One of the best penetrating oils I've ever used is home-made. It's simply a 50/50 mix of acetone & either power steering fluid or transmission fluid, whichever one stays in suspension longer. They shouldn't separate. I have poured this mixture in rusted engines and let them soak for a few days then used a breaker bar and some patience to free them up. It's also great for soaking old tools to remove rust. Just don't use it in inclosed spaces. I learned about this stuff in the Navy many years ago.

That penetrating oil reminds me of the joke about a traveling salesman selling it and a skeptic potential customer saying "if that penetrating oil is so good, how's it staying in that can?"

You know Pete I love your wisdom knowledge and specially your story's. You really do put a smile on my face when I sit back and relax watching your videos. I bet your grandkids love listening to you. Really enjoyed this one.

I could watch this man all day he reminds me so much of my Grandfather realyl great videos!!!!

I would like to shed a bit of light on a few things in addition to what you have shared in this video Tubalcain... First is about the anti-seize (best thing since sliced cheese I might add). The different types refer to their temperature ranges that they operate in. Copper-type is higher temp than the standard and nickel-type is higher temp than the copper. They also make a marine grade anti-seize which is for use in environments with excessive water hence "marine" grade, and there is also a food grade anti-size used on hardware within the food industry. I actually use anti-size for tapping holes in all types of metals. It's non-reactive and stays where you put it, doesn't run all over the place like tap magic (I keep a bottle in my truck toolbox at all times). Secondly, I also like the dykem brand layout blueing but I enjoy it in the aerosol type. No fussing about with that gasket found on bottles and I find there's less of a chance getting it on your hands. Lastly, in addition to Kroil and PB Blaster, I find a great penetrating fluid that is cheap but effective is a 50/50 mixture of kerosene and automatic transmission fluid.... I really enjoy all of your videos, very educational and you have similar outlook as I do. Keep employees coming!!

Thank you for the laugh this morning with your comment "I don't like anything new". Just got my Imperial Mfg., Rockford, IL lead set up hammer back that I have had for 43 plus years. They re-cast it for me.

You are too cool. I wish i had you as a teacher in metal shop. Thank you for making videos for us.

Thanks for all the tips Mr.Pete! I have learned so very much.

Thanks for watching. You are the first viewer out of 7.5 million that ever mentioned my Paul Harvey sign out.!!

This guy has a very soothing voice. Like a radio host. I could listen to this dude talk about old stuff all day.

I could sit a listen to you all day.

YOU MENTIONED USING A SMALL TORCH ON SHRINK TUBE. I PREFER AN ELECTRIC HEAT GUN (PAINT REMOVER). WORKS LIKE A HAIR DRYER ON STEROIDS. BEST PART IS NO FLAME. I EVEN MADE A FUNNEL LIKE ATTACHMENT TO CONCENTRATE THE HEAT WHEN NECESSARY. KEN

Tips from an old-timer, Priceless. Thanks for sharing.

Love your comments during your descriptions.Funny as hell!!

Another great episode in your knowledge imparting series Mr. Pete. You have certainly given me more useful tips and shop information then I would have picked up on my own. I sure appreciate it. Whenever I see a new video by you in my in-box, I watch it right away. Thank you again. Eric

I'm seeing a lot of my favorites in here. Thanks for sharing.

Absolutely fantastic video, top tips, great products and a trip down memory lane

Another great video mixing honest to goodness great advice and wisdom mixed with satire. Thanks Mr. Pete!!!

You sir are just a wealth of knowledge. Thank you again.

For some reason, I never tire of watching this one.

Mr Pete another excellent video. In our shop we have one of those Harbor Freight $99 parts washers. It did not work with the water based degreaser they recommended so I swapped it for 10 gallons of varsol. That was back in 1996 and it works great. Still have the same pump on it with no problems. Thank again for the videos.

Thanks for showing all the Products and the short stories !!!

I purchased a farm all a tractor from someone at scrap price. It was a 1948. The engine was froze up on it. I took all the spark plugs out and poured kerosene until all the cylinders were full. I put all the spark plugs back down and left it set for an entire year. After a year I went back took all the spark plugs out and poured more kerosene into the holes and put the spark plug back in. A couple months later I went back and tried to break the engine free. It moved about 4 inches. Not quite at full stroke. I poured more kerosene down through the spark plug holes and filled them all up. Went back just a few months later and she turned all the way over. I am free the oil change that poured more kerosene down into the cylinder holes and put the spark plugs back in. No I did not hook the wires up to the spark plugs. I did all the rest of the restoration while this processed work through. Eventually all the spark plugs broke loose and I actually had enough compression to make her run. It’s a beautiful example of a refurbished Farmall a from 1948. Rescued from the scrap yard. For less than $100.

