Nick is a mopar legend

Lemme jump in here and help Brian out with these comments. He's not as technically versed as Nick and I are, so this may make things a bit clearer. First, pushrod length. Nick and I compared notes on the phone yesterday and came to the same conclusions. The lifters Comp supplied are the AMC style. I measured them against the stock Chrysler lifter yesterday ( Several examples of each) and on average the AMC style lifter has a pushrod cup .025 lower than the OE Chryslers. If the engine had been assembled with the original thickness steel shim head gaskets (which are no longer available) the stock length pushrods would have been OK. As it stands, the stock length pushrods provide zero preload. Two of the 16 were about .020 shorter than the others (production tolerances) and those were the ones tapping. This brings us to the oil issues. The AMC style lifter oils the rockertrain through the pushrods...OE Chryslers do not. The engine uses solid pushrods. Because there was no preload on the lifters, oil was free to leak from between the lifter cup and the base of the pushrods. In other words each lifter/pushrod contact point represented an internal oil leak. A high volume pump would have overcame this issue for the most part. Nick had no SB pumps on hand and it was late in the day when the oil issue was found. Ignition Timing. When nick timed the engine, he did it at 32 degrees total at 2000 RPM. We agreed that 32 would be about optimum here. What nick didn't realize is that I had NOT curved the distributor. It had stock advance springs in it, that would not bring full advance in until past 3500 RPM. When they made the two aborted pulls, the engine was seeing approximately 46 degrees of spark advance...WAY no bueno for this thing. To Nicks credit, he cut the pulls at 5000 rpm which saved this thing from going into severe detonation. Things could have gotten real ugly! Numbers. The two pulls were cut at 5000 rpm. 5000 is pretty much where this combination should start to make power, and peak should have been between 6200 and 6500. As it was, 4600 was peak at 250 horsepower and then it dove hard. That's where detonation took over. That's also where we got lucky and Nick pulled the plug. With more time and a thorough run in/break in, all of these issues would have been found and corrected...these things are par for the course. But, because time was EXTREMELY limited, this is how things worked out. Brian will regroup, Nick and I both have his back, and we'll get to see real results as soon as it's practical to do so. My prediction? 350 horse at 6300. We'll see how it rolls.

This all sounds so familiar. I played the same games with valvetrain issues on my old 318 back in the early 80's. But by the time we got things right, I knew that engine inside and out. I wish I had a place to work on stuff now. Oh well, I guess I'll have to settle for watching you thrash it. Btw, I used to keep an old POS block in the backyard with a sledgehammer right next to it. Whenever we got frustrated beyond hope.......just head out back and beat the shit out of that thing for a few minutes. It was the ultimate way to mellow out. That, and a few six-packs. Enjoy the journey. The only thing you usually have left are the memories. (and the tickets)

Nick is just an awesome human being. It's just that simple.

Lunar! Thank you, thank you, thank you for making the trek to Montreal! Much respect! Your tenacity and enthusiasm are exactly what we need! Its been an awesome project to watch thus far and I can not wait for 2.0. Have a safe return!

Good job Lunar hope you learned from Nick and ol Tony too,what a great learning experience....

Awesome! I enjoy all your positivity, good going to see it all the way through.

Bless you man for saving another classic and a Mopar also makes it more cooler.

G'day Lunar. Looks like it was an awesome day. Can't wait to see the 318 up and running. 👍

Love this video for the other reason of Behind the scenes at Nicks Garage! Thank you LunarOutlaw for the video. And you are in good hands with two well versed Mopar Builders

Congratulations on a Mission Accomplished.

I'm glad it wasn't as bad as could have been. Now you can look forward to getting it repaired and back in your car.

Thanks for chiming in Tony...us noobs need all the info we can get. Keep on plugging Brian...it'll get better!

Thanks can't wait to see what it pulls

The Mopar 318's are pretty much bullet proof and you can waken them up, but if you want try Crower Cams and Rhodes Lifters combo, they'll give you really good vacuum at idle and good power up to 5500 rpm. Check with Crower on what lift you need for your applications and they'll not disappoint!

