I feel like any decent paint would hold up that well with as good a prep-job as you did, lol!

@@amberslilrose3954no

It's our pleasure! Thanks a lot

Hey Mike, thanks for sharing your tips! Glad it worked out for you!

What rollers were suggested? Getting ready to refinish a bedroom set. Thanks.

@@beckyfred5949 They suggested the 4” mohair rollers sold at the Sherwin Williams store. They worked great. The mohair rollers from Home Depot, which I also tried, did not work quite as well.

Did you use a primer? If you did what did you use? Thanks!

@@dawnd7332you have to use primer first I use zinsser before two coats sanding 240 before spraying two coats

I cringed at "painted some white cabinets and a piece of furniture with Glidden flat." I always recommend a satin at the very least, but semi-gloss is most common (easier to clean and more durable). I used to sell/mix Glidden paint and...yeah, the kind I dealt with was as thin as water.

Glad I could help Tyler!

it sure is .... I paid $60

@@shure46 @ would make the regular price about $127.00

@@WatersandWilderness 40% of "127" = 50 .... 127 - 50 = 77 , minus the 10 dollar coupon = $67 .... she said she paid $47 ..... your math is off .... As for my $60 , I never used her formula , and I probably paid $57 and just said $60 rounding off ..... the MSRP for Emerald I think is around $90 (of course MSRP on anything is a crock , but yesterday I was in Lowes , and some 3/4 plywood was $81 !!!!! I used to pay $25 not long ago !!!!!! This is insane

And here I thought there was no paint that could make ME look good lol.

Which brush do you use?

"... stop and call a plumber." lol. very, very funny and apt! still lol'ing ;)

I only use Purdy brushes and get zero brush marks with this paint. I’ve given up on rollers on cabinetry as I don’t like the slight orange peel effect rollers give. But Purdy (or even Wooster) 2.5” and led sash brushes are my go to for trim and cabinetry and cutting in when I do walls.

@@Camgrad2020thank goodness - I was using a purdy high nap roller ($$) and STILL getting orange peel affect with three different paints. Glad to know it wasn’t just my skill set and happens to everyone 😅 What about an Italian look with a grout sponge? Like on a focal wall? I have enamel in beige and gray and was thinking of blending In Tavern Taupe and a little Emerald shine? (Teen room) and yes I am a little unique 😂😂

All the major brands are having a big sale in the month of September. Can't go wrong with SW.

Did you get an answer to this question? I have the same question. About to do our cabinets, walls, doors and trim. I'm wondering ho along to wait afterwards before being able to put all the cabinet doors and drawers back on and the doors to all the rooms. What was your experince? Thank you

Definitely is. Yeah that a rough grit sandpaper for a good finish

220 is the coarsest you should go. 320 give a really nice surface.

300 is recommended between coats to give tooth to next coat .Final coat needs no sanding .

I have used this on cabinets, with a 1/4" roller and "GOOD" brush, and it is awesome! For the primer? Old cabinets in my customer's 1998 mobile home, after using TSP for cleaning, I used Zinsser's B.I.N. Shelac primer. Sticks to everything and seals everything. Customer bought new "Diamond" cabinets to replace the lower cabinets and build a new island. I painted the old uppers with this paint (In a Satin finish) and can't tell the difference between the old an new.

Glad you like! :)

Also, moisture and humidity can play a big role with those drying times as well. It's great to hear you had an otherwise great experience!

@@thepaintpeople Yes for sure. We are actually in a very dry low humidity climate, and this has still been my experience with the Emerald Urethane that it's quite a slow cure. Its not a deal breaker for sure, and the finish is worth it in my opinion.

Will the tackiness go away eventually? I am on day two after and worried about the darker of the two colors still having that soft/tacky feel while the white color I used feels a lot different.

I sprayed a kitchen with dark base cabinets, and white uppers, and I managed to coat each 3 times, and sand in between coats over about 8 hours.

Most paints take up to a week to fully cure given proper temperatures, humidity etc

Hi Bailie, the semi gloss is shinier than satin.

Benjamin Moore Advance!

