Awww back in the younger days of NYC CNC, miss these videos.

There's something so satisfying when hearing a supressed .22LR.

When threading for supressors you should really do it bore-centric not OD centric. The od and bore can differ by several thou.

I was never good at getting something that straight with a 4 jaw chuck. That's cool man.

Man!!! The conversational interface is so slick.

Great project! Thanks for sharing! There is something fundamentally wrong when the machining time to make a suppressor is less than the time to fill out the government paperwork to make a suppressor, and the cost of the materials to make a suppressor is much less than the government tax to make a suppressor. It's particularly stupid when we realize that a suppressor is to a firearm what a muffler is to a car. I guess it's like Will Rogers said. We should be grateful that we're not getting all of the government we're paying for.

That was great! The Tormach slant bend is amazing, and you make it look easy.

The harmonics are just awesome!

Diggin the Intro John, you're a stand up dude. Glad you enjoyed your project, sound supppppper quiet. Good job.

I think your video was awesome. I've been doing gunsmithing for several years now with manual machines and have been looking at getting into CNC

Glad that worked! Seems like you have a solid design. Like usual great videos!

I’m glad you said suppressor put in the title it says silencer. Great video

Great job John! Most of my work is gunsmithing related and I probably thread more barrels than anything else =) A few tips: As other have suggested, you should indicate off the bore centerline rather than the OD, this will ensure that you don't get any unwanted baffle strikes and will also ensure the least POI shift with and without your can. A DTI works wonders when indicating the bore. I use a B&S 1um indicator (0.00003"), but once the stem is doubled from 1" to 2", the accuracy decreases linearly as well, but it's still good enough to watch for wiggle. I do bounce mine off the lands and grooves and have never had any issues at all. The tolerance stacking from pins and rods (i.e. grizzly rod) will only hurt you in the long run and cost extra in tooling. I try to record my machine work when I can. Here's a video of me threading a Remington 22 with an integral recoil lug that wouldn't fit through my headstock, had to resort to turning between centers =) Almost as fast as your CNC! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fKiZdbOhnMm8lmQ.html Keep the gun-related videos coming!

Good stuff! Great threading!

Love the ½ second view of your Vizsla! They are such great dogs, we have a 14 year-old one. Oh, yea, also appreciate your videos!

Awesome! Congrats! Sounds very quiet.

Nice work. Thank you for sharing

Though I would have to wait to see the suppressor in action, turned out awesome!

That is great. The other day I heard a fellow shoot a Ruger 2245 with a suppressor and using subsonic ammo. You could not hear anything but the slide and the bullet hit the steel Thanks for the video.

Nice project. Very cool. I wish I had a Tormach CNC.

Hey dude, this whole project was super cool!

I like the effort put in the lighting in your recent videos.

Great video!

Really Awesome!!!

In the UK threaded barrels are really popular as we have had suppressors/moderators available to us for a few years for hunting. I've got a 25 year old 10/22 that was factory threaded for the UK market. if you decide to use one, get some subsonic ammo.....REALLY quiet! most of the noise of the supressed .22 is the supersonic crack. with the subsonic ammo you can hear the working parts moving.

Awesome just awesome!

Beautiful! I need me a tormach

I finally found a drawing that shows the screen section like I mentioned. I sent it you on the Facebook messenger.

You are very good at the CNC. GOOD VEIDO!!!

I really enjoy your videos...always informative and entertaining. A point of note, barrels are commonly centerless ground. If you want to avoid baffle strikes, turn between centers. After 20 years as a manufacturer in the NFA would...ask me how i know :)

Nice Job

I have no God damn reason to dislike this video

I hate you,,,,to darn easy with your cool CNC machine,,,,your 3 mins take me 45,,,,,,love it

excelente trabajo

First comment! Well done. I am very impressed with how quiet that is. You can plink all day and take out squirrels, cans, rodents... They wont even know what hit them. Any ways, I absolutely LOVE watching the threading. It is incredible how well that machine does it. Something critical I learned when working on barrels is that they need to be bore centered to ensure the threads are centered on the bore, as there can be some inconsistencies on the OD. Did you crown the barrel yourself? It looked very well finished!

sooo cool!!