I sure miss my 72 Sebring Plus. It had a lotta rust, but it was arrow straight and had a strong 318. A guy made me an offer I couldnt refuse, and I needed the dough. I'm happy to say he's fixed it up really nice.

Do some more tiding of the garage and you'll find somewhere to put the stand ;) Sorry that the dyno day didn't go to plan but I think we all learned something from this ! Cant wait for Part II

This was a fun thing too watch and follow along with. In a way I am kinda happy it didn't work on the first time, because now we get to go on to round 2😀😀😀👍

Mad props for your effort.It will make victory taste that much sweeter!

Nick, Uncle Tony, Brian dont listen to the haters! This was an awesome project. Very interested in what caused the low oil pressure. Motor sounds great!

Glad I got to see this. Thank you. Hopefully the engine stand is ready to go.

Thumbs up to Nicks STAFF!! Really tore it apart fast.

That little 318 sounded awesome

U went to the right man. Nick is 1 of the v8 gods

Tell ya what Lunar... Since it didn't go well on the engine dyno, I would like to pay for you to put it on a chassis Dyno once you get it in the car and the bugs worked out... We will find a Chassis Dyno Shop near you and make it happen if possible!! I know how things can go on the Dyno and it is frustrating to say they least... I look forward to the future! Andy Unity Motorsports Garage

Holy crap! Nick used a power tool!

At least she runs man!!! Sounds good too!! You'll get it sorted out!!

wow that is so cool being there in person then watching it on lunaroutlaws garage on you tube ,,and getting to see my award winning mustang and the fury on your channel ...bryan was a real treat spending the day with you it was alot of fun , cant wait to see that 318 scream on the dyno in the near future

Excellent !!! I have no doubt you'll get it sorted this is par for the course with these types ofbuilds. It's a minor issue. IMHO the motor sounded strong

Yeah Tony really helped you out

Sorry to hear/see about the issues with the engine. It sounds pretty healthy! I would say with all the issues fixed, properly tuned with headers, it would put out about 364 or so HP & somewhere around 390 FT LB of torque. As Nick said a Melling oil pump, that's what I always use & never had a problem with them, not say anything bad about the other brands. I wish you the best with it & look forward to seeing what numbers it pulls.

Awesome man

Now you know what's needed should be really good once you do the changes can't wait to see the final results

She fired up nice and quick.

Hello Brian... just subscribed to your channel... love too see you turning wrenches, getting dirty an making videos with no camera help. Keep up the hard work..Bless you.😀

Bryan. You have many comments to read. Join the club.

That’s why they call it a dyno test! To check for issues. Good luck and keep the videos coming

When you head up to Nick’s again, I am about 4 hr south of Montreal in Vermont. Lots of Mopars in the area including a B-body in my garage. I’ll even buy dinner.

I really hope An look forward to you taking it back up to nicks again to do another dyno run so we can see what it runs for horsepower an torque etc.. went this far dont not do it man .. definately fix what ya got to an hope you keep in it an get it back up as soon as you can An not let this thing sit an become another shoved off to the side project .. I really do look forward to see the final results .. I will keep notifications on so to know when your back up to nicks .. 👍

A adventure it is man wow .....but hey part 2 coming soon to be continued .....looking forward to it.....🤙👍🤘

You just need to have Nick rebuild that 318 if you want a good motor. If you want to have good oil pressure it has to be hot tanked or completely dipped in DRx bath for about an hour.

I'm glad you're happy. There is so many issues with that dyno session, I don't know where to start first. Since people on KZfaq (like Facebook) live in a pretend world and have trouble dealing with reality, I'm not going to go into any of them. So congrats on getting it running, lets hope it stays that way.

You can use amc lifters on a la small block only with magnum heads. Plus. Magnum head gaskets. Use ford or chevy roller rocker arms and and use a push rod checker.

You gave it a hell of a go. I have been a sub of Nick's for about 1 year. He does a awesome job. Take care and keep on building.

This is a stretch but look on the front ID pad of the engine and look for any symbols such as a diamond or cross shape. I have built two 340s in the past years that were produced with oversized lifters on at least one bore. They are usually .008” oversized. I was able to locate NOS lifters for them. These blocks are stamped with these symbols.

