That is a great point thanks for sharing and for watching! :)

Yeah I gotta replace timing chain and actuator. 1300$ labor n parts :) sucks

Thank you for sharing, that is a valid point rust is a thing to look out for especially in the rust belt states! Thanks for watching! :)

Glad you found the video helpful! Let us know how it goes! :)

Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching! :)

Thank you for your kind words! I’m glad to hear you found the video helpful. Thanks for watching and all the best if you decide to go ahead with buying one! 😊

Great to hear that enjoy your new ride! Thanks for watching!

I bought an 01 GS 300 several years ago it's still running. I've had many repairs, radiator, fans, ball joint coil packs etc.. but I still love the car. I also have a significant oil leak. Not sure where it's coming from

Glad you enjoyed the video! I agree they are wonderful vehicles. Thanks for watching!

@@theautochap no problem!

Thanks for the kind words and for watching! :)

Happy to hear about your purchase, I’m sure it will last much much longer provided you show it a little love! Thanks for watching :)

Sounds like a great choice and I’m glad you’re enjoying your ride! Thanks for watching! :)

You’re most welcome! Thanks for watching! :)

Thank you for the kind words, and I'm glad you found the video helpful! And congrats on the GS! Unfortunately I completed this service on my car a little while before I started this channel, but the process is very easy. The ball joint only has three fasteners you need to remove - outer tie rod to ball joint, lower control arm to ball joint, and two fasteners connecting the steering knuckle to ball joint. Here is what you would need to do: 1. Remove wheel 2. Remove brake caliper (place it on a bucket or something tall so that the brake hose doesn't flex) 3. Disconnect tie rod end from the lower ball joint - you need a Pitman arm puller for this. AutoZone rents one out, here it is - www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/parts-puller-installer/p/oemtools-1-3-16in-opening-pitman-arm-puller/555623_0_0?cmpid=PLA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:816645350&gclid=CjwKCAjwvNaYBhA3EiwACgndgpMOv1rH-s_KkZdHL3wkYOUXbFbKTk1uh403651jAtT7TT1_a2ZjBRoCYNMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Remember that you will need a new cotter pin as it's not supposed to be reused. 4. Remove the two bolts connecting the lower ball to the steering knuckle. 5. Finally, use the Pitman arm puller again to separate the ball joint from the lower control arm after removing the cotter pin like last time (don't forget to replace it). The lower ball joint will now come off. Installation is just the reverse order! If you run into any trouble, or you need a clarification at any point, you can email me at thelexuschap@gmail.com and I'll get back to you as soon as I can. Good luck, and thanks for watching! :)

@@theautochap awesome, I appreciate that you replied to my comment as well as taking the time to type up the step by step instructions to complete that taks... I thank you, 3 mega tons and half load of thank you..LoL

Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for watching! :)

Thanks for watching! 😀

Definitely another great car from Lexus, I love the unique front headlamps and cherry walnut interior they have. Hope you enjoy your car for a long time and thanks for watching! :)

Thanks for watching! :)

That is great to hear I hope you enjoy your ride for many years to come! Thanks for watching! :)

Gs300 ftw!

Had any issues with lower ball joint like they have been saying ?

The display is a Sony XAVAX1000 double din, and the dash kit around it is a Scosche LS2083B dash kit. You’ll also need a Metra wiring harness for the install. Here are the links for all 3 products: 1. Sony XAVAX1000 - www.amazon.com/Sony-XAVAX1000-CarPlay-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B07JDFKQJ5 2. Scosche dash kit - www.amazon.com/SCOSCHE-LS2083B-1998-03-Double-Install/dp/B000NWEJVG 3. Metra wiring harness - www.bestbuy.com/site/metra-wiring-harness-for-most-1987-2007-toyota-and-scion-vehicles-black/9810443.p?skuId=9810443 Thanks for watching! :)

Hi Dale, sorry to hear about your car! Coming to the 98’ GS 300, the low miles are a big plus especially as mileage is not really an issue on these cars provided they have been maintained well (mine is currently at 350k km and still runs like a dream). The price seems to be on par too considering the current used car market and the low miles. However there are still a few things that wear out even when the car is not driven, such as rubber suspension bushings which become hard and brittle over time. This is not really a big issue as suspension parts are cheap and easily replaced. Same thing with the timing belt, you still have some miles left before you hit the mileage point for service but Lexus recommends that it be changed every 6 years regardless of mileage. The one thing I would suggest you think about is the fact that it is a 98’ model, as I mentioned in the video they have less robust brake boosters. The low miles mean that you probably have a good chunk of service life left from the booster, but try to find if the brake fluid was changed as old fluid can accrue water over time and is not good for the seals. Other than that, try and look for a record of timely oil changes and general service (tire rotations, air filter changes etc). There’s not too much that can go wrong with these cars and if the above things check out it should last you many, many more miles. All the best with your purchase (if you decide to go ahead)! Keep us updated and let me know if you have any other questions! :)

@@theautochap Thanks again for the valuable advice mate, I will update you as soon as I get the car. Cheers!

