its the secret micro chip we implanted in your brain!

@@RobCosmanWoodworking I'll take 100 more

I spray every single day, 1. I rarely change the orientation of the spray from vertical to horizontal, in most instances its simply not worth it, in others it can make it a bit easier, but its rare. As for what rob was spraying I wouldnt have changed my spray orientation and would have kept it same as him. To each their own, call it a tip? I call it a personal preference. It is super easy to spray side to side in the example u gave. Its not only my pref, but most all the spraying videos i watch from furniture to cars and from other professionals. I am confident in my ability to spray and with the speed at which i spray. I spray faster than most because I have very little pauses as it is all fluid and natural. 2 The sanding sealer issue some prefer it, I personally dont bother with it, the lacquer seals it the same, sanding sealer is a bit easier to sand yes, but lacquer isnt hard to sand to begin with. It also increases your setup and cleanup time, for switching, and extra cost simply for having another product to spray, You say sanding sealer is cheaper? It depends on the lacquer u are using, I use several different ones, I like gemini as one and it is cheap, get it like 40 a gal think its a little less upper 30's but just say 40, and sanding sealer is basically same price, so aside from a little easier to sand i do not see the benefit. I use clear lacquer and tinted lacquer, as i can get it in any color someone wants it in. I mostly use conversion varnish now but it isnt the topic of the video. My biggest issue with what was said was adjusting the air in the middle of spraying. I would never ever adjust air pressure in the middle of spraying unless i needed to. But I dial my gun in before any product touches the piece i am spraying and it will stay at that setting till i am finished with the piece unless a issue comes up. So you are recommending changing air pressure in the middle of spraying a piece of furniture or cabinet to cut down on over spray? My air pressure is adjusted to achieve proper atomization for the best finish i can achieve, no more no less. If you have your gun dialed in leave it alone till piece is finished. You dont have much time to begin with using lacquer before it starts drying.

Hey, @@reality150tv , thanks for your comments, as we all have our unique approach based on experience. I was a production-level finisher for years... but have long since retired from the craft. I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on the point of changing orientation of the aircap. I've been doing it for so long now that it's become second-nature to me and the time it takes is so little that I consider it the cost of getting the results I want. The same goes for changing the air pressure when spraying confined cabinet interiors (small ones with the backs on them, that is), which was the way I was taught "way back...". Of course like any experienced finisher, I dial my gun in at the beginning of each job to ensure optimum atomization, and change it only when necessary. Confined interiors, which isn't the case if the back is off - which is the vast majority of the time for the work I do - come out that much better in my opinion. To each his own.

Happy to help Tom, the best to you!

Great point!

Well for a jarhead I must mention that unlike crayons, don’t eat the lacquer! :)

Glad you enjoyed it!

just for you!!!!

Absolutely no need, its just not necessary, simply sand with 320 on a palm sander. Sanding with 220 on a palm sander before you start spraying will also be worth a coat of base.

Sanding a finish on a flat surface is as lame as sanding the wood. Scraping, like planing, is the best way to treat the finish on a flat surface.

@@RobCosmanWoodworking I am a professional sprayer / French polisher mate. I have never used a scrapper to flat a surface between coats. Are you really saying it is "Lame" to sand the wood before coating? I will pit my techniques against yours any day, bring it on.

@@utube1818 show me your finish and I’ll show you mine….oh wait, I already did

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Yep you sure did, and it's not bad....for an amateur. Want to see my work go to Eton Collage Windsor, Kelvin Klein New York store or Beaufort Hotel Knightsbridge. And not a scrapper in sight.😂

Laquer spaying is not too difficult, fortunately wood soaks the stuff up. If you want to spray on a non absorbent surface with a 2 components metallic pigments with an effect that it changes clolor with the viewing angle it is a different story, because you have to deal with the problem to spray everywhere the same thickness of coating. That can really drive you nuts. Finishing my woodwork was never a problem for me, just get all the loose stuff away I really like to soak it off with a vaccum cleaner. I prefer different finishing, I mixed up my own oil/wax mixture which I mainly use. For a desk top I always like to use spar varnish which I roll on the wood with very nice results. Here comes sanding handy, because the scratches are good for the next coat to get a strionger connection. Just do some testing on some scrapwood and you'll get fine results. I really don't like the vapor of sprayguns but this is just a personal preference - the results of using a spraygun are always good, if you don't apply too much in one go and get gravity work agains you. Good luck!

You can also sand with 400 grit dry paper inbetween coats with excellent results.

You bet!

great minds think alike

We have a small commercial shop and I was pretty much forced to switch to mostly water borne products due to Fire, OSHA and environmental regulations. Certainly a learning curve but worth the switch.

I thinkits my best work ever

I can relate to that mate, I've seen so many of these how to spray vids where they walk around the work piece, it drives me crazy. My suggestion for it not sticking when you turn it over it just to wait for it to dry.

Thanks

Thanks Danny.

I believe that High Volume Low Pressure is your answer. Difficult to get both out of an air compressor.

