Happy to help :)

Sam, I wasn't aware the Z offset needs changing depending on filament type. What changes do you make depending on which you plan to use at the time?

Something similar happened to me, I lowered the offset a lot and I create chafing on the bed I don't understand much English I hope I can adjust

For some reason I can’t find how to permanently set up my z offset there is no setting for that can you help me

@@camdendunne3102 When you get a Z offset that works for you, you need to save it to the printer memory, otherwise you lose it when the power is cycled. As every Marlin build can be different, there's no guarantee that it's in the same place on my printer as on yours. It should be near your Z offset tuning, but if not you may need to search. The menu item you're looking for is "Store settings".

@@Gorf1234 I clicked “store settings” and nothing changed I still have the same problem

The thing is the option itself to change Z-offset is missing from mine. Wonder how to do it without it. Storing in memory works fine, but I first need to set the offset somehow.

@@n1xan Where did you get your Marlin? It's possible you may need to install another build. Marlin builds can have menu options available in various places. For my printer, the Marlin build has the Z Offset and Store Settings options enabled in two places each. I think you need to seek help on the Facebook page.

man thanks fo the tip i am builing the same machine :D

Happy to help ^-^

The printer refuses to go lower than your z-stopper. So if the z-stopper gets activated when you try to lower it further, it wont do it.

Hi, I don't own a Tronxy X5S unfortunately, but you may want to check out this guy's video(s) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iqybdsRj2MnIqaM.html it looks like he's updated the firmware on his printer and you may need to do that for the E3D V6 to make sure your hot end is using the correct thermistor. Without the printer to play around with, the best I can do is guess at the moment.

lol welcome aboard.

run a FW update

Mario Gayoso i don't see this menu...

I believe it's the same, but you can verify that by turning the printer off and on again then looking at your z offset to make sure it kept your changes.

thanks ...off subject but my opinion on auto leveling is that its more trouble than its worth..creates more issues and not good for the z motors since they run 100% of the time on all prints...i have 2 anet a8 one with auto leveling and one without..and i prefer the one without auto leveling since it has less downtime and no extra wear and tear on the z motors..people dont realize that with auto levling the z motors run 100% of the time..not good....i believe in keeping things simple since it creates less headaches and future issues..and auto leveling is not desirable in my opinion...i do not believe in lazy convenience features over reliability..ill take simple and reliable over convenience every day of the week...fancy gizmos=problematic ..look at your fancy new cars and applainces etc etc...too many issues due to too many fancy "convenience" features that fail..and cause other issues or non operational issue becasue of the "convenience" feature.:)..to me convenience does not mean break downs lol

You should get an arduino and upgrade the software on your mainboard with it.

Yeah, if you're using somebody else's firmware for the CR-10 you may not have all of the same menus. I made a video explaining how to burn the bootloader and write firmware to work with my Nano Bed Leveling system here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i9qfeZaH2J-9mH0.html there's a different version of the firmware in the video description which has these menus.

trolling or for real???? anyway, metal expands when temperature raises...

Thanks!

yeah, you may want to try what I suggested to Boyd Crowder's comment to load up the default settings from the firmware. it's hard to say if the previous Marlin settings could be affecting your new settings, but that does cause problems for some people. And, yes It should work the same for the Lulzbot Taz 6 assuming the Marlin firmware has the MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS line commented out like this: //#define MIN_SOFTWARE_ENDSTOPS that's what lets you lower your nozzle below 0mm

sorry for the late reply, but I have another couple of videos where I installed an auto bed leveling sensor with an Arduino Nano on my CR-10. It's Marlin 1.1.6, and there's a download link for the firmware I used if you're interested: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i9qfeZaH2J-9mH0.html

That's a setting in the firmware called Z_SAFE_HOMING. the printer does that automatically.

I have the same issue, still no answer :S

good idea. =)

If you are using Marlin 2.0 and you are familiar with the IDE(Arduino or VSCode) do an Ctrl+F at the configuration.h and search for x_offset and you will find the settings for both x&y there. Take a ruler and measure the offsets and type them in. Take a look at the grid too ( back and right from the nozzle is + and left and front is minus)

sounds like that might be a setting in the firmware. normally if it's just an issue of the endstop being inverted, the sensor will move up a couple mm then stop, but if it's traveling all the way to the top of the Z axis, maybe it's trying to home at the top instead of the bottom?

thank you!

