Things that are worth while refreshing and that have improved the overal drive for me were: Cleaning out Idle control Valve New fuel Pressure regulator Swapping to Series 2 PTU, Checking the timing: mine was retarded by 5 degrees so we advanced it up to 7. Checking the CAS, make sure the pin is not broken on the inside or misaligned Engine temp sensor is an easy one for sure, Correct NGK spark plugs: NGK PFR6G-11 Setting the correct TPS Optional but recommended improvements: HKS Super Power Flow intake is nice UnOrthodox or GFB lightweight crank pulley Concept Z NA EPROM chip Lightweight Flywheel/Driveshaft and maybe some nice exhaust manifolds After this, you either go TT or spend crazy money for Cams, Big Throttle Boddies + Intake piping/ Dual Selin MAF, injectors + tune

From another restomodder , Good luck!

Thank you for this!! Can’t wait for the next video!!

Will be here for next episode

Wow, I really like watching your videos! I have a 1991 2 seater non turbo sitting in a garage for over 20 years now with about 38k miles on it. I live in Germany and I want to get the car running again. I'm not a car mechanic and only did simple jobs so far on my cars like changing oil, brakes and stereo stuff etc. I have to pick the car up pretty soon because the place it is in storage is being sold. When I put it in storage, the car was working perfectly. But jeez I didn't really take any precautions because I didn't think it was gonna be in the garage that long, but life just went on - a daughter was born, got a different job etc... So now after having the car sitting that long in the garage, I don't even know where to start. Of course, I will need a new battery, new tires, break fluid and oil. (timing belt I will have to have done somewhere-I can't do that) The gas in it will be old as well. So do you think I should just pop in a new battery and try to start it up? Or should I do any precautions? Also, where can I pick up new parts like all the different rubber hoses that should probably be replaced after all these years and gather information on how to take things apart and fixing? It would be great if you could help me out! Thanks

I enjoy your work! I have owned a 1990 300ZX for 23 years and have about 310K miles on her. NA Auto T Top. I've had most everything apart on the car over the years and have pulled the plenum probably 10 times. Did the coolant bypass early on with no issues. Recently dropped the rear subframe and replaced all bushings because of wear; the subframe bushing were puking their silicone filling. Used the only thing I could find - poly. Worst decision ever on my car. The things might as well be aluminum billet they're so stiff. BTW, it's a daily driver and I use the rear hatch all of the time but the original stock struts still work perfectly. Go figure... One other thing. If you ever get a misfire ending with a dead cylinder and just can't track it down, consider pulling the crank angle sensor and giving it a good clean. Never made sense to me how only one cylinder would be affected, but it was on mine. I apologize if you've covered this before but my current issue is with mufflers. Never had an problem finding them (the passenger side is still the original!) but now can't find one anywhere. If you by chance have sourced a muffler for your Z32, I would appreciate any information. Thanks, good luck and you've done a great job!

Currently going through the same thing! literally just pulled the manifold today.

Thanks for the vids they’re teaching me a lot! just picked up a 93 vert and attempting to narrow down the cause of a dead miss. would love to hear your thoughts. I cranked it up last night and used a laser thermometer on the exhaust manifold to see which cylinder wasn’t firing. Appeared to be cyl 4. I pulled the coil off of cyl 2 and swapped it with cyl 4’s. New plugs as well. Still cold on cyl 4. I’m thinking of pulling the manifold to clean/test the injectors and do the under-plenum coolant hose delete, AIV delete and EGR bypass while I’m in there. Planning on Cleaning the PTU connections as well but haven’t made it that far just yet. Thanks in advance!

Just watched all your recent video's. Great job. Looking forward to the next. I am really considering buying a 1989 JDM 300zx TT Auto and Manual Swapping so these were helpful

Hey, love these videos, definitely something I can reference when I manual swap my Z. One thing I notice though is you said you didn’t see an o ring for the balance tube. Sorry if you already caught it, but around 13:30 it’s actually sitting right over the opening in the intake manifold, and around 13:36 it looks like it was about to fall into the engine bay, so in terms of your balance tube o rings, I think you were solid

Hey man , I’m a 23 yo in Texas and I don’t really know much about cars yet , but I’m learning. I’m buying a 1990 300zx NA 2 seater for my first ever project car! It dosent run but I’m up for the challenge, I would really be grateful if you could tell me where you got all the parts online for your 300zx. If you have an email I can message you from or if I could ask you a few questions on the car. Or if you could make a video on what are the important things to replace first. It would mean a lot to me thank you🙏🏼

Love your videos! So thankful for KZfaq, with buying my first zx

Yep don’t miss all that craziness to pull my plenum. Mine comes off in 15 minutes lol 😂 But then again, I deleted all of the under lines, EGR went bye bye, all of my fuel lines go under the plenum, and those R35 coils are like the cherry on the sundae…so yeah, that easy 15 minute pull probably was a result of 3-5k investment but since I don’t have to remove my balance tube ever again, ehhh maybe worth it? As far as the half moon rubber bits you got from the exhaust valve cover sides, BDE makes a replacement kit that replaced them with an actual aluminum piece that fits flush and locks in fairly well. They’re around $15-25.

Nice work mate

Might want to replace the fuel injectors since the plenum is off.

What’s the link for that chart you found

Hello just a quick question. Where do you find all your parts for the 300ZX?

another great video once again even thou the plenum needed to be pulled id'e be pretty sure missing that balance tube oring would be a problem, could of been notice by using some flammable spray liquid around the manifold and vacuum lines etc whilst idling engine and you would of heard the engine smooth out at idle but didn't really matter as you were replacing a whole lot stuff in the process anyway, plus that corroded connection wouldn't be helping either they also do that on the injector plugs and the coil packs also id'e give your pcv valves a good soaking and clean out as they can get sticky and clagged up with sludgy oil, the ball bearing inside should slide back and forth to seal nicely as it pulse's also the idle control valve can get carbon build up inside and the plunger can be sticky to. good move deleting the coolant line's under plenum there mainly for very cold countries to stop throttle bodies icing up and keep throttle from jamming wide open. one other thing is you should always put paper towel or rags in each inlet port when working around with the manifold off but im sure your pretty switch on anyway but some valve's are open and you only need a little nut or something that could fall inside with out knowing where it went, i hope it runs better once your done, it's a pitty when you did the gearbox i would of deleted the egr but you can still just block it then you can delete iav valve boxes under front wheel arches and all the crap that goes with them vac lines & hoses and solenoid crap there are two hose's from your stock down pipes that run to the iav boxes but i do run extractor headers and a set of megan racing down pipes 2.5" through to some nice rear magnaflow twin mufflers with big twin big outlets with a special x muffler in the middle to keep the noise down a bit plus a lighter single piece balanced steel tail shaft im all about weight removal for the NA, i ditched the bose non working speakers front and rear they are heavy with amplifiers on each speaker and fitted nylon plates that take normal speakers front and rear. also i have a full set of billet under drive pulleys you have to get smaller fan belts thou and i have the over drive water pump pulley with the mishimoto radiator, it all adds up in the end gaining extra hp's a less weight. there's other things to like eprom the ECU but gee's this post is already too long. lol cheers mate

I can see u put lot of hours in it lol