Like you put the paste on the back of the module and it helped your issue?

@@SendNoodNoDudes yeah pretty much. After doing this little modification I haven't had a single issue since.

It really works with that thermal heat pad? Meaning the heat would be channel off from the circuit board itself with these thermal heat pads? Btw, what’s the error message pops up on your idrive and your BMW model?

glad we could help!

If he used .5mm thickness pads and had to put 6 layers, do you think 1 layer of 3mm thickness would work better? Or maybe 3 layers of 1mm thickness so I have some adjustability?

Did you get it coded after getting replaced?

@@Malika12321 no I didn’t have to do any coding. It was plug and play.

Check codes first, depending on mileage i would recommend both pump and module but the codes will point you in the right direction.

@@gilgonzalez5902 thanks for the reply, I changed the module and the problem hasn’t happened since.

that i am not sure of

I have the same problem with my 2012 f30. I thought my car ran out of gas the first time as I had 30 miles left and it said fuel supply low. Today, it shut off again alerting “fuel supply low” and then losing power. I’ve noticed that’s when it’s really hot that’s when it tends to happen.

yes I believe you can

Did you solve the issue?

@@kumharkewal7229 yes i changed from an ekpm2 module to a ekpm3 and also installed a Torqbyte pm4 fuel controller setup and car has been great! check out the Torqbyte pm4 website

@@copper067 I’m experiencing the same issues on my 2013 328i. My car turned off in the middle of the road after about 20 minutes of driving. The car wouldn’t turn back on. It would turn but but would not start. After a couple minutes of google searching, I found that a quick fix was to press the unlock and then lock button on the key fob. My car turned on after I did that. If I switch out the module, do I need to reprogram my car? ( I don’t know how to reprogram). Will my car work if I don’t get the new module reprogrammed? Thanks

@@doinitlive3015 you will need to code the new ekp module to the car. The key fob trick makes the fuel pump prime itself but you will still have cutoff issues and no start only crank. I've purchased the Bpm4 unit from spool street and haven't had anymore problems.

You can tell by the numbers in the modules

Damn ! That sucks

I use to get spontaneous stalls about once a week. Trying to restart the car immediately would crank the engine, but it engine wouldn't stay on. Would have to wait an hour for it to restart normally. Last time I disconnected the battery and it restarted after. Can't recall check engine code given, but I'm sure it didn't help me in diagnosing the problem. I switched it with a part from the junk yard, and the problem never happened again in over 2 years.

e50 but you can run up to full e85 on a 450

Bro Moha Mohammad, are you from Malaysia? Does your F30 experienced this EKP over heating issue? Mind to share some thoughts here or perhaps a private whataspp if you’re ok with it. I’m from Malaysia and I’m experiencing this EKP heating up on my F30 lately.

If the module was brand new then yes. In fact, keep in mind that if new, and you don’t program it right away you can actually be damaging your car by running a part without coding to your specific vehicle HOWEVER, if it’s actually a part that came off the same chassis and base model of your car you should be fine because it was already programmed before

It has help up perfectly. No issues since!

Just keep the module cooler

How do you do a voltage fix?

it might be different for F30's so I would double check but if it is there you just have to pull toward you pretty hard

@@ChicagoE9X yep got it and swapped out the module with a new one and still have the code I think it needs to be reprogrammed

Do u think I should just try the heat pad thing on the original instead

you probably could yes

was the new ekp from a similar car?

Yes everything has been running perfect ever since. Ive done many long drives and the car no longer stalls and my long crank has definitely gone away

That almost sounds more like a battery issue if it didn’t even crank. Fuel pump plausibility is just a code BMW throws around for no reason and usually means nothing about the fuel pump

Thank you .I was told the same only Replaced the fuel pump yesterday. I’m hoping it fixed the problem. New mechanic said it was no need to replace the fuel module.

In my case the weak/old original fuel pump damaged the module so in warm weather the module was still overheating after about 45 min of driving. So after replacing the pump in the tank i still ended up needing to replace the module.

