I use to weld for 28 years in fact . I was a weld inspector for 12 years . How they welded the bracket on the tubing seem all wrong to me .I would have put plates under the brackets , or used heavier tubing . What they did wrong is weld against the grain of the steel . Be careful when you weld to weld with the grain . I like your videos they are very fun to watch. Thank you .

adjust the clevis on the end of the ram so frame doesn't bend when opening up , job done . you start welding that beam all on 1 side it will bow like the beam in the old baler.

I t hink that's a very good idea Wes, right Tim, it makes it much stronger.....💪

finally someone that has the know how to take a flex out of something, you cant beat a truss, a truss is were you weld on stand off any were from 6" to a foot a part and weld on another peace of tubing, pipe, channel, what have you, same way they build a bridge, I see far to many video's of even welder in the trade just scab on a flat bar and call it good, its no dam good, you have the right idea I be leave, if I am under standing your plan, I been a class A welder and fabricator for over 30 years, I hate having to go in after and re-do others half ass attempts

It will be nice to see the finished product. It reminds me of a Chucky tractor build video, if its half as strong as his tractor frame it will hold together!!

Just tip the rake up and fill the tube with concrete. Small aggregate and a little CaCl2 for fast drying/curing.

Good video I enjoy watching them day to day

You could drill 1" holes along the box section then slide another thick walled box section inside that one and plug weld it. Grind them nicely and paint. Invisible modification. Perhaps gusset out from each side of the bracket where the ram pushes too..

Just not sure if I would go ahead with that mod my young friend, its on warranty, and give them a call and see what they have come up with. You paid good money for that rake, just to start bubblegumming a wicked thought, that I think you're on the right track, however it is not needed. H&S can work with you on that project. I really like your ambition tho! Not scared to do some shit

One mans junk is another mans treasure. a scrap man came by my farm other day wanting scrap iron I told him I had plenty but he would have to wait until I quit farming I'm still using it to farm with, so Mr. Koop maybe Wes is still using it.

looks like a good idea Wes

How about letting the big fat cilinder goin a bit slower ? with a washer with little hole in the tubes

Don't forget to paint it YELLOW just to confuse the New Holland, Case IH, Heston, watchers...........

i wouldn't be surprised if the company that makes the those rakes, adds that little modification if it works

Glad you got rain

When those wear out have you considered the Kuhn Speed Rake 2? I ran mine over 300 Acers last year and didn't have a bit if trouble. I just gave 6500 for mine.

put a flow reducer valve in the pipe line to slow the lift down so not so much stress on the frame

The splayed wheels suggest that as the locus of needed improvement..... But, you looked at the improved versions of the same equipment as well as other designs.....!?!!? All the best!

+onelonleyfarmer you should do a cold start video on your newholland combine

You could add steel inside the tube. Or how about adding a third hinge right above the lift cylinder, that would eliminate the flex right at the source.

why don't you slide a tube inside that tube and cut hole on outside and weld two together and end

I would almost bet that a lot of the frame twisting problems is from the leverage of the wings swinging back and forth when traveling down the road. It needs a cradle to sit in when folded that would transfer weight onto the tongue and take the whipping force off the main rock shaft beam

hey wes I got a couple questions about your rake mods. why not move your cylinder to the pivots on the end then add another to the other side so your not stressing the middle of the tube and your using the "hinges" to take the force... that was it won't have and possible way on bending and then toeing out your wheels

I would have used angle iron and boxed over the original beam. Welding it to the original beam doubling the strength and thickness of the original beam. I would have to remove the arms and also welded the attachment points to the additional iron.

i do cnc plasma cutting and could cut and ship at cost if you ever need anything

Grinding on a brand new piece of equipment. Ballsy! Are u going to do this to the other rake too?

For the strengthening gusset how about 3 or 4 inch angle iron (open side ) against the rear edge of the box section which will make a triangular cross section. A triangle is stronger than a box.

Have you done anything with the TR70?

im a long time viewer and love the vids, but i have a question/idea : Why does your farm look like a freaking junkjard ?

have you considered adding an orifice in line to slow down the lift

Onelonleyfarmer check out rowse rakes in central Nebraska, good quality rakes they are very popular around here

is the beam hallow or solid

Would slowing down the hydraulic action help?

By making that improvement won't that void the warranty?

hope h+s sees this, if it was my company I would want to make it right and change future builds to solve the problem

Would a heavy wall n steel pipe work better Wes? Instead of a square tube!

Hi Wes, why don't you try to solve the problem hydraulic: like a damper (nitro-ball) or a restrictor? I think it is because the oil flow from the John deere is to great, which causes a sudden force on the structure. Just an idea.

Whould you not like a plasma cutter? seems cheaper and easyer to torch with that :)

I would trade out for some radial tires anyway I work for a company that sells those tires and the over sell them saying they will do this and that and they don't so that might help make em last longer and with your trusses will help a lot as well

just buy a krone rake. perfect for you.

so you want strength between the raise cilinder and the hinges wat I would do is taper cut the box section end to end so you end up up with two equal pieces and weld the open end to the original boxsection on the rake with the taper going to the hinges www.mcdonaldbrosracing.com.au/images/backbrace.jpg it be about as strong as you can make it with the least amount of weight still have to deal with the twisting itself ........it might help to remove the big lift cilinder and replace it with two smaller ones mounted straight under the hinges , to put them there you need to add on cilinderbrackets to the hinge brackets to hold the cilinders it will transfer the load to the sides of the pullframe instead of the main towbar and you need balljoints in the front of the hydraulic cilinder to be able to mount the cilinders under and angle under that frame or build outriggers so they mount straight across from the hinges with the two cilinder under the hinges the pull is supported by the hingehalves on both sides and the frame simply whont bend unless one of the wheels gets stuck and you use a lot of force to pull it out might not even need to brace the beam after that mod

take that bale put in one of your ditches to reduce soil erosion

If it's out of sight from the public I see no problem with it. I'm with some of the rest and will say when you are trying to farm, repairing equipment and managing the financial aspects of a farm then cleaning up the junk is probably not high on the list.

can you do a walk around the tr 70

or add another hinge at the cylinder?

Where did you get your hat???

they should replace that beam with a big ass pipe with a plate welding ontop

what white machine is that at 3:25 and where it used for??

Is this "rake" sometimes called a "swather"?

if i was you i wouldnt even risk it, just cut all the arms and fingers off that beam and replace it with a heavier one. its literally just a few fingers and arms to re weld.

Just remove the center cylinder. There is really no need for it. Our Kuhn rakes don't have it.

That's a H-S for ya!! Get a Kuhn rake their built a lot better!! See if u can get them to demo one!!

Mr pandy why wouldn't you just slid a heavy tube in the inside and plug weld it

wes you called it channel iron is it not box section ???.. should be good and strong anyway...

I still dont understand what the point of that hydraulic cylinder is.

1"X3" welded on edge across the back should stop it.

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OK now repeat that what's your plan...lmao...

why do americans use such different hayrakes? In europe almost everyone uses rotary rakes.

I just hate f effing up a nice looking piece of iron, sandblast and paint to make look good again, or look like p.o.s. Just frustrates me to no end.

It will be nice to see the finished product. It reminds me of a Chucky tractor build video, if its half as strong as his tractor frame it will hold together!!

or add another hinge at the cylinder?