I hope this helps. The engine block was donated by Uncle Tony. The bearings I pulled out of my block were standard. When I was approached to do the project, I was told to find a 318 car, pull the engine, don’t worry about anything other than stripping it, putting the parts in a bucket, and bringing it down. Anything that needed to be replaced, he had in stock. I expressed concerns about the block, cranks bearing surface and thrust service, and heads. He said he would prep a block beforehand, and check out the other stuff once I got down there. He checked out the crank, gave it the ok, and then assembled the rotating assembly. The oil loss came from excessive wear on the crank in the ball park of .07, and the thrust surfaces were wiped out. I ultimately replaced the crank with a 10 under 340 crank, and it has awesome oil pressure. Unfortunately, the cylinders are out of round of hiring for excessive low by on the passenger side. I will do a video about it in the spring, right before I replace it with the 440.

Videos that's where the money is at.

Doing wrong keeps the content alive........I used to watch SniderTron3000 and would scream sometimes. But that's the game

This! Never put all the torque on one bolt! pull them both down evenly and slowly. Also tap the main bearing caps down before you start torquing to make sure both sides are sitting flush in the block. You are scaring the hell out of me!

I'm glad someone said it before me. I was quite literally cringing at that!

@@markszychulda6194 yeah and why didn't he plasti gauge the mains when he built it the first time. He also checked the hardest cap to get to or he could've rolled the engine over to make that one easier. Rookie but i got to give him credit he is out there doing it instead of laying around being lazy.

lol I was thinking man what the hell are you doing? I'd suggest at least reading a rebuild manual.

@@Flowtester1 ya always.

50 years of it lol

Buttfuckery hahahahahahahah im fuckin dead

@@LunarOutlawsGarage - 50 years of buttfucking aaaaaaaaaaaahahahaha

@@tommylyeah That is now one of my favorite words.

No doubt.

just wondering. are you from Pottersville NY

@@josephshields2057 no, illinois

Suorised tony didn’t measure the bearing clearances the first time ?

Nick Anagnostou that being said brother remember it’s your Motor go with your gut on doing what’s right to fix it good luck brother can’t wait to see her run

@@Terminxman the whole things was not an "engine build" ...it was closer to a a cluster fuck

Good comment on torquing down bearings. Basic shop craft is often overlooked but it's the little things like measuring before torquing that can save a lot of time and head scratching.

Normally you don't want to cut a crankshaft more than is necessary to clean it up. That is why you might cut the main and rod journals to different under sizes especially if it is only one journal that has more damage than the others. If you don't get the right size bearings as in this case you will have low oil pressure which will eventually wreck the engine beyond repair. Good engine builders will carefully measure all clearances before assembling an engine to prevent this from happening. That is why rebuilding is such an expensive proposition as opposed to purchasing a factory built crate engine.

I dig that man

Tony’s and idiot, nick is the closest thing there is to a master mechanic

I will drag this across the finish line if I have to lol

Unfortunately listening to this guy's dialogue and watching the hamfisted wrenching including pulling down bearing caps fully on one side without considering torque loading distortion or cleaning the caps/bearings of oil residue before checking clearances with the plasti-gauge or even knowing what the actual bearing clearances should be? A perfect how not to do it video.

Thanks my dude

I want to tell you something if I'm going to help somebody assemble a motor I'm going to do what I can to make sure it's right

Tony should have known better. I get risking shortcuts on a known, good- running engine that you just want to freshen up. You can hone, re-ring and replace bearings, but somebody's crusty high mileage motor? ... well you see what happens. Ditto for not checking clearances. Never assume a molested engine (non-original gaskets) is what it seems. Glad you got it worked out, but there are certain steps and checks you cannot shortcut unless you accept that a failure has high potential as a result.

3... Dont listen to uncle phoney

Thanks was trying something new 🤙

holy shit xD

must be an aussie thing because ive had that happen with torque values ,things go hinky in the conversion ,had it happen on a clevo i was doing

Ty man

You CAN pull them apart without a mic, especially if you're getting everything machined. However, you NEVER put them together without checking clearances on EVERYTHING!!! Plastigage is your friend! So is a good mic. I've built things like a bone stock straight 6 with just plastigage before, and everything was fine. Anything that will EVER be run hard gets checked with a mic, then plastigage EVERY journal (with everything clean and dry) during assembly just to make sure. It's a LOT easier to find clearance problems BEFORE you button it all up and drop it in to something!

