Hi Robert! Just wanna say THANK YOU because my recent moulding and casting was a success because of your teachings. I know how to fix my moulds and use chunkies even resin chunkies that I thought why not 😂. I have seen other moyld and cast videos on youtube too but yours is the best! Keep it up! We love your works!

3D printing opens up so much if you're a mold maker. I do slip casting ceramics with 3D printed molds I design and its a blast.

Thanks for this experiment Rob!!! Great to see ya buddy!

Came here from craftsman video. Wanted to give him credit. I subscribed. Very interested in your videos. Can’t wait to watch them

The cheap printers like the kingroon Pipapo are in the model T phase, there are and there have been since a whole while, printers like the prusa mk3, which are pretty easy to use.

This was a great video!

SO jealous! Your KZfaq channel is really working well for you!

I love the outtake!

Yes a Sucess. Anytime you don't get a spaghetti monster is a win.

Bob, first I must say that you are fantastic. Taking the printer and getting it to print your little guy is amazing. Your ability to create the little guy or gal that you came up with amazes me. I bet you could sell that little guy or gal to a toy company. It’s adorable. I know one little girl that would love it. My granddaughter would play with it for days. I know nothing about 3D printers. What would drive me crazy is trying to get it to print right out of the box. I don’t have the patience for that. Best regards, Richard

I like your review no sugar coating Thanks Robert

If you get a printer from a well known manufacturer it's much less of a Model T. I've had my Ender 3 v2 for close to a year now. I did have to assemble it but after that it's worked pretty much perfectly.

Welcome to the filament printer family. Most important thing to do is get a set of feeler gages and get your bed L E V E L. You can spend years tweaking the settings but that first layer is everything. The supports failed due to the spacing settings, the defaults are usually a bit too wide. Thanks for all your videos, you got me enough confidence to start casting my filament print project. I just did my tests on my primer to make sure there wasn't any inhibition. There was no inhibition and I start smoothing the big model today. It's gonna need to be done the same way you did the dog-brush-holder. cut mold with resin on the outside. At least that's the plan, wish me luck! And thanks again for making great videos.

Wow what a coincidence. I just bought the same printer a month ago. I had the same issue with the zaxis parts. I just assumed they were extras and left them off. Printed just fine without them. I will add them now. Thanks!

Hey! If you’re getting into making 3D prints with filament, I have to recommend polymakers polysmooth filament. I believe it’s PVB (might be wrong) but it’s smoothable with isopropyl alcohol vapor. You don’t need the fancy vaporizer machine they sell, but a bucket of isopropyl and the print raised out of it will work wonders. It smooths it out far faster and more evenly than sanding and applying resin. You may already be familiar with the material, but it prints exceeding easily on filament printers. Just make sure it doesn’t stay out too long since it’s hygroscopic and will become stringy and hard to use if wet. If it gets wet, just use a dehydrator for an evening on low and it will be back to it’s best the following day. Looking forward to seeing more of these hopefully, and I hope you can appreciate even after all of the fiddling how nice 3D printing can be for large models!

Love the ending

Now we gotta see you cast that bad boy. ;) Great video!

By the way, your channel is really good. You deserve more subscribers.

You lucky ducky I've been wanting one of these ever since forever just can't afford lol. Love your channel and that adorable face and personality! Stay Groovy ✌~N~💖

Great!!

Hey Robert, hope you are well. Missed seeing you ere the past two Fridays. Perhaps a well-deserved vacation! Take care.

i am new subscriber im just amaze you can make your own model im planning to buy my first kp3s and start learning a lot about it

my printers are pretty much set it and forget it these days (i have 2 highly modified Ender3's - nothing Creality remains aside from the frame and steppers). i still have an error or failure every now and then but they are few and far between. that said, it took a TON of tinkering to get them that way. and once i had one setup the way i liked it, i set the 2nd one up exactly the same way with the same upgrades, parts, etc. one troubleshooting list, one parts bin. i've been printing for 5 or 6 years now and for the last year or so my printers have been running almost 24/7 on a little side-hustle i fell into. it's my favorite hobby because i can make my other hobbies cooler by making parts for them!

Nice job on the setup. I purchased that printer two weeks ago and am very happy with it. As you say the documentation is mostly non existent. There are a few youtube videos showing how to fix blockages in the hotend and stuff like that. There is also a facebook users group. I typically use tree supports in Cura rather than standard supports.

3:19 That port might be just for firmware updates.

It's crazy how far FDM printers have advanced in terms of functionality and affordability. The barrier to entry for 3D printing is lower than ever.

Could you do a video about the different terminologies in mold making? For example: explaining what deep pour is and why you might need a different type of resin for it.

Thank you for awesome content and your expertise! Love your videos! I have a question did you ever try creating mold for Eiffel Tower? Not sure if it possible take out kind structure.

@Robert Tolone here's some advice for you. Set your walls to 4, set your infill to zero percent and use tree supports (set it to "touching buildplate only). Set your build plate adhesion to "Raft" and use around 3mm for "Raft Extra Margin" This will speed up your prints and fix some of the issues you had.

