For the bathroom i got a trick for you. If you combine the motion sensor in the bathroom with a door sensor you can check if someone is in the room. If motion is detected inside the room an the door is closed you know there is someone in the room. That can also be Used for other rooms. Motion only has to be detected once in a room when the door is closed.

For LED strips, I like the 12V WS2815 type with 60 leds/m controlled with an ESP32 flashed with WLED. Pros: Cheap, bright even over a long length, individually addressable (each light can be controlled independently for amazing effects), and fully controllable with Home Assistant. Cons: Requires some wiring and ESP32 flashing knowledge (but not much) and they drain some energy even while off. Also Muzata makes some amazing LED covers that diffuse the light so well as to make them nearly spotless in direct viewing. Basically lightsabers. Thanks for your content!

Overall a great video. The changes I would make is to turn the light strips red at night to keep you night vision and way too many batteries to change after a year,

To stop my office lights turning off when I'm sitting still, I made a chair sensor using a cheap pressure sensor strip and a Zigbee contact sensor. There are few tutorials online on how to do this. My light automation has a condition to not turn the lights off if the chair is occupied, and it's been flawless so far. I had looked at a mmWave motion sensor instead, but the chair sensor worked out cheeper and easier to set up as it doesn't need wired power, and the parts were also readily available.

It's not something you really *missed*, but it's something that I have to account for in almost all my automations. Pets (and/or robot vacuums). If I had a dollar for every time a cat or a dog set off a motion detector, I'd have, well, a lot of dollars. So, I have to use placement wisely, and also use some Third Reality motion sensors because if you turn them upside down, they don't see triggers on the floor. I've also had to use door contact sensors (for the bathroom, as an example) in addition to a doorway motion sensor. If the door is closed, lights and fan on. If the door is open, lights and fan off. Though Switchbot has a door contact sensor that also has a motion sensor, so I probably should have used that. Plus, we have a cat that is obsessed with light strips. I guess he can hear something in the light strips, because he's made it his mission in life to find them and rip them down. It's always the edge cases that get you.

"If you look directly at an LED strip, you can clearly see the individual lights and it looks really fugly." I'm not sure which is funnier - that quote, or the fact that KZfaq captioning actually captured that correctly. 😄 Great videos Alan! Thanks.

Thanks for informative video! One suggestion though: Imho in the automation it's better to have a separate trigger for turning off the lights. Your trigger would then be "No motion detected for 30s". This will have the automation not staying in running state while still waiting for the motion sensor to go inactive for 30s. 😊

Using a smart plug that measures power usage works really well for keeping the lights on whilst sitting still at a computer or watching TV. Set a condition that if the computer monitor or TV are switched on, don't turn off the lights! Thanks for the video, very thorough.

For keeping motion live while sat at my desk, and to prevent my office plunging me into darkness, I find a pair of motion sensors works well. One in the corner of the room for general motion, and then one mounted under the desk. The one under the desk, because it's so close to my legs, picks up the slightest motion, so even when I'm sat still and the main room sensor doesn't pick me up, the one under the desk does.

Great video, as always! From a different perspective: I do everything in Node-red, and use HA just as a hardware abstraction layer and state/timer vehicle. 1. Sonoff hardware does indeed send a 'no motion' signal after ~1 min of no-motion, and then it's ready to send a 'motion' signal again immediately. It's still nowhere near as good as a radar in detecting occupancy, but for places like kitchen where you're moving around and not sitting still, it's okay. 2. Aqara hardware doesn't send a 'no motion' signal, it's generated by the software. So even if you're moving around, Aqara will still 'report' no-motion after a software-defined timeout. That's why I (historically) ignore 'no motion' signals and monitor occupancy in software (or via a radar). 3. I discovered that if I clean the surface with methanol just prior to attaching my LED strips, it holds - rock-solid. Even on the back of my TV, which gets warm :) 4. Radars allow you to be really aggressive when turning the lights off, I love that! 5. In my experience, light meters inside Aqara motion sensors suck. 6. If you have drop-ceilings, it's very easy to put a 5V adatopr and a radar there.