He listened to Uncle Tony... He was the one who knows better :)

Putting a 318 together carefully and cleanly would be sacrilege. It would be seen as an incredible waste of time to do that for a lowly 318. Those engines were made to be abused and disrespected, even worse than the Chevy 305 or the earlier 307. They are seen as boat anchors, virtual garbage, one of the worst V8's ever crapped out by a factory. It's the Rodney Dangerfield of car engines.

Yeah, I have a chart somewhere with the various undersize marking codes but I can't find it right now. There can single journals undersize, or all at .001 or .010, even lifter bores had a marking code to indicate an overize lifter bores on some engines. *THAT* would be a pain since oversize lifters are very rare. I know that the later Magnum 318 and 360 cranks are marked with obvious codes like M1 or R5 to indicate a single 0.001" undersize on those specific (eg. Main 1 or Rod 5) journal numbers, and there are different piston codes like A/B/C/D/E which are 0.0005 increments over standard. I have a spare 1984 360 (which is now .030 over) which originally had one of those weird combinations, it has things like AABD and DAEB stamped on one of the pads by the deck to indicate it had different sized pistons installed in the various cylinder bores. I had never seen that before. I don't recall if I ever checked to see if it had a sequence number that matched the VIN on the van it came out of, I suppose it could have been a factory re-man rather than first-production from the factory, who knows? It was the first time I had ever seen that, but this was like 25 years ago. :) haha The engine that is in the van right now is the one out of our original '78 van, which has no sequence number, so either they forgot to stamp it, or maybe it was a warranty replacement engine or something... another "who knows". :)

Only us true mopar guys know this 😂

Me too very greatfull to Nick and John for being a phone call away

That's right Tony didn't know that

@@simoncochran9824 Tony never said he was a proud.

Good catch ,in reality that green plasti guage should not even show a crush with that clearance. Glad he got the diag done. Can't wait to see it rip.

Same thought , where is the brake cleaner and compressed air

And did he have the cap in the register??..

how about a a micrometer and bore gage? Uncle Tony's WHOLE machine shop hit the floor when his dial caliper fell off the bench ...LOL

@@prowirxenginestands2088 ...you got it,a vernier ,a mag base and indicator(s) and a set of 1"-6" mics arent a fortune and well worth the money if you build more than one engine

Yup unfortunately When Tony put the rotating assembly together I should have been paying more attention to what he was doing. But live an learn

@@LunarOutlawsGarage 'Haste makes Waste'. Just one of countless maxims that get shared in moments like this. I get the 'spirit' Tony was operating in. And when everything goes your way, you can get away with overlooking some steps, but in engine building, you cannot skip critical tasks like mic'ing the journals, and snap gaging the bearings IF you don't wanna get bit by Murphy. Makes me so TIRED just thinking of the road miles to and from Nashville and then dealing with the asses at the border crossing of Canada (I have done that every time we test vehicles in Alaska, and I can write a damn book about the ways the border agents can be either, your best friend or your worst nightmare), then the roadmiles to Nick's, then getting kicked in the sack, by Murphy, then drive back home and find out something that FIVE extra minutes spent using a dial caliper while the crank was standing on the floor in Nashville. GAWD. The misery. HASTE, MAKES WASTE. Graham Heath, an excellent old mechanic at C&H Machine in Madison Indiana back in 1974, let me sweep the floors and take out the garbage and he didn't run me out of the shop when they were assembling the V12 engines for the Miss Madison Hydroplane. I was eight years old when Graham showed me how to read the graduations on a Starrett Micrometer, as he used it to mic the supercharger bearing shaft. By 1984, I was in vocational school learning from more old guy mechanics, building a 318 for my Senior project. I watched the WHOLE build of this series, and I cringed at some of the cigarette smoking bravado.... but I smiled BIGGLY at allot of Tony's comments because he too, has traveled those roads. Each 'House' you look at, in the Performance and Racing Industry,,, has evidence, of the degree of excellence they adhere to. Holman and Moody. Sox and Martin. Petty Enterprises. Smokey Yunik. Shirley Muldowney. Don Garlits. Bill Jenkins. John Force. Kenny Bernstein. Cotton Owens. Harry Hyde. I have pictures of many of those people in their element, and luckily, they let me hang out for a time. Tony is a very knowledgeable guy, he's got a STUNNING background in the industry. When you live long enough and pursue your dreams hard enough,,, you get to have some great times like Tony has, and I am humbly thankful for the ones I have been part of. Me and Tony have absolutely never broken bread together, but we have drank beer in the same garage and pit areas over the years. It's good to see him sharing his knowledge with pups like you and John. Don't pay too much attention to the haters. They never make a real difference in this world. Focus on brotherhood and goodwill. You will go far, if you do. Can't wait to see the 318 back on the dyno for the proof to be put into the pudding. And a little part of me wants to see Tony's slap together 318 prove some of the smartaysses in the comments section wrong.