@@theautochap - finally got the 1998 GS300 I mentioned! it has only got 60,583 km odometer now. happy to share pics but not sure where. BTY - any advice what to check first? not sure about brake boosters mentioned. unfortunately it has not much to say about the log book as this car was used as some kind of a trophy as a symbol of financial achievement of the seller's dad and stayed more in the garage than the road - (just looking at it) until the children decided that it has to go as the dad is now in old and the car is eating up space in the several car garage. Will visit my friend mechanic (Toyota) and seek advice on what to get check/maintained first as priority. Thanks again Lexus Chap.

@@OldDogNewTricks_at_60 Hi Dale, congrats on the GS! You can send pictures to my email: thelexuschap@gmail.com Here is what I would suggest doing first: 1. Before you start the car up, ENSURE that there is enough engine oil and it does not smell burnt. Also make sure you have enough coolant. Both engine oil/coolant should not be milky/thick. 2. For the brake fluid, just check if it is clear and not dark, and cap is tight. Make sure level is good. 3. If all these are fine you can start the car up. See if engine idle RPM is steady. Perform the brake test as I described in the video (hold pedal and see if it sinks to the floor). 4. After starting the car, check to see if there is transmission fluid (ATF) on the cold area of the transmission dipstick (I cover that in my most recent video on how to change the transmission fluid). It’s not the most reliable indicator but there is no way to check the ATF level without starting the car. 5. Shift through all the gears slowly with your foot on the brake. If it’s smooth, then take it for a short drive. Make sure the transmission shifts smoothly. If you feel any jerks/slippage, the transmission fluid level may be low, so turn the car off ASAP as you don’t want the transmission to overheat. 6. If you’re able to drive well, try and see if the brakes work well first at low speeds and then higher speeds so you’re safe. See if you hear any creaking/clunking noises while braking/turning (front suspension bushings/tie rods may be shot) or clunks when going over bumps (may be bad rear/front suspension bushings depending on where the noise is coming from). 7. Change the engine oil and transmission fluid (they’re pretty easy, I’ve made tutorials for both of these on my channel if you need any guidance) These are the most pertinent things you should look at once you bring the car home. Since you mentioned you couldn’t find much by way of service history, I would recommend changing out lower ball joints, timing belt/water pump if you can’t confirm it’s been done in the last 6 years, and the serpentine belt if it looks cracked/shows a lot of wear. Since the miles are so low you should be safe from oil leaks but hoses become brittle over time so watch out for coolant/power steering fluid/vacuum leaks. A helpful tip is to check the splash panel under the engine for any fluids, as sometimes it catches leaks which then don't show up on the ground underneath the car. Feel free to post back if you need any clarifications on the above points/if you have any other questions. All the best :)

@@OldDogNewTricks_at_60 Also forgot to mention, I would also suggest flushing the brake fluid and replacing it with fresh fluid. Unless you have Toyota TechStream (their proprietary diagnostic software) it's best to have a Toyota/Lexus dealer do this as bleeding the ABS system properly requires the software. Here in Arizona, USA it costs around 150 USD so it's not crazy expensive and well worth the peace of mind.

Hello, The P0155 code (most likely) points to a bad oxygen sensor on Bank 2, sensor 1, so on the exhaust manifold in the engine bay towards the back. The OEM Denso sensor is around 100 USD and fairly easy to change out other than it might be on pretty tight due to rust. PB blaster and some heat might help if that’s the case. Regarding the alignment, it would be smart to make sure the car wasn’t in an accident that caused it to go out of alignment. Check for panel gaps, mismatched paint on panels, etc. and of course run the Carfax to see if there is any accident/damage record. It might just be due to work suspension components as well, those are fairly straightforward to change out. The HVAC servo motor is fairly inexpensive to fix, the most expensive part is the driver side blend servo which I couldn’t find an aftermarket brand for, so if that one’s bad you’ll need to get the OEM one which is around 100 USD. Replacing them is kind of a pain because they are located under the dash right next to the heater core (passenger side) and steering column (driver side) and you’ll be on your back with no space to maneuver. But there are a lot of videos online that show you how to do it. For the remaining stuff, I would suggest going through my video and making a checklist of the common issues I mention (brake booster, ball joints, engine fluid condition). At 1700 USD you may not be able to expect too much, but it always helps to know about major issues before your decide to buy it. Hopefully this was helpful and thanks for watching! :)

@@theautochap Thanks for the info and video! I'll keep your advice in mind when I check out the car.

