Nah that actually scares me. When I service brembos at the dealer no matter the mileage(burnouts and hard driving as early or earlier than 15k) the pins always have to smacked out and honestly you want that. Imagine driving your performance car and ur pins were loose enough to rattle out. I guess It could be a company thing I wouldn’t know.

​@@anthonygorham5299 yeah if the pins rattle out, the conditions your car is in isn't the problem...

@@anthonygorham5299 if the clips are in they would never rattle out. Even on older Toyotas. They wouldn’t rattle out if the clip is in. I’d be more upset that after 15k on a high end car that my pad pins are stuck.

@@dredennis113 dang crazy, must be just Chrysler, always need a punch and hammer, when installing I can get most of the way but still needs tapped. Nice hearing from you 👍

@@anthonygorham5299 are you talking about the hellcat? If so I know exactly what you mean. Same as the Mustang. Even with the light weight 4 piston calipers. But they also fit tight on a new caliper. Might just be a Brembo design.

Leave the old pad in, use a prybar to push back both pistons using the old pad as a piston pusher, source I work at brakes 4 less and do brakes all day

@@austinsawyer8853 so you dent up the back of the rotors to save some time? Or you sent up the piston to save the rotors?

​@@frankdelucey2137 If you can dent the back of a rotor by pushing a piston back with a screwdriver,,,, that's just special. I've done it that way literally hundreds of times without issue. And who is just slapping new pads on old crappy rotors ? No professional tech is doing that.

@@Mike-qp8bv if you can push a piston in with a screwdriver and not dent the rotors that’s very special. I will just continue to take apart the breaks the correct way instead of shoving vehicles in and out of a shop to squeeze out as much $$ out of people during a day as possible.

@@frankdelucey2137 Pushing the pistons back with a couple of screwdrivers is a perfectly acceptable practice. You will not hurt a single thing using this method. When you work as a professional technician you look for the easiest and fastest way to complete any task. And at the same time not damage any part of a customers car. If your a backyard mechanic do whatever you feel is necessary to do a job. Keep in mind that if you (the DIY guy, and I'm not speaking of you personally) do a brake repair, or on any other safety related system. If it fails to work correctly and causes an accident. That's just a situation I would never want to be in. I am a professionaly trained automotive technician. With more than 30 years in the business. Any safety related components have to be replaced or repaired to MOT standards. If you are just doing a pad slap, first off your a shitty mechanic. How else are you gonna push the pistons back without removing the caliper ? You literally can retract the pistons without any damage to any other part. Why do work that's not necessary ?

My '75 Vette has them.... PN is a channel for non-wrench ppl.

1985 was the same. These calipers work great on a Nissan S30, too.

Actually they do as long as you don't live anywhere they use salt on the road (New England States) or close enough to the coast the salt spray hits it... LMAO Otherwise you'll find like 50 new swear words that you can come up with while doing it...🤣🤣🤣🤣😅😅😅

Absolutely every manufacturer of vehicles and or parts are designed only to function in States like California. But there is no rust or major grime, dirt roads. Take a look at New York by a brand new truck in about 6 years it's completely rotten underneath. When I worked for Volvo they had a awesome undercoating now that's dedication. Also if you want to know why labor is so high in areas that are not like California is because manufacturers won't undercoat new vehicles

They do in sunny, salt-free Southern California!

No issues removing them on my 3rd gen 4Runner. Come right out after you remove the pins.

I just did brakes on one of my Mercedes with a similar style caliper. Let's just say it was VERY crusty and that pin took a lot of heat, hammering, twisting and grinding to get out.

Your right I remember doing this on most cars in the 1970s

That’s because they don’t like making things easy so it costs more

i was gonna say this, i like it so much more

VW Beetle aswell.

Fuel injection

Is it ok if I wait here with you ? I have replaced countless dozens of brakes on Toyota's. Did we miss the elusive "trick" ?

​@@Mike-qp8bv it's Toyotas trick compared to other brands, not a trick for Toyotas

Were you trying to hammer the pins out the wrong way? And not sure why you need to remove the caliper, just use a screwdriver against the old pad and on the very outer edge of the disc and push the pad/pistons in (won't damage the disc either). They should go In very easily unless the pistons are stuck. Then replace one pad and repeat the process with the other pad.

@@johno9507 No there's really clear way the pins should come out. But 8 year in Finland thends to make things rust. Taking calipers off and using a proper tool just makes sence, pistons are usually somewhat worn and rusty so they don't allways just go inn. When you press one piston inn, the other tends to come out, once it get's out it can easily get even more stuck or in worst case pop out. Don't know about cars in USA or other parts of the world but here everything is old, dirty and rusty.