Yes you can! Stix is my go to primer if I'm not sure what kind of surface I'm dealing with but there are others, and for a top coat, most people use a water-based polyurethane.

You need a latex extender like M-1 to brush and roll. I dilute it about 10%, still with limited working time. It is my favorite spraying finish product on the market.

Glad to hear that! It's a really nice product!

I agree , I didn't like Advance , and I saw a review and Emerald outperformed Advance agianst scratches and chemicals after curing .... Advance gets too sticky too fast , but dries slow as hell , and to hell with 16 hours to recoat .... might as well use oil

Same here, I use it on all my trim, baseboards and cabinet work. Great product and well worth the money.

Sal do you need to out a top coat on this paint for cabinets? And what would that be?

No need... that is the top coat

Great for tables. No reduction needed. Airless sprayer with a fine finish tip. It’s a urethane so it takes a bit longer to current to maximum hardness, about 20 days. Cheers.

The paint isn't planning on running away from the home, is it?

@@OOpSjm What? Lol.

Thats fair but ive found regal select takes a couple weeks to harden as well

So glad you found a product that works for you! We're glad to help!

Yeah I used Home Depot paint myself and it was horrible so I switch to aura myself and I never looked back

Yep Behr paint sucks. Let's see what's wrong with it. It can't deal with bathroom cleaners not even in satin it will discolor fairly easily. It's not very scuff resistant even in semi-gloss on the trim. The ceiling paint they make is not flat enough. The Behr outdoor paint even in semi-gloss easily grows mildew and stains easily. If you can't tell I have used a lot of Behr products.

Just out of curiosity, which product to you end up finding success with?

@@thepaintpeople Benjamin Moore waterborne ceiling paint dead flat. Benjamin Moore regal select. I'm going to try Benjamin Moore Aura next. I also want to try cabinet coat for trim. I also don't like PPG timeless it almost looks like plastic.

Brush the cabinets??? No Cut what is necessary and immediately roll it as close as possible with a 4inch 3/16 mohair small roller or either a foam roller, if doing it by hand. Have a spare board or peice of sheet rock to roll the roller on first till its not so heavy in the roller until you get practice being able to spread it on. The last thing you want to do is load up your little roller and not have enough room on the cabinets to spread it to where its not too much if you want a decent finish.

I have more experience with Benjamin Moore Advanced and it is great on Cabinets, very wipeable, which a lot of people love.

roller

Airless with a fine finish tip, sprays great.

@suburban me: Thanks for the advice.

We will be doing a series of videos that compare all the different types of cabinet paint. Our comparisons will focus on, coverage, scratch resistance, adhesion and slef leveling properties. Stay tuned!

I would say that it's probably the base itself. Emerald Urethane used to be manufactured in Extra White, but I believe it's been completely replaced by HHW. It may work better if you ask for some white tint to be added. If that doesn't resolve it, have you tried Proclassic? I sell that one often, and it comes in latex, oil, and a hybrid (which would likely be closest to ETU). Both homeowners and painters have given me great feedback on it.

Same issue here with the satin. Sprayed 6 doors, added Floetrol for the last one since the paint wouldn't lay out good. That door turned out smooth as silk, but all were really flat for a satin. To make matters worst, the color was Black Fox. I'm going to run one with a semi gloss and hope for improvement.

well, they haven't fixed the issue with the satin yet. I am going over another painters satin hhw from 3 months ago and It's amazing how flat the finish is and how it feels like 1200 grit sandpaper. so odd.

I noticed the same thing after using the Urethane Satin HHW. When running my hand over the surface, I was shocked at how course it was. I've been using Snap Dry in satin for quite some time for interior doors, and never noticed this problem.

Awesome! What sorts of projects do you typically work on? Residential or commercial?

@@thepaintpeople Residential, Interior/ Exterior and cabinets. Specializing in Graco jet roll Exteriors.

If there's no paint on it already, no. If it's just the bare metal I'd recommend a product called DTM, or direct to metal paint. It's more of an industrial product so it only comes in gallons or 5 gals and if your not going to need that much you might need something else like all surface enamel with a primer like kem kromic. I've only been mentioning Sherwin Williams products as well, there are others that would work.

