Love the videos, Mike. Your depth of knowledge and attention to detail are wonderful to see. Thanks for sharing, I really appreciate what you do. Ride safe

Thank you Mike. Between you and Tatro, I've learned alot.

Thanks Mike. You're the Bob Ross of motorcycle repair; making an otherwise intimidating project seem like a relaxing way to spend a day. I'm really diggin your videos!

Another great video! I honestly feel a lot more confident tackling my first transmission tear down and rebuild this winter. That could be next week where I’m at it seems. Sheeeesh. Frost warning already last night. Yuck!! Thanks for what you do. Your videos really help a lot of folks. Myself included.

Cool video as always brother! Love it when guys like you show everything! And don't try and make it look like, parts just go together without problems! Like they do on TV!

Man you nailed this one,, awesome,, if anyone knows anythindg about a pan or shovel,,knows,, MIKE Thanks,, from Alabama

Thank you for the video! Very informative!

Great video Mike so glad your friend didn't go buck low it just never works out well! Look forward to your next installment.

Great series of videos! It would be helpful to illustrate what to look for when determining that a gear has seen better days.

THANK YOU...for sharing.

Thanks Mike!

Mike if you ever need a break from working on bikes, I’d say you’d make a great DJ! Definitely got the voice and temperament! Carry on bro!

Hi Mike, just did my main shaft seal (leaked like a sieve) and took the 49 out for a spin, no leaks!! I think Gary Cooper was last one into the gearbox in the early 90's. The 50 motor should be ready around the first part of Sept and the trans following. Could have been sooner but they took 2 weeks to go to Bonneville with an Indian. Keep at it. It would be cool if you mentioned when and where to use impact tools. My Super Max silent drive specifically says NO IMPACT on the motor pulley. A guy could easily make a boo boo and destroy something expensive and hard to replace. Best regards, John

Thank you for the great series Mike. And if you ever want to "donate" that junk transmission, I might be able to do something with it...

Thank you

Greetings Mike! This is David up in Atwater, California. I'm a fan, and I have watched most of your vids. I am doing my first transmission now. It's a pretty decent 65 4 speed out of my 75 Fx Harley. It's been in the bike forever and has always operated perfectly. What it began to do is not stay in 4th gear. Sometimes it would go in fine, and stay in gear with no problem. But once in a while it will not stay in 4th. No other symptoms. No noises or grinding or anything unusual. Nothing in the fluid either. Fluids perfect. So it just doesn't want to stay in 4th sometimes. I can't get a hint anywhere or from anyone as to what it could be. I like to at least have a hint as to what is wrong before I begin a job, ya know? Will you please tell me what you think. about why it might not want to remain in 4th gear like that? So keep up the good work Mike! I hold you in high regard and I hope I run into you at the swaps in the future.

Thanks for the series, loved them. Do you also have them for a rotary top?

Hello Mike, I go back and forth with your videos depending what I'm tackling. With regards to the fourth gear drive gear I'm curious as to how much end play there should be with the sprocket, seals, etc. and nut in placed and torqued. The transmission is a stock 4 spd. for a '68FLH. I found the spec for the countershaft end play easily, but having a hard time with the fourth gear drive gear play. What do you like to see for this end play and what does the factory call for?

awesome content! just curious to know if there is a torque spec for the kicker cover and mounting studs... other than tight but dont crack the case. this video was EXTREMELY helpful. thanks

Always great videos, can you tell me, us, about the gearing sets ?. Don't know what's in my el, but I'm building a '58 pan and I have my notes about using the 25 tooth drive gear for better cruising, but what about the gear sets, 2.00, 3.00, 3.50, what's the ideal gear set? Thanks Rick

Hi Mike, one question about the tightening torque of the main shaft nut. In Clymer Manual, it’s written 69-83 N.m which, to my point of view, is well too tightened. Do you have an other torque? Thank you for your videos, great explanations and an easy to understand diction for a French guy!

Hello Mike, hope all is well. I'm really hoping you can help me with a tricky question. I've been making numerous repairs to a '68FLH that had been restored years ago by someone other than myself, but not overly correctly!! Had some transmission lid and starter issues that I am working through. Changed from a hand shift lid back to a ratchet lid. It had the '70 and up clutch shell and starter ring gear in it, in which the starter ring gear was chewed. I installed the correct clutch shell and starter ring gear ('65 - '69). That being stated I then reused the clutch plates which were all in good shape. I then had a problem with the clutch not fully disengaging. I slightly opened the holes up on the 5 friction discs and I also installed a ram jet retainer in hopes that this would give me enough stroke to fully disengage the clutch. I did all that and it still is not fully disengaging, so I had to remove all the slack at the hand lever so it does not grab. Frustrating!! Since I did not put the transmission together I have no idea whether someone put a '70 and up mainshaft in or if it has the correct '65 - '69 mainshaft. The '70 and up is 1/2" longer apparently and uses a 1/2" longer clutch pushrod. Can you please advise to how much of the clutch pushrod should be sticking out past the clutch hub nut with the clutch release arm almost against the starter? I think this is the only way I can determine if I have the right year mainshaft in my transmission. Maybe this is causing me some issues with the clutch not fully disengaging??

