Sorry im just now seeing this comment. I appreciate the kind words and glad the video helped!

So glad it helped! Thanks for checking out the video

Glad it helped man. Really hope it works out for you.

glad it helped!

Glad you enjoyed and it helped. Yeah getting enough thinner in there is critical!

Awesome!!! Glad it helped

Thanks 👍👍👍

its what special K does best lol! In all seriousness, he handed me the spray gun when i was like 14 years old and ive been doing it ever since. I dont think he had the patience for it. All i had to do was figure out how it works and it became easy.

your welcome!

Thank you!

Thanks for watching!

Awesome man!

👍👍👍

Hope my video helped at least some!

Awesome!

I used to strain every ounce of it. I stopped though because i never seen the benefits once i learned what i was doing. I have used pigmented Lacquers as well, not just clears, never an issue if you stir it well, or at least not for me.I do strain any painted finishes, especially primers. Nitrocellulose Lacquer though is a different animal. I just never seen any benefits. I bought a brand new Graco FinishPro 9.5. Absolute piece of garbage. I sold that thing quick. Turbines produce heat. Heat plus Nitrocellulose Lacquer = not good. Waterbase finishes? It probably works better. I always use a sealer with pigmented Lacquers because its a different animal. With clears, sanding sealer is just a waste of money in my opinion, the bond is not as strong as straight lacquer. Its just a cheaper product that guys will use to skip a coat or two and save some money.

Your very welcome, hope it helps

The rattle can Lacquer works very well for those small projects and we've used it as well. Great question on the dry filter. We have a water filter on the compressor, but I've sprayed 100s of gallons without it, never once had an issue personally.

Man that's awesome! So glad it helped you out. As for the filters, it really depends. Remember if they are left in the open air, they will slowly degrade on their own, so always keep them in a sealed bag if you're worried about it. I typically use them for several jobs before I replace.

@miillersconstruction maybe my face is way to close to the work :)

Yeah I've never done that. Once you do it enough, you pretty much figure it out by eyeballing it.

I use the stir stick - when I stir, I’ll pull the stick out and count how long it takes for the stream to break. My standard timing is about 6 seconds, and I’m shooting C.E. Bradley 45 degree Nitrocellulose Lacquer. I do use sanding sealer, though, because it’s easier to sand and dries a bit quicker than the actual lacquer. I’m doing many hundreds of small parts, though, so I can’t spend the time to do 4 coats, so the quicker build of sanding sealer gets it done quicker.

@@MachinedInWoodso do you spray one coat of sanding sealer and then one coat laquer? I’m looking for a quicker process for smaller parts as well. What sanding sealer do you use?

@@nathanturner8761 yes, sometimes 2 coats of sealer for high build parts. Always a quick sand between sealer and lacquer because the sealer raises the grain. I use the matching sealer from C.E. Bradley, but my understanding is that anything will work as a base, but the stuff I use has a certain amber color to it that my customer prefers.

Air, and a cotton cloth. Sometimes my hand as well. That's the beautiful thing about Lacquer, even the dust will melt back into the surface and won't usually cause adhesion issues. It never has for me, but I still remove as much as possible.

Yes but that can be very tricky! You won't be able to put on near as much product because of it being vertical. What's bad about shooting vertical surfaces in this fashion is the fact that it can run 5 minutes after you walk away from it. So it can be really tricky. In the painting world we shoot what's called a fog coat on first wait about 5 or 10 minutes and then shoot another coat on. The fog coat will tack up just enough so that the real true first coat will stick to that surface and cling to it without sagging. You could try the same thing with lacquer but it will have to be much quicker since it dries faster. I've done it before and had success.

Sorry for the insanely late response. You can try not sanding and it might look ok From a distance once finished. Up close it will look decent. But when you feel it, it will definitely be fairly rough depending on how many coats you put on.

@@miillersconstruction Thanks !!!

And I really appreciate you getting back to me!!!

I really dont pay a ton of attention to the distance between my gun and the surface. With Lacquer i usually look at the surface as im spraying and if it is laying down a smooth even coat, i keep going and stay steady. Im always looking at the surface. For reference purposes though, i would say im around 6" from the surface usually.

That's a really good question. Yes definitely a concern! Anytime we're spraying in the winter, we make sure the fireplace isn't burning. It's cold, and it sucks, but you have to be safe. The fumes are so flammable!

Sanding sealer - I'm not a fan. Production guys use it because it's cheaper and is a quick easy way to start building coats and it does sand easier. But it does not adhere as well to the surface as straight lacquer and that's a fact. Plus it can hinder clarity in my opinion. We have used it on some projects, never been a fan.

I have never had an issue with that. But I never leave it overnight.

I have never used catalyzed lacquer or non-cat. So I can't really comment on it. I know the catalyzed lacquer generally has a pretty quick working time, but it's supposed to provide a superior finish hardness. Thanks for checking out the video.

Typically at least 1 hour but it also depends on the humidity. I suggest going by the instructions on the can. Worst thing you can do is not wait long enough.

