just get some inserts for alu and some for steel thats what i would recomend to be honest since it will be easier to get the same finish every time since the cutting edge and high is the same with inserts unlike hss ( yes hss can be sharper witch is better in aluminium but polished alu inserts is also damn sharp ( grabed one a little to hard ones because i was about to drop it and it cut right through my semi thick rubber glove and skin where i didnt feel it )

ballscrews don't have backlash . you have no back lash !!!!

@@rafaeldiegonavarro Ball screws are very accurate but, just like any bearing, they can have backlash in small amounts. The higher tolerance ball screw the less the backlash.

@@mosfet500 i have the standard hobby sherline lathe with regular screws . alot of back lash . but i compensate. i really love the sherline lathe . But man the industrial one is way better !!!! Keep uploading videos man i really like your channel!

It’s called gang tooling. It’s been around since 1970

Thanks. I'm a bit short on time these days so please forgive my brief response, but if you look through my videos you'll find a lot of information. There's a video in there about buying tooling for small lathes.

Thanks.

Hi. Full disclosure: I'm selling mine on ebay right now: www.ebay.com/itm/274507823068?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Not because I don't like the lathe (it's actually a very good little lathe) but most of the work I want to do is too big for this machine. If you need to swing Ø3.25 you should be able to do it (I can double check that this evening) as long as you have the tools protruding beyond the cross slide. The largest chuck Sherline sells is Ø3.1" so you may have a challenge there. These lathes are surprisingly rigid and accurate given their small size. But, they really are intended for small diameter work . If you are working with Ø1/2" or less, you can use the collet closer mechanism to keep feeding stock and kick parts out pretty quickly. Based on the Ø3.25" size requirement of your part, you may need to look at a larger machine.

You are correct. But, it's well worth it!

I do. Naturally, there is a limit to the rigidity of such a small machine. But, I'm sure you will be OK in soft materials like Aluminum or Brass. Possibly steels as well if you use machinable grades like 12L14.

​@@FrancoCNC . Thank you for the reply. Do you do any freelance work? I'm starting a small product business and I'm considering doing the same thing you did. To make a small CNC lathe to run parts for my product, but before I do I'd love to have you try it on yours. I'd of course pay you for your time/materials :) . let me know if that interests you

Yeah, that is a concern. I only ran this at 1500 RPM which is much too slow but it left a nice finish and held size. Some day, I need to make some sort of tube for the bar stock.

@@FrancoCNC do you think glacial rpm may contribute to the material sticking to the inserts? Shorten the stock and run flat out. I would run that job at 3000, in fact if I had a lot to do, I would change the lathe gearing and run at 4000, software won't allow any more than that, what can you get? I thought some Sherlines had 5000 up their sleeve! Finish with inserts normally improves with speed. I find I am sometimes speed limited by HSS drills, but I often ignore them and run at the speed to suit the inserts. Also, as you take the spotting drill to the part for getting the length, why not spot your hole while it is there? By the way, this is the first time I have seen you on camera, twenty years younger than I was expecting!

@@smallcnclathes You are correct - the carbide probably would work better at a higher RPM. Good call on the spot drill - that would save some time. So you were expecting someone more "mature"? Well, if it makes you feel better, I'm older than I look :) Also, thanks for all of your suggestions - I can tell you know what you are talking about. I appreciate any help I can get.

Franco, I sent you a message via FB

If you use an insert with a smaller radius you will get a better finish

The Sherline is a decent little lathe but I gladly trade if for a Citizen M32 :)

Yes. What kind of tool changer do you have?

@@FrancoCNC hi, Emco 120P with 8 tools ATC

Thanks. Someday, I hope to be a fully educated machinist.

​@@FrancoCNC your welcome if you want / need some help with what to do or how to do them then i gladly help ( i did help/teach other students and was even teaching my own teacher's ) at my old work place we always had the tools hang out as short as we could get away with and the same with the stickout on the chuck ( in case you need to make a long part then cut it up ( have some stuckout. do some of the work. pull it out some more to your stop. work some more ( close to the chuck ) and continue untill all the work on the part is done and then cut it off. instead of haveing all that stickout all at ones makeing vibration problems for you ( trust me you done want to do the anti vibration calculations for your part ( it tells you where to run witch feed rate and spindle speed at one point on your part and further down the part it have to change ( we spend a lot of time doing that -.-" ) if you want i can send you some Gcodes so you can see what i mean best regards from denmark

also get that guy bolted down to a huge cast iron plate/block if you can ( weight is your friend / the heavier you can make that machine ( at least from how physics see's it ) the better and some polished aluminum inserts for your final pass

Hi. It came from the factory with ball screws installed. It was a very tight setup with less than .001" on each axis.

I've got 3 sherline manual lathes and three manual mills. I'm trying to convert them to cnc. I like your setup. Are you using mach3 or sherline'software.

@@pg9112471 Hi. I'm actually using the Centroid Acorn system along with closed loop drivers/motors. It's work really well for me.

@@FrancoCNC oh, thanks for the reply.im making a 5c lathe with a manual xy table interchangeable with a sherline milling table with stepper motors runed by mach3.

bensbenz , Noga Mincool is so expensive but so worth the money

@@nigelberry9210 I think i got mine for around $100, not too bad for being as well made as it is. I use it on the lathe, band saw, cold saw and it works well. I did try some cheapo Chinese ones first but they were just terrible.

They are $240 aud here and still worth it

@@b3nsb3nz it's a tube and a screw.. Noga is over priced stolen ideas.

@@nigelberry9210 Noga stuff is top notch - I like their indicator bases.

Happy to help.

The radius you did on your lathe I am looking for a g-Code for that I am getting into making rings and I can't seem to write the gcode for it I do pen and pencils which I wrote a gcode for them but its just straight cuts but I need a gcode for radius for the rings

@@glenhendricks66 Do you use Fusion360?

no I Use DeskCNC that came with my Sherline CNCLathe

oh yeah by the way my lathe is in inches not meters

Yes...yes it is.