M156 too

I don't think statements like this are fair. The transmission has a huge part in how the car feels and I suspect you are not comparing Apples with Apples. If you had the two on and engine dyno and were comparing, fair enough but in different chassis with different hardware AND software the comparison isn't that valid.

The 177 I had albeit far less power than the 157 was far more responsive to the throttle pedal. The 157 (dynoed stock at 630bhp and 850nm of torque at 36k mile ) feels very powerful all the way to the red line but my modest 500hp c63a 177 engine ran out of ideas closer to the red line. Ofcourse the transmission on the 177 was absolutely brilliant and the set up of the car was far more modern and the car was far more playful

Which one do you think is more reliable on long term?

m177 > m113k > Late 2015+ m278 > m157 The late 278 over the m157 because smaller bore, longer piston skirt and better bore liner. But it still had potentially bent rods throughout m157 and 278 production apparently.

To what did they update the cylinder walls on m278 and from what year? I am looking into buying a cls550 2014 and a little worried about that problem with wall scoring.

@@nerijusjuska645 2014 could have the problematic one. I know they changed it from 2015 onwards. Tbh I'd rather stay away from it if it has the silitec stuff. These problems usually occur around the 100-130tkm mark. The m278 has a couple of other problems too but idk THAT much about it. If you pick a 2015 model you should be fine, they might be a bit more expensive than the earlier models but not having to replace a core engine for 25-30k in a couple of years is worth it imo

@@derLeomitmBenzer been looking for info about this engine, but never saw anywhere written that they updated cylinder walls coating from silitec to anything else. The one i am looking at is 97k km. There arent many options nowadays to buy a low mileage 550 and even this new info makes it harder.

@@nerijusjuska645 yeah its hard to find written down informations. I only know it from mechanic friends a couple of YT videos and stuff i read in forums. And i know the pain of finding the right car, i was suuper happy to find my C63 from a army guy stationed here in germany. Full service record and no hard driving. Here in germany they get f'ed to shit by the usual suspects. Keep your eyes open. Low milage isn't everything imo. If the engine can take it a higher milage one with good service is sometimes better

@@derLeomitmBenzer 25-30k for engine replacement? Thats more than i would pay for the car im buying :D. Here where i live i know that full repair for the engine with sleeves and all that is around 10k euro. of course not sure about the longevity of the repair, havent experienced that myself. Anyway if i am going to buy the car i will do a pre purchase inspection, maybe the mechanic will tell me something. The owner when i met him to inspect the car showed me how the car drives, zero complaints, gears shifting smothly no weird engine noises. nothing to point out wrong about it. just that front of the engine has some oil leaks i didnt like that, and one more thing i didnt like that he has never done trans oil change. And the way he drives showed me that i think the car was abused. well atleast he says that he changed oil every 7k km with liquimoly 10w60.

Interesting observation, but you have to take under consideration very good heat control\efficiency of the radiators. I never had any increase of the temp over 92'C of the cooland and oil never over 104'C in S63 (tuned to 778bhp). It's well protected with heatshield pannels too, it looks like a tunnel to move hot air behind the engine, around the gearbox down the car on the road. In the G63 sometimes oil is 108'C, but i think it's less aerodynamic, hence this temps 🤷🏻‍♂️

That’s the trade off imo. Hot V = way more heat soak. Can’t be good in the long run.

That's THE question

I think he had mentioned in other videos . Literally… STOCK. Maybe exhaust and intakes but after watching all of his videos I’m not touching mine . A tune with Weistec down pipes is enough to bend these connecting rods. My ML63 AMG is the “ performance “ package which comes with 18 PSI Boost from factory compared to the “non-performance “ which is 14 PSI. and I think it’s 560 hp at 540ft- tq ? I believe that’s max for these rods. I was going to tune mine but i don’t want 5,000 miles of “Fun” driving before I have to buy a new engine lol

​@@austinmuncrief252the m177 is fine for 900+ hp

@@austinmuncrief252 perhaps you mean m157? I think the m177 is the best modern AMG engine for “RELIABLE “ big power…. Like 800hp mark is no problem I think based on what I see. Lets see after 150k miles.

M113k pistons are not necessarily much stronger because they are still Hypereutectic (not forged). However, the m113k pistons are shorter for lower compression. The wrist pins and connecting rods are way stronger on m113k vs m113 NA.

@@AMGmeister Will the m113k gudgeon pins fit NA pistons and rods?

From this video, you need to go to m177. But mine 2014 e63s runs solid, it’s approaching 94k miles.

nope, blown at 145k km, south Denmark weather

M177

​@@TasosMoschatos By how much of a margin though? If I want a 700whp engine to put in my w126. Which would you choose between the two?