Good advice Chris !

My brother just replaced his pump, they had a hard time breaking the system loose from the pitiless adaptor. 189 feet of 1inch steel pipe. The pump broke off the pipe just as it was coming out. He said the well company said the pump was locked up. First time the pump was pulled, installed in 1977 lasted until 2020.

I think a torque arrestor helps reduce the problem of the wiring rubbing against the casing due to the downpipe twisting at startup. Exposed wiring has caused many, many wells to need servicing. Cable guards are great too but I never know how many to use.

Great knowledge

Thank you - great advice!

I use them to center the pump in the pipe because we have extremely rocky ground and it's almost impossible to drill a straight pipe. There can be 3 or 4 inches of offset in a 200 foot pipe.

Very helpful tutorial on this subject, thank you. Happens I am replacing what I'd thought was a malfunctioning 25+ year old 1/2 hp "Red Jacket Grizzly" (ITT).... (on 75 ft of wire) Upon inspecting the wiring after I got it up, I see two deep nicks in the wiring, about a foot above the pump, and perhaps they were the source of the trouble. Was thinking I'd need an "arrestor" to prevent such cuts in future -- yet your overall counsel and esp. at min 6:00 -- more wrap -- suggests a better way.

Good videos.

They're also good for keeping the wire from rubbing against the casing. It's a problem when the well isn't perfectly vertical, or there's a curve to the pipe. The wires get rubbed every time the pump kicks on or off. Cheap prevention. I'd recommending using a couple (or more) at a time. I'm not an expert, I've just felt the pain.

Thanks

As you mentioned, the casings aren’t perfectly straight. Wouldn’t it be a good idea to use a torque arrester or pipe cantering clamp to keep the wires and pipe centred the whole way up the well? Or is that too much overkill?

How do you get the torque arrestor past the pitless adaptor?

Will nu-well tablets make it past the arrestor?

do arrestors exist that are slightly smaller than 4 inches? I've got well that has some corrosion in well wall and I can't get 4 inch arrestor to fit.

Could the lack of a torque arrestor cause the pump to be bumping the casing and causing the water to have lots of black manganese? Because I had my pump replaced 2 years ago and ever since it has had lots of manganese coming out whereas the 30 years prior never had that problem.

The wire at the motor was always wearing in to, so I put a torque arrestor like the one in your video just above the motor. Now the wire wears all along the PVC casing up to 50 ft. above the motor. I use 10-2 w/ground UF wire, taped to pipe every 5 ft.. I just pulled it out and the wire was worn completely in to 10 ft. above the motor. It lasted about 5 years. The pump is 151 ft. deep with a 1.5 hp motor. Is there something I can install to protect the wires from wearing?

Chris, If you do use a torque arrestor, how do you run the wires from the submersible pump through the torque arrestor to prevent wire chafing and rubbing? ... Video idea :) ?

When you say, wires go inside the torque arrestor; do you mean they go underneath(inside) the pipe clamps? Seems like that would stress the wire and also compromise the grip on the drop pipe.

5:59 that's what she said

I have a 500 feet deep water well tHat i personally installed the 3 H pump in it , and i forget to instant the Toque Arrestor , well 3 years later one day i noticed that the pump stop working , after checking all found out the pump had to be pulled out the problem was in the well , so after pulling it out about 110 feet realized the 1" pext pipe coupling have broken off i come to think of it that the problem started from the get go if the pipe was all one piece i don't think this would have happened OR at leased would have happen much later , and now the remaining 350 feet of pipe jammed in well with motor so bad the 1/2" nylon rope broke off last resort was to pull it by the 4 wire horniest and you gassed it , that broke off from rite at the top of the pump , now i only have one try more before i have to stick another $ 10.000 more in a different spot , and that is spend more money in equipment and try to catch that pipe at around 110' to 350' deep , i think all of this because was the bad splicing and (NO ARRESTOR) WHAT DO YOU THINK?.

My well is 20 ft with plastic pipe. A couple months ago I had 55volts in my basement. Found the issue in the well. The extra wire to pull the pump had rubbed and shorted. Why did this happen after 30 years went through my mind. Now I have a problem with the check valve, I pulled the pump and found the torque arrestor in pieces. I feel the torque arrestor gave out, then allowed the cable to move. It was not even the wire down to the pump. It was the extra wire at the top!!

The pump I’m putting in next week is a 1hp 220 three wire (so there’s 4) but it says on the box use a 15 amp breaker, that sounds super low and the old one is 30. Am I missing something? Are they talking about 15 amps per 120 leg? Thanks.

Great video! I’m looking to have a pump on “standby”, as my pump is over 25 years old. Amazon has a Hallmark brand pump 3/4 hp, 2 wire for $170.00. Is this a decent brand pump? My well is about 85’ deep, pump is at 50’ (I’ve been told).

they coudn't engineer the pumps to spin the other direction and save us all the cost of left-hand threads?

"motor torque can unthread itself from the pipe" ... that seems like stupid engineering. Why not have the spin direction the other way to keep that from happening?

All nice in casing ,casing only goes to bedrock then open hole.,taping the first stick is common practice but won't help torque lol 0 to 3800 rpm .....torque arrestor are absolutely important pump then 20' then 100 ' after that ...also don't forget check valves !!!!!! Displaces weight of water in drop pipe and saves thrust on water end ...3rd Gen well mechanic ..just sayin

Will you get to the torque arrestor already........omg

My casing stops at 130 feet but my well is 220, wouldn’t the hole diameter below the casing be bigger? If you adjust the torque arrestor for the casing, how do you know how big the diameter below the casing is?