Yes I am aware I am cranking incorrectly. I had to operate from the back not to block the camera. 😀🎥

I think when you get to corners, just mark them manually and continue on the straights, then you can come back with 2 prong and finish them off...

*Works perfectly for my use as a heated press **MyBest.Tools** Space between the ram jack and the base is a little tight. Make sure you set the ram jack arm so that it's in a position for you to get maximum leverage on whatever you're pressing. You may have to unbolt the front plate of the press and realign the ram in the teeth so that the arm is not at an awkward angle when fully cranked down.Other than aligning the ram in the teeth with the crank arm this .5 ton arbor press comes out of the box pretty much ready to use.*

Im making my goods in apartment. Sometimes, punching holes makes a lot of noise so i choose this press.

I think this would be great for someone in an apartment or wanting to work while their house is sleeping so it quite. I know I hate working night shift and coming home with energy, motivation and cant hammer away

My hands have started to hurt after using the mallet & chisel to punch leather, so I haven't done it in a while. I was really interested after running across this video and bought a cheaper version of this to try out. I definitely want to upgrade to the better version, but am really loving the ease of use that this style of punching allows. I use a single 1mm hole punch, not a chisel-tip, over a paper template, which makes a very nice stitching line for thicker thread. To speed the process, I found that by closing the space between the punch and the leather to 1/4 inch or less made it easy to quickly line up the hole, punch, align, punch, align, punch, align, punch, etc., at about the speed it takes to read. It's made leatherworking fun again! Thanks so much for sharing. Edit - someone asked where to find a 1mm hole punch - I found mine as part of a set on amazon. Good luck and have fun!

I love this thing. Ordered it and have been using it exclusively ever since. It’s fantastic when it’s bolted down

I've just started leatherworking, and am having real trouble getting straight lines on the reverse side of the leather. Add to that the noise I'm making in an upstairs flat......Might have to seriously consider getting one of these.....

I think the press has lots of advantages... consistent straight punched holes, quiet - no more banging and accuracy. I find that when hand punching the holes it only takes a very slight angle variation to get the back holes out of line. I personally wouldn't use the 2 prong punch in the press and would do those corners manually but if you do want to change then I'm sure using the chuck key isn't necessary and hand tight would be enough. The only other way to get consistent holes on both sides would be to use pricking pliers.

Swapping out the tools is definitely gonna be a PITA. I'm thinking maybe just use it for the straight runs and manually pop in the few holes for the corners. You could even cut a groove on both sides without having to worry about missing the groove on the inside.

This is also great for people with mobility problems, arthritis, carpal tunnel or RSS, rotator cuff issues, tennis elbow, etc.

I think another benefit, (besides the quietness) is that punching holes through really thick leather might come out straighter, I tend to get less vertical the thicker the leather is, I can also see the down side of have this extra machine that takes up space, and to be used effectively I think it's made to be screwed down to the table

you need to remove the ball off the handle, go to a hardware store and buy a 24'' long 1/2'' steel pipe insert the handle into the pipe and it will give you leverage . pick up a 2x6 board and a few bolts along with a 6'' clamp. screw the machine to the 2x6 and now you can use the clamp to secure it to the table with out putting holes in it.

Thank you for this video. I purchased an upgraded version of this same machine with heating elements, so I have an option to hot brand leather or do gold foil and have a chuck drill installed when working with pricking irons. I had issues with the machine being unstable and didn't have the luxury of destroying my desk by permanently securing it to it because my apartment is too small, but I secured it to a cheap meat-cutting wooden board with a greater surface that I simply put on the table when working with it. Now here comes another problem with this tool - it comes with a very low-quality drill chuck so I replaced it with a self-securing drill chuck. No other tools are needed and it's quicker to replace different tools. There is a third problem as well and that is - working with non-round tools like many pricking irons are. Drill chuck will simply not hold it properly, it will go sideways, and next to doing bad work you can also destroy your tools. I overcame this by buying an industrial rubber foot (the standard one for furniture is not strong enough for this) with installed M10 or M12 bolts. I simply put it in the drill chuck and manually hold the pricking iron with my left hand while pressing with my right hand. This is not an out-of-the-box solution but it is easy and cheap to upgrade it by yourself with just a little bit of effort and for just a little bit of money get a machine that really makes difference.

