I totally agree, it was extremely comfortable

It absolutely is. Also good to hear Ryan agrees, which speaks well to build quality and consistency since Makayla’s car was within the first 500 off the line in Chattanooga.

How does the RWD perform in snowy conditions?

Great suggestion!

Glad I'm not the only one who recognized it and good on him to not bring up the airbag light.

A minimum arrival charge makes sense, and I would even argue that 10% may be too low. 10% seems probably sufficient if you're pulling into the home charger at the very end of a trip, or if you're a Tesla pulling into a supercharger. But, trusting the CCS network with just 10% left in the battery feels asking for trouble. With the CCS network, on every charge, you need to leave with enough to make sure that, even if the next charger is down, you still have enough left in the tank to reach an alternative. In practice, 20% is usually safe if you're willing to allow a level 2 to qualify as the backup option. 10% may be ok in big cities, but is usually not safe out in the countryside. But, I do strongly disagree with 4). 80% is a completely arbitrary number. If leaving with less than that allows sufficient buffer at the next charger, you should not be prevented from doing this.

@ab-tf5fl I agree with you. The only reason I said to stay till 80% was most brands tout there 10 to 80% times and even a novice partner may have seen that information in passing. Like I said earlier my wife wanted me to charge to 100% in my Model 3 on our first road trip. I thought 80% departure time was a good compromise for the test.

I have the exact same car and getting ready to take my first 2 hr plus mostly highway trip and noticed the same thing.

If your do a lot of long road trips, the Tesla super charge experience is critical. If you only do an occasional long day trip, then I would suggest at least 300 mi of range so you can’t avoid needing to do ccs charging all together.

I'm thinking once either EA gets their newer chargers online, or NACS becomes more accessible, or CCS at the new SC stations, I wouldn't have to worry which vehicle I get. What's interesting is near my area around the Milwaukee area, Tesla owners are waiting for EA to get up and running near the SC station there because theirs is usually full and want an alternative.

If you have the window sticker it tells you the battery manufacturer. LG is the old version and SK ON is the new one with higher peak charging. Both batteries are used in Chattanooga. Great color choice on yours. I can’t decide between red or pure gray.

@@coreyschmidt734 I love my king's red metallic. It costs extra but it's really awesome. Not flat, not dull, and not too bright either. It stands out but it doesn't scream which is precisely what I wanted. I think the gray looks good too but given the choice it had to be the red for me.

286 miles vs 248 on near same size useable kwh pack is an impressive result for the tesla. That's about 18% more efficient vs vw. With much better charging speeds on the better network, higher perf, better tech and crash safety, plus more standard features to boot. 👍🏻😎

@@4literv6 All true. But the ID.4 is a far more comfortable car IMHO. The seats are incredibly comfortable in the high-trim models. That might start to change with the Tesla model 3 refresh, though. We'll just have to see.

​@4literv6 in my calculation it's 'only' about 15% more than what the MY averages what's plenty! And saw another Highway test in which the ID4 uses about 10% more than an ID3 what means that the much bigger MY even needs less energy than an ID3, what is a way smaller, lower and way less powerfull Compact Car. Also Bjørn Nyland did a range test which concludes that on Highway speed the GTX with Awd is averaging about the same as the Rear Wheel Version, so that wouldn't have made much difference, maybe none.

@@junkerzn7312 it's not my experience with an id.4, model y and mach e. But I am glad we as consumers have more options now. 👍🏻 Imo the base rwd TN built id.4 with tax credit is an excellent value for its price and feature set. Anything else though? And tesla is the value play, like when road tripping and charging times do matter, plus if overall tech, safety and features matter most to you. In my area a new awd sr my is 44k before any tax credits, additional incentives etc. Just 47k for a lr my in stock within 200 miles of me. 😎

@@4literv6 IDK, Tesla wants ppl to drive until the thing dies to get the EPA range lol. I don't care. The ID.4 doesn't look like a dorky frog and with a wide ass butt in the back, and the Y makes that look worse with it either looking like a hat or a roach. For me, since I owned the Mazda3 from 2004, the design looks even more dated since the same guy made both and hasn't really changed from it. We'll also have to see what the 2024 model brings too.

Cars are bad at averaging their own efficiency and tend to overstate it a little. The actual efficiency in this test was 3.22mi/kWh assuming 77kWh used. That’s a 5% overstatement of efficiency. That’s worse than I would expect from an EV because they have the data to be more precise. If we assume it rounded a raw 3.35mi/kWh up, then it would be a 4% overstatement. Also there could just be a little battery degradation on this car and that would also explain it.

