I've watched thousands of how to videos for all sorts of vehicles I've owned and this was most likely the best one. You have a knack for this and should keep making car tutorials.

Thank you for the video! I will be doing this job very soon on my 2006 Mazda 3

Yep, got a 09 Mazda 5 that spit one out just like this. Bout to order the bushings and do both sides. I like these videos like this so I can glance through them and see what kinda job it's going to be. Other than having to get dirty and hardest part of getting up n down in the ground ( bad foot / ankle ) just getting up the mood to actually do it will be my hardest part.

Thank you so much for posting this.

Thanks so much for this. I am planning on upgrading my bushings to polyurethane and was looking for a good how to video.

Thanks very much... Clearly presented with good tips. I needed a breaker bar and pipe to remove one bolt. Otherwise it came out reasonably well.

The bushings on my 08 Speed 3 look exactly like this, I thought the rear of my car was coming apart every time I hit the brakes. Got Moog replacements on the way, thanks for the video :-)

Nice work, am about to do 2010 Mazda 3 and 04 Focus ZX3... Same exact problem and suspension on both cars.

Thanks for posting!

Makes me want to buy a Mazda. This guy is good.

Cheers man!

Thanks for the video! It's great. You did a fantastic job! I'll have to do this repair on my ladies 07 Mazda 3 as there is a very loud clunk sound when driving over bumps such as in front of driveways, speed bumps and large pothole (if they are not avoided in time)

Have you tried placing the bushing in the freezer and the arm in anoven or heat theend with a torch? we used to do this to put bearings in place in quick change rear ends using this approach, bearings inthe freezer and rear end center section in an oven.

Good for a step by step but if you only want to do this once and make the install easier replace these with the powerflex bushings. See my review on them. Otherwise you will have to do this again in the future.

I personally after all of that wor bought the powerflex version and since it is a bit more expensive it will last twice as long as the OEM part and comes with an incredible warranty but if the our ring was in descent shape SuperPro make another nice one that slides right in the ring and also has a better warranty than the OEM part

Hi .. I am planning to replace control arm bushings and balance joints for the driver and passenger sides .. and I can't find the ball joint and bushings sold separately in my country, even Mazda said I have to replace the whole control arm , would please tell me how can I identify mines and then look for them online ?

Same on Volvo C30 , s40, and others!😉

Hey bud, any other parts you'd suggest replacing while it's all torn apart for the bushing replacement? I'm thinking rear brake pads (not really suspension) but wondering about the other suspension stuff. Thanks.

how to tell if the bushing need to b replace

Nice video! What's a hex head wrench?

I've been trying to figure out what was causing that noise from the back. It started after I change the strut and swaybar links. I'm sure that's the problem and I will definitely look in to. Thanks a lot for the info. So far the best tutorial video I've seen for mazda 3. And quick question. Ok so you know that thing in the positive battery cable that looks like a fuse block? What exactly is that called? Because I've searched everywhere and I can't get an answer. Apparently it went bad and my car wasn't starting. All I heard was a click from the starter and that turned put to be the problem. But I can't seem to find a replacement or what exactly is called

Hi, when pressing in the new bush is there any marking where they should go back in?

Does this require an alignment afterwards?

is the product in the link the only thing you need? do you need that metal ring?

Quick question. How many trailing arm bushing are in a 2006 Mazdaspeed Axela ?

Is this the same process with the cx9?

common repair on the ford focus 2000-2010. there's a special tool which enables you to remove and install this bushing withthe trailing arm installed on the car. ridiculously-expensive!was able to fabricate a tool that does the job myself, for 20$+tax, using 3' long threaded 1/2" rod, 4' long angled steel, nuts and flat washers. removed the old bushings and installed the new ones, both sides. you'd also need to buy some Black pipe fittings that would help you press in and out the bushings. its a bitch of a job, but its doable.just needs patience and some mechanical skills.BEWARE: removing the whole trailing arm off of the car and having it sent to a mechanic with a shop press is a can of worms. as you would have to remove all of the other control arms attached to the trailing arm. that would be a bitch of a job. as you with aging, all the rubber bushings somehow binds to the bolts securing the control arms to the cross member, not only that, you would have to replace all control arms once removed. and the cherry on the cake is that you'd have to do an alignment job at the end, once you remove the lower rear control arm-the one that accommodates the coil. a real bitch of a job, if you don't do this with control arm installed on the car. you have been warned.good luck everyone.

Know if you need an alignment after this? Took it to a shop said they didn't find anything wrong but i do have the rattling noise which makes me believe its the bushings. But this shop does keep saying im going to need an alignment after the job.

$700 Labor for 6.5 hours DFW.