Replacing my 2nd gear bushing (35791-36) and the new one has a chamfered edge on one end. Thould that go towards the retaining washer (35811-36) on the kicker side of the trans... or towards the sprocket side of the trans?

Hi Mike! I am rebuilding a late model 4 speed transmission right now with cages bearings in the countershaft. I had to remove and replace my countershaft bearings, but the manual doesn’t say what depth the new bearings should be pushed into the countershaft cluster. Would you have any information to share? I found a forum saying that the low gear side should be .130 in from the shoulder and the high gear side should be .180 in from the shoulder. Is that correct? Thanks for all your detailed videos!

Hi Mike. Thanks for all these videos, they’re very helpful. Wondering if you might be able to help here. At 12:08 you mention/show a spacer on the outside of the gear. This spacer is not shown in my manual (late 77 with caged rollers), nor is it present in my transmission, and the lack of it would very much explain why I have so much countershaft end play (.035” even with a .105” thrust washer in position) Any chance you could give a part number or reference any literature where I could find it? Thank you so much

Love your videos Mike! Im working in a Big Twin Flatehad 4 speed trans, can you please tell me the OD meassurement of the main shaft bearing race?. The case that I have looks like diferent than yours Thanks

Mike, thank you for your recent reply to another query of mine. With regards to the shifter forks and their shims, I am having a hard time getting the correct alignment. Now in the HD 59-69 manual it shows that each shifter fork has one standard spacing shim between the shifting finger and the fork and then there can be a variable amount of .007 and .014" spacing shims on both sides of the fork. Have you ever had to remove the "standard spacing shim" from the finger side and substitute it with perhaps a .007" or .014" shim to get the alignment you need? I ask because it appears that this is what I would need to do to get the alignment I am looking for. Is there a reason I cannot do as I described? Thank you.

Mike help me! Swapping cases, I took the original race that fit my mainshaft and needle bearings, pressed it into my replacement case and it seems to have shrunk maybe a thou! I can’t fit 4th gear in by pressing, I have to pursuance it in with a mallet! What should I do! I don’t want to leave a bearing out but should I be skeptical about having someone honing it and doing it straight and right? Some people have said that’s not typical

ok, now that I am fitting and setting end play, I see a spec for gear backlash as .003-.006 - how would that be checked - and how to change if necessary?

Mike I have a question. I completed my S&S shovel engine build this week and ordered my frame. I have 90 days until my frame arrives and in that time I am going to build a 4 speed transmission - all new. I like to punish myself searching for parts and assembling stuff. I do not know whether I should go ratchet top or rotary - I found a new ratchet top case but wanted to get your opinion if rotary would provide some kind of noticeable performance or maintenance benefit?

Mike I'm trying to put a new drive gear spacer on my pan the new spacer won't go over the splines it slides over the threads fine but the splines are .02 " bigger than the spacer

Hey guys, one thing I discovered, by drawing/layout on CAD, is that there is only .0002 clearance, circumference wise, on stock size needle bearings for the main drive gear. So as soon as you jump to a .0004 or bigger oversize bearing it is physically impossible to fit the 44th needle bearing because of the lack of clearance circumference wise. I drew out all case scenarios for diameter clearances and the only way you could fit that 44th bearing would be with a hammer, which would not be good for a smooth rolling main drive gear. So anytime you have oversize needle bearings on your main drive gear with all the proper diameter clearances, you will have to leave out that 44th needle bearing, which is probably why this tranny only had 43 needle bearings.

It is a real pity that good parts for old Harley transmissions are so hard to come by nowadays. I am totally on your side when you say "I took that thing apart anyways; let's replace all the stuff that wears". But in my experience it is very often better to buff the old stuff up and keep it. Especially when it comes to thrust plates and shims. A slightly scored OEM Harley thrust washer from 1965 out of a 50,000 mile Sportster transmission will still outlast the new aftermarket one if you hit that thing with some 1000 grit on the surface plate.....

Mike, can I check my shifter forks with the trans in the bike?1999 Flhtp

I just found you so this may sound like a dumb question but is there any difference between a 50 and a 65 transmission case.

Not looking for an endorsement... but curious where you buy a new 4 speed transmission?

My 4 speed will not go into neutral?? Where should I start??