I think you are talking about a clear varnish. Nope, not necessary.

Really I don’t understand. lacquer and emerald are two deferent coatings. I’m guessing that maybe you have a dark color island probably a green which is popular now and want to use lacquer to finish the woodwork. Emerald has a horrible cure time and I would switch to Benjamin Moore command paint.

I would recommend Fresh Start primer from Benjamin Moore and for the top-coat I would go with Advance or Scuff-X.

@@thepaintpeople Thanks for the recommendation. Check with my local bm store and they don't carry the Advance/Scuff-x. Do you have any recommendation on similar products from Sherwin? Thanks

Go with the Multi-purpose primer and Emerald urethane. Great products!!!

@@thepaintpeople Cool. So to work with Emerald urethane, the primer should be water-based or oil-based?

You can use the Water based primer first then apply the Emerald Urethane or even the Pro Classic. If you wanted a 100% water based top coat then use the the Standard Emerald line or the Duration line from SW.

Thanks for the tip!

Hahahaha it will feel like lacquer 🤣🤣 not even close, this paint doesn't have a nice finish like other brands, no way

@@sparrow7356 OK Mr sparrow....you are right. Nothing like lacquer. But. With proper preparation and thining the paint. It will get soft enough for a nice and professional finish.. lacquer products isn't for everybody. First of all you have to have the right equipment and know how to applyed. That's why I was giving the example of hybrid paint like advance.... Thanks for the laugh. 😎

Do you recommend this product on kitchen cabinets?

I heard you should use Sherwin Williams Extreme Bond Primer

I switched from pro classic to emerald urethane. Much better. Sprays great in my 440. Just picked up an hvlp to start using on cabinets

Pro classic is junk. There are many better enamels out there. Emerald may work but the second you get a dark color good luck. Try bm command. If spraying use a 310 or a 308 tip for dark colors.

@@mattbradley2603 Question of the day. What's not junk these days? Paint has only gotten worse in the 38 years I have been doing it. God forbid you want an actual bright white trim paint. The only one I know of is ppg advantage 900 interior exterior. Far as the Emerald enamel goes I'm partially into the job. I pre sprayed a stack of baseboards with a 310 ff in the airless. Worked very nice. Doors and casings installed and those are all brushed and look solid. I also cut and rolled 6 bathroom ceilings with the Emerald. So far looks good and it just took some is unnecessary roughness. The electrician mounted all of the fartfans proud of the drywall and somehow there is no way to access how he mounted them (tight building brought back from the dead over 120 years old) so I had to grind away portions of the housing and the ribbing on the plastic slip over cover.. sparks flyin everywhere and when I was done the blackness brushed off with a dustbrush. Main complaint about the paint in this thread... it aint true white. None of sherwin Williams paints are. It does appear to be true semi gloss though. I have Emerald satin on the bath walls and Matte Emerald in the rest of the common areas. It all works out.

Both are great products. Emerald Urethane will dry faster and Advance has better self leveling properties. It's a tough choice but I would lean towards Advance. Cheers!

Emerald urethane is also a self-leveling paint. Sw employee.

100% its self leveling. Fantastic product!

I recently used the emerald urethane for cabinets and trim in the ultra deep bases.The dark green for cabinets dried fast no issues and the black on the trim turned out great I’m thinking they changed the formula for the darker bases.I experienced no tackiness it set up fast.I was worried about reading about problems with the darker bases but turned out great.I think the semi gloss looks much better then the satin.I’m a painter in Chicago I’ve used a lot of the satin,it’s smooth looking but not to the touch like the semigloss

Well lemme hop in my truck and drive cross country to san diego to get some..😜 Thats the last place I used DE paints anyway. So sick of swiss coffee i was

Absolutely!

Can this be used over a water-based primer?

what was the dry time on it?

@@K_njie Emerald Urathane on cabinet doors with roller: about 3 to 4 hours to dry on a hot sunny day. When I paint Behr Dynasty..I can do the second coat in 10 to 15 minutes. Almost dries too fast.

Thanks for the answer. anothr question, what is similar or close to SW emerald urathane? I'm about to use Behr Marquee for my kitchen cabinets.