Cool intro-speak!

FREAKIN NICE

first round pop at 4:15, nice job as well.

Nice!

Awesome works I like it, I wished to have that for my Sumatra 2500 it's just too loud.

for those of you that do not know you can turn the tool upside down and thread from the shoulder out and not have to worry about the shoulder at all and disengaging is not a worry at all

nice beast...

always nice work it would be good to see how well your one compares to commercial when are you going to sort your big retracts out could of save a bit of time

you sir are a master!!! what type of blade/ tip is used to shred steel like that.?

You might have to specify the threads a little deeper than needed because there is no spring pass in the generated g code. It is nice that the software does a 30 deg compound angle and a constant area method to get the depth, that makes for nice clean threads.

Yep... I'd love to thread that efficient on a manual lathe, mostly with a big shoulder waiting at the end. In Canada we have to get other projects than silencer or we could get jailed, fast... Pierre

Cool!

FYI, When threading for a suppressor, it's very important to indicate from the bore, not the OD of the barrel. I've seen barrels where the OD was nowhere near concentric to the bore. Doesn't look like it was too big of a deal for you this time, but something to keep in mind for the future. Glad to see the suppressor working!

Thanks for the Vid that was awesome I have a suppressor and 2 ruger 10-22 but they both have stock barrels I see you said they don't have enough meat :/ that sucks knowing I need new barrels so I minus well buy threaded ones already..

Wow! What a difference! That's pretty funny that the bolt is louder. lol Will you be doing a production run of those silencer?

awesome job and i love your vids, but i have one question, shouldn't you have zeroed the job to the rifle bore, not the OD? also I would have tidied the end up a bit, which you probably did but didn't show. keep up the good work. :)

Kidd Innovative Design makes a viton bolt stop that would quiet it even more while cycling. For a whopping $5.95.

That is very impressive, I bet it took you longer to set it in the chuck than to machine it..

Nice video and a great job on the barrel and the suppressor. Can you thread SS Barrel? I have a Savage Mark II with a SS Bull Barrel that I would like to have threaded. That CNC Machine is awesome!

Klass!👍👍👍

Very sweet. I have a weakness for 10/22s. I may have missed it but are you going to turn a cap for the threads when the can is not installed? Also are you using a bolt buffer in your current setup? I've heard that it can help to reduce the sound also by softening the impact of the bolt into the buffer rod.

I have a 10/22 barrel I would like to thread. The CNC machine and your setup was good. Did you have to do any spring tuning to get the 10/22 to cycle

OMG listen at 5:20 over and over!!!

Wondering why you set up the barrel by referencing the outside surface rather than the bore? I know most barrels are bored true but I have seen a few that were a bit out.

You will be mighty fine, but never ever indicate a Barrel on the Outside Diameter. Use a Range Rod to indicate it from the Bore :) But great Video, as always!

Wow, that's a cool project. Works awesome. A good dti with a tiny-ball-tip on it can setup from the ID of the barrel. Maybe you can find a good dti laying around your shop somewhere ;] Locating a small ID is a pita tho.

Another great video, but I was curious about threading without doing the relief cut. I have read about guys with manual lathes doing reverse threading so they don't have to make the relief cuts. I'm trying to learn basic machining on a hobby lathe but was curious about if a cnc machine could do the same and thread from the shoulder out safely? plus I was wondering what your opinion is on threading right up to the shoulder? Is it worth the extra hassle or just a lot of extra work for little gain? I can't find any videos so far on the no relief cut threading, but I just heard about it last night so haven't looked very much yet.

Awesome results man!!! I was thinking of asking you for a quote on a 10/22 thread job this winter...are you guys open for business on that front? I wonder how hard it would be to make an electronic bolt cycler. It wouldn't be as fast as gas-operated of course, but being able to lock the bolt closed while firing and then operating the bolt with a solenoid might work. Ejection could be tricky, maybe a separate kicker for that. Not really useful for anything, just fun to think about.

Neat project. What software do you use to help you to produce the suppressor correctly? I always love making good threads on lathes . Lathes for Lathe jobs Mill for mill jobs!