It’s more likely you do that …… some people gladly volunteer.

Many channels do the same. How many have seen State of Charge Tom do an 80 mph range test in NJ where the highest posted speed is 65? 15 mph over qualifies for a hefty ticket and possibly an increase in insurance rate.

I know when the vehicle is new they usually have a window sticker or specs sheet called the Monroney sticker this label list the vehicle serial number and trim level options and other information but also the manufacturer of the battery pack but if the vehicle is used I think the only way is to call a VW parts department with the serial number and ask them what is the manufacturer of the battery pack.

Having a front motor still causes some losses in efficiency because of extra weight and potentially a little more friction in the front axles. ID.4 mitigates this pretty well compared to some other cars.

Yes, correct, its an asynchronous motor so it free-wheels when not needed. As others have said, there is still the extra weight of the motor and some gear friction. The three main trim items effecting ID.4 range are: (1) Battery size, (2) Tires, and (3) 1-v-2 motors.

I should amend that. "Traction mode" is the always-AWD mode that uses both motors whether the car thinks they are both needed or not. That mode only operates under roughly 25mph. Regardless of the mode however, the car will still use both motors at any speed when it feels it needs to. For traction or if you stomp the accelerator, for example.

Stay tuned!

I got the red and love it but man that grey is a beauty.

Stay tuned!

I believe the SK has less drop further on.

I think you are right, the fronts on that vehicle are not standard. It looks like they might be 255's all around whereas out of the factory only the rears are 255 and the fronts are 235's.

One possibility is that someone incorrectly rotated the tires front-to-rear without recognizing the size difference.

B mode is for regen.

Both "B" mode and "D" mode have regen. "B" mode has stronger regen when you let off the pedal... "almost" one pedal driving but it won't come to a complete stop for you or do a sensor-based decel/stop. The mode won't really matter when in cruise control, but the eco/sport/etc selection does control how aggressive the cruise control adjusts (Eco is the smoothest). I personally prefer "D" mode myself. "D" mode on the ID.4 DOES have variable regen when you let off the pedal but will be close to coasting on the flats which is more efficient than active deceleration on the little ups and downs. Plus this way I control the brake light myself accel-v-brake pedal (the brake pedal also does regen and then blends in physical brakes). The interesting thing about "D" mode on the ID.4 is that if you are on a downslope, with your foot off the pedal, the car will regen to only accelerate very slowly. I tried this on a very steep almost 45-degree-sloped hill in our city and it actually went to nearly full regen. Pretty cool I think!

@@junkerzn7312 that’s actually a great explanation! Thank you so much

Not in the US, and last I checked they removed them from Canada bound ones.

No, its a PTC in most places. To be honest, this did annoy me slightly when I bought the car but after much use I've come to the conclusion that it virtually doesn't matter outside of a few edge cases in very cold weather. I think I kinda prefer the PTC, actually... it is one less thing that can break in terms of maintenance. It all comes down to whether it needs to heat the battery or not. Heating the battery can burn a lot of energy, but I only see the car do it when the battery temps are below 32F and it only appears to try to heat it up to around 32F. It doesn't try to warm the battery to 70F or anything like that in very cold weather. Cabin heating, it turns out, uses very little energy even in very cold weather. In 0F outside temps the most I saw it burn on the cabin steadily was around 1kW. A complete non-issue.

@@junkerzn7312 I think the reason why it doesn't matter is because heat pumps work well around the freezing mark. Below that and their only source of heat is from the car, not outside. I verified that looking at Kia's documentation on their heat pump. I'll still opt for one since I'm up north, but I like how fast the ptc can work. Course Kia doesn't give a battery heater without the heat pump option for the Niro, not sure about ev6

Thanks for your insight guys.

Some people prefer ride comfort, build quality, quietness and a more conventional car, so theres reasons to get the ID.4 over the Model y as well

@@nickbien I understand that, but the Model Y suspension has been improved. My new Model Y rides very close to my wife's Volvo XC60. And the earliest reviews on the new Model 3 Highland have the ride quality as excellent. Plus fit and finish is improving too. My Model Y is good there and the Model 3 Highland is vastly improved in luxury feel. ... I think luxury feel is nice, but it's not tremendously important to me...... But Hey, if you've had good luck with your VWs and your VW dealership, I'd say go with the ID4.