I just replaced my fuel pump and my now I have the new module but I don’t want to pay bmws prices

Thank you bro! So a new LOW pressure fuel pump is needed and not a EKP module? Or do I need to get the LPFP and a new EKP

Hey thought I’d chime in on this comment 2012 bmw 535i of 04/12 Fuel supply low warning Dtc fault 481b01 ekps control voltage low Replaced the following Hpfp updated connector Fuel rail sensor on back of fuel rail along valve cover Lpfp brand new Replaced and program/coded ekp Still receiving dtc fault 481b01 Module still seems to be getting warm after 15 min of driving I lose voltage at the electric pump phase a I’m burning out in circles on this one if anybody has any tips would be greatly appreciated

Hey do you still have these codes

it shouldn't no

Small holes may work yes but I wouldn’t feel comfortable doing that because then you can get moisture build up in the module.

Sounds like hpfp failure

@@ChicagoE9X - I think I'm having the same issue with my M2. Started after running an e30 blend. We've checked coils, replaced the plugs, replacing the LPFP today. The car hesitates on cold starts and takes longer to start. Sometimes it stalls. Then runs fine until WOT. Stock tune it runs almost perfect. Sputtered once. Anything more aggressive, fuel system crashes. I have both the LPFP and HPFP upgraded for over a year. Never had a problem until recently... Did you ever figure it out?

@@greendotadvertising It did end up being the EKP module. This should be fixed for newer generation cars i believe but I can look into it and get back to you. It could be the LPFP

If you need more cooling any slim laptop fan with a restrictor could be wired in, or soldier to power source. Have a 3d printed bracket so it matches the added thickeness and longer screws threaded. maybe a larger fuse would need to be installed, check current draws. Probably wire off the power from module or an accessory that runs when the car turns on like an accessory light. It will definetly help if the pillar has enough gap, on interior delete builds its a definite solution seen it work with the extra thermal pads

no there was no smoke

@@ChicagoE9X got it thank u

no lpfp is just drop in plug and play

@@ChicagoE9X thanks🙇🏻 will have it done today🙂

@@anthonysychung214 how did the fuel pump install come out ? Did you have a problem ?

I don't sorry but if you google how to download it I believe there's a tutorial

Vehicular DIY made a good video on how to replace the module. This is just to fix overheating

@@ChicagoE9X I ended up buying a cheap ekp module off ebay pulled from an 09 128i. The mechanic installed a cpu fan in the cover so it wouldnt over heat again. so far it has worked

@@aannalese still workimg since you did that?

I would start by just replacing the bulbs since theyre way cheaper than a battery

@@ChicagoE9X and what about the car stalling? You think it would be the module?

@@MistahmiZheJAH it could be

test battery and alternator with a multimeter

You could give it a shot to see it won’t hurt anything. Could also be hpfp or the lpfp itself

Probably can use either

the ekp3 modules are definitely worth buying but honestly doing this is good practice anyways since they can still overheat due to the nature of the placement and having no fan

Hi mine only appear to ekp: voltage too low but no current too high. Is my module or lpfp that need change. Or i need to change both?

or should i just put gpu thermal pad on them. These module pretty expensive in my country :)

@@ayn30 I wound up replacing mine and it solved the issue. I bought it from fcp euro. I don't know if you can order from them from your country but if you can, it's worth it. They have a lifetime warranty on all parts, no questions asked. So you can use it for 50k miles or whatever, buy a new one, send back the old one and they will refund you the price for the original one, pretty sweet deal.

@@_jovian I am from south east asia. So basically the shipping from europe will cost more than item values.

yeah definitely try it!

You may just need a new unit or a battery issue

yes. ours overheated multiple times and this still fixed it

the module could be completely done unfortunately. This solution is to help prevent the module from frying itself but in this case it may have been too late

Buy one from ebay and code with NCS. I'm gonna try that soon.

Mustafa, Have you resolved this. I didn’t the same thing and my car also stalls in one mile. Thinking about adding a small cooling fan

I actually figured it out. Most thermal pads have heat conductivity of about 12W/k. Iron has 40w/k, aluminum has 230w/k ..so by installing a thermal pad between two metal plates, we’re actually making things worse (poor heat transfer). Unless you use extremely thin thermal paste that just fills the groves in the metal. Best bet would be using some heat sinks (10$) and a small fan. Or buy a new ekps

@@ChicagoE9X Can I bypass coding on the module and just jump starting the starter. Or do I have to code it by computer?

No I do not believe there is anything for the control unit at all

its on nhtsa site for f30 335i. but bmw dealership is straight up denying it! basically tells me i have to pay for 350 diag fee no matter what and that he sees no recalls whatsoever. PSYCHO! i contacted bmw north american they did nothing too!

