Your welcome brother, more to come soon!

It was probably done on purpose since Polycarbonate has a tendency to ricochet (something you can observe by the type of deformation the material has) therefore if shooting it perpendicular there were high odds it would be unsafe.

This is great to know! Thanks for the heads up brother

the white around the hocky rink gets replaced or the glass or both?

Right! Gotta love polycarbonate, might very well be my favorite plastic to work with. It would be cool to do some polycarbonate/steel hybrids, we'll have to discuss that more on discord

@@Techthisoutmeow i will give you some design ideas indeed

@@Techthisoutmeow I use a a home made target of a mild steel c-channel to hold 1foot square plates held up from the mild steel base by 2 case hardened steel 1/4" rods. I buy replacement 1/2" polycarbonate plates off Amazon when they break up, but the 3/8" AR500 plate has taken hundreds of 5.56 ball and 7.62x54r steel core with only the faintest dimples and a minor concave starting. The polycarbonate is used only to ensure nothing bounces back Everything can be replaced from Amazon except the mild steel base and frame. Version 2.0 will have some kind of spacers between the 2 plates because filling it with sand didn't work

@Dutch shrapnel is often compared with .22lr for an estimate of penetration power

@@Techthisoutmeow You alive? No new vids in a while.. Your idea for using melted bags in between layers of fiberglass worked awesome. I found you can mould it as it cools into a helmet shape and add small porcelain squares as a strike face.

Thanks brother, and glad to have you! Plenty of new stuff coming out soon.

Awesome! Yeah now that I'm back into the swing of things I'll have a few updates lined up for that soon!

Have you seen my aluminum plate test video? I tried pretty much exactly what you asked for, and stopped the 7.62×39, the m193, and with a decent backer the m855!

​@@Techthisoutmeow That is super interesting, i have seen it but could not remember exactly that setup. My take on it is if the flex kevlar will be enough to stop the rest of the projectile after porcelain and aluminum and if you would survive the shock. A thinner, more ductile variant of aluminum would also be interesting, like 6061. A pre-owned flex kevlar panel from ebay is 30$, a p. tile, different thickness of 6061 alu.. I'm happy to donate a few $ for that if you want to test it out meow

And a happy Thanksgiving to you as well!

Interesting point, however I'm not to worried about it. I've been studying how company's produce bulletproof windows for vehicles, and I'm more worried that I might not get the polycarbonate into the proper shape. But half the fun with this stuff is learning by doing, so we'll just have to wait and see if your theory is true. Guess I'll have to study how they anchor it in more, thanks for bringing it up.

I'm a little late but lattice wire sandwiches in between solves this issue in most cases, just removes some of the lowpro benefits.

How bout old plated huge vinyl tape?

Yeah you get the idea, I've done a bit with glass and polycarbonate before on this channel, years ago.

Bro some 1/4th mm of electrical tape isnt effecting shit

I don't know about kevlar, but I do know there's solid block nylon that might be really cool to try. One that I always wanted to shoot is PEEK plastic, just to see. Honestly if I can swing it, i would like to compare all common plastics vs ballistic threats, but that would get costly quick. maybe one day

@@Techthisoutmeow yeah that would be fun to see!

Uh buddy, this is clearly polycarb lol

😂 Seriously?

Thank you, glad you enjoyed it

haha he's great.

Some of my very first armor designs used polycarbonate in them, with kevlar and urathane resins, and they worked great. However I do feel laminated HDPE composite has more stopping power overall. You should check out my ceramic tile show down video, I compare different ceramic strike faces on a polycarbonate backer, and some of those might be the easiest way to create rifle rated stuff.

The plastic soldier of fortune model lol.

@@Techthisoutmeow RIGHT -PLUS HE CAN BE RECYCLED ..LOL

Thanks

Sure thing! So this is by far my favorite place to buy polycarbonate and acrylic from freckleface.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/plasticmaterial.html they have some of the cheapest sheets around! E plastics sometimes has sales, and TAP plastics is another good one. But when it comes to polycarbonate, I mostly just buy from freckleface, the prices are just to good.

@@Techthisoutmeow WOW!! Thanks so much for responding!! Those prices are incredible!! Literally HALF of other places!! Thank you so much!!

ie, laminated ceramic tiles

multiple consecutive strike faces and the hpde-poly layers between, something around the keep it in place, or just layer interleaving

ceramic composite scale armor

or just single carrier cushion plate with steel frame, so the internal plates-layers can be easily swapped for new

think as a bubble wrap structure but from steel or plastic or ceramic, that crushes down to absorb incoming energy, like a styrofoam, large amounts of empty air, space, to compress into, honeycomb, bubbles, spheres, cones

If you can mold It then I don't see why not.

Dragon skin is not better at stopping anything if so top end body armour would all be dragonskin and tanks would have dragonskin armor

my man! thanks for supporting the channel, if I can get more people like you then I can invest in some new firearms, or maybe even a high speed camera!

I have! Well, with ballistic clay, the same stuff the NIJ uses for their rating system. You can measure the back face deformation better with clay, unless you have a high speed camera that is. If you watch my last video I use it, all my armor that's made to be worn is tested this way. This was more to see how much is needed to outright stop a bullet.

@@Techthisoutmeow do you recommend viscolstic polymer as a barrier for protection behind the plate? And if so where and how to make this polymer ?