You are one of the most useful KZfaq mechanics. You give great descriptions and so what to do very nice

Man, keep these videos going. You are so thorough and explain things so easily

Excellent. When reinstalling, its a good idea to coat them with anti-seize. Instead of counting the turns with the adjustment nut, I simply measured the top of the bolt, to the base of the brace. DO NOT USE A REGULAR C-CLAMP - BUY THE RIGHT TOOL. The truck HAS to be off the ground to do this correctly. You need to get as much tension off the keys as possible. Funny story.. I bought my truck new (custom order), and when I picked it up, it had a slight lean to the left. I asked why it was like that, and the dealer said it was probably because of the 35 gallon tank full of fuel. It always bugged me, but I motored on. When it came time to rebuild the front end, I discovered that the driver side torsion key adjustment bolt wasn't even touching the key! I guess the factory forgot to set it. Drove it for 15 years like that. Now it rides flat like it supposed to.

man thank you so much, i was so scared of my torsion bars before this video. i really appreciate it, ive changed every single thing on the front suspension and still have a wobble. Im on a time crunch and this shows me i know i can do my lower control arm bushings in one night and still get to work the next day hahaha

Thank you for your video. That torsion bar scared me until watching this.

This makes me way less afraid to tackle leveling keys on my k3500! Thank you

Thanks for making this and future obs videos

I wish it were that easy for my Yukon. Another crossmember and a fuel tank prevent good hammer strikes. The torsion bar became one with the lower control arm and the key. Had to cut the key out. Now trying to find stock key replacements. Still great video!

I have just done this on my 1999 Tahoe 4x4. I needed to disconnect the muffler flange so that the pipe would go out of the way, like it does in your video @2:00. I also used the OTC 7822 tool, which has worked out better in my case, as it has a slanted side towards the exhaust for extra clearance. There is another version, OTC 7832, which has equivalent shape to the OEM tool that you are using. However, I must say I find both either OTC versions BETTER than OEM, because their use of 7/8-14 thread vs. the 7/8-9 thread that the OEM tool in this video is using.

One thing Ive done as a DIY beginner is mark how the bar is loaded into the keys at both ends with paint. That way you know for sure you will load it exactly how it was. Otherwise it is possible to not have it loaded into the lower control arm right.

If you have a rusty truck like mine it’ll be seized. Easiest way I found was to cut a notch in the crossmember to give me space to pull the torsion bar lower and cut a relief slot in the torsion key. Once I did this the key popped free immediately. I welded the cross member back up on both sides on the bench, hit it with black paint, and it’s good as new. Slide the new keys on and you’re done. Takes like 2 hours Helps if you’re a journeyman welder I guess lol

Excellent video. Very well explained. Thank you sir.

Great explanation thank you

Thank you so much for this.I am replacing a transfer case on a GMC3500 out in the Arizona desert and this cross member needs to be removed to get it out. I went ahead and bought the tool from Amazon.

Just the job im doing! Front suspension 1992 sub. Removing lower control arm now having a shop put in new parts i have.

Badass video!! Thanks man!! 👍

Thank You!! my friend for the video!

if your removing them altogether, I can only assume you're doing lower a arm bushings and ball joints. Excited for that video, as I'm preping to do it myself!

Muchas gracias mi pana me fue de gran ayuda saludos desde el ecuador

great video

Good pace on the video and excellent explanations of every step. One thing though, you MUST avoid scratching the torsion bars which can/will lead to a crack and failure.

I did my 89 GMC,the bars wouldn't budge hammering them the easiest way was the put a portapower with a bolt on an open end a good amount of pressure and it

Even though yours was rusted, you got lucky, I've pounded on the end of my torsion bar trying to remove it and so far have no luck. I am going to try CRC freeze off on the torsion bar, see if that helps. I've never used it before, but would rather not heat the metal, since it is a spring metal, I don't want to heat it up. But most of the heat would be on the torsion key anyway, which is getting replaced. So if the freeze off doesn't work, I'll get the torch.

When re installing, do you have the tire hanging freely or do you jack the tire up, putting the weight on torsion key as it's lowered, if that makes sense

Hey thanks a lot I’m going to get one of those

Very helpful. Thx.

