw would not compete with for instance the Saw stop 5HP table saw. But in its class of cast iron table saws this motor is reliable. And according to many other people the saws power will increase if it is converted from 120 to 220v. At the time of this review, I had not made the electrical conversion. But I hear it makes a huge difference. Sorry for the confusion!

Haha! Thank you for the good knowledge! I could definitely use your experience moving forward. I'll look into the conversion. I believe I have a few extra spots in the box.

@@TheMcKeelsWoodworks I know that you will see and enjoy the definite difference in power and ease of cutting with going 220v. You now have a high quality table saw, so now you want to use a high quality blade to go with it. Believe me, a high quality blade also makes a big difference.

What blade would you recommend?

@@TheMcKeelsWoodworks ridge carbide is what I run and they are by far a wonderful cutting blade and the carbides are big they say you can get up to 20 sharpenings it depends if you destroy your blade or not keep them clean I clean mine all the time

I haven't noticed this on my saw. I can access it from the front of the saw. Perhaps the plastic tool holder was installed backwards on your saw, can it be flipped?

@@TheMcKeelsWoodworks Do you have the Fusion 2 with the digital readout?

Hmm, sound seems to be working on my end. I'll look into this.

@@TheMcKeelsWoodworks No it was on my side for some reason I couldn’t get it to work I got it working now thanks anyways

You're right! If it wasn't for the black Friday discount I would have gone with the Grizzly too. But at that time Grizzly was 3-4 month lead time, when Laguna was 4-5 weeks. And I am quite impatient!!! But overall the Laguna has served me well. Let me know how your Grizzly turns out!

The grizzly will only get 2hp if plugged on 240v, same as this saw if plugged on 240v.

@@ugosmith7529 That makes sense. I should've thought about that.

@@ugosmith7529 The 220v is an upgrade that you have to pay for with the Laguna...

@@bank80 worth every penny the saw runs much better

Haha good point! Happy building!

@@TheMcKeelsWoodworks I have an old Steel City with 1.75 HP. Bought it used, was wired for 220. I changed it back to 110. It cuts fine. 1.75 HP can cut 2" white oak on my saw, and I'm sure it will on the Laguna with a better blade. I might update to the fusion 2 since my saw is old (no riving knife and bad dust collection). thanks for the review. And to some of you guys hung up on HP and proper electrical lingo (I think we all knew what he meant), "educate" yourselves on punctuation when you comment.

Yessir! Taiwan. Apparently they have really high quality standards for their exports. I can't complain. Definitely 10 times better than Chinese manufacturing