Hello! I need your help. I'm looking for transparent silicone with a tin-based catalyst. And yet, need this silicone to be tensile resistant so that it is not brittle. Please recommend where I can buy and what kind of silicone markings to look for. Thank you.

Hi Robert, I've been into 3d printing for a few years and I would not say we are still in the model T era, we are well past that. Nowadays printers are fairly reliable considered their cost. I'd say we are in the 80's, they do their job if you are willing to do yours, their performance is far beyond early models, but somentimes they break. Some printers need a good amount of fiddling beacuse they are very poorly designed and made with cheap parts. I had a 10 yo printer and you wouldn't get such a result even if you consumed the whole spool after 20 tryes. Even the best ones do need some knowledge especially for the slicing and mateinance. It all comes down to the cost factor. High tolerances in mechanical parts push the prices way up, so it's always a matter of compromise. The 3D printing itself is a maufacuring process and as for other processes you need to know the limits and have a toolbox to operte and fix the problems. There are a few improvements that can be made to make the "perfect printer" but would not be under 1000$ for now, even if the quality reaches the highest possible level there will always be some limitations and eventually some fiddling or manteinance from time to time.

Hey Thank you for your review , What printer profile did you use in Cura? Do you have any source I can use? Thanks

So Bob how about a bit of a time and motion video for Mr Twoface as an example of printing against moulding timeframes for mass production . A six hour print , cleaning up the PLA print surface etc against making a fast setting RTV mould and how many reproductions you could make in an hour with fast set polyurethane.

50-60 years ago car's was complected with instruction, how to set the valve clearance. And what we have now?)))

3:20 this isn't a network port. It's USB type B connector, same as 2D printers use.

Cheap FDM printers are about as reliable as a Model T. Higher end printers, particularly the Prusa i3, are dead reliable. The current Prusa i3 has automatic bed leveling, automatic Z-axis adjust, thermal runaway detection, filament runout detection, power loss protection and resume (saves progress on power loss), filament jam detection, multi-filament support and a few things I can't remember off the top of my head. It comes both as a kit and pre-assembled. The pre-assembled printer costs about $1000, but you unpack it, put it on a table, push go and it just works. Flawless prints every time, even when there's a blackout. If I get another 3D printer for some reason, it's going to be that one.

Wondering how the 3d adventure has been going over the last two weeks?

I have a question Mr. Tolone, I have a part I want to cast but I want to make it smaller the original part. I’ve seen a video by craftsman and he added mineral spirts to his rubber to shirk his mold after a few days of It airing out. Do you have any advice and have you ever tired this method to shirk a mold down. Maybe you could make a video in the future so how you would do it. Any advice would be helpful. Your awesome and thanks for teaching me so much about making molds and casting because of your teachings I’ve made around 40ish molds for casting.

Yes, for the cheaper printers they are still very kit. Prusa Mk3S is much more "ready for prime time" by comparison with an auto-leveling bed and z-height detection. I've built two from kits but you can buy them pre-built. They are real workhorses - of all the filament printers they are the most likely to be setup and print without constant tinkering.

I've created a mold with my 3d printer that I used to cast silicone in. I had to sand and paint it a good amount to smooth the mold out. It turned out really good though. I'm messing around more with it. What I'm wondering is what limits there is to it. I could probably build in vent holes and everything. Maybe I could do like a 4 piece mold. Where I pour most of the mold. Then assemble a second part that would allow me to pour the rest. What I'm thinking is I could do a more complicated cast in a couple pours to avoid bubbles. Thoughts? I'm sure there are simpler ways to go about it. However, I like the idea of using cheaper plastic rather than expensive silicone. Also are there complications inserting other materials in silicone aside from if it inhibits the silicone? I am partially wondering because it first would use less silicone if i could insert 3d prints in the silicone and second, it would allow for to put something more stiff inside soft silicone. Thanks for any help. I have learned a lot from your videos! I would send you an item to try molding. However, it is not so family oriented... If you are picking up what I'm putting down.

Hello, could you do a video about holographic inserts? Like, using them, how to make silicone piece from a sheet, etc.

Бесценный дар людям, делиться опытом!