For the bathroom I also have an aqara door/window sensor, so when the door closes and motion is detected, the light doesn't turn off until the door opens again, and the motion goes to "cleared". My full bath doesn't have smart lights yet, but I will have to augment this with a humidity sensor as well, as we generally leave the door open for ventilation (old house, no vent fan) and to allow the cats access to their litter. For all motion detected lighting, I create two input booleans for each automated light/group - "Do not disturb" and "Leave lights on" that will disable the "on" automation or disable the "off" automation, respectively. I also have two input number helpers that allow users to define their own low-light threshold for turning on lights, and brightness threshold for turning them off, as I've noticed my wife and I have... differing opinions as to when lights should be on.

Perfect timing. Walking along your journey to adapt them to my home.

Really enjoying this series!

Great job Alan. Great overview of strategies and ideas for lighting, along with a perfect level of detail to walk someone less experienced with Home Assistant to do it themselves, without so much focus on the technical that it might turn off someone who is not using Home Assistant. One of my favorite videos you have produced to date!! Looking forward to more of these.

I more and more realize that you are developing exactly what I'm looking for. Great videos Alan! they are as good as the ones from Lewis.

Great Explanation. I create a boolean helper for each zone. This boolean is used instead of the motion trigger. The boolean can be controlled based on additional requirements (like the TV playing something). This way I can make sure the lights stay on if the TV is playing but I'm sat still.

Thank you for all the information. I am definingly going to do these automations. I love your sense of humor.

I'm surprised no one uses door sensors together with motion sensors. Bathroom is the most obvious application but other rooms can work too depend on the layout. If you closed the door and then motion is detected inside the bathroom, you do not turn the light off at least till the moment the door is opened, and then you go back to motion sensor. Assuming you have only one door and you close the door when taking a dump. I have this set up in my home for a while and it works like a charm, never have to wave my hands sitting on the toilet or touch switches.

12:20 - If you don't have a system that detects luminosity you can create a sensor for the sun elevation and set it to activate only when the sun is below is a certain value. This comes in handy, for me anyway, as some rooms with this might get too dark 90 minutes before sunset. You can also create a luminosity sensor that does a reasonable job based on time of day and weather for your lighting automations (again, only necessary if you don't have the Aqara model with the luminosity sensor built in, which will be far more accurate). For folks that are new to Home Assistant, the values for the sun elevation can be determined through the "History" button (and possibly plugging in a few other sensors to compare time of day with states). Good video 👍

I have used the same tricks, putting the motion sensor under the bedside table, etc. and you covered those nicely. I also use the aqara FP1 sesnors for small motion changes in the areas where me and my wife don't move a lot, those work great. Also found a cheaper version of these that now works well with the new version of HA and that's a Microwave Radar Sensor Module LD2410 , you can get them for around 6 dollars US and they work great. I've used wled and a D1 mini for my LED strips everywhere, behind TV, under the bed, under the kitchen cabinets, under the bathroom vanity, well you get the idea.

I found using timers created as a helper work heaps better for turning off the lights than relying on the no motion of the sensors.I have been caught so many times standing in the dark and these timers have solved my lights turning off while im in the presence of a motion sensor.. Great vid this with good tips and great explanations of creating the HA routines.

Hi, another great video with lots of good tips.This subject is the basis we all need and use and I must admit that I learned some new things, which improved my current motion sensor automations. Thanks and keep up the good work 👍

Your videos are very thorough, good work!

Hi Alan, great series of vids keep up the great work. I also have leds coming on the landing to guide me to bathroom of a night, going to build a floating bed with leds, and love the bath one you've done going to copy that, looks amazing. One thing I think you could be interested in is the led colour can affect your sleep. White light can wake you up, take you out of sleep mode, and affects your night vision. By making light red, you can see with your natural night vision, plus it doesn't interrupt your sleep rhythm so you will go back to sleep quicker and deeper. I have mine set to red after 10pm until 7am rest of day is white.