Thanks for this review haven't been crafting bec I know people will be at home all day. And walls are not too thick for the noise. I prefer traditional mallet but I want to find a way to continue with this craft without being annoying to neighbors. Thank you. This is helpful atleast after 9months since March... I get to craft again

I'm convinced. I need one. Ordering as soon as I'm done with this video.

Thanks I just bought one of these. It's gonna be a great help.

Thanks for showing us your thoughts on it. I was surprised that you didn't start from the center and work outwards, also that you didn't have it clamped to something. Since you do have it, I hope you find more good uses for it.

I am using a 1 ton arbor press that also takes all my tools. It came with hole and screw all preinstalled. The big pro is it goes through 3 layers of the thickest leather like nothing, and looks perfect. And - I live in a flat and have to keep the hammering to a minimum. The press also sets rivets, buttons, cuts out any shapes, punches all my holes, stamps my leather etc. It is my ONE tool.

I had just ordered one and it was sent back because the carrier damaged it in transit. Looks like I'll be reordering one, it looks really useful

I wouldn't swap to the 2 prong, that can be done manually

Good informative video. Thank you. I normally just use pricking irons. However, I can see the advantage of this machine. Most people will buy it knowing they have to change irons on corners, or just do them by hand and continue with the machine for the main body. Clamped down properly and standing in front of the machine using it correctly, I can definitely see advantages to using this. And of course the noise is another consideration. Professional leather workers probably wouldn't like it and doing lots of work they would use a sewing machine so punching holes wouldn't be required at all.

I use an $80 table top drill press when I need to work quietly. It does the same thing but can also be used to drill holes, Use as a drum sander or burnisher.

Im definitely getting one just for my round edge tools. Every time i go through multiple layers it moves and doesnt cut the round corner on the bottom layer. This should take care of that

While I'm a traditionalist when it comes to many things, I can see the value in a product like this under certain circumstances. I'm a night owl and my wife prefers to go to bed early. I'm limited in what I can do while she is sleeping, so something like this would come in handy during those times. Other than that, I like throwing a hammer down on chisels, so it's definitely not something I'd use exclusively. One other note, you can adjust the handle throw so you don't have as much arm motion.

Have you tried it for ready rivets and snaps? I have a cheapo harbor freight press that I drilled the shaft to hold tools (never thought of the drill chuck). Snaps and ready rivets are its prime use.. These require a nice even squish or you get a mess

Got the same unit , I moved the handle around , drilled a hole in the square arm that holds the chuck where there was just a short throw to the material and put a removable pin in for a stop ( at this time the same drill bit :) ) .

Good video.

How has your experience been with the main shaft? I bought a very similar tool (the only difference is the color, I think), but after some use the main shaft started to bend. It even came off once, even though I tightened the bolt. My feeling is that the metal is made of cheap grade. Otherwise, I found the the machine better at churning out straighter lines than my bare hands. Thx for the video mate

Where do you purchased the drill press bits for leather crafting since they have to fit chuck? I have looked and can't seem to find them? Please advise.

I don't use my press for small stuff, but punching along the sides of a guitar strap it's brilliant for stiching holes. Made oak "rails" on the plastic board that came with it as a kind of jig for consistent distance from the edge

Thanks so much for the review man, I just bought it too lol! I've got the same situation: roommates. And I find myself waiting to do leatherwork only when I'm alone. Any cons you've discovered while using it?

Good quality

I bought this to replace the arbor press. I love it. With the arbor press, I was searching for attachments, rolled steel - great for stamping. IMO, this is way more useful. Bought an electric branding iron for stamping and this does the rest.

Also could have 3 pre setup next to eachother with a 5 a 2 and a 1 or whatever combo.. Then no need to switch out anything and can just step over when needed

I think it would be more useful for thicker projects especially with multiple layers to insure that it goes perfectly straight up and down. For thinner projects where it isn't much of a problem to make your holes perpendicular, I think I'd stick to my maul. Great video, thanks.

I've used my press for almost everything including punching holes and it works great ! I also made a guide to punch without lines at 2 mm 4 mm 6 mm along with glue it comes out great but i do the long runs first then the corners so your not changing tools like you did and with the guide i only overlap 1 hole ! Whats the thickness of that leather , i'm looking for thin stuff like that ?