I always use a 1.3 or 1.4mm every time I spray lacquer no matter the viscosity. If it's not coming out just right, I'll add more thinner depending on how it's shooting. Thanks for checking out the video.

I believe in using a 1.4mm anywhere between 1.2-1.5 should be good for lacquer in most circumstances.

Really depends on the temperature, humidity, and the amount of surface your spraying. 50/50 mix is where its at if all else fails, it will just require more coats because 50% of it is going to evaporate as it dries. Because every situation is different, i recommend starting at like an 80/20 mix and work your way thinner. If its coming out of the gun and doesnt look like a fog from an aerosol can, you should probably go thinner. Also just watch the surface as your spraying. Orange peel is almost immediately noticeable if your not thin enough.

That's a good point for sure. I always wear the appropriate protection, but unfortunately ran out of new filters the day I was spraying in this video. It happens. Stinks I have to order them online. But at least I was wearing a mask. Better than nothing.

Great question. Really depends how much your spraying. If your doing a very small piece, it shouldn't be an issue as long as your wearing a respirator and get out of there when your done. Definitely don't spray around any open flame!

Sure is. He likes a little "extra"

Best practice to strain it as often as possible but I don't always. Often times I'll strain it once into an entire empty gallon. But sometimes I'll strain it as I'm pouring it into my cup. Just depends on the situation really. Usually I don't catch much when I strain anyways.

It is absolutely possible. Alot of guys do it with really good results. And its also quite a bit faster. Two downsides though. Much more overspray, so your actually wasting quite a bit more product which honestly doesnt really bother me. But the other downside is, once you have used a pump for paint, that Lacquer will eat any leftover paint residue out of the pump and you will get contamination, clogged tips, and a big mess. Many guys that spray a ton more than me, will have a dedicated pump for Lacquer products only! Its a great way to spray, but there are those few downsides. I dont have an extra pump, so i use HVLP.

Man I've never even seen prethinned lacquer. I'm used to using Watco, but recently we used PPG and it's fantastic. We like it better.

HD sells the Watco brand or you can go to any commercial paint store usually and get lacquer and thinner

Every manufacturer is different. I follow the instructions on the label for dry times.

its a future project for a display window

We used to use a lot of sanding sealer but we do not anymore. It does not have near as good adhesion to wood surfaces as straight lacquer does. I just use lacquer thinner straight to clean up my gun at the end of the day. That's all I've ever used and it's worked great. The gun I was using in the video we're still using today and it's 20 years old.

@@miillersconstruction thank you! Do you always sand in between coats of laquer?

@@jpryan9494 almost always. Very rare that I don't.

It depends really on how it feels. In those situations it's sometimes better to go ahead and shoot another coat then start your standing between coats, just to make sure you don't burn through that first layer and get into your stain. However, I have done it both ways, you just have to make sure your really lightly sanding that first coat. Depending on the stain your using, often times the Lacquer actually lays down even better.

@@miillersconstructionI only use Daly’s stain, high quality satin for sure! Are those 3M sanding pads you use? The superfine you said? Which HVLP sprayer would you recommend? Also, would you try and buy an all steel internals, no o’rings, for an easier clean up? Thx

@@tundrawhisperer4821 i use Mowhawk ultra penetrating stain myself. Dries crazy fast and rarely ever raises the grain. Plus true to color on the samples.

@@tundrawhisperer4821 yes 3m pads superfine. I can't tell alot of difference between sprayers once you spend around $100. I've got a $500 gun that sprays the same as my $100 Ingersoll Rand

@@miillersconstruction is your Ingersoll-Rand the 270G model? Thank you for all the great info.

20 gallon 5hp. Can't remember the CFMs off the top of my head.

Yes you can. Just remember to make sure to apply a nice even coat with a good amount of overlap. Sand been coats, upping the grit each coat. Rattle cans tend to dry even quicker so higher humidity is actually a good thing when working with lacquer in certain circumstances.

@@miillersconstruction im using Nitrocellulose Lacquer so sanding between coats is less important but I do get a lot of blushing. Anyway to fix it after it occurs? I tried spraying pure thinner from a rattle can to let the moisture escape but it doesn't dry to a gloss after applying the spray thinner.

@@Matan2222222 not much of a way to get rid of it unfortunately without sanding it back down. Try applying a very light "fog coat" let it dry for about 5 minutes then apply a coat and let it set for an hour.

@@miillersconstruction light fog coat of pure thinner and then the lacquer coat? I have some MOHAWK No Blush Retarder on the way in a spray can. Do you recommend spraying the piece with the retarder, let the piece dry and then comeback with lacquer?

@@Matan2222222 I'm sorry I should have been more specific. No what I meant was spray a light fog coat of pure lacquer. Then 5 minutes later spray a standard coat of lacquer. I never shoot just straight thinner onto any project ever. I also have only experienced blushing once or twice in all the years I've been using the method shown in the video.

1.4mm I believe.

Polycrylic is ok and if it works well for you, keep going with it. If you ever want to step out of your comfort zone though, Lacquer will dry way faster. Interior trim and woodworking we have had great success with it. Once again this is a system that gives you really high quality in a production setting. So if you have a ton of linear footage to spray, i would definitely give lacquer a try. If your only shooting a single piece of furniture and dont mind waiting a little longer for dry time, stick with what you know if it is giving you good results.

