10:15 fit the switches in the top corner so the shelf can still be used for storage, some tins could fit there. The gap above is wasted space.

I'm not fan of isolators in cupboards and wiring the appliance straight into them . My preferred methods is isolators above work tops and a 40 amp connect unit made for cookers but hat was the way I was taught many moons ago . But nick is quite correct. Regs does allow isolators inside cupboard and directly wired into them . Is heat resistant cable need the answer is no the outer casing of the oven is insulated from the rest of the oven and it barely gets warm. As I say give a 100 sparks the same job and your most probably get a 100 ways of doing the said job and they will all comply with regs . And a foot note you install all appliances according to the manufacturer instructions

I was hoping you were going to do a video like this. Thank you for all your content.

Did an extension recently, installed a 6mm 32a for 7kw hob and a 2.5mm 20a for 4.1kw oven. Came back to 2nd fix and customer kicked off saying oven needed a 6mm supply as this is what was stated on website. Showed him the calc coming in at 17.8A and the 2.5mm factory flex on oven and he calmed down and it went ahead. Pain in the ass though.

Thinking of future lads and lasses, fair play 👍

Adam's quote for the day 'Do you want me to guide that in'.......................

Cracking work and thanks for sharing this with us take care

Hate doing these, cold tile floors and if your a big guy getting in those cabinets and screwing a nightmare ... but saying that better in cabinet than on the wall, great tip on keeping the cables long that really helps

The only sockets I tend to install inside kitchen cupboards but fixed to the wall is for the ignition on a gas hob and for the led lights wired to a FCU on 3amp but I'm gonna use a 1 amp fuse. 3 amp fcu is plenty for TVs and amplifiers. As it goes I might try the 1amp in my fcu for tv and amplifier.

would you be able to add these on with a fused spur or will a whole new circuit with a new mcb/rcbo be needed for this sort of installation? thank you

8:35 You say it's rarely turned off. Why is there a switch in front of the ovens in England? Isn't it enough to switch off the MCB in the fusebox?

10:15 I think I would have personally preferred one switch above the other.. It would use up less "shelf space" though realistically we are talking like 1 can worth of space ... but I wouldn't put anything above those switches, so it just becomes 'unused air space' so might as well put the other switch above.

I guess its floor boards or is it a solid floor and the 6mn cables rum downn the edge of the wall within safety zone? If this was the case then I feel it would be best to have an isolator above the worktop.

Hiya sweetheart. Just from a kitchen fitter, save you a world of pain. Lay your drills flat. I was cringing with that drill with the holesaw on the oven. It's top heavy, slightest knock and them work tops are bolloxed. Maybe get your cool workmats out or double correx maybe... honestly I'm constantly bollocking sparks for it. The other is tools on steps with no floor protector down Just sharing. Not being rude x

What happened to diversity calcs? Even with future expansion, 2x6mm2 is overkill. 6mm2 for hob, 2.5 (or 4) for hob.

Only issues with putting them isos flush with the shelf is that you can’t lift the shelf up a bit to get it out. Assuming they are still like that these days

I always prefer to use H07 for the final connection. It’s more flexible and I think easier to fish through holes etc. Also, I don’t like seeing T&E swinging in the breeze (not you will behind an oven, but I’ll know it’s there).

What is the point of isolator if they are not accessible? At that point if you want to turn off power just turn off the breaker at the fuseboard, these switches will be covered with stuff and never be used. Regulation for allowing them doesn't make sense, either they are required in accessible places or not required at all (generically requiring a means of isolation that could as well be the breaker itself in the fuse board, provided that that breaker only turns on only that appliance).

The thumbnail gave me unrealistic expectations of what I would see in this video. :)

32A hob and a 9.5A oven Could you use same circuit 6sq on a 32a mcb ? All rings on hob would have to be on full and oven on max to reach total load of 41.5A

noticed you connected both hob and cooker to the double pole switches and not to the connection unit on the wall. ?

6mm to isolator above work top. Then to a cooker splitter and power both hob and cooker from the one splitter. 👍. Saves money and cable

Lashin in 😳, & when did you start muscling in on Liverpool home turf ? 🤷‍♂️😜🤣🤣

One thing to mention is the cutout for the hob. The edge wasnt protected with heat reflective aluminium tape to stop the worktop getting damaged from radiant heat.

Not a fan of isolators at the back of a cupboard. I personally put them at the front of the cupboard so when it's full of kitchen stuff you still have easy access to the isolates. I come across stuff like that when the kitchen fitters have done the wiring.... Anything for the easiest. Just my opinion

Well i might as well say it before more people do, you should use H07 for the hob 😳

Should use heat resistant flex for hob not t and e. Great video tho mate

Can’t believe the CEF knew the history and still didn’t give you a good deal 🤣

Oven manufacturers always like to make out they have a much much bigger load in Amps for some reason

Can I have the link for the group please

swell thumbnail. wouldn't that pic of adam go great engraved on a notepad?? 🤣

To this day I can't fathom why they don't file the sharp edges on oven cases, I mean how hard can it be to do that this day and age?! If you were born in Stoke, you'll always be a Stokey, duck! Inabit.

Dam again 🤣

isolators been in cupboards n on top of wall units for years much easily n less messy

When will we have another van video

8:52 probably not the best thing to say when a bloke is bent down in front of you.

Quality not quantity nicholous

1 x 6mm is plenty, 2 x 6mms gives 30kw of cooking appliances😮 it aint gonna happen

someone missed the point of first fix in that kitchen.......

First

Eye bleedy.

Twin and earth to the oven and hob is just wrong

So much easier with 6mm flex ( HO7RNF)) you can buy it by the meter