Yeah BMW North America is the worst. Complete full of issh and useless. The service for these pumps ask to replace the fuel pump control unit as well. Reason being, they control the voltages sent to the pump itself. What has been happening, the original fuel control unit doesn't mate well with the new fuel pumps installed during the campaign so they unfortunately fail again. I went through this ordeal with my N55, different platform, and the dealer tried to pawn off the new repair bill at close to 3k which included a new pump AND fuel pump control unit as the procedure asks for. I had a disagreement with my service advisor and pressed him on the fuel pump issue. The fuel pump is lifetime due to the recall. The control unit is anywhere 150.00 to 300.00 depending on where you shop and not 3000.00. So back and forth for a couple and they wouldn't budge. So I sold the vehicle and done with F'n BMW. FU!% BMW, BMW North America, and that BMW Dealership. Good luck to you all dealing with that brand. The world would be a better place if BMW returned all the money it's owners spent on repairs and the company itself simply goes bankrupt. I'm speaking from experience of owning numerous BMWs. Better off just running them into the ground and throw them in the trash.

@@prospectla6316 man he made me so mad( first he/SERVICE MANGER)gave my friend run around on phone like 20 MINUTES STRAIGHT/ SO I GOT ON PHONE I WAS LIKE MAN WHAAAT IIIIIN TTTTTHE WORLD ARE U TALKIN ABOUT! FRIGGIN PSYCHO I TELL U. he said ok ok ok ok ok that hed get rt on it (call north america to speak to lady i told him i spoke with).lady enver called me back so i KNO HE DIDNT CALL HER JERKOUT never called me back either and I NEVER CALLED HIM BACK! man what a sorry pos! he literally denied/said he couldnt see 3 recalls on nhtsa( u cant miss em!) , i said by law u have to fix all these! BY LAW! what a jerk out! man if european bmw new american dealerships were doin this to their brand i bet u theyd do somethin bout it. this is trash like u said! good quality but american dealers turn it to trash and really REALLY make it down rt disgusting bein that way.itll come back to em when their wives/husbands leave em, theyre broke, on crack/alcohol wondering why life treated them sooooo badly.. lol its not life time(lpfp for n55) but it is a SUPER extended warranty on the pump, like until 2026 and or 150,000 miles. which i have plenty of that left! i did call north america back and ANOTHER JERK, told me last lady i spoke with didnt kno what she was talkin bout! i bout sht myself! REALLY???????????????????? toyota dealerships here doin it also! toyota in japan dealers give u all sorts of free sh@t.. let u come to dealerships and eat free, party do whatever u want. man i wouldnt go to another dealership here if THEY paid me a years worth o gas or fixed a recall! the stress isnt worth it that alone! this is why there are hackers but people wanna put them in jail! what? theyre only hope america has!

@@jackhere4594 unfortunately it's a game of Money. BMW doesn't care cause the money is always coming in. The minute they will care is when the money stops. That includes leases and etc. The 1% doesn't care, cause they are throw away cars to them. It's all about what makes sense in terms of the dollar when buying, selling, or leasing these BMW vehicles. People need to treat the brand like the 1% do, run them into the ground and throw them away and understand the cost in the process. Either use the loss as leverage in a business for a service or product roll out or something else. As long as BMW continues to build cars, Engine leaks and Failures will continue to exist. It's all about what side of the dollar you are on when it is time to dump the vehicle.

we never got any errors or codes the car would just5 randomly shut off

I just started dealing with this issue too. No check engine light, like many said, the car just shuts off and the only light I would get is the car on the lift with the message of service engine soon.

@@ChicagoE9X I just finished putting the thermal pads on and even the thermal paste on the cover but now it shuts off even sooner and it’s not even hot out. It idles rough just before shutting off. Any suggestions?

@@OOrtiz87 sounds like the car isn't getting any fuel. Make sure everything is plugged back in. If everything is good then lpfp or hpfp is out

@@ChicagoE9X Gas light is on, only has 36 miles left (wife left it almost empty) maybe if I can fuel up it’ll correct itself? Wishful thinking.

It technically isn't needed but this can still happen even on stock fuel pumps.

@@ChicagoE9X just ordered ekp3 for my stage 2.5 walbro 535 v2. Heard that revised version draws less current.

