Cameron, your content is good, but it would be better if you would talk slower or more articulate, i am non native english speaker and it was hard to understand you at certain moments. Content wise, it is 9/10 👌

They may be rated to 240V but what is there Current rating...? I would have thought that they would fine for lighting but not for high current items like Heaters...?

Most houses here in the UK have no neutral in the light switch box. I have a few sonoff/Tasmota Basic devices installed in the ceiling.

@@reg2590 they introduced it as a standard here in 2000. Typically my house was built in 1999!

Approved equipment.erac.gov.au/Public/Profiles.aspx?ApplicationID=9340db79-7bea-489d-a98c-cff1da474111 The PM Mini too.

Thanks! The switches are available in both printed and non-printed versions. However the "Push" ones were easy to pick up in Toolstation whereas the non-printed ones cost double the price and were only available from electrical wholesalers. I suspect the printed ones are useful in certain situations such as door bells or door release buttons since they imply "push this" rather than people thinking they're just a light switch. Personally I don't mind them - it almost helps to visually justify a switch that looks like it's off when the lights are on.

I use regular bulbs in the hallway but I use smart bulbs in the living room and bedroom with the Shelly being used as a switch input to turn them on/off. I like using smart bulbs as they allow me to change the colour temperature based on the time of day and dim individual bulbs - I have downlights so it's nice to be able to dim different rows to different levels. That said, I strictly use Zigbee smart bulbs that can be controlled over the local network and have the Shelly override I demonstrated towards the end of the video - I'm not going to use smart bulbs that require a working internet connection! A centre off switch would be nice but wouldn't have been practical with my existing hallway wiring. I have a 3 core cable going between the two switches where the permanent supply loops in and out of one switch and the light is connected to the other switch. Therefore, the 3 core cable needs to carry both a permanent live and neutral leaving only a single unused core that I could use as a switched live. If I wanted to use centre off switches at all positions in the hallway, I'd have needed to add an additional Shelly to the switch by the front door which didn't really seem worth it for something as minor as hallway lights where all I really care about is "full brightness" and "low brightness" As for ease of use by others - this is a major aim for everything I do with my smart home setup. Anywhere I have smart lighting has a physical, regular looking switch on the wall. Sure, they're retractive so when someone first goes to use one they might find it feels a bit weird, but when the lights turn on they very quickly get the idea! For rooms with more complicated smart lighting (smart bulbs, RGB/CCT.etc) I have a small touch screen above the switch with very obvious buttons/sliders such as "Brightness" "Colour Temperature" and some shortcuts "Warm," "Cool," "Nightlight". I feel this is much more intuitive in comparison to being forced to talk to a voice assistant.

@@camerongray1515 Thanks Cameron. Appreciate your response. That all makes sense and sounds good. I may have to give these a try! I also have a Texecom Premier Elite 24 panel so my mind is whirring with fun use cases :)

Faceplates are from the "MK Dimensions" product range and the switches are just regular MK grid switches. They're available from larger electrical wholesalers - CEF, Rexel.etc. That said, you should be able to get suitable retractive grid switches for most electrical accessory ranges - personally I prefer to find out the range that all of the other electrical accessories in the property are and buy the grid system from that range so everything matches.

Many automations can run on the shelly itself. As such they don't need wifi. If you set the mode to toggle or follow the switch will still work locally.

I technically could use the alarm PIRs to trigger lights - however my PIRs are wireless and sleep for a period of time after detecting motion so they may not be ideal for controlling lighting. I do have plans to look into some sort of automatic lighting but for that I'd likely use a human presence sensor - they're relatively affordable nowadays and can also detect people when they are sitting still vs a PIR which can only detect motion (and generally this motion needs to be pretty significant).

@@camerongray1515 Ah, that did occur to me, I assume the sensors go to sleep to preserve the batteries. It's interesting, I've seen other alarms do that. How long do they sleep for once motion has been detected? In terms of presence sensors, how do they differ in terms of operation and detection from a typical passive infra-red motion sensor? I have a little battery powered nightlight in my hallway, and it uses an infra-red motion detector on it, it works beautifully and has been in service for nearly 9 years, I love it. Maybe you could replace your wireless motion sensor in your hallway with a wired one for the purpose of controlling the lights, but you've already said you're considering using an occupancy sensor. I'm looking forward very much to what you do with this setup in the future.

That's fair, although realistically the only real option is going to be to either disconnect them or to only perform an IR test by connecting L&N together and then testing between those and the CPC. It's also sensible to initially IR test at 230v and only then ramp that up to 500v once the reading shows that the circuit is clear. That way you'd find out about any connected loads before you cause any damage. Even if they were 500v tolerant, you still wouldn't get any sort of usable readings with them in circuit. Although as you've said, this isn't really any different to USB sockets or other hardwired devices such as smoke detectors or integrated LED downlights. As for unattended EICRs, fortunately I own my flat so I don't have to deal with regular, unannounced EICRs and to be honest, I tend to test circuits myself whenever I'm doing things so don't really have any plans to get a complete EICR done any time soon, and I definitely wouldn't be having that done while I'm not at home! In a situation where regular EICRs were required, I suppose you could at least connect the Shelly in using a couple of Wagos to make it easy to link out while testing or as I had with my previous setup, install key switches to allow the Shellys to easily be disconnected. I suppose Shelly could also include some sort of isolation switch on the devices although they're already so small and densely packed, I suspect that'll be unlikely. It's probably also not a bad idea to leave a clear label on the consumer unit stating which circuits have hardwired electronics on them and not to IR test them without disconnecting them.