Blu tack - nice idea! Thanks

Bathroom lights also work well with a temp/humidity sensor. So the lights don't go off until while showering. I also use this for controlling the bathroom extractor fans. Really enjoying the house project of yours so far. Keep up the good work 💪🏻

I was using single on and off automations, the wait command is great and has now halved my automated lights list. I have a seperate Aqara motion sensor in a window facing east and it is ideal to monitor for a certain light level before running any automations. I have reused my old PIR alarm sensors by use of Konnected and then added additional sonoff or aqara sensors. I have found the addition of a sonoff sensor in front of my computer is enough to keep my lights on. Also, it is worth turning lights off gradually so you have chance to move again!

Great video. Thanks.

Wonderful informative video. I don't think I have ever seen anyone install a LED defused cover like that. We just hold them on top and lightly tap it in.

Bathroom's can be tricky but if you pair a motion sensor with a door sensor and a smart switch that controls the exhaust fan, you can add conditions to not turn off the lights if the door is closed or if the exhaust fan is running. Works great for me

Great video, thank you. I've moved to a new place and am starting from scratch, so the automation examples with the wait for trigger, choose, etc are great for me to work from. I was using all sorts of conditions and multiple sensors and automations to achieve the same thing as a single automation in your example

For WLED I can highly recommend the controllers by Athom. I have both versions of the individually addressable strip controllers - the standard one and the sound activated one. They are very well priced and simple to use. Cheers 😊

I do find the setting up of Automations rather more difficult in HASS than they are in HE so this video was very helpful. It looks as if there are a lot of options in HASS though automation wise and I am sure I will get used to it in time. I have a motion sensor under my office desk that senses small movements. Unless I nod off in the chair, that often happens after dinner, my office lights stay on. I have a 15 minute inactivity interval set on that for switching lights off, it works a treat.

Great video with some good advice. Thanks!

Hi, I really found this video useful, especially the part for grouping motion sensors: I had a rather complex automation in a room with two motion sensors, but with a group it became a real simple automation. Despite the 'shitty remark' you've got a new subscriber :)

This is such a terrific video... thank you! I'm a little embarrassed that I didn't know the Aqara motion sensors I already owned had the illuminance entity. This is a game changer for me as I was previously using the sunset/sunrise condition, but now with your tip my lights also come on during cloudy days. Your tip on how to easily automate one light with using multiple motion sensors is also super-helpful. Slowly but surely, my wife is seeing the benefit of the whole home automation thing, thanks in large part to your helpful tips. I'm grateful to have found you and your videos!

Grouping snesors into group was a nice information! thanks! Also sun bellow horizont..i only saw sunset and sunrise..never seen it have other options too :)

Alan, have you tried using Reusable Nano Double Sided Adhesive Tape or Pads to mount your smartdevices? I have used Scotch Restickable Tabs and find these can be easily removed without residue marks (unlike Blu-tac), washed and reused, which for battery powered devices is useful.

I've been using HA for one week and I've done three separate motion light automations for my hallway with different time conditions for day/evening/night. This made me think I could just have one automation with three Choose Actions with different time zones instead. Thanks for the tip!

Very usefull information. Regarding motion sensors, I switched to presence detection sensors for rooms where this is necessary, like office or toilet. Motion detection for areas where you only pass, like hallways.

Thank you man !

6:00 insert Paul Hibbert "IT JUST WOOOOOORKS" clip

about the bathroom, I added a doorsensor to the bathroom door. And on HA I made a "wasp sensor". Now when the door is closed and the motion sensor detects motion the wasp sensor is turned on untill the door is opend again. No moore lights turning off when doing your business.

What I've learned from DIYing different custom sensors is that the temperature sensors cannot be combined with nearly anything. If the are, they pick up heat from the ICs in around and you get +"something random" to their readings.