@@lencranston8183 not at all. There are several HVLP guns on the market, and they produce a sub-10 PSI pressure at the aircap outlet, as the volume necessary to properly atomize the finish. These guns are usually called conversion HVLP, because they do exactly that. Oh, and by the way, the compressor's air pressure is normally set to 40 PSI and the pressure regulator at the base of the spraygun is set to approximately 10PSI. That pressure may be raised as necessary, but usually no higher than 15 PSI. I hope this helps clarify this issue for you, if not, then let's continue the discussion.

Strictly speaking everything has a shelf life, but pre-cat should be ok in a sealed tin for at least a couple of years, if it does thicken up just thin down with a drop of cellulose thinners.

@@utube1818 does it matter if it’s an acid catalyst or the other type?

@@douglaspollock102 Use pre-cat for general use internal projects, use A/C's for severer use or wetroom areas ie. Table tops, kitchen doors, bathroom cabinets.

@@utube1818Sorry, what are A/Cs?

@@MadLadsAnonymous Acid Catalyst, also know as two-pack. Once mixed these have a shelf life of a few hours to a few days.

It depends on what you mean by a crack, you wouldn't normal get the surface cracking (although in exceptionally hot weather some types of basecoats can craze, then its a wash off job and start again). If you did get a crack it would normally be on a joint in which case you would fill it. Yes you can sand down a small area then spray it in, before then coating the whole piece.

You could try out putting painters tape on one drawer side then getting it fit like that, then spray until you have half the tape thick finish on each side by just trying it in the box between coats until it fits.

I haven't tried it, but I want to next chance I get. Many people don't put finish on piston fit drawers because it's rubbing against the sides every time it's used.

I also want to experiment with using ceramic automotive turtle wax over top of lacquer to protect against scratching and fading. Hardwood boat decks use a ceramic wax for that purpose I think it's the same stuff.

Shellac requires sanding before each coat too, just for first or second coat, you should have a clean surface after that. scraper I believe is a faster way to get it done but it has a concern that the material removed, paints has difference in paint film, some of them is thinner, so you might need to pay attention not to scrape the layer off.

i have been meaning to try that but have not done it yet.....

Pre-cat refers to the catalyst already being in the solution from the supplier. The catalyst and it's chemical reaction with the lacquer is what makes the molecules join together to give you the final finish. You can also purchase post-cat lacquer where you add the catalyst just before using the product. The simple answer to spraying a brush on finish is yes, but you would likely have to thin it to an appropriate viscosity for your gun beforehand. If you're spraying in Florida and depending on how climate controlled your finishing area is, you would likely need to use some retarder to have consistant results due to humidity.

Shellac has been used for centuries and will last for years if used correctly. If applied with a rubber it will mesh with the previous coat. Don't use it on anything in a moisture environment or where it will get hot ie table top. Other than that is still one of the best looking finishes you can get.

You might get drying right at the tip, or possibly the side ports on the front, but generally not inside.

How long is your shelf life with half cat?

Does have a shelf life. Tends to yellow if left too long in the can, also starts to thicken. Don’t buy more that a years worth. This brand is the only lacquer approved for use in kitchens in Canada. That stat is 20 years old at least but still true in terms of use in the kitchen.

No, and the reason why is that lacquer starts to set up/dry rather quickly and it's really not possible to work even a medium sized area quickly enough to produce a decent finish. It drags and leaves ridges of unevenness and brush marks. You can however, use a brush (foam) on edges and in corners to soak up or apply just a touch more product. I would highly recommend you try any corner/edge foam brushing on a sample project or sample area to sort of perfect your touch and style before doing it on something that matters. It's worth the time investment to work out any kinks beforehand and your project will look well planned & professional.

I assume you mean verses a 16k shapton.. and it depends on what you want. Can you get a sharp blade with that - yes. Can you get it as sharp as a 16k - No. will you be able to tell a significant difference between 8k DMT ans 15 k Shapton - yes. Would i only sharpen up to a 8k diamond stone - no

@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thank you, that saved me a lot of money .

He also said that lacquer eats plastic. My HVLP sprayer (HomeRite) is plastic.

@barrywuthrich8530 eats certain plastics. They make plastics that are safe for it, but most plastics in your shop would be melted by it.

We’ve never had an issue with the gun clogging over night. However, we pick it up and use it the next day. If it was going to be several weeks I would probably empty and clean out.

A lacquer finish dries to the touch in minutes

I think most guns come with a tip designed for lacquer or other similar finishes. The other tips come into play with thicker material like paint.

lacquer

intro 40

Appears to be exactly what Rob was using... www.homedepot.com/p/Project-Select-Plastic-Lid-for-1-Gal-Paint-Can-1-Gal-LID/203713318

Looks like MDO, not MDF. I see veneers, I think.

You can buy them at Home Depot for about $3.00

“usually small”

check out my video here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/guB8oaqY2dOYk5c.html

@@RobCosmanWoodworking thanks, I didn’t see that one.

It doesn’t like it, as in it will consume it, unless the plastic is coated.

No, lacquer is derived from petroleum and covers a wide range of coatings. Shellac is made from the excretions of the female Lac Beetle then dissolved in methylated spirits.