So, the firmware is setup to lift the nozzle up 10mm after homing, but the nozzle stays at 0? or does the display say it's at 0 when the nozzle is actually 10mm above the bed? Is it homing in the middle of the bed? And sorry if this is a dumb question, you are using an Auto Bed Leveling sensor right? I believe some people have tried to follow this video with a normal endstop, so always good to ask

no, definitely shouldn't be -112. I think marlin limits the Z offset to a max range of like -4 to +4 or something. you can change that, but I think that's the default if I remember correctly. Did you home all axis before you started trying to follow this video? if so, your Z axis should end up about 10mm above the bed (or whatever Z axis clearance is set in the configuration.h file). and your LCD screen should read that you're about 10mm up. then when you lower the z axis with the piece of paper, it should only have to go down a little bit. If your BLTouch never lowered down and touched the bed when you tried to Home all axis, then that's a different problem that needs to be worked out first

Right, this video is purely for setting the Z offset if you have an auto bed leveling sensor. Without some sort of auto bed leveling setup, you have to level your bed manually, so there's no point in having a Z offset option.

How do you do that?

​@@R.D.G.C. gcode command: M211 S0 This will disable MIN Software Endstops.

After you click on "Store Settings" the z offset is stored to your printer, so whether you're printing from octoprint or an SD card, the z offset will be stored, and your auto bed leveling routine will follow that.

thank you so much the video was vary helpful

You need to turn on eeprom

If you want/need to put glass on your bed, you're better off going with a Capacitive sensor. I don't have any videos at the moment showing this process, but it should effectively be the same as an inductive sensor. The only difference is a Capacitive sensor will sense glass or anything really, and needs to have the sensitivity adjusted - usually by a little screw on top of the sensor.

Remain Indoors thanks for the answer, just now seeing it, why I didn't get a notification is beyond me as I have that turned on.

I have a video about setting up auto bed leveling on the Tevo Tornado with a BLTouch if you're interested: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o6ine6qmvZvIlWw.html

Oh thanks very much. Yes I believe I found your video right after viewing this one. ;-) Big help.

You probably don't have Marlin installed, it's an option only available with the new firmware installed.

you might need to update your firmware

Marlin on the stock Ender 3 board is somewhat limited. You can re-flash your current board to add mesh leveling though. You can also update to a newer control board like the MKS Gen L V1.0 which has enough memory to handle all that Marlin can offer.

@@TechGorilla1987 Hi, I had to upgrade the boar to MKS Gen L v1.0 and TFT 28 display I fried both the originals ;(, but I don't have the menus for the Z offset anymore, do you know how to get then in the TFT28? I am using the latest Marlin.

@@manolo5104 You have to modify the configuration.h file and enable bilinear bed leveling festure. Dont forget to put Save homming and define sensor offsets and travel limits. Thats all

That would depend on what's changed in the firmware. I believe the configuration.h file does (or used to) have something that affects the Z offset. If you're just flashing the same firmware with something unrelated changed, you could try just entering the same value, but I'd still be cautious trusting it when you first print something.

Z offset is only used if you have auto bed leveling, and Auto Bed Leveling takes measurements between wherever the bed is and your nozzle then prints there. so if you lower your bed 15mm, and the auto bed leveling sensor detects the bed 15mm below where it was last time the printer ran, then (assuming you run the auto bed leveling routine again) the z offset will tell the nozzle to print using the z offset as a relation to wherever the bed is.

Where can I find the same settings on TH3D?

@@DigiVore.official Dude, the video shows how, its been a long time, I use a SKR E3 Mini v2 now soooo... maybe check out CHEP on youtube? that dude is helpful too

@@nickstubbings I made my firmware incorrectly, just ended up going to vanilla marlin, works perfect now, almost perfectly dialed in. Sorry matey

have you found the answer?

bro I think I might have. In my Gcode i added M420 S to enable bed level data and now it works fine,

I think it's this one: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4090616 or one just like it. The one on my computer is called EZABLSensorMount and it's from 2017, but I couldn't find that on thingiverse, so it may have come with the downloads when I purchased EZABL from EH3D when Tim Hoogland was getting started (I think that's his name)

@@RemainIndoors Thank you for your prompt response. This is the closest one I've found to what I need. My prox switch is 17mm (I got in a hurry buying it) so may have to grind it out a bit to make it fit.

if your printer's menu doesn't have a Factory Reset option anywhere in it, you can try hooking up your printer to a computer and sending the GCode M502 for Factory Reset and M500 to Save the settings.

see the video description, it explains how you can lower your z axis below 0. You'll have to hook up your printer to your computer or octoprint, or some way that lets you send GCode commands to your printer

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oKqYaJRp2bLTkYE.html

for auto bed leveling, no. It is a good idea to do that once, just to make sure your bed is parallel to your X axis, but it's not mandatory as the Auto Bed Leveling system will just make your hot end follow the angle of the bed.

when you slice your files, what are you setting as your first layer height?

@@RemainIndoors .2mm for all layer heights is what I usually use. I was able to fix the problem by just trial and error..ing.. the z offset until it was close enough to the bed. so its good now! lol