Hello! I’m glad you found the video helpful! $3900 for 181k miles is not too bad, especially with how the used car market is currently. Definitely check out the maintenance records if any, as it should be due for a timing belt change if it hasn’t been done yet. Regarding avoiding 99’s - the nature of the issues with the brake boosters in pre-01 models years are that they are much more likely to fail, at what point though no one can say. So even if the brakes check out while you test drive it, there is no guarantee they won’t fail down the road. Normally fixing a brake booster is not a big deal but with the GS 300, since the booster comes integrated with the ABS computer, pump, etc. it’s an extremely expensive affair to the tune of approx. $2000. You do have the option of getting an 01-05 used brake booster but I would NOT suggest going with a used brake booster because of safety issues. Given the nature of brake systems and how safety-critical they are, I would suggest going with a 2001-05 model as those came with a much better design for the brake booster. Since you said you’re in the market for other Lexus models too, just to expand your range, I would suggest looking into 1st gen. IS 300s (2001-2005). They have the exact same engine/transmission as the GS 300, and are just as reliable. And if the brake booster is bad, you can replace it and not pay an arm and a leg in the process. I hope that helps, and let me know if you have any more questions! All the best with your search and thank you for watching! :)

@@theautochap means the world and I will take all advice in consideration! Thank you so much

@@dopeydocc4016 No worries at all, keep us updated on what you get! :)

Thanks for watching! :)

Hi Paul, the main things to look out for are: 1. Lower ball joints 2. Faulty brake booster (avoid 1998-2001 models, as later years feature a revised, more robust design) 3. Power steering fluid type/condition 4. Oil leaks - near valve cover gasket, cam/crank seals near the timing belt area (cheap to fix if DIY’ed) 5. Timing belt - needs to be replaced very 90k miles to avoid breakage and possible engine damage. 6. Faulty door actuators (doors may not lock when you hit the button to lock them) 7. Chirping noise from behind the dash - faulty AC servos. Cheap to fix if DIY’ed, can be done without removing dashboard. That is a basic summary, to get more detailed info, I’ve included explanations in the video. Hope that helps!

You are correct - however making sure that it is not a serious issue like a blown head gasket/cracked block/head is difficult to do so in the short time frame that you are provided with during a test drive, as I mentioned in the video. It’s not really worth the risk especially when there are other cars to look at without any smoke at all. So in the end it’s up to you, but it’s definitely less riskier to look for other cars. Thanks for watching!

@@theautochap I didn't even hear you say that part about "Just going for a test drive" part. But you are correct if you start the car and a white plume comes out you should walk away, if you don't know how to diagnosis a car correctly.

Thanks for you insights and for watching! :)

That was from the previous owner unfortunately, since then I have switched over to the right constant tension type clamps. Thanks for watching! :)

Thanks for your comment! I appreciate you watching the video. I’m sorry but I don’t agree with you that these tests should not be performed during a test drive. The one thing I would like to add is that you should always ask the owner before you do them. In fact, on the very test drive I bought this 19 year old car, I asked the owner before performing a highway pull and before performing a panic stop to test the brakes, and after he confirmed he had no problems, executed them. Second, I don’t agree with your categorization of what I did on the video as abusing a car. What I did is a maneuver that everyone performs while overtaking a car - a very common scenario. On a modern automatic transmission, doing this especially from a running start as I did in the video has no chance of damaging the transmission. If the transmission is already bad/on its last legs, this test is helpful to expose it and save a lot of money avoiding a bad purchase. A 20 year old car has had a lot of miles on the transmission and you have no idea of how it has been maintained. The only way to know if the automatic transmission is okay is by testing it out under different loads which is why I show myself driving the car on the streets and on the freeway. If I asked an owner if I could do a pull and he said no because something might break, that would be my cue to pull over, thank the owner for his time and walk away from the car. I’m going to assume the worst case scenario that the owner is trying to hide something, because what I requested is something a well maintained A650e transmission should be able to pull off without any sweat.

It may be abuse to other cars but not on the gs300 , it’s built for it . I have one that I just gave to my little brother, the car has been past to different family members since it was new my uncle raced , drifted, burn out , doughnuts for years and it still drives like new . These cars engine are designed like sport cars normal cars will tear up but not the Lexus .