You got it man, next time it’s on the channel will be at Nick‘s dyno

Any real car guy can tell, Uncle Tony is someone you pay attention to. You can't fake his kind of knowledge.

@@greasemonkey258 really Tony should have known better he's just worried about slapping together and making content

Yup

Got lucky. I definitely take for granted that I work on engines that are so new the last hands that in them was the manufacturer

If it spun a main bearing you can be certain that all the mains were align bored, not to mention that the big ends of the rods might have been resized. All those clearances pile up and need to be checked during the buildup. "Standard" bearings only work with stock manufacturers tolerances...... "10/10 cranks are commonplace, but bearings for a 10/10 crank in a align bored block that's now 10 over....those you'll have to look for or order....not off the shelf items at most parts stores.

Me too man real numbers this time. 🤘

Awesome.. Old School knowledge for old school engine's.. Mopar Everyday and Everywhere..

Me too I am glad it’s not a cracked block. And I’m glad that Nick was willing to continue working with me to get this thing across the finish line🤘

@@LunarOutlawsGarage Everything UT touches fails... bottle rocket cant even run 20 seconds... let alone 10... rofl...

Never trust what was in a 50 year old engine lol. But yes always use a plastigage. I take for granted that I work on engines way way newer and have been untouched from when they cam off the assembly line. I know every time I have hit my builds plastigage they have always been right on the money. They are a cheep and easy tool that will ball park it very quickly.

it was Somebody's fault...2 men construct an engine no one checked clearances...whose at fault?

@@billcat1840 the guy who said he never uses plastiguage...tony. look, i dont use it either, but i check my stuff all over, mic journals, look for maltese crosses, etc...

And how big was the hammer that he used to put it together? lol

I am ready for the numbers this time around

@@LunarOutlawsGarage I'm not forgetting that the limited pull Nick did, yeilded 20 more horse power than the factory rating of the 318 in 1969.

Doesnt matter in his case, the bearing wasnt even touching the crank!

I am always happy to help he is a good friend

No The adjustable valve train is too expensive so I went with the route that Nick suggested and get the appropriate valve train for the engine. I’m gonna be going through a few more things in the engine to make sure everything‘s ready to go. The next time it goes to nicks I want to be 100% ready I don’t wanna waste his time. There will be a video from where we leave off now to what numbers we get from Nick’s Dyno😁🤙

Turning one or the other on cranks happened a lot back in the old days. It saved you money and most good machine shops would tell you if you could get away with a polish.

@@LunarOutlawsGarage You just need the right length of pushrods.. you don't run "adjustable" pushrods in an engine.. you just use them to check the length you need to get your lifter preload right. I would say geometry but with a rocker shaft setup you can't adjust the geometry as simply as by pushrod length. You can buy pushrods in any length you want... start with stock and get one adjustable pushrod to figure out what you need. Like a stock LA 318 is 7.5" pushrods... the Comp 7702-1 is adjustable from 6.8" to 7.8". Buy one of those and figure out what you need.

@@LSswapGarage1 they literally sell adjustable pushrods. they work too. better than $600 rockers.

@@frigglebiscuit7484 Or you can "literally" measure the length and put in a proper pushrod... this isn't hard. There is absolutely zero reason for the existence of an "adjustable" pushrod beyond measuring for the correct length. It doesn't need to change while running lol.

yup I take for granted that I work on much newer engines that have not been opened up. But I Plastigage when it is going together. I have never had this happen, but I am glad it was not a catastrophic. Tony put the rotating assembly together, and in a life afterwards he said he has them down there but doesn’t believe in using them or something along those lines.