Great video as usual. However, I'd like to see the engraving process if you have footage of that.There are a few IOI inspectors here in TX that have a problem with steel punches for the required markings (City, State, SN# ect.). Not that it matters, but there is always the question, "So, where's your engraver?".

The feed rate you groove with frightens me lol. I usually keep it under .006/rev. After you chew up a couple groove tools you tend to slow things down.

In this case you should have made the runout as to the bore and not as to the OD since the bore 99% of the time is not concentric to the OD. Also I would recommend using a 35 degree like a SVJC holder to cut the relief cut at a 45 degree relief and not as a straight wall, and not the groove tool if you plan on doing this in a larger volume.

Wow! You did a really nice job on that suppressor. I wish I had access to the kind of machines you use.

Whenever threading a barrel you always indicate your center off the bore (ID) not the OD. Most barrels bores are not concentric to the turned down OD profile. Indicating off the OD in most cases positions the thread body off center of the bullet path risking bullet strikes to your muzzle device. You need a correct size ground mandrel to slide into the bore in order to indicate while using a 4 jaw chuck. Using an already factory turned OD for indication like you did would have been easier with an accurate 3 jaw with a .0005" runout and obtained the same setup runout result.

Would it be possible to turn a regular barrels sights down and thread what's left?

Are you using water soluble oil for coolant? It just looks like water to me, I'm just trying to figure out if there is something I haven't seen before that I need to try.

I had my 10/22 threaded for a "can" and it screwed up the crown of the barrel. I am sure they did NOT have the type machine used in the video. Very Cool!

Thumbs up for the Harbor Freight (US General) toolboxes gettin' the job done. $20k lathe sitting beside a $450 toolbox.

were you using sub-sonic rounds?

Did you do anything special to keep the four jaw from marring the barrel finish?

Hi John, what is that stock in your rifle?

With decibel measuring apps available for phones, would have loved to see readings for non-suppressed vs suppressed to see measueable results John

Have you tried running the suppressor wet yet?

So you can make a rear pin of a smaller diameter and sheathe it in a outer of Delrin that will quieten down the action a bit. Taking 5-10 grams out of the bolt will increase reliability with subsonics but will make it unusable with supersonics.

Love your videos, but you cannot index off the outside of the barrel. You need a mandrel and some bushings. Suppressor baffle strikes are possible.

wonder if you can try to thread a henry 22lr octagon barrel. maybe even custom threads on the inside of the barrel then custom fit a suppressor to match the octagon profile? I would really love to see it

John When are you going to do a 1911 build? Jason has files for the frame or sarco has dirt cheap castings for a para p12 for like 30$. I just did one of the sarcos frames and love it.

I'm curious if you could have done this operation on the Tormach CNC Mill with the rotatory add-on? I MAY be able to swing getting a Tormach Mill or Lathe later this year but not both.

Edit: like ten people already brought it up so never mind. I need to get my heavy ten put back together and get working on my .308 form 1.

I always though you have to center the barrel on the chuck from the bore, not from the outside of the barrel? Reason is that the bore might not be perfectly center.

Shouldnt you have aligned the part by the bore and not the OD?

Why did you dial in the od of the barrel and not the bore?

Dude I just got a ruger 1022 tactical with a bull barrel...i live on long island...I gotta have you do this to my barrel. Can we hook up?

Have you ever threaded a p345 Ruger?

I didn't see the CNC machine on amazon so where should i buy one?

If I were to have you and thread turn and thread my 223 rifle barrel how much would it cost.

Do you do barrels for anyone

Where is your shop located i would like to see if your interested in doing a savage b mag varmit 17 wsm

Wow, slow down, take your time, enjoy the machining process....

Almost gave you a thumbs down cuz you won't do gunsmithing work anymore. Good vid!

What threading tool are you using?

How much do you charge to do your majic on a .17?

I know this was uploaded back in 2015, but should you not dial in the machine on the bore not the barrel ? ?

I assume you could do this, but it might be really trick to use a larger diameter bull barrel and machine the "monocore" directly into the end of it. Then just thread it to except the can over the end of it? Thinking out load, if its a stupid idea, don't let the noises in my head bother you....