Yes

If the pilot light stays lit and the burners stop heating before temps are reached it is a faulty thermostat generally. There are pitco fryers that have a “melt” mode that purposefully pulses the burners which won’t get hot enough but will constantly turn on amd off. Make sure that’s not happening.

Define “turns off”. Does the pilot drop out and you have to relight it?

@@restaurantrepairs Yes it drops out.

@@hkaya-jq9xu What has changed recently? Did it work fine before? If the pilot drops out when the thermostat satisfies that’s generally wired wrong. The therm is interrupting the pilot valve AND the main valve. If it worked fine before you could be having a gas valve failure but that seems less likely. Im gonna lean- A wire got pulled off on accident during filtering or something and was reconnected on the wrong valve terminal

The original pitco thermostats on my converted units were solid state electronic and stupid expensive (hence why I like to dumb things down. Pitco also thinks thier fancy piece of bent steel to house the mechanical thermostats are worth 400.00. Good eyes to see my rig. Here’s a link to what was originally installed.. www.partstown.com/pitco/ptb2005401

@@restaurantrepairs I understand that but I'm just curious why not gutted the inside and replace with stat at your choice? I just think the oem housing is nicer looking than 4" hd box. Also you still could wired in the on/off switch. Will you be doing t-stat mod, part, etc in the future? Thanks for all the videos.

Yeah I have a pitco conversion on my todo list. I take sg14 electronic ignition fryers and convert it to a millivolt system. 4 components, none electronic, lasts forever I expensive to fix literally you can pressure wash the inside. As you see there’s some low rent modifications I do instead of purchasing the oem housings.

There’s a one time use double nut system. The larger plug goes in with the cap tube run thru. Then set to length and tighten the smaller nut which compresses a brass dot and seals the connection.

So you don’t need to apply any sealant paste at the bolt?

@@AnTran-eg6qm correct. You do not… that’s a food contact point, so codes restrict the ability. It’s designed to seal tightly without tape or sealant on the outer nut as long as you thread it in far enough. Then the inner nut expands the copper teardrop inside to make a metal custom seal. I don’t think I’ve ever had on leak unless I was trying to reuse it

Hard to say from just that. Delayed ignition could be a bad gas valve, or if the system has intelligence or could be an electronic relay issue.

Do you mean the burners don’t ignite when you set the dial to 200 but if you turn it all the way up it does? Check oil temp. If the oil is less than 200 but won’t fire the burners it’s simply a bad (out of calibration) thermostat. If you set it for 400 I bet it doesn’t hit 400 before it turns off the burners. Confirmation bad therm

I don’t mess with too many deans. If you lite the pilot and it stays on, then turn the thermostat on but it doesn’t activate the burners, statistically bad thermostat (or temp probe) depending on your model. It isn’t lighting because it thinks it’s at temp. The next statistical probability is a bad gas valve that won’t open the main valve. For that one jump out the valve with the pilot power and see if it opens.