This is super helpful thanks Alan, I'm currently planning some custom bathroom cabinets and was going to add LED strip to them. Would love to make these automated on a sensor so that if somebody goes. to the loo during the night they're a dimmed version. would you recommend the Phillips LED light strip for this and would I also need a motion sensor to setup the scenario? I would love to hide the motion sensor if possible.

Thanks for the video. I’m going to make a few changes to my setup to make it a little more like yours. Enjoy your poo!

Pure genius! I have aquara pir sensors in my living room and kitchen (I've got a everything Presence One ready to go but no case yet). I've been wanting to add an led strip under my handrail on the stairs for a while and never thought of "sticking" one on the ceiling... GENIUS! Ordered the sonoff sensor today and will "stick it up" tomorrow (LEDs are already done). Thanks for the idea. 👍 I've also set my bedroom up with led strip but on a timer in HA. I work rotating shifts and find setting the leds to a dull red colour means it doesn't disturb Mrs Wife (Bonus points) while I have enough light to get changed by. We also we have the same LEDs working with an aqura push button (once for the bedside light, twice for the other half's, and push and hold toggles the led strip (wife's does EXACTLY the same so we can turn on/off each others bedside light (very useful)). Similar in the kitchen where the aqura pir will change the colour and brightness depending on time (9pm - 6am the LEDs are orange and 6am - 9pm their white). We find the white light in the morning too much ,🤣🤣 Sometimes it's the simplest things...

I've had Bluetack and similar take the paint off the wall if it has been in place for several months, but I understand why you'd do it. It is a little better than double sided tape. With LED Strips, unless I specifically need/want colour, I will get strips that are warm white/cool white only. I tend to build my own using ESPHome as the controller and the BTF Lighting strips are really good. For colour, again I prefer not using Hue as I prefer to use addressable LED's. I find the double sided tape on BTF lighting strips to be amazingly good. I have LED strips in the kitchen that have been held up for over 5 years now with just the original adhesive strip. On DIY strips, WLED is also really good. mmWave sensors are really great for the areas, like living rooms, where you may be too still for normal PIR's, but I do still use PIR's for the initial turn on as mmWave sensors are a bit slow. I thought the Aqara FP1 was also a corded device, requiring a power supply? Not sure why you pointed that out with the Everything Presence 1 and not for the Aqara offering.

I currently have 2 motion sensors in my office. One under my desk and one on my desk. I've combined them in Home-Assistant as a group. If my PC in my office is on, the interval is 15 minutes, and if my PC is off, the interval is 20 seconds. This way, while I'm sitting still for a couple of minutes behind my desk, the lights don't turn off.

Hi, great video. Btw lux is how intensely a given surface is illuminated by the light source (for those wondering)

for the roller shades i use zemismart roller shades motors and for horizontal blinds i use sunsa wands

Great Video! As mmWave radar i really do recommend the Tyua ZY-M100-S: ZigBee based, wall-mounted version and ZY-M100-L: ZigBee based, ceiling-mounted version. Quick detect (no need for PIR) and has also light detection. Super quick installation into HA Zigbee2mqtt. Have both for a few weeks and works just fine so far.

Hi, You can also configure your lights with condition, about the state of your/partner's phone, if is charging and you wake uk first the light won't be on, or with bed presure sensor, if someone still sleeping after x time even after sunrise, light won't turn on 100% brightness :)

Ive got two battery passive lights from lidl that are the best smart home products ive ever bought. Theyre instantaneous, not too bright and portable.

Thanks for this video. I have something similar for my home but I did find the sonoff not reliable at all with z2m and eventually replaced with Aqara ( much better ). Have you had this issue any suggestion. Otherwise I’ll keep them in the drawer 😂

I've been playing around with the LD2410B, incredible value for an actual presence sensor.