I think people are overestimating the current generation of 3D printers. A lot of the stuff on the market right now is really good for what they do, but there's a couple of things coming down the pipeline that will *definitely* make what we have look primitive: • Self-cleaning printers that function like an ink printer where you have a reservoir of material that you refill once empty. • Computed Axial Lithography a.k.a. no print lines or supports. UC Berkley is developing a printer that prints from the inside out in 360° where a projector is used to cure the resin. The resin sits in a cylinder which rotates while light from the projector shines through it. This completely eliminates the need for layer lines and most supports. • Speed. The main application for 3D printing is in manufacturing. Right now, we're limited by printer speeds that make 3D printing slower than traditional manufacturing. It's better to 3D print a prototype, cast it, then use the cast to make copies. Fluoridated oil is one avenue to control the temperature of resin while preventing resin from sticking to the build plate. You can continuously print so long as you can keep pulling up vertically out. What this means is that you can print larger objects at a faster rate. A current SLA 3D printer may take 2 or 3 hours to print a 4" model. In that same time period, an SLA using this newer technology could print something the size of a person. Scaled down to something that can fit on a countertop, you could be looking at printing miniatures and models in a matter of minutes, rather than hours. • Mixed materials is something that currently isn't feasible with current 3D printers for home/personal use. We may eventually see printers that can do plastic, resin, and ceramic. There's already a couple of prototypes out there that can handle different materials, but they have issues with quality and detail. These printers may catch up to the 8k resin printers we have now. Not only would you be able to print models, but you could also print stuff like tableware. One disadvantage of current 3D printing is you can't sculpt onto 3D prints with traditional materials like polymer clay. You're stuck using air-dry materials or 2-part epoxy. Being able to print armatures that can be fired or baked in an oven without getting damaged is a godsend. • Metal printers already exist, but they're huge and expensive (like "multi-million dollar" expensive). Improvements to cold welding or TIG welding can be applied to make 3D metal printers viable for home use. Anywho, that's just some of the stuff I've seen out and about in the world of 3D printing. I'm sure there's more stuff I haven't heard of. I just thought the Model-T comparison was apt considering we may very well be getting into Star Trek/Jetsons territory within the next decade.

I have a question, how do I mold a cylinder object. It has a huge whole through the item

Hey Robert any chance of doing a video on pewter casting?

Tinkering the prints is 20% machine and 80% slicer software. Fun but frustrating at times for sure.

Check out the bambu lab x1 carbon 3d printer. It's a tesla compared to a model T. It's a kick starter but not really. All the huge reviewers are truly amazed by it.

Younger to be careful. There are lots of shady companies that try to get good KZfaq like you to pump up their products, but they tend to send you a better built version than they ship to the "real" customers. Makes muse and others have done many videos on this issue. BEWARE of these no name companies that try to get you to advertise a product your viewers may never get

Took me weeks to be able to print something that wasn't a mess with my elder 3 lol

Like

Hi Robert what resin printer do you use/recommend? please include 3-d sculpt cb programs as well, free or trial programs for us curious, lexperimental noobs. Thanks! -Dave “Pugmug” S.

I thought you were going to do a Victor Kiam, and say - “I liked it so much I bought the company’”.

The issue with the pants being in a separate layer from the feet is beacuse there is a slight Z offset. I used to get these when I modeled with Meshmixer and moved pieces by hand and not by using the coordinate positioning. There was nothing wrong with your bed leveling, and from what I can see, you did a pretty good job, the problem was that the feet touched the bed while the pants were printed without doing so. A plane cut to shave off 1 milimiter off the model should do, your pieces will lay perfectly flat on the bed.

I always enjoy watching your videos Robert. I’m glad you are getting into 3D printing and I hope you continue down this road. I’ve been printing on my Ender 3 Pro for a couple years now and I’m working on a long term movie prop project that includes a ton of audio visual and mechanical features. I think you should model more projects in 3D and then use fillers etc to smooth and create a nice master to mold from. Hopefully you can pick up a production type job like this to share with us.

Will you do molding with flexible resin? I wonder if anyone has done molding with flexible resin to use for edible stuff. I am looking for a 3d printer that prints flexible resin to make molds to use for chocolate and other edible products. Anyone can help? I am so clueless about this stuff!😔😔😔😔😔

Prusa printers with their autoleveling, possibility of buying already assembled printers, great support and great documentation, filament sensors, flexible buildplates, etc. are long past the "model-t" era. Check'em out! :) There's good innovation and improvements in 3d printing all the time if you look past the chinese companies that are using this old approach.

No vid this friday? :(

One thing that I have never seen anyone talk about is the filament quality. I recommend only using the more expensive stuff (like from Creality) but if you're printing with transparent filament it doesn't really matter. The pigments they use to color the filament (transparent by default) greatly changes its properties. I found this great deal on grey filament, and the first spool printed great but then I used the same type of filament but with a darker tinge. It was impossible to print with. Filament is also less reliable than resin printing because prints will fail sometimes for no discernable reason whatsoever. So it's a good idea to keep your eye on the print so as not to waste time and filament when it fails. An advantage over resin is that if you print at 0.05 layer height you will not need a primer to paint it with acrylics. Thicker layers will cause the paint to run through the channels so be careful. Another advantage is its mechanical properties. Filament prints are more true to form than resin. This means that if you're printing parts for anything they will have little to no warping or added thickness compared with the actual 3D model.

Hi Robert, how can I contact you about a project of mine?

Hey Kids, Robert is that uncle you always go to when you know you're in need of real adult wisdom. You'd do well by watching his videos...closely.

Anybody sit and watch this channel and think “Dang, I wish Mr. Robert was my dad”? Just me?

How is this not a commercial?

Completely depends on how much you spend. I have an Ender 5 pro, was around $500 Canadian, took some fiddling but she prints non stop now. Throw money at a PRUSA if you want an out of box experience.

No, printers aren't that fiddly anymore. This one is just shite, setting Z-height with a screw...

Oh this style of printer is awful