Me to

Yep, I’m gathering all the necessary components…

We'll, comments like yours are the highlight of MY day, so this is a mutually beneficial relationship we've got going on here!

Video every day December? That's what I'm thinking!

And it would be like a whole month of Christmas :)

Johnny's Reloading Bench video every day in December? I watch your videos like I watch my favorite show. Love your videos. You taught me a lot and you also inspired me to reload for my 20inch 556 barrel. Great video keep em coming.

Are you using a 5.56 chamber or .223 Remington chamber ?

I was too! It shot pretty darn well on the low end, though. Powders act so differently in various cartridges, or with different bullet weights in the same cartridge, that I really try not to "hate" specific powders. They all have a place somewhere in the infinite world of barrel/bullet/primer/brass combinations! I'll be sure to test BL-C(2) with some 55gr bullets very soon!

Don't sweat it, brother. KZfaq is still not selling enough ads, so that will still happen a lot. Enjoy the video and go about your day! I really appreciate the attempt, though!

I don't have direct experience with the Lee but I've heard good things about it! I don't think an average reloader would notice the alignment and concentricity differences you mention. I only recently got a concentricity gauge, so maybe I will run some tests in a future video.

I haven't shot 4320 in a while and just picked up a can a few weeks back! So, you'll be seeing it pop up on the channel pretty soon.

jon lennon no, it’s because he is shooting suppressed

The sensitivity settings on my V3 go from 1-11. 2 is the default and that is what I used for all jacketed bullets. For lead bullets I sometimes need to bump it up to 3.

Thanks. I have the cheap-o version of the magnetospeed that doesn't have the same fine tuning as the V3--I only get 3 choices. However, you are still a big help. I am guessing that I would need to use either regular or Hi 1. I should have bought the more expensive magnetospeed but now it's too late. I am stuck with the "sport" version for now.

The underlying technology of the sporter is the same, as far as I know! I've often wished I had bought the sporter version and saved the money! If you are having problems, I would suggest putting it on normal sensitivity (unless you're shooting lead) and focusing on the distance to the bore line. I was nervous about getting it too close in the beginning but that's what it takes! I also chased my tail a bit at first with the sensitivity but soon learned to just leave it alone at the standard setting. Does the sporter come with the alignment guide rod? If not, a dowel rod down the bore or a piece of 1/4" square metal rod from the hardware store might help a lot!

Great advice. It does not have a guide rod. I have been using my cleaning rod. Thanks very much.

I don't know enough about internal ballistics to even come up with theories about what causes this sort of thing! I'm a big fan of all these elk reintroduction projects. Even more so now that I drew a tag! :) I'm really excited and can't wait to hit the woods!

Johnny's Reloading Bench, probably in a scatter node for your barrel at the ~2750fps range. Stick to the lower accuracy node @ ~2690fps with TAC

BLC-2 is the same as 748, I've always been told. And when I loaded .223 with 748, it shot 3-5 inch groups and I was 1.5gr under the max charge.

The video isn't green yet. Was the ad outdoor related? For a while I was seeing a crossbow company displaying ads on some of my "limited" videos.

Johnny's Reloading Bench it was an ad trying to tell me how to make money on the internet. I can afford mansions! And then the ad was over and I was a broke youtuber again.

moparmadman me too

I got a wish ad at the start and 2 ads in the video itself

Me too, and I made sure I let it play all the way through

Joseph R I have not been reloading very long but I've found that no matter what grain bullet or powder combination I try my Colt 16" 1-7 does not like hotter loads. It likes the lower range and it also likes 2.260 COAL.

Hornady manual to the rescue! That's why I love the Hornady manual so much, and why you see it in just about every video. They always seem to have the weird and less common stuff covered. For the Hornady 220gr ELD-X at 2.800" they show CFE223 37.0-42.6. 2200 fps from a 22" barrel. That should be enough to get you started. Start low, work your way up as usual. I don't really have load data, per se. I am reading from a load manual or a powder website in each video. 300 blackout subsonics are just about the only exception, and I haven't really compiled my findings. I usually have to go back and watch my own videos to remember things!

Johnny's Reloading Bench thanks! I don't really have much area for Chronoing my loads, so I watch your videos and then go with your third lowest result usually. I'm really only doing plinking loads since I don't have anything besides an indoor range right now. I'd love to be able to shoot at a longer range every day. You anywhere near Philly? Lol

New Holland Rifle and Pistol club is in Lancaster County Pennsylvania. it's not too far from Philly. Here is the site. www.nhrpc.org

Rifles First 1:8" twist and a 10.5" barrel

G3oc3nt1c thanks! I'll check them out.

I want to learn so I’m asking, what about the shoulder bump can lead to the swipes of over pressure? Case sized too small? Even if it’s just using full length sizing due?

Source?

Source for what?