Ever get a answer for this ?

Why did you disconnect the battery in the first place? This module is wired with a simple 12v connector... It's not like an airbag that can detonate in your face. Now it's impossible to say what has happened... Maybe you killed the module while applying the pads/paste if you weren't careful with it?

Yes but check your codes for voltage codes.

it shouldn't be happening on b58 but you never know with bmw's lol

What did u find out? My b58 did the same thing.

@@codyway7424 it was the lpfp under the back seats. I was running the car stage 2 and the mistake I made was running the tank empty which was burning out the lpfp due to the increase in more fuel being needed for the tune

Idk if you ever notice when you’re low gas and you get into high rpm’s the car kinda falls on its face it’s because the lpfp is burning out

@@SlowG70 I'll watch for that. No tune, half tank of gas, came out of a restaurant and it would start and run a few seconds then quit. Towed home. Nest day it started right up. I'm taking it to a shop with the bmw software next week to let them see if they can tell anything.

usually no that could be an injector, hphp, or lpfp issue or even sparks and coils. I would start with the cheapest items first

@@ChicagoE9X I did all the injectors and coils spark plugs ass well already

@@jorarr5174 is lean towards high pressure fuel pump then. Are you getting any codes?

@@ChicagoE9X no codes at all just sometimes I come to a stop an stall and I press the gas and wont go it goes slow but if I turn the car of them on everything back to normal speed

I have a 2009 335i 4 door it's by the back passager seat on the side paddling.

It’s definitely not there, I’m starting to think maybe my model doesn’t have one to begin with?

Step by step guide kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fd6imr1zntidfKs.html

Thanks Sam, but my model doesn’t seem have that part on either side, I have checked both sides 🤔 it’s very strange!

What make and model is your car exactly

Mine was yes but only in warm weather. In the winter it was perfect.

it has held up perfectly... no issues since

Same here .. like it over heats ... i pull key out and as soon as iscreen turns off and dash lights go out it resets and car starts right up again

Hey bro, if you smell something smoking in your car check that out asap!

online forums dont help much

no not if you use the same one

@@ChicagoE9X fab ty. ordered the heatsink pads will keep you updated. im hoping my module isnt fried as it has only cut out 3times over the past month.

@@sagzr6566 yeah let me know. should be okay

@@sagzr6566 How did that work out for you?

I have a E70 X5 35i. Same issue stalls in warm weather after 5 miles or so. Wait about 10 minutes, then all good. Already replaced the hpfp.

$90 on ebay.

Interesting it might not be a fuel issue then

yep still holding up and no more problems!

Exactly my thoughts. EKP module price is way too ridiculous & still it might had chances of breaking down yet again.

nope it would just shut the car off :/ no codes or limp mode

@@ChicagoE9X my car didn’t shut off it popped up a break light and a triangle with a circle with a arrow and it kicked into limp

Did this help you?

Not since doing this fix no. It’s been perfect

damn I'm sorry to hear that

And if need to change, how can we reprogram?

we found out by replacing the hpfp as well as double checking the lpfp and it still wasn't working. So that's when you should check the module

@@RS-co6nv vehicular diy made an excellent video on how to reprogram a new module so definitely go check that out.

Changed the module. Reprogramming was not needed for my vehicle. Hope it won't stop on the road

@@RS-co6nv ye it's possible the module was already programmed from whoever you purchased it from. Hope it works out!

of course

@@ChicagoE9X i have a 08 328i e90. My car is having the same problem. Randomly turning off while driving mostly after a hour or two of driving or 40 or so mins of idling. then shows car on the lift light. After 5 - 10 mins it will start up again no problem Sometimes it die 10 minutes later down the highway. I had the eccentric drive shaft replaced and that didnt fix it. Now im thinking its the fuel pump control module . any advice?

@@user-zt7zk5ll6d you could try doing this fix to see if it works. You’ll also want to look at the fuel pump and make sure there’s nothing obvious wrong like lines disconnected or cracked.

@@user-zt7zk5ll6d did you get it fixed ? I’m having the same issue. Just replaced my fuel pump on a 328xi and I’m still stalling at 60mph. maybe it’s my module

@@gabrielsterling1196 i have not yet. Im currently working on the problem Still

Hey, how did you end up fixing this? I have same issue. New hpfp and somewhat new lpfp

Did you fix this?