Singer Heavy Duty: Can It Hem Jeans?

  Рет қаралды 6,353

thejasonofalltrades

thejasonofalltrades

11 ай бұрын

(NOTE: This video is part of an ongoing and long-term series evaluating the Singer "Heavy Duty" machines. At the time of making this video, I have not yet formed a complete, informed opinion about these machines.)
Hi!
In this video, I try hemming jeans with the Singer Heavy Duty sewing machine to see if it is up to the task!
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Thanks for watching!

Пікірлер: 37
@vickdegiorgio2151
@vickdegiorgio2151 10 ай бұрын
I have an old Singer 4525 I use for jeans duty. Jeans needle (18, but I’d have to check), cotton jeans thread, Gutermann. You’ve probably figured this all out by now, but a few tips: Use the hump jumper. The machine can’t feed if the presser foot isn’t pressing flat against the denim. Both sides of both side hems. Start with the needle in the fabric. It gives the machine one revolution to build momentum. Turn the jeans inside out. It gives a better angle for approaching those side seams. It is not the power of the machine that is important, it’s the gearing - torque. My singer 4525 is geared rather low. Singer achieved the faster speed on the HD series by gearing up, which gives decent running speed but reduced piercing power. I had one and returned it - mainly because the machine wasn’t balanced for high speed and shook itself off the bench at full throttle. Then why bother.
@rpprevost
@rpprevost 11 ай бұрын
To solve the presser foot getting stuck under the seam problem, sew from the other direction. On the top of the heavy duty machine, directly above the presser foot bar, there is adjustment knob that allows you to increase or decrease the downward pressure of the foot.
@vickdegiorgio2151
@vickdegiorgio2151 10 ай бұрын
One more thing - what’s happening when the presser foot gets too high is that it’s disengaging the tension disks. You may need to adjust the height of the presser foot bar.
@janetschneider2093
@janetschneider2093 11 ай бұрын
I always use my Jean-A-Ma-Jig when going over thick seams. Similar to your hump jumper. It helps keep the foot flat instead of trying to climb up at an angle over the seam.
@pantac4493
@pantac4493 11 ай бұрын
I know you’re testing the machines capability but another trick to save some trouble is to reduce the seam by 4 layers by cutting out a notch the length of one fold of hem. After, when you fold the hem, you will notice there will be a raw edge at the notch but it can contained by zig zag before hemming or a quick fix with hand stitching after the hem is sewn
@r.duroucher225
@r.duroucher225 11 ай бұрын
What a fine video. One point I would make is that the problem with using the handwheel as you did with the Singer HD is that the machine has plastic gears. When one uses the handwheel instead of the motor, one risks breaking the gears. In fact, that's pretty much the most common way that people manage to destroy these plastic geared machines. For what it's worth, if the motor is not capable of punching the needle through the material, the machine is at it's maximum capability. Using the handwheel will generally be fine with vintage machines with steel or brass gears. It generally isn't fine with plastic geared machines. That's the way to break the gears, especially the hook pinion gear on a horizontal hook machine. FWIW: If I were concerned that the motor on a Singer 201 isn't powerful enough to sew through multiple layers, I would never use the handwheel because it has a spring mounted textolite gear in the handwheel which too is liable to break if one uses the handwheel. As far as vintage Singer machines to sew through multiple lawyers of denim, try a Singer 15. Singer sales people used to demonstrate these machines by sewing through tin soup cans. The other machine I would use would be a vintage Kenmore. I recently sewed through 16 lawyers of medium weight cotton on a Kenmore 148 series machine. The Kenmore 158 series has a dual belt system that multiplies the punching power of the needle rather dramatically. It too would be a great choice.
@thejasonofalltrades
@thejasonofalltrades 11 ай бұрын
Hi! Thanks for sharing this information, you have an interesting perspective! I have a slightly different take on this; much of the time, I use the hand wheel not because the motor cannot drive the needle through the fabric, but because it allows me greater control over the speed at which the needle is driven through the fabric. I've been using the hand wheel on various machines for a decade now, and so far haven't broken one. I'm not saying that your advice is incorrect, it sounds very sensible, but I don't think it's a "NEVER use the hand wheel" thing so much as a "don't use the hand wheel to FORCE a machine to sew something it can't." Thanks for adding to the conversation!
@mikyboy7771
@mikyboy7771 11 ай бұрын
I noticed that you are "helping" the fabric towards the needle, and I suspect that by so doing you may be deflecting the needle, there is a lot of material already there and any hint of pushing will definitely also move the needle off. I agree with you about the needle hype... they don't always have to be fabric specific.... Thank for the many, lessons tips and tricks along the years.