@@K_njie I used the Behr Marquee for about the past 8 years. I just switched last year to the Behr Dynasty because it is a step up from Marquee. It does dry pretty fast. The Emerald Urathayne is more durable...but the Dynasty and Marqee are durable enough. Urathayne to me is like a combination of acrylic and oil base paint. Behr is all acrylic.

Not necessary. Emerald Urethane is all you need.

You can’t go wrong with the 310 for doors & trim

It can be done, yes.

It's actually gray owl illuminated with purple lighting! haha

Rock candy 👍🏻

Hard to say but I've had more experience with Tricorn Black.

I’m trying to avoid finger prints on the black. Does this paint accomplish this without effecting paint

Where are you located? We will look into the Valspar Cabinet Enamel.

I did a "stick test" with Valspar Cab Paint .... seems to dry pretty hard , not bad ..... I've been using Emerald on some cabs and liking it , definitely levels out well .... advance sucks , hard to use , slow recoat time , might as well use oil , gets tacky fast , I think Emerald is better ..... I have not painted with Valspar Cab Paint , just did a stick test ..... dried pretty hard , not bad , but I have not used it

It really depends on your personal tolerance, I'd say. The fumes won't be harmful, and will only smell in the immediate areas that are being painted, while it's drying. Keep the windows open where you can!

I lived in my house after painting my entire kitchen with SW Emerald privilege green, and only could smell it slightly when I went into the kitchen first thing in the AM. My wife never could smell anything, so I wouldn't worry about any smell. Besides........play doh really isn't a bad smell lol.

@@jimb3457 do you mind telling me how the paint has held up? Afraid to do all this work only to have chipped cabinets in a year.

@@dawnd7332 It remains rather soft at first so be careful. After about 3 weeks, it turns rock hard and gets harder as it ages. If you do have to touch up, and you have applied the paint with a brush and roller, it touches up easily and leaves no mark. Scroll down to Penut's comment and you will find comments by me explaining exactly how to apply this paint. If you follow my directions, you will be very pleased with the results. I painted my wife's entire kitchen two coats with a quart and a half of paint. If you need any more help, feel free to email me. Many pros hate this paint because it is very thin and will run on vertical surfaces if not applied properly.

@@jimb3457 I’d like to see what you’re recommendations are, but I can’t seem to find your explanation on how to apply this paint anywhere in these comments. I’m going to paint wood trim and cabinets. I have a cheap ($30) Krause & Beck airless sprayer from Harbor Freight, I’m hoping I’ll be able to use it with the SW emerald ute.

Yes, use a stain covering primer and 2 coats of emarald.

Go with the Extreme Bond Primer from Sherwin Williams.

Thanks. Compare to Benjamin Moore Advance, which one is better for painting kitchen cabinets? I'm not a professional painter, just a DIYer.

I would use the Advance

@Small Business Defense wrong. Extreme bond is an alkyd primer.

@@lin-bf3we EMERALD !!!!!!

I would never ever trust any water cleanup paint to stick to oil paint without priming with oil. You're begging for a problem

If you doing cabinets that were stained i would do an oil primer first because it will bleed through and you'll end up doing multiple coats. Otherwise I say screw oil too. Prep is everything when it comes to cabinets. Scuffing them with sandpaper ( like 150 then 220) is best. If primed a light scuff with a 220 after will make smooth and get great adhesion

It's largely up to you. If it's a product you love to work with, why not? The only things are: it only comes in shinier finishes, and you won't need the added durability/washability when it's a surface all the way up your wall! haha

And you won’t unfortunately. Will have to regrout

Try hand sanitizer! I got paint off our tile floor with it.

Thanks for sharing your experience Micheal!

Yes! Use the extreme bond primer by Sherwin Williams first.

Thank you!

It's the same I believe?

Use water or Flotrol.

dont thinned

Absolutely!

@@thepaintpeople thank you! Can you recommend a model home depot may carry please?

Yes it will but not much to notice over time. You won’t be able to touch up though after a year or so.

Please update your experience with this product I have a similar project in mind.