Yujiled sells some very high CRI rgbw strips in 12v and 24v that go great with a Shelly rgbw2 controller. Initial configuration of shelly is occasionally annoying in my experience, and I recommend a separate vlan, but those are the only drawback. They are rock solid in homeassistant once installed and configured. If you want the ultimate colour effects you can pair an rgb strip next to one of yujileds violet strips for eye piercingly deep purples. Since the shelly can only control 4 channels you’re giving up high CRI white, but for effects nothing else comes anywhere close.

Thanks for this, i always wanted to know what the wait for trigger did

It can definitely be fun to fiddle and logic it all up, but If I were to argue something. You don't need to complicate things more than needed. -A dumb lightstrip with built in sensor under the bed would do the job for most people. -Instead of fine tuning motion and time, just increase the on time when motion is detected. I find it intriguing the urge to turn lights off as fast, even at work(I make electrical plans). Maybe some forget how little power LEDs use?

Hey there Home automation guy. thanks for the video and advice, but here is what I found in my situation. I'm net to home automation... I have a HA setup with Zigbee usb dongle... I have some Motion sensors and 3gang light switched I bought of AliExpress, I found following your guide caused the motion sensors to activate the lights and it goes off after the set time yes, but the problem is, probably to do with the cool down period or something on the motion sensors I guess, the sensors will not activate the lights again unless there was NO MOTION detected for that period set, so if you keep moving around in the room longer than the set "State" wait period, then the light goes off... but since the motion detectors keep seeing motion, the lights stay off.. .so only when NO MOTION was detected for a longer period, then only of I walk in again, the lights will go on again... my workaround for this was in stead of using the "State" function and the "Call on service" function like you did, I did a "If then" function, so I set up a Trigger for device "Light 1 Motion sensor start detecting motion" and gave it an "action" on "Device" light on to turn on when "Triggered by" "Motion sensor start detecting motion", with a "Condition" that the light is off. then I added another trigger for "Stop detecting motion" on motion sensor for 30sec, with "Action" to turn the light off. and this seems to work much better as the lights now stay on when there is motion. I think its to do with the different manufactures on the motions sensors maybe... as I did everything like you did... but that did not work of my devices in my situation. I would like to hear your input on this. also I would like to know if and how one can adjust the cool down period on the sensors.... or is it only certain manufacturer products that can be adjusted as I don't see the function anywhere.

Vibration sensor under desk to sense if sitting at computer and one on side of bath. Power monitoring to know if shower is turned on. Things get a little more difficult with Great Danes

So many bulbs remember the last state they were in when power removed / restored ? Seems it’s not a standard question option in features list 😮

I use those sticky magnetic phone holders to try out the sensor, i think ill try the blu tac next

You don't even need smart light strips if you aren't looking to change intensity/color - any cheap LED strip (or rope lights) can be plugged in to a Zigbee smart plug

you the man

build a load cell bed weight sensor so only the side of the bed where the person getting up lights up based on bed weight. I also use mine to control the ceiling fan and bedside lamps

I use a Phillips outdoor motion sensor for lux readings for automations in the house .. usually 1000 lux outside for lights .. 500 lux for my landscape lights

From the I have learnt that you are using the „Wait for trigger” to turn off the lights, while I am using the „Choose” option and I define both triggers at the start.

I haven't got any mm wave sensors working yet (I do have a bluetooth one that isn't playing) but will sort that soon, besides that this is exactly my learnings too, I set up my automations the same way with 1 slight difference, just to keep things tidy I will run all of the automations for i.e. "kitchen lights" in 1 automation, with all of the "sub" automations run in parallel. And have also started using timer helpers as these are quite versatile and can be used in other automations, and have different time values written to them in different scenarios, and are re-start proof. I also have a mixture of 433 rf sensors (esphome rf bridge) and aqara zigbee (didn't have much luck with the sonoff ones) as I had these from early on before the zigbee dongles, and the range is awesome. We haven't touched a switch in years Good video, keep em coming

Hey I didn't pay attention to the final part of the video where you mentioned the human presence aqara sensor. In my other comment I linked an article for the Tuya version which actually works much better than the aqara version, at more than half the price! I tested it today and it works really well, and there's no need to actually group it with a motion sensor! The article does a comparison between the tuya version and the aqara one and found the tuya to be the absolute winner! I hope you could test it and do a video about it.