@@LunarOutlawsGarage with thousands of people watching; wasting Nick's time; I gotta say, pretty stinkin' catastrophic. Basically, take a junk engine and waste hundreds of dollars of labor.... to get a junk engine. But, hey, you "saved" on machine shop!! Did you actually check the connecting rod ends - could need resize. I imagine someone asked, they ever heard of a ridge reamer? Once you do all the tear down labor, sure worth it to do the job right, or just don't bother! Glad I could help, but, man, that was painful to watch. Of course, to each his own, it was at least "theater", and some people enjoyed it. Teaching moments are great, I just prefer them from people who, like, actually know what they are doing; no offense. I have certainly had my own share of very disappointing blunders over the years building engines. I learn from 'em all.

Hey, you didn't have to watch at all !? It was a strange kind of amazing spectacle, I just wanted to see "what next". Maybe you have a winning formula ?

I'm guessing some home builder just polished the crank at some point, rather than having it turned. That would explain why it's only a little loose and not stamped. I'll bet 10 under bearings will be too tight, he's probably going to have to get the crank turned.

I have worked on a TON of engines that had cranks of various undersize journals and very RARELY are they stamped. You have to mic them yourself to find what size they are.

@@livewire2759 You used the words "guessing, a little, I'll bet, and probably." Let's hope he mics everything and none of those words will be needed at all.

@@ronjones-6977 LOL Yeah, let's hope so for his sake. All I can do is guess, the ability to know for sure is all his.

Yes i have had cranks done and they stamped the crank. Main size and rod size on the rear throw of the crank

Next video with the engine will be from this point forward and will end at nicks

Oh, Nick cut open the filter. It was loaded with crud and metal. The original plan was to get the correct length pushrods, slap on the valve covers and dyno it. Now he’s gotta yank the crank it and mic it. He’s not going to tear it down and clean it because he wants to see how it runs the way it was slapped together. Meh. I think that ship sailed, but what the hell? It’s not like he dropped $3,000 on a hemi block. Oh wait...he dropped $7,000 already.

@@southjerseyjim5049 7000 where ? My point was that it was already run with metal and crap in it so it's a little late to worry about it now

You got it Oscar. 🤘I have talked to a few people about what can be done just to knock anything left in there. Next video will be from here to it crossing the finish line

Oscar Walton He spent about $1,200 in parts and the rest were travel expenses and customs fees. He added it up and going back and forthe to Tennessee and Canada cost him about $6,000 all told.

Oscar Walton Also, the crank appears to have suffered no damage from the oil contamination. So, the engine has sort have been flushed during the break in. Brian is going to get as much junk out of the engine as possible and run it.

now he blames Lunar 100%... I guess the person in charge should have busted out some plastiguage? who doesn't plastigauge an old engine? it takes 5 minutes?

Phony Tony!!

Always forward never back.

He torqued the bearing caps fully at once one side each!!! This motor is gonna fail

This is true I'm a Auto Machine shop owner in Connecticut and I know at least 1 time in my life I did see a SB Mopar with standard rod bearings and .010" under mains right from the factory.

Lol trust but verify live and learn

I take for granted that all the engines I ever mess with are so new that they haven’t had time to be butchered lol

@@LunarOutlawsGarage the new ones you have to watch to see if the head is warped . The old ones the heads could be cracked the gides could be taped & will only be ok for half the life they should be if you spin a bearing they will turn down the crank rather one or all so if one it's a real pain . You bore all the cylinders for balince but some just do one and it's just nuts

Doesn't matter on already used bearings it's done meshed in as much as it's going to so it doesn't hurt anything

Mike over at weird beard is doing a phenomenal job looking forward to get my hands on the 59

my old man has a gnarly set tools, We can fix it!

I didn’t see him comment on the video

@@LunarOutlawsGarage he made it clear that the build was not a fail and that he was not responsible. ok, I do not make anything big out of this either. I just suggested to tony that the effort was a learning experience and let it go at that. not a win and not a complete fail either.

So, not responsible if it grenades, but will he claim victory when it dominates at Nick’s? We all had our hands in it .

@@LunarOutlawsGarage I do not assume that. I just got the message that he did the best he could as part of the build and was not personally responsible for the job not going as expected.

@@LunarOutlawsGarage I am unclear on this issue,, is Tony not responding to your calls now?

Ty

Jim gee my dude how are you

@@LunarOutlawsGarage im doing fine man all is good , been keeping busy like a bee but not makin much honey lol im enjoying your content on the 318 build your moving along quite nicely

when you left nicks a couple hours later the purple gtx showed up on a trailor from albany , holy cow shes a bute

Lol I bet it is really awesome. Nick will get it set for him and he will enjoy it 😁🤘