@@soldier4christsoldier4chri90 I ended up having to build my bench cabinet in place due to my small area, which meant I had to attach from the front side of the cabinet. Because I had already primed the boards twice before installation with the wood primer from SW, I essentially had to prime it again to cover the minwax wood filler I used to cover my bolt holes (great stuff btw). Then, it took only 2 coats of the enamel paint with a 6" roller with 1/4" nap to get the nice coverage and finish. I dry brushed each coat with a 2" nylon bristle brush after rolling to get a smoother texture. Totally happy with the results.

No need to thin it with airless gun.

BM Advanced

I only use the SW Emerald urethane Cabinets, trim and baseboards, great results every time. My customers love the results.

I only use emerald now also. Alot of people won't try other products and just swear what they use is best. Plenty of people that used lacquers have switched to emerald. It is a great product

Yes with some paint, dark colours can remain tacky. Humidity also plays a big factor in the drying process. Thanks for sharing.

I spray all colors in emerald even black. If it was tacky that long something was seriously wrong. Even at 40 degrees I had it dry in hours. Either there was a serious humidity problem or something was wrong with that can or the process.

Used a dark color Emerald @SherwinWilliams paint on ALL the tons of our exterior TRIM. Besides local SW never being able to actually MATCH our WINDOW/DOOR color DARK BRONZE (despite having the exact color codes from the manufacturer🙄), EMERALD FADED badly within about 2-3 years after application (even though two coats of this pudding thick paint was applied, as instructed, on primed surfaces)! NOT happy campers!

Hmmm interesting. I got "Cascades" in this paint which is close to a forest green for our front and back doors. We prepped the surface really good, cleaned it, primered the doors and then applied the paint over. The paint was still translucent after the second coat and I could see the primer shining through. I ended up doing 5 coats and I can still see some of the primer flashing through in areas. I have no idea how thats possible an its almost like the paint is just not thick enough which counteracts your point but still makes me wonder what the heck is wrong. We ended up just leaving it as a "rustic" look but I still wonder what I could have done differently. Maybe a light sanding after each coat?

Yeah this paint is weird I’ve used this paint multiple times with semi gloss and I noticed the colors that use a deep base are always the ones that remain soft and tacky and don’t dry as hard as they should. I always try to avoid using deepbase colors if I need a finish that I need to dry to hard film.

😘

We do what we have to do!

@@thepaintpeople Exactly 😊

I had same issues. Painted some time and doors with extra white colour and finish feels chaulky. Prefer pro classic 2 alkyd smooth finish. Both were in Satin.

30 DAYS???? "Ain't nobody got time for that"

Yeah and make sure to not touch the surface for a long time either cause it’s gonna scratch and mar like butter...

It’s hard after 7 days. I love it!

Technically yes, but I would at least clean and buff the surface to help with adhesion. Also, go with the semi-gloss over satin.

Don't paint over an oil base with it, it will fail. SW employee here.

@@norsemendanes9622 Also an SW employee. I've always been told that it could go over water or oil-based paints. What causes Emerald Urethane to be problematic when used over an oil-based paint?

@@morganharney409 it says it "can" but I sold 10 gals to a contractor and he went over oil based on some cabinets and it failed terribly it was cracking and peeling within 1 week and we had to refund and give him all new paint, and all of it was ASE oil hand tinted with the BAC 🤦‍♂️

No

Yes, best primer on the market.

You understand you can put pretty much everything on primer... so that's a dumb question

@@jacobortega2786 some paints (ahem, PPG Breakthrough) have adhesion issues with BIN, so it's not necessarily a dumb question.

@@jacobortega2786 yeah not all paints are compatible so maybe Google before insulting

Here's my review of Advance so you can compare John: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o5uggbiItZmlgHU.html

Sprayed it multiple times with a turbine HVLP and thinned it every time.

Thanks Jimmy. I was just going by the directions on the can. It's good to know you can thin and spray with HVLP. I'll give it a shot.

Thin down with water?

Sorry to hear that Shada. By chance, was this painted overtop another paint? Did you use a primer?

@@thepaintpeople it was painted on factory white doors that I sanded and primed

It dries to touch in two hours, re-coat after four hours.

30 days to full cure. "Patience is a virtue"