@@camerongray1515 Awesome reply, thank you :-) That deserves a Like and Subscribe...

To me it depends on what I'm doing. Generally I lean more towards Zigbee devices (all of my smart bulbs are Zigbee for example) but I don't mind using WiFi devices as long as it works purely over a local network, runs on an isolated VLAN and where the WiFi version gives more functionality. In the case of Shelly devices - while they do offer Zwave devices, they don't have a complete range (no dimmers, LED controllers.etc) and they don't support a lot of the features that the WiFi versions offer - e.g. the scripting which allowed me to set up my "fallback switch" for my smart bulbs. WiFi devices get a somewhat bad reputation thanks to cheap smart devices that require a cloud connection and don't work without it, this isn't the case for any of the WiFi smart home devices I use.

Thanks for the recommendation! I've been meaning to set up some sort of automatic colour temperature adjustment but never got around to it thinking I'd need to implement something manually, will need to check that integration out!

One thing that frustrates me with adaptive lighting is if you e.g. turn the light on at 8am full brightness, then you next turn the light on at 11pm it first flashes to 100% brightness as thats its previous state, then goes to the correct dimmer light. There's nothing built in to fix this afaik.

I havent encountered that problem. I have my smart bulbs always on with the shelly acting as a detached switch. That could be the reason why, but my lights always turn on at the correct brightness

Mine are always on too (as in powered, not lit), unclear why you don't get because AFAIK no LED bulbs give you control of brightness while they're unlit. I have Hue, they don't suffer from this while under the hub due to some fancy software magic. But if you take them off the hub with Zigbee2MQTT or whatever its a problem.

​@@Whoop0I think this depends entirely on your setup. My smart bulbs have a brightness parameter that can be optionally sent when turning the light on, so it turns on at the correct brightness and there is no flickering.

Not yet. Not out of the box.

I haven't measured but I'm pretty sure they're 47mm boxes and are also set back a fair bit from the surface of the wall, at any rate there's plenty space.

FYI shelly just released a mini series that is a bit smaller.

I already have plans to implement time based control across all of my lighting as a larger project but until then I decided that long pressing the switch was the way that I wanted it to work for now.

I'm now using a Ruckus R650 access point if that's what you're referring to? Or the round thing next to it is a smoke alarm.

@35.48 have you moved away from unifi now? And how come?

@@justintemp I have, however it was only so I can try different things and produce videos on them, there is still nothing wrong with UniFi and I still continue to recommend and use it, I'll even be releasing a video that involves some UniFi hardware this week. I just like to also make sure that I cover other options as well as I feel like KZfaq has become saturated with content that makes out as if UniFi is the only option for running a high end network.

Agree. I find a lot of unifi is done via the community. There's no official support as such Good APs but expensive hobby

​@@justintemp That's true although equally, the same applies for most other vendors unless you're looking to explicitly pay for a support contract. Sure, Ruckus has commercial support but as a home user who isn't willing to pay for a support contract, I'm also stuck with community support and at that point, the UniFi community is likely a better option due to its sheer size.

This used to be the case. But at least with the plus model (gen2 and later) it is possible.

@@Felix-st2ue yeah I recently discovered this, buying some more now :)

I already have plans to properly measure the power consumption of these and in particular take a look at their eco modes to see how much this helps things. Obviously lower power consumption is better, but given how good the functionality of the Shelly devices are, I"m happy to deal with the relatively small power increase over a Zigbee device which is minuscule in the overall scheme of things. Even if these 5 shelly devices drew 2W each (which is a massive overestimate), they'd cost less than £2/mo. To me, they're well worth that cost. Generally I do tend to lean towards Zigbee devices but they don't offer all of the functionality I wanted here such as the scripting I'm using on the Shelly Plus 1 Minis.

I find WiFi itself isn't really the issue as long as you have decently reliable access points. The issue with cheap smart WiFi devices is generally their reliance on some sort of cloud service which can be unreliable. With this setup here, everything operates over my local network so is extremely reliable. Lutron is also a good option, but for me I want the ability to control smart bulbs (adjustable colour temperature, ability to dim individual bulbs) so if I were to go down the Lutron route, there would still need to be some level of local network involvement anyway to handle those. I did consider using Pico remotes as inputs to my smart home system instead of Shellys and using them to control smart bulbs, and it's something I'd be interested in trying in the future, but at least in the UK, Lutron's RA2 Select system is extremely expensive when you scale to any sort of reasonable level.

Slow the video down with the playback speed.

They have UL versions on their US store.

That's just how I talk, I'm not going to start putting on a fake accent for my KZfaq videos... Trust me, I try to speak as clearly as possible, but I'm not a professional speaker and it's not something that is easy to do when talking for an extended period of time while also trying to do everything else that comes along with producing a KZfaq video. If that's an issue, then there are plenty of other smart home KZfaq channels that talk with a more familiar accent for you to watch...

You can just change the speed of the video.

KZfaq app allows any speed from 0.25x to 2x in 0.25 steps plus subtitles

Agreed. And I don't think you need to apologise for saying that - it's constructive criticism not just complaining. I'm a native English speaker but I've had to slow the video down to follow it. It's an interesting video so I'll stick it out but I can see how other people would just click away. It's something that can be (and should be) easily fixed for future videos too.

Agree.

It's his accent lad