Love have there is no editing! Classic!

I wonder why pump manufactures did not design the pump so that they start in the direction of the pipe thread, so that the start of the pump will tighten the connection instead of trying to loosen it up...?

Thank you for posting this video. I was worried about installing my residential well and was not sure about this part. I feel much more confident now.

We used them in the past, I'm a residential plumber and not a well driller. I do work on pumps a lot though. I stopped using them because of what you said in your video but also because on a couple rare occasions I have ran into what you call a 4" PVC packer/screen inside the well casing. My first was a install that I got stuck not knowing it had a packer and then just yesterday my buddy had one that someone had put in years ago and it took us hours and a rig truck to pull the Torque arrestor up through. In my opinion I wouldnt use them ALONE for your reason stated and mine!

Always wondered about those. We don't use them. All of our stock wells are 3/4 hp or less so nice to know we were doing it right. Thanks and keep them coming!

Thanks for making these videos. I have learned a lot..

Good informative video. Addressed all pertinent issues!

Nice, im planning to buy a submersible water pump for my farm in the Philippines, thanks for the info.

These guys are pros! They drilled my well here in the Upstate of South Carolina. Its nice to have them so close to home...lol I was talking to my neighbor and told them about Wendell Lee services and in might be another job soon for Wendell Lee!

Thanks, very helpful.....replacing old pump & pipe DIY

They are 100% necessary on smaller pumps like 1/2 horsepower. Not only does the pump want to twist but it also shakes and vibrates. Unless the driller is 100% dead straight which most of the time they aren't the wire will lay on the side of the well somewhere down the well. If the wire is touching everytime the pump kicks it will wear right through the copper over the years. I see this all the time on unprotected pumps and in my area I mostly deal with 1/2 and 3/4. It's not on all of them but on 80% of the wells the wire will be laying. Very rarely will a driller get the well in dead plum especially with older drill rigs

great video, ive seen so many that dont flare the arrestor outward at all.

Thanks for the good videos. I have learned a lot from y’all about my well. I am changing my pump today, and was wondering if I need an arrestor. My well is only 60’ and the pump is 1/2 HP. So I won’t install one. Thanks again.

I love you videos!

good information

I am putting a submersible pump into a well that is about 370 ft, I am going down 200 ft with the pump, does well casing go all the way to the bottom of the well? Previously had a 100 ft jet pump in the well. Do you always put torque arrestor just above pump? Thank you for the video and the help!

Whats your opinion on the best pump brand on a 500 ft well

I've got gotta a question for you. I'm putting in a new 1 hp pump at 225 ft. At the 93 ft level my inside hole diameter changes. The inside of my pipe is 6-1/4" until you reach the 93 ft mark then it gets smaller somewhere around 4-1/2" to 5". How can I tell what it is without lowering and raising the pump over and over again ? That would be a pain in the rear !!!

Great vid and helpful info. So, it's safe to say that in a 0.5HP you don't need one?

Could the lack of a torque arrestor cause the pump to be bumping the casing and causing the water to have lots of black manganese? Because I had my pump replaced 2 years ago and ever since it has had lots of manganese coming out whereas the 30 years prior never had that problem. 400 ft. well

A well log says I've got 40' of 6" casing with a 4 1/2" liner running from 15' to 75'. Can I just set the arrester to about 4 1/4" diameter? That also has to clear a pitless adapter.

Thank you for the video! Quick question, does the torque arrestor clamp on around/on top of your wire? I'm guessing so to keep it from chaffing your wires.

Thanks for the info. I'm now preparing to have a well dug, It was my understanding that not only does a torque arrestor help prevent the unscrewing of the pump from the pipe but it also helps prevent chafing of the wire inside the hole and or casing. Is that correct ? and if so is a torque arrestor worth it for that aspect. Also how do you feel about "Well Hose" compared to PEX, schedule 80 PVC, etc.

I have heard newer pump it start up slowly and dont need the torque arrestor.

I have a 40-60 pressure switch, how do I get more pressure in the house? Bigger tank?

I’ve replaced a couple 1 1/2hp, 400 ish feet deep. While we have those arresters on the truck we haven’t used them. We use sched 120 drop pipe, dope and bury every thread.

P.s. what about plastic coil piping; also the round spacers, which are supposed to keep everything from rubbing? Ed c

Hello sir, I hope you're doing good. I need an expert advice from you. I dug up a 400 ft well and when we were installing the casing, we accidentally dropped about 260ft (230kg) of casing down to the bottom of the well. I had no choice but trying the submersible pump to check if the well is still working or not and it went down only to 300 ft, pumping water for 15 minutes only. I assume that the casing under 300 ft are badly damaged and smashed, and I have no idea how to fix this problem as we don't have expertise here. Looking forward for your advice and thank you.

How does this get past a pitless adapter ???

Over or under the wire ?

Great video, thanks for the tip. We lost our pump from the threat coming loose. Well company who did the install is no longer in business!!! Go figure

"get ready Brian, you'll have to do some editing on this portion" (Narrator) Brian wasn't ready.

Torque arrestor on the pipe, which has no torque, nothing on the pump, which generates the torque, and could unscrew if fittings are too loose. Am I missing something? Ed c

Not using a torque arrester next time! I tried pulling my pump (1HP Grundfos on PVC pipe) yesterday as I had no water flow , its an older well with a 4" casing about 65 foot deep, The pump would come up to the pitless adaptor but then would jam, I hesitated to pull too hard as I didn't want to loose the pump after about 2-3 hours I was loosing faith that I'd ever see it , Very hard to see what was jamming the pump as the pitless adaptor is about 5 feet below ground. Luckily I have a small backhoe capable of digging down about 5' to the area of concern, I was able to cut the 4 inch PVC (well top ?) therby exposing the top of the pump and adaptor, to my suprise I found large pieces of the torque arrestor jamming the top of the pump and not allowing it past the adaptor! Came up easily after removing the useless arrestor. I never even suspected there might be one on it. I found a broken wire on the pump, repaired and back down she goes, I plan on checking the pump again in a couple months for torque issues . Great video thanks

Well dia is 6 5/8 make the arrestor 4.5 inch's inch around space to prevent hitting rock collapsing the well....

I always used them with Eagle threaded plastic drop pipe. Peace of mind more than anything. Another critical thing with plastic threaded drop pipe is the use of medium set pipe dope. Don't allow the pump's torque to work against the thread set. Torque arrestors and centering devices along with medium set pipe dope are cheap insurance. Overkill? Maybe, but why take the chance? Your customer will try to blame you anyway for any pull that happens within the first 10 yrs. I never met a well driller that had a straight casing....most are pretty awful, especially deep ones. Arrestors and centering devices keep your set from continually rubbing.

Thanks for letting me know I don't need it

👍👍🇨🇦✌️🇨🇦✌️🔧🔧

a.k.a. pump wedges . . .

Been a installer 3 rd generation and yes torque arrestors are just as important as check valves ..learn the trade!

Torque arrestors keeps drop pipe centered protect the wire lol where did you get your info? Hope your supply house sees this and you correct your video

The burp was unnecessary, and gross