Yes absolutely. All I can source locally is medium dry. Which works well for us usually.

I have never applied more than 6 or 7 coats so im not sure about that. That is a beautiful thing about Lacquer though, each coat burns into the next so its more durable than a traditional system in that aspect.

@@miillersconstruction thank you i guess i'll test it first to see.

@@roropepe1848 just make absolute sure you wait the entire dry time to recoat which is usually at least 1 hour generally. Some brands allow 30 minutes.

The sanding pad doesnt have a grit number (dumb i know) its called "superfine" i would compare it to maybe 400 grit. Really depends on the paint but i have personally never tried it. It MIGHT work over oil based paint, but it will most likely destroy any waterbased topcoats. Lacquer is unique in that way. It will actually eat into other coatings so you have to be careful. They do make pigmented Nitrocellulose Lacquer and i have used it. It works basically the same as the clear. Very nice finish.

Bob here. 45 yrs of spraying lacquer. NO!!! I can't stress this enough. DO NOT apply lacquer over any top coat that is not lacquer. Acrylic, alkyd, oil, whatever. Lacquer will blister it badly and destroy it. I have many, MANY, yrs experience with that. ...such an expensive mistake. Just sharing my opinion.

@@bobpartridge3668 Appreciate the comment Bob. I have never tried it so i wouldnt know. It sounded like a bad idea from the beginning knowing the nature of Lacquer. I would not have even attempted it myself, which is probably why ive never tried it.

@@miillersconstructionDid you ever experienced bubbles and if you did, how did you solve the problem. I sprayed gloss polyurethane and the bubbles keep coming.

@@gustavogalindo4543 Gloss Poly is a completely different product. Bubbles could be caused by a number of issues, but the thing to keep in mind, poly and Lacquer are in no way related. Completely different products.

I have never tried it but I would think not. Lacquer tends to burn through so much stuff, it's really so tough and potent. You could try brushing on just a little bit and see.

I like to keep my airless solvent free. HVLP works just fine FOR ME

@@miillersconstruction Got ya. I have 2 rigs One for solvent, other for Water base.Have little experience with HVLP. I am curious though. Would like to learn spraying Epoxy. What HVLP rig do you suggest.

@@keithhampton9700 when it comes to HVLP the one piece of advice I would give you is to stay away from turbine units like the Gracos. I absolutely hated mine so bad I sold it. I've just got a cheap gravity feed cup gun and a compressor. It's done me well for nearly 2 decades.

@@miillersconstruction Thanks!!

Ok

@@miillersconstruction 40 years finishing experience.

@@denniscotey8182 I'm happy for you.

Blushing typically occurs with lower humidity in my experience. I would try a little less thinner first.

I have never sprayed Black Lacquer. But if you can find a dealer to mix it for you and it is a one part Lacquer, like nitrocellulose, all of the principles I shared in this video should apply the same.

Thanks for your help and for the video. I learned a lot from it.

@@user-nd5sl2tp4h Your quite welcome!

Poly is a completely different animal. I like to thin it though myself. It will level out better. You just have to make sure you put on an additional coat or two. Also make sure your thinning it with the proper product obviously.

I shoot with a 1.4 but 1.3 is good too. I would probably use a 1.3 if i had one.

@@miillersconstruction why not shoot with a 1.8 and not have to thin as much.

@@zackbridgman I was thinking the same thing, based on what I’ve been hearing. I’m a newbie, still learning though. Thx

I have used sanding sealer in the past. Sanding sealer is more for production guys in my opinion. The adhesion is not quite as strong as straight Lacquer, and its easier to sand. That's why its cheaper. I prefer to just start off with straight Lacquer.

Arkansas

I've sprayed the dog before. He loves it. It's my dog, you worry about your dog. As for the leftovers, I have a big bucket that when it is eventually filled, take it to the paint recycle center. Very simple, very easy. What do you think autobody shops do with their leftover solvent based paints?

well then next time you're gonna spray the dog with lacquer, first spray some in your own mouth and see how you like it. Because that's essentially what you're doing by spraying the dog. @@miillersconstruction

@@carlpetitt2241 thanks for checking out the video. I love a keyboard warrior every now and again.

LOL!!! I assure you it wasnt quite that thick!

Thank you so much! Glad you enjoy

Thanks Jim

@@miillersconstruction No charge. Thanks the video btw. Very helpful.

@@Jimmy-Legs like & subscribe buddy

@@miillersconstruction ok.

I did the best I could. Sorry

It's a pain yes. But what's nice about lacquer is it's so incredibly easy to sand.

@@miillersconstruction What do you use to sand between coats? Do you have to sand between every coat? Thx

@@tundrawhisperer4821 watch the full video and it should show you the sanding pads I use. They are made by 3m and they are all that I use.

What a stupid reason to not learn a thing lol Fast forward the music?

SuperFine pads from 3m. They don't tell the grit number