Yeah, the pressure! I agree that most people don't talk about how much pressure to use-it's one of the really difficult things to teach, and people have to come to an understanding about pressure through experience. You can work with a heavily charged pad and a very light touch, increasing the pressure as the pad dries out. Or you can work with a lightly charged pad and start with more pressure. Depends on where in the process you are and what you are trying to accomplish. Thanks for the post Robert.

Why thank you kind sir! However I assure you that it is I who have learned much from watching your videos on polishing. Can't get Everclear here in California, so I get alcohol from Mexico, 190 proof. See you around.

The neck can beFrench polished as well but the start s to fill the pores with pumice powder and the start polishing it. ore layers are required of course.

Thank you for your insightful and thoughtful opinion. it's comments like yours that make KZfaq such an interesting platform.

Take a look at the 9 series video of "Pablo Requena - French polishing!"

Watch again. I add the alcohol only to the pad in the beginning to 'condition' it-if I like the way the cover is working I will do this; it sort of cleans the pad of oil and a little shellac that may have clogged the cover. I blot it until it's almost dry. Then start in with the shellac. Toward the end I want the mixture to be cut a little more by alcohol, so I'll add add a bit of alcohol after charging the pad with shellac. Depends on what stage your are in, if you're building finish then don't cut the charge with more alcohol. The oil is acting as a lubricant. The least amount of oil necessary is the best. Practice on a piece of scrap wood until you get a feel for it. Hope this helps.

Why would one want to cut the mixture with alcohol towards the end?

We used to keep our 'rubbers' [pads] in a screw-top jar, kept damp with 'meths' [methylated spirit].

Good hints thanks

THIS DRAWS THE OIL OUT OF THE FINNISH.IF YOUDONT REMOVE ALL THE OIL IT WILL BREAK OUT LATER LEAVING YELLOW STREAKS IN THE GRAIN.I POLLISHED PIANOS YEARS AGO

No, the shellac is very thin. Very fine scratches can be polished out, but not dings.

I'm using fresh olive oil.

sdluthier Is that in preference to linseed ? [Olive oil]

Banacek60 Chord I have never used linseed oil. Mineral oil, walnut oil, and olive oil is the extent of my experience with oils.

sdluthier Interesting. Linseed has been the 'fluid' of choice in western Europe for hundreds of years, paints, varnishes, including shellac, putty....I wonder if it's an agriculture thing? If there are olives falling all around you, you're not going to plant flax! Linseed is preferable to 'lemon oil' for fingerboards and bridges & not so expensive either.

I know this post is a year old, but I wanted to mention that the oil in this process serves a different purpose than the other stuff you mention. In a lot of those, the oil is modified to be a "drying" oil (especially if it's labelled as "Boiled"). It polymerizes, and hardens to become part of the finish. In the case of french polish, the oil is to keep the pad from sticking and allow the shellac to spread more easily. It will actually come to the surface as the shellac cures, and the majority of it will be wiped off. Generally, you wouldn't want to use olive oil on a fretboard, as it doesn't dry, and it will go rancid and smell funny.