@bbrachman
@bbrachman 11 ай бұрын
As to needle choices...I tried using a Universal needle to sew standard elastic into a loop. One inch wide overlapped. My Bernina 1000 kept making birds nests under the stitch. I switched the needle to an 'elastic' needle. Next two seams were like butter. Smooth, even, no tangles or anything. In my case, the needle did make a difference. I also did a test on joining two 3 oz leather pieces together. Skiving 1/2 inch on both pieces (one grain side, one flesh side). Then contact cemented the overlap. Sewed with a leather needle and a Universal needle. The leather needle gave me no trouble. The Universal needle created uneven stitches. I guess the needle really has to cut the surface of the leather instead of just punching through. Who knew?
@laurensplompen
@laurensplompen 11 ай бұрын
I can concur on the stretch/elastic needle. Universal needles tend to occasionally grab along some of the elastic threads in the fabric which looks bad, makes the elastic more prone to tearing, and can cause bird nesting. It really behaves differently when you use a stretch/knit/jersey needle
@shadowgolem9158
@shadowgolem9158 11 ай бұрын
Great demo! Thank you for your reviews of this machine!
@thejasonofalltrades
@thejasonofalltrades 11 ай бұрын
During this video, I was trying to say that the guys at the Ripstop On The Record podcast were kind enough to mention me on an episode, but I distracted myself and never finished the point. I really appreciate the mention, and if you listen to podcasts and haven't checked out Ripstop On The Record, you're missing some informative and entertaining content, so check them out! Link to the podcast on KZfaq - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h9OjncSS1rjSfZ8.html
@johng1097
@johng1097 11 ай бұрын
The main difference between a denim needle and a regular needle is that the needle is a little thicker so it doesn’t snap as easily if you push the side seam through the machine, AND the eye is quite a bit larger to allow top stitching thread to be used without t dragging a little so the machine doesn’t have tension issues.
@calholli
@calholli 11 ай бұрын
What I do in these situations, when you can't even push it through by hand turning the wheel: I reach down at the need holder and push down at the needle itself while also turning the wheel by hand. It's less stress on the gears and wheel, and you usually only have to do it a few times to get passed it and then you're back to sewing as normal. And I always do a nice 5-back stitch on both sides just to trap that thick fold, even if you didn't get it stitched like you wanted.
@jjaylad
@jjaylad 8 ай бұрын
Just cut out 2 layers of the hem section where it intersects with the inseam.
@unsuccessfulhermit
@unsuccessfulhermit 11 ай бұрын
Thanks for doing this, It astounds me that any company designs a machine that cannot just do this it's the minimum ability for any machine imho, let along anything called a 'heavy duty' machine.
@thejasonofalltrades
@thejasonofalltrades 11 ай бұрын
Hi! I have to respectfully disagree that hemming these jeans, at least, is far from what I would call the "minimum ability for any machine." Allowing for the possibility that there is some trick or technique I am not aware of, the bulk of that seam was challenging for every machine I tried it on. I've been sewing for over ten years, and have made a LOT of useful gear, including items I have used every single day for many years, on machines that would (or did) struggle to get over that seam. I may have failed to clearly communicate just how thick the denim is in this pair of jeans; some thinner denim might be far easier, but this was a very challenging seam, and the Singer HD did a lot better than I expected it to.
@unsuccessfulhermit
@unsuccessfulhermit 11 ай бұрын
@@thejasonofalltrades Respectfully - Oh I get they all struggled, and yes in industry it is done a specialist machine, but the majority of machines manufactured today would hardly get over a seam in a pair of very light fabric pants leg - let alone take up a a pair of work pants, or walking pants, let alone sew through anything heavy gear related, especially not without just given up having chewed its self to pieces.. Singer for many years re-badged the same machine that your testing as a ''jeans capable' here in Oz, same machine just badged as the machine 'for denim projects'. You can imagine the returns and the subsequent pull from market as it wouldn't do as advertised - I had debated getting one for donkey work and was warned off by the local chain sewing store staff as they had had so many returns, and so many catastrophic failures. I will give you that I am biased, I dislike the throw away mentality which cheap manufacturing has brought about. I like you have old recycled machines that just work, and are easily serviceable and repairable 100 years after manufacture. This if nothing else should be the standard for the brand. Even if neither of them will sew through the seam at least your 201 will last another little while. I would think you've already seen the best out of the modern machine. There are multiple issues at play, but you've perhaps unintentionally persuaded a lot of the chat respondents to look out for a recycled machine - but perhaps that was a self selecting group anyways.