Well put uncle Tony you are the man...!!! Not long ago on KZfaq I saw this fella using a kit and they were adjustable length pushrods with some really soft springs and I’m sure you’re aware of it but for the other readers you basically connect compressed air to the spark plug hole and that holds the valves up while you remove the standard springs and replace those with a really light spring and then you insert this adjustable pushrod mark the top of the valve stem with a sharpie or something and dial in the correct length so the Rocker is pushing smack in the middle of the valve stem probably more applicable to roller rockers I don’t know but nevertheless I wonder if on this occasion that would’ve helped.... Naturally once you’ve got the optimal pushrod length you can order a set or maybe make the necessary adjustments some other way...... I have never seen it before and I really liked it

Awesome video. I hope all 3 ( Nick, Tony, you) of you can meet up sometime.

MV72 melling is the oil pump you want, and mod it for a 1/2 pickup. Lash caps on the valves MAY help if you don’t want to swap lifters.( or just keep milling the heads,lol)

Even though the oil pump will be new, dissemble it and check it for crud, I had one that had machining debris in it.

Sorry things didn't work out like you hoped but, like others have said, the cam is broken in and issues were discovered before bolting it in the car. Can't wait to see it back on the dyno - but probably not as much as you! Good stuff Lunar - ~Q

Hey, yer learnin, kid. Keep it up. I'm about halfway between you and Tony on the knowledge and experience. Probably closer to YOU, lol, even though I'm 55 and been messin with Mopars since 1984.

Good luck!

Lets do it!!! Lunar!!!

at least you know how to fix the problems! before you know it the new oil pump will be in👍 I'm a ford fan so seeing the falcon. from mad max was cool as hell brings me back to the early 80s when i was kid watching it on HBO!

Many good things were learned here by LunarOutlaw's efforts with UTG and Nick's. It's good to think of how many of us have gone through and built an engine, shoving it around and balancing it on a milk crate on the garage floor, then hoisted it directly into the car... only then to find an oil pressure or some other problem. That's when you learn to build some kind of engine run-in stand.

Brian, I just joined you and your channel and I have to say you're in great hands with Uncle Tony and Nick. Looking forward for the next video. I certainly hope all of the debris is out of the engine for you. Don't want to see you have any issues!! 👍👍👍

you ran what you had i respect that!! not many will!

Glued to the video!!💪😊😷

getting ready to Embark in the Journey of my 1990 318 roller Motor give a new guy a fallow back we are slow right now but ill pic it up

Hell yeah bro im liking your channel more and more keep up the great content!! Fan from West Virginia

I can see George for the first time lol

Listening to the audio on the revs, sounds Healthy. Whew.....

Not the results hoped for but. It's a learning process. Done quickly. Now you know where to focus on

Keep up the good work

So what did it make during the 2 aborted pulls? Surprised Nick didn’t have an oil pump in stock for you. Since it sounds like it was going low with rpm wonder if it was an oil drain back issue?

my 318 doesn't drop pressure under high speed load it drop pressure to zero when its hot at idle. I was thinking about restricting oil flow to the rocker arms with a restrictor of some type? Your motor might have a tolerence issue? or a wide open bypass on the oil pump?

Super low budget builds end up costing you more money in the long run. Your time is worth something too, the older you get the more you recognize this...

You need to know why the pushrods are too short. Bad rockers? Did you mill the heads? That's job one.

Nick is a doctor of engines

Sounds pretty good for a 1st start.

Nice Accomplishment

Well the early 318 used adjustable rockers but you needed different push rods to use them. I had a set I was going to try but I couldn't find the push rods or whatever else to use them. I think the wide block 318 used them, maybe the early 273 hi po too. Bad luck on the oil pump but it happens. Pretty sure the pump on those is internal so more work to change out. Take the offer from the guy in here who said he'd pay for a chassis dyno when you get it fixed up.

Just so everyone knows, getting the real mopar lifters is actually pretty difficult. They sell AMC lifters as replacements because they will work in everything with the right length pushrods. Its been this way for at least 10 years. They will work in magnum headed engines with flat tappet cams, AMC's, and stock mopars. Makes it easier for the aftermarket to just make one type of lifter instead of 2. Problem is, you now need to measure the pushrods on every engine to make sure they work.