@@anthonyz.4560 USAF shooting team. The heavy.556 they use AR Comp

@@RoscoPColetrane source, where you heard that the mk262 is loaded with tac and antiflash

@@anthonyz.4560 from a member of the Air Force shooting team that I shoot nra with

The person who developed the round stated it’s a 77gr smk , then 77gr smk with can. Also they had to use a 77gr nosler I think for a little bit. There’s a video my small arms solutions with an interview I believe

I know this is old and you likely already found the answer to this but in case not and more so for others that might read and wonder the same thing, Yes... That was the whole point of the Wylde "chamber" (its really just the throat that is different). It is a config derived to allow 5.56 to be fired with closer to .223 Rem accuracy but not the over pressure risk that comes from firing 5.56 in a .223 "chamber" (again, the only differences are in the throat). When the 5.56 chamber specs were designed, it was chosen to make the free bore diameter a slight bit larger and longer for a number of reasons and it allowed for the cartridge to also be loaded to higher pressure but the sacrifice was accuracy. One of the reasons for the larger and longer throat was to reduce likelihood of dangerous overpressure situations if the inside of the barrel get wet and to prevent jams if small debris (sand and dirty and such) gets into it. The Wylde chamber (throat) is basically the .223 throat diameter (which help bring back the accuracy) but with the longer throat length and leade angle of the 5.56 chamber. The idea of it is that the concern for debris and water is not an issue in the civilian side of things unlike military side so reduce the diameter brings back the accuracy but keep the long throat to deal with the higher load pressures. This is one thing that Johnny here used to always seem to have backward when talking about seating depth and saying that seating deeper will cause higher pressure which is opposite of what is true. While pressure does tend to rise a bit faster when you seat deeper, the peak pressure is however often lower when you seat deeper. This is why the Wylde allows you to safely fire 5.56. The longer throat is essentially the same as seating deeper. In general, the closer the bullet is to the lands, the higher the peak pressure will be for a given load because the bullet has to engrave into the lands before it can get going down the barrel. By seating deeper (or by lengthening the throat for the same seating depth), you are giving the bullet a longer running start before it has to engrave into the lands. This then allows the bullet to get further into the barrel before enough powder had burnt to achieve peak pressure. This can easily be tested (and has been many many times) by loading a cartridge to the point of peak pressure with the bullet touching the lands and then with that same powder charge, firing it with the bullet well off the lands and test will show that you are no longer at the same peak pressure, even as little as .010 jump can be worth several thousand PSI drop with certain combinations. Think of it like this, if you walk up to a closed door (like say a bedroom door) and just put your shoulder into it with all the force you can, most people will not be able to bust it open. No on the other hand, stand back and take a running start at it and most people will be able to bust it open and those who do will only kind of fall into the room when the door gives way. Now stand back away from the door and take a running start at it. Most will not only bust through the door but will make it well into the room before they can slow down and stop. All in all, it doesn't take much pressure (force really) to get the bullet to leave the case but it take quite a bit to get it to engrave into the lands and and get going down the barrel. By giving it a running start, it can get to a higher speed (remember energy is a product of mass and velocity) and thus more energy to engrave and make its way down the barrel and the further it can get down the barrel as the powder burns, the slower the pressure will rise and the lower the peak will be.

150, 168, or 180? Why do you want to go longer? Are you not happy with the accuracy at 2.750"? Going longer is generally not a big deal, since that means more room in the case, which means lower pressure and velocity for the same charge weight. As you get really close to the lands or jam into them, I've always read that you can experience a quick pressure spike and need to watch out. For that reason I would suggest staying back off the lands until you are more comfortable. I would suggest loading up some rounds at 750, 775, 800, 825, 850, and 875. Then go shoot them and see what happens. Start short and work your way long, watching pressure signs as you go.

You might not know this but you need to check each different bullet you shoot for absolute OAL. (I.e. 150gr, 168 gr, 175gr, etc) Different profiles to the ogive will give different OAL.

1976kingdom. All the factory loads give me a 2 plus inch group at 100yrds. I didn't know if the .100 plus jump was to much affecting my accuracy,.

Usually if you can get the bullet seated about 15 thousandths off the lands you can find accuracy. However, this is very bullet dependent. Some bullets make the jump just fine. If you're shooting a stock Remington 700 they have notoriously long throats (transition between chamber and lands) this allows for a wide range of factory ammo to be consistently accurate. Now to you're original question. I still would work up to the max charge carefully even with the extra case capacity that the longer seated bullet will give you. So whatever powder and bullet combo you are using go by whatever the manual (powder or bullet) recommends. Then if you reach max charge and there is no pressure signs work your way up by no more than 2 tenths of a grain at a time. What I usually do is find my most accurate powder charge at 2.800 OAL then slowly work my OAL length out and see if tightens my group up.

Imr 3031 and Imr 4064

Mk262 was designed for the mk12 spr with an 18" barrel

@@df4550 every article I've read stated that it was originally designed by SOCOM for their SBR.

@@charlesduncanmckinley920 www.sadefensejournal.com/wp/black-hills-ammunition/ This is the only article I was able to find stating it was designed for the mk12.

@@df4550 ok. Thank you for sharing that.

It was designed for the mk12. You and the articles you read are wrong.@@charlesduncanmckinley920

If you guys keep watching, I'll keep testing powders! We'll get to them all eventually. There's still a lot of bullets left in my Sierra box!

Dannie Jones His last video also used Remington primers.

They still look closest to Remington 7 1/2 but there are some subtle differences I showed in the last video. I plan to stick with the Remingtons unless I find something that makes me want to switch back to CCI 41's.

Johnny's Reloading Bench Lol. I was referring to the primers that were in the box that looked like the CCI 41. Ever since I found your channel I watched them like a crackhead even the hour long ones I love them. You go so into detail about reloading you pushed me into it. Thank you for your videos

I've been screwing around with my audio a bit lately to try and help out the headphone users. I may have taken it too far in this video. Sorry about that.

Have you watched his videos? He throws then trickles up to exact charge weight on a scale.

@@PC-vq5ud yes I have have watched many of his videos, he has caused so many variables by changing the way he measures the powder. Using electronic scales, beam scales. He has changed different primers, different brass cases.