Thanks, it came from a yard sale, but its my fav. mug. I knew some old salt would notice it!

Thanks Mr. Pete for the excellent video's!

Enjoyed your Favourite Shop Liquids video. I hate rust especially on precision machined surfaces and steel bar stock. I use an Australian product called LANOX in an aerosol to prevent rust on the Lathe and Mill. I have seen water condensed from the atmosphere on a three jaw chuck in the early morning inside the Workshop which turns the LANOX milky. By mid morning the moisture has evaporated off, the LANOX has gone back to its as applied colour and the pristine surfaces are untouched. For bar stock I use LANOGUARD 5000 which is a lanolin grease smeared on by hand . Good for the skin too. Do use WD 40 but for metal cutting. Does NOT prevent rust. The World awaits WD41!

I have to say this is much better than a movie ! You were born to be either in front of the camera or telling stories from behind it. Absolute gems of stories and the products can and things make us all recap on days gone by when things were "different" to what they are now. Which I care not to comment on. What a gentleman you are.

Mr Pete I'm so glad that you've discovered youtube. Too few of my generation(thirty something) and the generations younger than I have not seen real precision work. Machinists were able to hold tighter tolerances with dials and graduation marks long before the invention of the solid state circuit. If my shop teacher was able to convey this type information as well as you I'd probably be in front of a mill everyday!

Love these collection videos!

I got hung up watching to much current events and started loosing my self. Your video popped up and now i am getting my mind back in the saddle. THANK YOU!

Love this vid ,me being just shy of 50 seen most of these lubs at farm auctions and creepy corner's of garages ,and have had at least 90% of them ,Thank you sir for this video!

Excellent story & even better detective work than my own.!!!!!

Your teaching skill are great.

Unfortunately, in my case, the co-worker I am talking about keeps the Plant Manager entertained at the local Moose Cub after hours. No, you just can't make that sort of thing up..... You are right about sabotage. I had to go in and password protect all the machine parameters throughout the shop. The machinists were changing them around right before shift change causing all sorts of problems. There are a lot of dishonest people in this world. Working in a shop brings that to light very fast.

The folks of Water Displacement formula number 40 purchased 3in1 in 1995. When I went thru basic training in 1978 they used 22LR conversion bolts in M16's and the synthetic "Break Free CLP" was the only oil they found that would make the conversion bolts to work good. It is good oil.

Good video again MrPete. Many of the products you have I have been using for years. When you mentioned gasket shellac I was proud to hear you mention Indian Head.

lots of good info Thank You.

Nice video! Suggestion: When splicing O-Rings, don't make a perpendicular cut as this presents the least surface area for connecting the halves. If you lay them side by side and straightened out (not curved), a single diagonal slice across them ( I couldn't say if there's an optimal angle, so experiment) should provide a larger bonding surface area and a longer lasting connection. A similar method is used when splicing audio tape.

Thanks for the great vids. A shop tour would be just great ! Not to be nosy but it would be a real treat to see.

I am of young age and am hoping to become a mechanic and this video has helped me learn of the different stuff for being a mechanic. Thank you for helping me learn.

You are just a wealth of information and entertaining anecdotes. I love watching your videos, and your digressions are sometimes more interesting than the topic at hand. My wife is a high school teacher, and got a good chuckle out of the never-seize story. Keep it up, and maybe consider a video about some of your high school shop teaching experiences! BTW, I'm from Princeton, and usually drive by the Mistic Metal Mover place a few times a week - great stuff they make right here in town.

another great video Mr. Pete !

RE "Out of Date" Loctite. Back in the 80s, Loctite HAD no expiration date. When the US Military decided that ALL chemicals HAD to have an expiration date on them. We had to get rid of every bottle in the shop, so we could ONLY have 'dated' stuff. We were told "If it is liquid, it is good" by Loctite - so everyone got a bottle or 2. Still works BTW, did you ever notice that the bottles are always "gummy" on the outside? It is because the plastic is actually micro-porous in order to let air in!

Boy that brought back some memories, Paul Harvey "Good Day" now the fluids listing info was very informative, I am a rookie on the metal lathe and between you and Keith Fenner I am learning a lot.

Still worth listening to. And I agree with everything stayed. Even the metal tubes. My collection continues.

I have used on of them o-ring kits.. if you clean the rubber correctly it works great. made o-rings for water systems that test upto 150 psi. with no leaks

To stop the oozing from the double spout epoxy things, pull the plungers slightly Works perfectly.