@michaelduke4500
@michaelduke4500 11 ай бұрын
This Singer "may" be able to do denim hems a few times, but the heft of the material will be murder on the gears long term. The Singer so reminds me of an Easy Bake Oven, but would be a good starter machine without all the bells in whistles. Side note, using a different foot on the Sailrite could have helped if they actually make a longer foot for the machine. Last but not least, never ask a domestic machine to do industrial / commercial work on heavy fabrics, it will bite you in the butt so many times.
@eriklehnsherr
@eriklehnsherr 11 ай бұрын
After you said it was offset, I looked at 5 pair of my jeans, FR denim material of my work pants, they are all slightly offset by about half the seam width.... Interesting
@thejasonofalltrades
@thejasonofalltrades 11 ай бұрын
I never noticed or gave it a second's thought before myself!
@johnmabry9728
@johnmabry9728 11 ай бұрын
Curious why you didn’t turn it inside out?
@thejasonofalltrades
@thejasonofalltrades 11 ай бұрын
Did you miss the part where I state that I have no idea how to hem jeans? 😁
@jharbo1
@jharbo1 11 ай бұрын
Thank you so much for the comprehensive demo on using the Heavy duty to hem jeans. I have mixed feelings about this machine. The only reason I would buy one would be to make jeans, and I am not sure this machine would hold up after making a couple of pair of jeans and a jean jacket or two without tearing up the hook. Even tho size 16 and 18 "jeans" needles are available to purchase most anywhere where sewing supplies are for sale, those needles will tear up the hook on most dressmaking type machines. I am sure that is the advantage of having a Sailright walking foot machine. It can handle heavier needles and thicker thread. By the way, I did not like that polyester thread you used to hem the jeans. I think that if the thread was 100% cotton, it would not have had as many skipped stitches especially on the 201. Machines built prior to the "invention" of polyester threads do not perform well using those threads because of the elasticity of the artificial fiber made from plastic. Cotton has stretch, but it does not have "memory" that snaps back into shape. The "memory" in the polyester thread will cause an older machine's needle to bounce and make skipped stitches as well as all sorts of hell in the bobbin feed, lol. Love you bigly. God bless.
@hippitukka
@hippitukka 11 ай бұрын
I guess only triple feed sewing machine would do better in this scenario? HD definitely has proven to be a lot better than expected.
@thejasonofalltrades
@thejasonofalltrades 11 ай бұрын
I would love to know what the factories use (or what technique I am missing to make it better)!
@sphinxios
@sphinxios 11 ай бұрын
i have done those kinda heavy seams with a "75 titanium coated needle" just with a "normal" thread. one has just to let the machine do its work and let it move the the fabric. in my begginings i broke many needles due to inexperience. one has to be careful when moving over thick seams(many layers) with a thinnish needle, for thicker thread i would use thicker needles. it all depends on the variables. lately i broke 4 needles when i was making my kilt when i was attaching the belt loops. having a machine and liking to sew with it will let you want to sew more with it no matter if it is a modern machine or a vintage one . some modern machines are not made for thicker thread at least that was what i was told so thats why i am sticking to vintage one since in manuals different threads are mentoined, not sure about this on modern ones though since i dont own one. my most modern is a singer 764 and that has broken plastic in it and parts for it is not available.
@laurensplompen
@laurensplompen 11 ай бұрын
Wait, when you were winding that bobbin, did the end of the thread (the part you were holding) just snap off? How?
@paulhopper9879
@paulhopper9879 11 ай бұрын
By holding on to the thread and pulling on it just a little as the bobbin is spinning, it causes the tread to rapidly twist to the point of failure and gives that satisfying snap.
@laurensplompen
@laurensplompen 11 ай бұрын
@@paulhopper9879 I never knew! Guess what I'm going to try next time I load a bobbin 😁
@danishskiwarehouse
@danishskiwarehouse 11 ай бұрын
Me too! 😄😄
@thejasonofalltrades
@thejasonofalltrades 11 ай бұрын
@paulhopper9879 nailed it! I have found that it can be thread-dependent, though, so some thicker threads may not snap off readily. I don't think I've had V69 do it, but I can't swear to it.
@johng1097
@johng1097 11 ай бұрын
Here’s a good explanation of how the humpjumper works. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fNtmntifqrfDpIk.html
@kennethgates5790
@kennethgates5790 11 ай бұрын
I will finish watching this later but that’s usually what I use my Thompson for .
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