Some things might be: Having a glass shade that closes above at the push of a button. Car play and android auto. Blind spot lights on the mirrors so you don't have to look at center screen for blind spot warnings. An instrument screen for speed that only exists on high end Model S and X but exists on every ID.4. Radar for cruise control for less phantom braking, although maybe that's getting better with Tesla? Ground clearance. From what I read, Model Y has 6.6 inches while ID.4 has 8.2 inches.

In other words, for the price of an ID4, you can buy two Bolts.

@@ab-tf5fl And the Bolt is a good EV too, but the problem is than GM is losing a bucket load of money on them. That's why they nearly canceled them. Now they're saying they can make a next gen Bolt and can lower the cost by using the Ultium battery pack and cut battery costs by 40%. I doubt that's enough to make the Bolt profitable but I'm pulling for GM to do it.

En fait, 70 mph équivaut à 112,6 km/h.

@@mowcowbell vitesse usuelle en EU ? no... 120-130 km/h

Nope.

No, they still recommend 80% for the daily driver. Some people on Reddit charge to 90% daily and it’s fine.

You should only charge to 100% IF you are going to drive it immediately.

Most ppl don't, but I don't care, cause then they all have to switch lanes around me and I don't have to keep passing ppl doing 75 to 80.

No.

Tried to buy ID4 twice. They never delivered. Bought Tesla 3 instead - RWD for same price. Man, did we luck out. I sincerely thought generic charging would improve. LOL

@@terrymattingly6843 Congrats, you made the right choice. I have borrowed a friends M3 and I think it is a much better car than my id.4. His only complaint is that he took delivery before the big price cuts.

@@JamesWhited My wife now drives a Tesla Y and I drive an IONIQ5. Fine car. Use it local and regional trips. Electrify America just keeps getting worse, so I5 can’t be the road-tripper

It seems like a reasonably good test of highway driving that most drivers are likely drive with their own vehicles. It also does not claim to be a scientific test, but does provide a good baseline to see how different EV's perform under largely identical conditions.

If you want to really be pedantic, I wouldn't trust any EV, period. Tesla has lots of horror stories. Hyundai has now their charger unit issues. GM is just, well, GM being GM. Depending on who you ask, VW has solved the issues with software on the ID4. But first year owners are still screwed waiting for updates. I have a feeling if Musk were fired from Tesla, they'd focus more on being a more user friendly company instead of doing BS like removing stalks, buttons, the joke that is their "truck" and of course, lying about what they are capable of on range and FSD. Go ahead, try finding the official HP rating of the 3/Y, esp the performance one.

Well, because its a nice car, that's why. It has one of the best rides of all the EVs out there. The software is definitely not as advanced as Tesla's... it isn't even close, but on the other-hand, you have to ask yourself how much of that software you would actually use regularly. For most people it turns out to be "not much". Unless one regularly rips a car along mountain roads like Kyle, or feel the need to go faster than 100mph, the other technical differences just don't hit the radar screen. I gotta say, my days of going fast are long done. I took my old A6 up to governor limit a few times at 2am on highway 5 (California), and sometimes would rip up the grade on highway 80 at 100+ heading to Tahoe in the dead of night, but it wasn't often and I don't miss those days. For me, there really aren't any major software features that I'd want to use regularly. Basically just the map and Apple CarPlay and that is it. I don't need the car to know where the fast chargers are because I already know where they are. I like to drive so I don't even use VW's lane-keeping. At best I might use cruise-control on a long drive to maintain a radar distance. Even if I owned a Tesla I would NEVER trust my family's life to lane-keeping or FSD. Most of the time I prefer to control the accelerator pedal myself and its a breeze in "D" mode. I don't need auto-park. I don't change the radio channels... don't even use the radio, honestly. I use CarPlay for entertainment. What else is there that matters? Not a whole lot. Efficiency. That's it. So as long as that isn't a problem (and it isn't for me), it comes down to just comfort, map, and CarPlay.

@@junkerzn7312 tight turning radius is the most underapreciated feature that don't show up on a spec sheet

@@junkerzn7312 I love your take on the ID4 and what features really matter to you. So many of the reviews and or comments focus on such small details that people loose sight of the car overall. If you like the car buy it, drive it and enjoy it. The ID4 is a great option in my opinion as are other EV's too. The best news is that we have more and more choices every day.