Mr Pete, another outstanding video! I understand the animosity for WD but it does clean the channel lock grips well, you have to give props for their advertising team! Lol I am shocked that you missed my favorite (and I'm sure yours too)... MARVEL MYSTERY OIL!!! Just the tins they came in made them popular with any "old timer". ;)

Yet another educational video from the only machine shop teacher that I've ever had! I've watched this one and several others many times. Love 'em! Mr. Peterson I noticed the USS Iowa ship's coffee mug. Did you serve on her or know someone? My step-Dad served on her.

The Thumb Drive is GREAT !!!!!... Thanks !!!

Thanks--and personal responsibility & common sense.

Cool Tool is a product that I recently tried (tapping fluid), leaves a great finish on lathe/mill work.....really enjoyed the video!

I don't know Heath’s last name but he did the black hopper lids at AAA South ship yard in 1976 and the supervisor Swede also came out of his office red faced and blue eared after heath call him in his office phone! It was lay-off Friday. LOL ;{)----

Very good presentation!

👍Good stuff. Been using aero-kroil for 33 years. Industrial refrigeration. Best stuff ever for my work. Along w/ anti-seize. Just found your channel today & watching some of the older ones. Thanks for doing what you do. True Craftsman & teacher. 👍 (WD40👀=water displacement, fooling the ignorant) 👍

The smell of two things really take me back to my high school days, back in the seventies: "Gunk" brand degreaser and Permatex No. 2. I still use Permatex No. 2 whenever I need a liquid-tight seal that can stand up to heat and pressure. I put a few dabs of it on some washers 25 years ago when I repaired my toilet (the bolts that hold the tank to the bowl). They are still liquid-tight and will probably outlast me.

Love it. Old school rules.

"I don't like anything new." I couldn't agree more, Mr. Pete.

Great video! I'll be buying some of these for my shop. Fun fact, the orange smell in fast orange is there because orange oil is the active ingredient!

Glad to see I'm using many of the same products as someone with experience! I see you have some aircraft gasket maker. I love that stuff much better than RTV for gasketing machined surfaces.

Speaking of tapping fluids. Denatured alcohol works really well on aluminium, especially if you work on a part that needs to be clean from oils or other contaminants as the alcohol evaporates without leaving any residue.

Plastic replaces metal mostly for cost of fabrication and materials! Thanks for your videos, regards, Matthew

They changed ingrefients of tap matic and maybe aluminum tapping fluid back in the 1980's probably took out a hazard chemical. Anyway the newer stuff not nearly as good for tapping. Still have a couple of cans of original tapmatic in my garage. Great vid as always. Shop teachers should show a lot of his great vids to students.

very interesting video, I didn't recognize some of the stuff but loved the stories behind some of the items..

3-IN-ONE was developed in 1894 for use on bicycles. The inventor, George Cole, was hoping to create a product that would lubricate, clean and prevent rust. Those three functions in one product led to the name.

Made me very happy to hear "MSD sheets" (as opposed to MSDS sheets, which is redundant redundant). Apparently you don't want anything chlorinated (like brake-cleaner) near an arc welder.

A house-cleaner I knew used WD40 to clean the scum build-up off glass shower doors and porcelain tubs. Worked great. Even 7 years later, Mr Pete's videos are THE BEST!

I think it's wonderful that you are a little petulant and obstinate related to new things

I didn't think anyone had more liquids then I, but I believe you have me beaten. Good review and very entertaining.

PB Blaster was quite instrumental in the disassembly of my old Farmall Super H. Couldn't have done it without the stuff. The 7/16" bolts that hold the differential cover down were set pretty good after 18 years of sitting outdoors with rainwater collecting in the little recesses for the bolt heads. It's nice that ya don't trip on the bolt heads, but those make a great place to hold water, which seeps down around the bolt shanks over time and ends up in the diff case.

MrPete, have to tell you that I love your videos. I might also recommend boelube (comes in liquid and paste forms) and is great for cutting and tapping aluminum.

Always liked the J. B. Weld golf ball glued to the soda bottle on display in the hardware store .

Thank You Mr Pete

Liquid wrench worked great to help with valve (lifter) tap in an old engine!

Enjoy your tips. Here is one of mine: I use a CRC product CRC226 on many of my tools to inhibit rust, yet not be greasy. Example: I had a cast iron table saw that got rust on the table. I used CRC226 and steel wool to clean it. Whenever I run damp wood over it I just wipe the surface with the product. Trowels get same treatment. It is available at HD in the electrical dept. Unlike WD40, it goes into the metal pores and prevents further rusting. It is also good for electrical plugs.

It's not orange scent added to the orange hand cleaners, it's the solvent d-limonene, which is extracted from citrus fruits that does the cleaning, and just happens to also smell like oranges.

Liked it all.

Really enjoy all your videos, thank you for sharing. It would have been awesome to be in one of your classes at the high school!