Yeah right tap on the end i have never seen one come out that easy

Thanks I’m doing this today

Thank you

Oh WHOA!

Most excellent videos, Dan! Been thinking about replacing control arm bushings while I'm half way there doing ball joints on my '98 Tahoe 4WD but not looking forward to working on my back from a creeper... wish I had high lift! It has "only" 206k miles so it could probably wait a little but since everything else will be new... So thinking about the rusted-in torsion bars others have been "cussing" ;) over (and you started off praying over - too funny!) got me thinking. Once the bars are fully unloaded, wouldn't there be enough play to just drop the lower swing arms down a little below the frame mounts to be able to slide the swing arm forward and off the torsion bar left in place with a hanger wire? That would avoid taking out the cross bar and dealing with torsion bar frozen in the key, yes? Assuming, of course, the bar isn't frozen into the control arm!

P.S. - - - - I just Subbed to your channel thanks

Hey Guys .. love the channel. I have a slight drop (sag) on the passenger side of my 1996 k1500. I rebuilt the entire front end and rear end and was surprised to see that the problem was unresolved. Could this be a torsion bar adjustment thing?

Omg.. It took PB Blaster, torch, and my plumber roommate's roto hammer to bust those torsion bars loose.

You can take some bright colored paint and paint the bolt before you remove the bolt

Great Video. If you was going to remove the lower control arm anyway, would it be easier to remove the torsion bar with the lower arm instead of removing that central cross member?

If I don’t have a lift can I Jack just the front end up and block and secure it?

Sub'd good stuff dude

What lift do you have? It looks nice. I am tired of crawling all over the ground .

Does anyone know who might make a torsion bar support mount cant find one for my 1993

Would you happen to know what size those torsion bar adjustment bolts are? I went out there the other day with a 3/4 inch socket and it was a bit loose. I'm guessing an 18mm ?

I seen where you tapped it out of the back with the bolt but how do you get the torsion bar out of the lower control arm?

My torsion bar is siezed in control arm and in the key. I cut a peice of the bar out both side solid as fuck

Just putting this out there @suburbanranch your my fricken hero

Hey I have a 94 full size blazer do you know what donor trucks I can use to replace it my torsion bar so I won't have to buy a new one?

So I am doing a 2015 k3500 and when I unscrewed the tension bolt there was no more tension and everything came out by hand floating super easy. Is there something wrong with my setup?

So the torsion bar is loaded by it being twisted and the torsion key holds it under load?

What if I just need to replace the mounts do I just put the torsion bars back in the same way? I got one side installed no hassle but the other side is the not fitting in

On my 99 silverado, one of the torsion key adjustment bolts is bent in half but still threaded in. Any suggestions on how to get it out?

Do you need to remove this to change transmission on a 89 k1500?

What is that stick you used to bang out the torsion bar

Do I have to unload the torsion bar in order to replace a lower control arm?

What if you don’t have torsion bars? I have a 250 97 Lariat LD 7700 and there isn’t any I’m lost

Is the front wheels loaded or unloaded.

Ya believe me when the one I am working on hasn't been took a part 1990 Chevy Silverado 4×4 30 years 3 grown men beat on that dam thing all day with no luck what so ever

I'm getting ready to install my torsion bars on my 97 Chevy k1500 suburban and I was wondering if there's any front suspension parts that need taken off before I crank the torsion bars? Like do shocks or anything like that need taken off before cranking them?

Can i just use a big c-clamp?

And for what purpose would this be removed???

@Suburban Ranch - Hey.....Absolutely love your ViDz buddy...Srry ....don't know your name...So whats your name....I'm Steve - with my 1988 Chevy K 1500 4x4 Silverado Off Road Edition Z-71. Well,,,, at least thats what all the stickers on the truck are saying - hell...who knows what it really is ....with all this new Technology now days it could very well be a Dodge Power Wagon dressed in chevy colors and clothes - just kidding - and trying to put a smile on your face my brother...hope it worked - Have a great day Mr. No Name....lmao Steve Capizzi Age 57 Columbus, Ohio USA And Yes - - - I am a CHEVY MAN...!!!

Brother please say tool name 🙏

That key and torsion bar had been loosened b4 video.....

Definitely not tapping it out like that

does anyone know where i can find the crossmember? my dads rotted out and its a discounted part #15727332