That old girl is saying, "I wanna go back home to the junkyard."

Hopefully the new pump solves the problem. I want to see the numbers 😁

I love 318, the under dog. Uncle Tony smokes unfiltered cigarettes, he is a nice slob.

I knew that was an uncle Tony engine when I saw it that’s the one nick dyno’d at 239HP if memory serves, I can build 350’s N/A that make almost 1000hp with no power adder

Great job Lunar. A lot of hard work and time spent. First of all, ignore the haters, because there will always be some bench racing know it all that will beak off. You guys did awesome It can be hard doing this as there are so many variables that go into this. You can spend a day of dyno time chasing bugs. Which is what it's for in a way, if it's your dyno. Obviously it's nice to run an engine in on a run stand before making a trip, but that was the deal. Let's be straight, I'm not ripping anyone. I'm only putting this out there as I feel like certain people are gonna make derogatory comments, and I know how much work it can take the day of the dyno test.

I didn't read through the 300+ comments so sorry if it's already been asked. Did anyone prime and verify the oil pressure when the marathon build was done?? Good luck with the satellite, following along. Stay positive! Thanks !

Are you looking oil pressure in the lifter bores with wrong (AMC) lifter? The oil groove on the lifter may be dropping out of the note. Had this issue with an olds once with substituted lifters in a kit. Compare the oil grooves between Mopar and you AMC ones. Just a thought.

Remember when I put A360 crank in A340

It makes it more risky when you mix and match parts from other engines like you did. If you could’ve built a complete engine things would’ve gone better. Especially if you heard it run and it had good oil pressure. In those cases I just inspect the original pump and use it again.

The motor is still a project and the satellite is still a project so I’m happy. Fix it please.🚗🔧❤️

Cam bearings most important for oil pressure.

Finally got it to the Dyno so how was it that you met Nick wish I could meet him someday.

Good news is that its broken in. And you get to dyno it again.

Sweet we loved our visit! Have you seen our video at Nicks? Cheers

Hey! Juzt found out 318 Magnum push rods run oil thru !

I forgot to mention how much I have enjoyed the whole adventure. It was of epic proportions.

The most photographed engine on earth

havnt seen your videos in a min bro hope your doing well

Nick is such a gracious person but I bet he was thinking thanks for wasting my time, I have better things to do and real paying customers to serve. You will probably find that there is an oil gallery plug missing or loose, or too much rod and or main bearing clearance or to much cam bearing clearance. Another shotgun low to no budget build by Tony who measures things with two Popsicle sticks and a worn-out yardstick if he measures at all. The good thing is you should be able to milk this all summer now and have more people feel sorry for you and donate. You usually don't have much luck building engines like Frankenstein's monster using old parts. Anything worth doing especially when building engines is worth doing right. And if you can't afford to do it right leave it alone until you can.

20.03 water leak dripping down the block.

Question ? low oil pressure right, well not to rain on this but , IS IT the oil pump ? I don't remember seeing Tony plastic gauge all the bearings in the build ? also did you install new Cam Bearings in the block ??? Both of these will KILL oil pressure big time.

Go LUNAR!!

Clickedy, clackedy!

If this thing makes power it’s cause of tony head work

One could question why you used offshore junk parts on it, but hey half the point of this project is to learn things right ;)

Great content on u video or live stream

Play this video back. In the beginning of the video you stated you were going to install a "high volume oil pump", ( not a good idea with a 5 QT pan ) However , at the end Nick told you to get a high pressure oil pump !. There is a HUGE difference in the two ! . A high pressure pump is for systems under 7 QTs total in the system, but a high VOLUME oil pump really should have a dry sump system with a unlimited oil supply. If you buy the taller gears of a high volume pump, you will suck that pan DRY before the oil gets a chance to return to the pan ( not good ! ) . My advice , call Nick, ask him for the correct Mellings high pressure oil pump part number for a 318. Do not use a Mellings high volume tall gear dry sump oil pump as they do sell both. Very important ! Also keep in mind that a high volume pump is MUCH more expensive then a more common high pressure pump!