If anyone didn't already offer this, try only making dimples with your two-prong, by hand. Whenever you get to the straight part again, put it back under the press. Once all your straight stretches are done, you can switch to the two prong, one time, and do all the corners and difficult parts.

I am sure it would be easy to swap the chuck with a keyless chuck and save loosing or picking up the key every time....thanks for the video i am getting one.

you made the 2 prong look dramatic lol. but I never used one. im getting mines soon

hey I know this is an older video but how would you say the durability of the machine is after a lot of uses? like is the back post a thin hollow metal or solid?

loved it

What kind of leather and thickness is that? I like the look

A possible solution looking for a problem.... But innovation is cool. We all use a press for snaps and rivets. I saw a punching machine recently that move the leather forward like a sewing machine. I have used my heavy duty machine to punch holes before. It was really fast.

Attach the press to a sturdy board then clamp the board to the bench where needed. I could easily configure a step actuated system for that press (more permanently mounted) freeing up your hands.

How large is the punch plate you showed underneath? U think is strong enough to use with a clicker press for a die set?

but how if using pricking iron with flat handle instead of round handle, can it be hold on that tools?

I bought the Jvedo hand press machine and achieved the same function as same as the video. And at an impressive price.

Can you also use some of the cutting dies

Hello, how much did the Press Machine cost you and from where did you bought it?

This seems such a great tool which would enhance the appearance quality of the item, i have problem in punching when sometimes i don’t perfectly punch the wholes 100% vertically so after all this small tiny issue affects the end result, i would love to know your feedback after long time you spend it with that tool. Thank you in advance for your helpful content ❤

I guess it helps keep it straight I hit through multiple layers wonky at times

I have a small drill press about the same size, do you think I could use that instead of buying that?

Just started and I have downstairs neighbors. I don't want to hammer punch stitching holes any more so I don't bug them. This type of tool looks like a good alternative unless I just go straight to a diamond awl.

Wow, this is a terrific solution for apartment dwellers and thanks for the review. I wonder, will the chuck accept Sinabrok irons?

Do you know what size the drill chuck is by chance?

This could be ideal for longer straight runs and thicker leather.

I have a Tandy Craftool hand press (the pretty less expensive red one) which I got for Mother's Day last year, and I have been using it to punch holes ever since the awesome and knowledgable staff at Tandy pointed out that I could do so with the Diamond Chisel Press Die and the Craftool Diamond Hole chisel set, which I had already bought sometime earlier. It makes all the stitching holes that I need noiselessly and saves my shoulder. I have adapted the small circular cutting board that comes with the die set by taping small discs of leather on it to make punching the holes easier and to protect the tips. I have also used my hand press for stamping, setting rivets, and snaps with the dies from Tandy. They do cost more than generic dies, but they are top quality and I have a feeling that Tandy will stand behind their products if they should break. The main disadvantage of the Tandy hand press is that it does not work with other less expensive generic dies.

Clever little tool there. To speed it up a little, wax the pricking iron or what I do is use the thick steel ruler from my combo square laid parallel to the pricking iron to hold the work piece flat while removing the pricking iron, this helps a lot when working with really soft stuff like lamb skin. As far as speeding it up goes, think of it like a drill press, raise the work up closer to the pricking iron to shorten the travel of the lever. Also, just mount the thing to a piece of wood and clamp it to your work surface to eliminate the commitment of a permanent place for the tool. That thing is useless if not solidly mounted. Down a straight line you should be able to move faster than if you used a mallet. This should make up for the time taken to switch out the tools and as we agree it is much quieter than the mallet and a lot easier on your hands. Another benefit may be that the tool is always at 90 degrees more uniform and no time spent on lining up the angle. Just run the piece through like would be done on a sewing machine. Thanks for bringing this gadget to our attention, I see many potential uses for it.

You have a bolt on each side of the ram, they are a "Positive Stop". The handle should stop at parallel to the table for max. leverage. Move the head up or down on the post for depth of punch. A punch pad similar to tire rubber duct taped to the base plate. A guide bar of 1/8 thick by 1" wide Steel with adjustment slots at each end to set distance from punch to edge of work peace. Drill and tap 1/4 x 20 the base plate for the guide bar. A flat metal plate over the guide bar located very near the stitch chisel to hold down the leather when lifting the chisel. This too will be bolted down and shimmed to proper height for your work peace. Do as much as possible with out changing tools. This will also work for round punches but with a stripper plat with a hole. Think about the time spent lining up the punch, pick up the hammer, bash the punch, put down the hammer, pry the punch out of the leather, repeat. The press is very efficient way to work.