Maybe do a video of favorite shop semi solids. Grease, adhesives,etc etc

Just a quick note on O-ring splicing: Diagonal cuts provide greater surface area for joining and also distributes pressure on a greater portion of the circumference of the ring. You just have to line the ends up side by side and parallel to cut matching diagonals on both ends.

Tubalcain I've got to say I agree with you as well that I liked the older things better, and I'm a millennial. I don't normally frequent antique shops but I visited one in Nashville with my wife that had all kinds of the old oil cutting fluids, old tobacco, old hardware and it just feels like things were made with more integrity back then -- especially industrial products.

The Never Seez trick. Nice!

Talking about neverseeze I have a 35 year halve filled can in my garage. Have to stir it up every 6 months or so. Had a young pretty boy appremtice who hated getting his hands dirty so we used neverseeze in a spray can to coat the fingers of his work gloves. Used copper color anti seeze for installing electric heating elements onto stainless steel tanks. If you used pipe dope the brass or bronze on heating element was super hard to unscrew.

AnchorLube is great stuff. I use it on the press bearings, and while tapping.

thanks for the video!

It looks like you included most of my favorites in your video. I wanted to mention that high strength thread lock works well in place of thread sealing tape. Also, the best hand cleaners I have ever used are the type that have ground up walnut shells in them. The orange type cleaners never worked very well for me. Actually, Dawn dish soap works better than GoJo.

For machining aluminum to keep from material build up on tools, I use Crisco Shortening in a can. Works very well for tapping aluminum too.

for breaking loose bolts, a thing called Hagens brew it is 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid. I have never used it but have heard good reports about it. by the way I'm 15 but still know not to drink PB blaster. but I talked to an adult today that put gasoline in a diesel engine . great video as usual

I just use dish cleaner for my hands now since I couldn't find a grit hand soap after I moved. I have a little can of sand next to the sink and i you mix it in when your washing your hands it works great. Can even get paint off.

I wish I had a shop teacher like you in high school

When I worked in a power plant there was of course a lot of corrosion on all of the turbine parts. The older guys that had experimented with different types of fluids to loosen fasteners that had been corroded in place had found that using Coca-Cola, yes the original formula, was better than any other commercially available product. Each time there was a turbine overhaul in the winter a case of Coca-Cola would show up with all the other supplies needed to do the work.

That orange cleaner is actually made from the oil in orange peels. The best hand cleaner is, no joke, BUTTER. It will remove roofing tar, dirty grease, dried paint and oils from your hands without the risks of the petroleum distillates.

I guess with age comes wisdom. I'm 56, and I have learned that all the fluids and liquids that you use are also my favorites. On the subject of anti seize, A combination of Lithium grease and aluminum or led powder is most useful.

I watched my dad in the 60's get a neighbor/friend tractor engine that was seized running. He pulled the head off filled the cylinders with diesel and let it set for a while then used a short chunk of wood and started pounding on the piston edges that was on the down stroke. After a short time he had that engine purring. My dad was not a educated man but was extremely mechanical. A guiness really when it came down to it.

You asked about propane vs. butane. Chemistry was always my love. Propane is 3 carbons in a row with all other available bonds connected to hydrogens. Butane is the same, but 4 carbons long. Butane liquifies at a lower pressure, making it good for plastic cigarette lighters, etc. Propane produces more pressure when liquified and is better for a cold environment. One produces slightly more heat by weight, the other by volume.

I used tap magic alot when i had my first job at a small fab welding shop.

Well, butane burns hotter, but it condenses and freezes at higher temperatures as well. Commercial "propane" however is Liquified Petroleum Gas (LPG) which is a mix of gases - burns just fine for cooking and running a camping lantern If you are doing plumbing these days as a homeowner, use MAPP gas - mixed methane, acetylene, propane and propylene iirc to get a hot enough flame for leadless solders. Oxy-actylene is the way to go if you can afford it...

Thanks for your Tips #91. Using protective gloves keeps the products off your hands. I use black nitrile gloves- they are comfortable and strong.

Over the years that I worked as a machinist I used various oils and fluids when machining, until I went to work at Aerojet. Nothing was allowed in the shop for machining other then coconut oil. The reason being was it could be removed from pieces that were going in orbit or vacuum. Everything else could not be cleaned out of the grains of the metal and would coat items that were going into space. A side benefit was it was better for our health. After all you can cook with it. The prussian blue story brought back something that happened from time to time in a shop I worked at. If there was someone who one didn't like one would put a touch of blueing under the door handle of that persons car.

Have you ever used Cimtap? It's pink in color and sort of like a grease in texture and it is really handy because it works with aluminum as well as all the other typical metals.