Hi Alan I am new to this whole world of automation. I am looking to setup motion sensor lights for my kitchen, bathroom and hallway . With the light bulb, If It can be the normal LED light bulb ? Or it has to be smart light bulb ? How does the pairing works between the motion sensor and the light bulb ? Sorry if this sounds a stupid question to you Thanks in advance

very cool i have many qustion i have smart switch that turn on the lights when i set timers , can i use a smart motion sensor to set it to turn on the lights when i walk into a barth room or kitchen please give the best guild

One thing important i always add is to stop the automation if any user input is received. If the dim light automatically turn on, and i change anything or turn any other light on, that mean i don't want it to turn off.

I do same things, but add the chose option depending on the lux instead of the time, you know in case there’s an eclipse lol, but seriously, overcast days are less light so it is nice once it’s all tuned in, but also I disable the turn off with a door switch, and also make some things dependent on the humidity since that’s built in to the sensor too

My go to led strip now is 60led pm sk6812nw addressable tape and used with d1mini/wled. Very bright but obviously pixels can be programmed. Dims very low as well. Bit over kill if you want just white though. 5m+d1mini 5v psu still cheaper than 2m hue with smooth looking strip as pixels are closer.

Question: does the P1 still have motion and occupancy? I thought I heard the removed the occupancy. Likewise, how are you plugging in your led strips under the bathtubs. Did you run more electrical?

I'm still looking for LED strips with CRI of 90 or above and tunable white. I found one, but it cost 200€ just for a 5m stripe without power supply or controller. I will replace all lights with tunable white with CRI90 because I find with CRI80 a room often looks pale or ugly, even with high price lights like Philips Hue

Thank you for another great video! I was just wondering: are you using the Hue Bridge? Or do you connect them directly to your HA environment? I currently have the bridge, but I'm considering moving them straight to my HA appliance so that I can get rid off the bridge and further decrease my power consumption. Any thoughts?

Wondering what the simplest way to install a led strip to the underside of a wooden staircase hand rail. I want to hide the wiring as much as possible so I'd want to drill a small hole right where the railing is attached to the wall. Is there a recommended strip that has a low profile and/or flexible connection so that it could be easily installed flush with the bottom of the railing with minimal chisel work/modification to railing to make it clean? I'd probably be mounting the light strip in a flat channel so you couldn't directly touch it.

I have the original version of the Aqara motion sensors, and I'm not sure what version of HA it was changed/added but you can now adjust the motion detection duration for the original Aqara sensors within HA.

Thanks, Alan, for another informative video. I have a couple of similar automations running. With my landing, bathroom and bed LED strips, they switch to red between 10pm and 6am. This lets me see where I am going without bringing me fully awake. It helps preserve my night vision, lessens the interruption on my sleep pattern and is less likely to wake up my partner. Helps you get to sleep quicker too. Try it, you won't go back to white.

I use nest protect’s too 😊

do the blankets trigger the motion sensor? (me and my GF both have our own and often 1/3 of it falls next to the bed :p ) Challenge Idee... Change all automations to a different hub... like Hubitat Elevations, Homey,... and compare the hubs... Easy to use, easy to pair, easy to learn, easy to change automatisation... Greetings from Belgium

I use light level to decide if my motion controlled lights should turn on irrelevant of the time of day. By using a delay time for the "off" command I have it all done in a single automation. With this I added a condition that the automation will still act of the lights are already on so that the delay for off is restarted. This way the lights won't turn off if we are in and out of the area a lot despite the lights creating a light level value that would normally prevent the lights turning on. I works perfectly. For areas of minimal motion I too use the mmWave devices, but a different one to you.

