Thanks for sharing that process. Sounds great.

Hopefully you won’t. Good luck with your gun. Thanks for watching and commenting.

I'm glad to hear your guns are working well. I look forward to using mine for many years to come. Thanks for sharing.

are you shooting 1300fps ammo? hatfield said they recommend that speed

Since polishing the parts I can shoot any ammo through it and it cycles perfectly.

@@ReturningtoBasics does it void the warranty?

I'm not sure, but I'm not concerned with warranty. I just wanted a gun that cycled properly.

With the price of ammo these days I don't shoot to break-in any longer. The polishing worked great. Thanks for the good information.

Refer to @scottlitz3199

Thanks. It was rewarding to finally get it working.

A lot of folks don’t know the loading and firing procedures of Hatfield guns. Safety on -pull slide/action back to lock-load chamber-press button for action to close-load magazine-press red dot switch-safety off-fire. I found that with a CLEAN & POLISHED weapon and following proper technique, these guns are great! Use good ammunition too.

Yes, it took polishing mine to work, but it's as smooth as butter now. I hope it lasts for many years. Thanks for the other information Franklin. I appreciate the comments.

Thanks for the comment Clinton. Good luck hunting!

was it hard to break in

Considering I had to take it apart and polish every moving part inside - yes. However, it only took a couple of hours and it was either pitch the gun or do something to make it operational. Given the price of shells, I opted not to put a couple of hundred high brass loads through it and speed up the break in process by what I did. Good luck with your gun.

I hope you get a good one.

They're terrible.

Thanks. Good luck with your gun.

Glad to know it worked for someone else. Thanks.

Thanks. Now it shoots and handles like a dream.

I think I'll do that to every gun I purchase in the future as well. Thanks for the good suggestion.

Returning to Basics what kind of polish do you recommend?

Glad it helped. I think I will do the same as well.

I would go to an auto parts store and purchase hand valve grinding compound. You'll probably have to go to a NAPA store and then may have to get them to special order it.

Thanks. I'll consider your recommendation. I appreciate it.

I've also had neck surgery (3 of them to be exact) and had to give up clay and wingshooting 9 years ago. My kids are wanting me to dove hunt with them. I've tried reducing the recoil in my over and unders by adding weight to the stock and forearm, various recoil pads and even reduced recoil loads and it's still uncomfortable after a few rounds. I'm wondering if these 20 gauge Hatfield's will cycle the reduced recoil rounds? If they will, the reduced recoil coming out of a soft gas gun might be worth trying to get me back in the field with the kids. The majority of people I talk to say reduced recoil in 20 gauge gas guns don't cycle well and end up being nothing but aggravation....

My knowledge of reduced recoil loads is that you must have a very smooth action to get the shells to cycle. Of course, they will work in a pump shotgun but those have more felt recoil compared to a semi-auto. Our shared conditions are why I initially purchased a .410 semi auto Hatfield. Over the years I've found these things to help: 1. get a Pachmire or similar recoil pad and have it installed on your shotgun; 2. take your gun to a gunsmith and have the forcing cones relieved to the maximum; 3. shoot 2 3/4 rather than 3 inch loads. These have dramatically reduced felt recoil for me. I also have a Mossberg model 500 pump .410 that has a good recoil pad and it has mimimal recoil. I've even gone to a 243 rather than a 30-06 or 308 rifle. I also have a 6.5 Grendel on a semi-auto platform that I deer hunt with because the recoil is minimal. Good luck Chad with your situation.

@@ReturningtoBasics yea...I used to be a shade tree gunsmith (about like a shade tree a mechanic) years ago, so I do most my own gun work. Some semiautomatics simply won't eject and load light recoil loads because the action design doesn't allow cycling for the milder pressure. That's why I was curious if you had tried them on the Hatfield. I also shoot a Grendel, but mostly on the bench. I've shot about every Grendel load known to man and I've yet to be impressed with it's anchoring abilities on whitetail. Unless you spine/neck/head shoot.... most loads just pencil through them or they open up too fast inside, don't exit and don't leave a decent blood trail. I tried shooting my 243 but even the recoil from it pinches the damaged nerves and remaining bone spurs left in my neck. I finally went back to shooting my heavy bench guns (308 and 6.5 Creedmoor) in the field and running brakes on them to eliminate the recoil. When hunting thicker woods I'll even take the little Marlin 1894 357 mag out occasionally. It's put a lot of deer in the freezer over the years. As long as you run a good hardcast in it and keep the range under 125 yards, there's not much it won't harvest. Anyway, thanks for responding and I'll keep asking around to see if anyone has shot any reduced recoil loads in the Hatfiels

After the polishing job, I've successfully shot light load Winchesters through it successfully. I hate to hear the information about the Grendel. I specifically purchased it to deer hunt. I purchsed some Nosler and Alexander ammo for it. Have you used either on whitetail? I guess I'll sell or trade that upper for something else, probably a 7.62x39 upper. I have one of those and it is a deer slayer. It has very light recoil also. I have taken to shooting a 20 gauge slugger in the thick woods, however it romps on you with recoil. Also, my 308 Ruger kicks like a mule but it is a great deer rifle. My easiest to shoulder is my Model 11 Savage 243. It's really light and as accurate as can be. Good luck this year with your season.

That great information. Thanks.