I wonder if I can use one of these to seat frets.

Can this be used for stamping letters?

A much cheaper alternative are hand punches/pliers that you can buy anywhere between 15 to 50 bucks. Much quicker and easier to use than a press, but the press can use any tool you put in the chuck.

I live in a flat (2nd floor) and use on of these to keep the hammering down...😊

as someone in a apartment this is game changing.

It would be great to have two and set one up for rivets and one for dura dots for speed production. A business could have several lined up with various tools.

If you are leatherworking out of an apartment...this method will keep your neighbors happy. If you are pre-planning your stich-holes in your patterns, you will not need to swap out irons as much.

Nice sailor jerry eagle 🙏🏽

I'm going to try this with my 1T arbor press and heavy duty magnet

Hello, Whats the maximum Stroke i can get out of this Press? (I need at least 2.5" )

Is the column a tube or solid bar?

Can you show link to buy?

First, you have clump the drill press that it doesn't move and with the double-sided tape fixed the acrylic plate over the metal one, then you need to adjust the height of the drill head that Pressing position is the most powerful. Does the drill chuck is big enough to hold the square head of the 8-10 teeth pricking Iron? The price is a little higher. such drill press costs less than 80$ in the hardware store

Looks like they pulled a switcheroo on the Amazon listing. Found a few items on AliExpress but shipping is around $70-something.

I 1-ton arbor press mounted on a higher surface (to see better when punching) has more torque.

A One Ton arbour press with keyless Drill Chuck fitted Ram, will be better, i think

I bought this same press and love it. I'm having an issue with my two prong hole punch getting stuck in the leather, and having to pull the leather down, off the prongs every time. Any suggestions?

Can it use to install eyelet?

get a tabletop drill press by wen... cheap and you also have a drill press when needed

if you use a sds drillmachine mount a sds drill head for quick change

You could just leave the six prong iron in the press and work the corners by hand, it would be a lot faster.

If you are worried about noise an awl is pretty quiet 😁

As an aside, you'd see comparable speeds to hand punching if you had grouped the number of holes to be punched to minimize tool changes. Mark the holes on the corners with the two prong iron, but use the six prong to make the majority of the holes before swapping over. As others had said, the hand press gives consistent results (and in thicker leather) for quietly punching a lot of holes, but is also useful for setting leather hardware and studs, cutting belt/strap points, wet-forming and stamping. When properly secured to a bench, of course. 😊

Hi, I'm seriously considering getting one. Can you tell me how big can the chuk open up. I have wuta pricking irons and they are 13 mm rectangular so I don't even know if the handle would fit in the chuck

It s usfel with diamant, but is it usfel with Hol punch Hollow driling tools ?

Quicker by hand for sure. Maybe faster if you lower the fork closer to the leather, then you don't have so far to travel.

You would only have to change once if you would mark your corners and come back to them .

I think one solution to changing out the tools would be to manually mark the corners using a 2 prong and then keep going with the 4-6 prong and only at the end switch the to the 2 prong and go over the markings

Where and how to purchase from the Caribbean Trinidad&Tobago

For something that small I would have never changed out the chuck the two-pronged chuck was more than enough once you get into rhythm be fast as hell.

Yeah, bolting or clamping the entire machine to your workbench is key.

Can it stamp aluminum?

I think the normal way it's easier and faster than this way

now i can do it with one hand paralyzed

Mark the two prong and do them at the end

What's that leather looks nice

To be honest i think it would be easier just chisel and hammer... because its then the hassle of changing tools every 5 minutes when you come to a corner.. to reduce holes, but as iv read the comments.. to stay positive it is good for apartments and those that don't want to keep wacking a hammer all-day its smooth hole punch x

What is the preferable distance for stiching line and leather edge?

These work great with a keyless chuck, bolted down and correctly adjusted closer to your material😎

Will this have enough force to stamp a brass logo?