Hi Alan, This 2 minute detection interval periode you talk about. Is there any way to adjust this in home assistant for any motion sensor? My situation is i have 2 old P hue motion sensors. One has a cooldown of about a minute while the other (exactly the same but in a different room) retriggers instantly. I can't find out why, please help.

Seeing the Home Automation Guy taking a shit - priceless!

Great video! My question is, with all those motion sensors, what automations do you have set up to detect if they go offline or if their battery needs to be replaced?

I've been doing the bed lights for 5 years now. both sides of bed. Bathroom certain hours 9p to dawn

Loved this until I saw under the bed and my OCD went off the charts. 😂 Love the video though, keep up the great work. 😊

Have you tried the hue motion sensors? I think they look better and mine lasted 4 years on the default AAA batteries

Have you a preference for HA automations over Node -red for occupancy / presence automations? Will you be doing any Node-red videos?

So the sensors Lewis makes that you talked about at tbe end. I wonder if there is any thought to putting a wired rj45 port to accept poe. you need a wire for a plug anyway...

I've written a daemon that runs on my desktop machine that detects mouse and keyboard activity then sends it to HA or MQTT. This ensures my light does not go off when I'm working

Blutack, why have I never considered that! Wall saver!

For LED strips my go to is btf lightning strips with an esp8266 with wled flashed

thev only suggestin I have is....simplify. My stairs cotroller is a 24 channel from Aliexpress and does individual steps as well as 2 side strips .Does a whole lot of different effects and programmable for your needs. For under the bed I use 2 PIR motion relays from Amazon ,one under each side table ,connected in parallel with 2 diodes .Advantage ,no zigbee motion batteries to worry about. Each powered by a Sonoff S31 lite based on the sun sensor in HA : Sunset / Sunrise .I also use the Sonoff motion and they have proven flawless. I also integrated the alarm (Ennvisalink integration) so I can use the zone sensors and arm automatically. Also those sensors exist already so why duplicate with battery power ? I also use the Sonoff touch light switches (3 buttons) as they can be used as smart buttons for scene control (group of lights) . Presence detection is definitely the next step though I am debating if the FP1 way (basically radar) is the best .

Govee LED strips are great. Definitely lower cost than Philips Hue. Adjustable white temp is great. 10% to 1% test would likely fail though

Hi, hoping maybe you can help me with my setup that is not working for me. I am trying to setup an under bed light activated by the Aqara P1 motion sensor just as you have here, but with the Aqara M2 hub, and a Govee LED light strip and have added all devices in HA. I setup my automation exactly as you have here with trigger:state:P1 clear -> detected, condition:state:sun below horizon(it's currently 1:30am so definitely TRUE), and action:call service:turn on light. I can see that the motion sensor is detecting me as the aqara app pushes a notification to me also, and in HA I can run the automation manually and the light turns on, but when I walk by the motion sensor and get the push notification it does not turn on my light strip. I cannot for the life of me figure out what is not working properly here and wonder if you ran into anything similar with the motion sensor not pushing through HA to trigger the event?

you should use aqara fp2

I only use LED stripes that are powered by 12 or 24V drivers (I'm a learned electrician), and as those come is 5M versions, I always go for those. I then control them with a Shelly RGBW2 and connect them via wifi to HA. I have some Hue strips in the apartment (not our house), but that was because my girlfriend already had them.... I just think they're not worth the cost for what you get in comparisation to the flexibility that I have now by installing my preferred LED stripe, paired with my driver of choice. But granted, that's not for everyone and it's more work then the Hue ones, what is basically a plug and forget type of device, as where I need to think about power delivery, distance (from the driver to the strip), lenght of the LED Stripe, placement, profiles, etc. But again, it's worth the work, as the light is generally better and as said, more flexibility and more bang for your buck (I'm in AT, so it's actually EUR) Keep up the good videos! you're doing an awesome job!