I wanted the .410 but it didn't work out. Good luck with yours.

Thanks. Good luck with yours.

I polished the bolt and everything that it could touch while traveling.

Good luck with yours. I hear Kimber has a stake in the company therefore they should (I say should) be good guns. Hopefully we both will get many years out of them. Thanks for commenting.

Thanks. Good luck with your shotgun.

I hope both of our guns lasts a lifetime. Thanks!

I hope you are able to get your .410 working. I really wanted one because I have had neck problems and wanted the lower recoil. I had to settle for the 20 gauge swap. Maybe polishing all the internals will fix yours. Good luck. Yes, despite being a doctor at the university for most of my career, I'm a good ole country boy - especially now that I'm retired (and loving every minute of it). Thanks for watching and commenting. BTW, I have Malone relatives in northern Alabama. Any relation?

Hey good news I fired some rounds of Winchester through the .410 and it cycled perfectly. The fiocchi shells must have been a bad batch. The brass around the prime is bigger than it should be . Primers just knock out and get hung in the chamber ,jamming the action. Anyway thanks for your time. I'll be looking for another video to watch. From the hills of Tennessee,have a good one!

Thanks for the information. Short brass Winchester shells have been my biggest problem with this Hatfield. I know Hatfield recommends only high brass shells, but a new shotgun should be able to cycle any shell. That's why I polished everything inside until it works with just about any manufacturer's rounds. Thanks for replying. Good luck with your shotgun.

@@ReturningtoBasics im thinking about going ahead and getting the 28 gauge too. Found game loads in #6 fairly easy.

I hope you have good luck with it Jerry.

I'm hopeful mine will now work flawlessly. I'm glad you had a better starting experience. Has it held up? BTW, thanks for the comment Dewayne.

Yes it a great gun. I own 3 Hatfield SAS, 20,28,410. I had to send the 410 back. It was double feeding from to tube.

The .410 is what I originally purchased and wanted. It would not feed correctly and also jammed. Joe at Hatfield was really nice but in the end not helpful because they didn't have parts to make a repair. After 4 months I asked them to exchange it for this 20 gauge and they gladly did. It's a great looking and feeling shotgun. I hope to use it this fall for squirrels. Good luck with yours.

There is, however I had to modify this new gun in order to get it to work correctly after getting a replacement for the .410 that jammed from the manufacturer.

You’re fortunate. Many others had the same experience I did, however polishing the internal components had really helped based on the numerous comments I have received. Thanks for sharing and watching. Good luck with your SAS.

I used Crest extra whitening toothpaste, however I recommend using hand valve grinding compound. I used a Dremel tool with a small cotton buffing wheel. I polished every part that moved and all the surfaces where something slid. Afterwards I cleaned and lubricated the gun. It has cycled perfectly ever since even with light loads. Good luck with your 410.

I hope it lasts. I sure like the gun. Thanks!

That’s Right! Nothing to do with Kimber🙏🏻🇺🇸💯🤙🏻

Hopefully you can get parts.

Mine never cycled and I’m not sure at all why

I think I'd try polishing all the sliding and moving parts with valve compound, giving it a thorough cleaning and then reassembling it. That worked for me. Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting.

Unfortunately, I've already finished the repair to the gun. I'm confident if you have a Dremel type tool you can take the parts out and polish them. Get some hand valve grinding compound at your local NAPA auto parts store and work down the rough edges on every part. Then clean and reinstall everything. Try it. If it doesn't work look at where it seems to be binding and work on those parts in those areas. It's really not that hard. Good luck.

I wish I had some suggestions. I’d find a good local gunsmith and take it to him. Usually that is an adjustment on a flat piece that is moved when the bolt operates.

Make sure you push the little lever that releases the shells from the mag tube, otherwise it will be a single shot lol

You're right. That feature is not on all guns and is very important in how it functions. Thanks for watching and commenting.

I'm actually having the same problem with mine, it's like the push button has a lip it, on the inside of the feeding tube that hangs, usually on the last shell of anyone has a suggestion on how to correct drop the comment

For that problem, unfortunately I don't. I'd take it to a good gunsmith and have him or her evaluate it. Good luck.

No. I have a slug gun so I probably won't.

Good luck with yours.

Mine has had a new bolt & gas piston but what seems to have really fixed it is gently polishing down the OD of the magazine tube, any burrs & rough edges & shooting ONLY faster ammo. (1250 - 1340 fps) I found Hatfield personnel to be extremely helpful & courteous.

Do what I did, take it apart and polish every place that rubs against another. Clean and lubricate well.

Check where the shell seats in the chamber sometime there is a small bur that holds the hull from ejection if that be the problem you can remove the bur an it should eject.

@@lesharp5748 Exactly!

Yes.

Yes, take it apart and polish every moving part with hand valve grinding paste. Clean it thoroughly, reassemble and generously lubricant. Then shoot some heavy loads through it. Then see if light loads cycle through it. Good luck.

Hand valve grinding compound.

Thank you sir!

Thanks.

You’re absolutely right about that. Thanks for the comment.

True, but at this price point, people are willing to put in a little effort to make it run right rather than pay twice as much for a gun that runs a little better. A lot of people polish internals on their guns anyway, so that's good money ahead.

Agreed, and mine has functioned flawlessly ever since. Thanks Josh.