@@ristorasanen2111 I do understand, I have Brembo 4 piston calipers on my Volvo S60R, thankfully here in Australia rust isn't much of a issue. 🇦🇺

I’ve had luck spraying them with penetrant, and greasing them up, then working them back and forth with knipex’s.

@@ristorasanen2111 you don't know what you're talking about

Yep, that’s gonna cause some issues.

Yeah but it beats having to cram them in from the front. My 91 Camaro was a pain to deal with, holding the caliper and pads in place on the rotor in order to tie it all in. That’s after a dual piston up grade that allows the use of stock size rotors and off the shelf pads.

@@rexmedina4561 ive never owned a camaro keep those beauties on the road,

@@Ozzy920 I used to think they were good looking but they’ve now kept the same front end for like 10 years and it’s just ugly to me now. Except the performance models, those front ends look absolutely sick

​@@Ozzy920When replacing the brake pads on a Toyota to depress the piston you only need 3 things... 2 small prybars and some tape! Put a piece of tape on the side of the prybars that will be against the rotor to prevent marring it and keep steady pressure until the piston is recessed into the caliper. NOTE: ALWAYS open the brake fluid reservoir when depressing brake pistons to avoid any possible damage to the seal in the reservoir cap from the pressure build-up due to the fluid return.

I also work at toyota, I'm in quebec... 4 runners, tacoma and tundra are always stuck or rusted as hell!

These youtube princesses do such a good job at showing the real-world

Customer states brake noise

Exactly what I'm saying. Not a trick just the right way to do it

The trick was getting us to watch the video

The trick is he tricked you into watching his bogus video.lol

Beat me to it 🤣...definitely calling BS on this. Have to remove the caliper to push in the pistons

You just use 2 flat head screw drivers and pry on pads and pistons retract easily… no special tools required 😉

A flat head... you just lever it.

​@@omarw9206 use a flat head..

@@omarw9206 Toyota makes stuff easy no b.s. 😂

Only need do that if you take off caliber and let out the piston. There is easy over quarter inch gap both sides of pad to compensate for heat expansion if you take them off cool they will slide right out.

@@1BigDaDo no you need to do that when going from worn pads to new pads, since the new pads are thicker the pistons are still pushed out for the old ones, is why he’s asking

@@ChevyAndrew1 no mate. Thinner brake pads means you have to press the brake in deeper to get the same result. Meaning the pistons stay in the same place wether they are worn or not

@@1BigDaDo where are you from, things are different there I guess.

Anything but fast. Great concept but not good for real world. Anytime I get this design in my shop, I know it will be a longer job. It’s a fight every step of the way with rust, old brake grease and brake dust. They are never this nice in the Midwest

Who else? This is new to me.

​@@steefan2248 most heavy duty trucks have them. Almost every new performance car has brembos that you can service this this

@@steefan2248 gmc and Chevy 1/2 tons 19-22.

Only if you live in the salt belt.

I have lived in the salt belt and now the southern part of the US. You NEED to lube a brake job to make it right. I have not had a comeback in over 20 years using lube..

How did it go?

If you’re aware of this top secret “trick” it always goes well. 🪄

That doesn't sound right. What did you do?

See video?

@@haunter4708 you wouldn't change pads without AT LEAST re surfacing the rotors, if not replacing them completely. In order to do either you need to remove the caliper... unless you have a mobile lathe which most shops don't

It's 100% up to the veh owner on if the rotors get serviced or not. If there's no vibration or anything when braking, a lot of owners won't touch the rotors to save $. I'm not saying that's the right way to do it, I'm just stating facts.

With high carbon rotors that won't wear fast and hold up to the heat without warping is a good candidate with heat faded brake pads that lost their stopping power. A simple pad slap would suffice. This brake combo he used is not good. You can tell by casting on the cooling fins.

One side at a time, flat blade screwdriver press on the old pads towards the Pistons . at least that's all I do it.

​@@schreadersautorepairllc.6202 That's the way to do it. You don't need any fancy tools. Just a couple of screwdrivers. If anyone says differently they are full of shit.

Just use leverage from a flat head screw driver. Why is this difficult to imagine? HMMWVs had them since 1983. It's not that new of a tech

@@kimber3865 try that on something if not shiny. We're not talking about them City fella driving around maybe getting it wet and crime because it got wet before he got home to the carport at the apartment or something. I'm talking about people actually go out and use these things get the CRUD in there. He can use on some vehicles they disk as well. Try one that seized in there a little tight. I'm not talking these guys he's old part to shinier than the news parts that you take out the box

You are joking right ? Its hard to tell sometimes just by a typed message. This style of brake has been around forever. Literally since the advent of disc brakes. Basically 2 styles. Fixed, multi piston caliper. Or a floating single piston.