Did you use a camera like he did to see if it worked or if it's just your imagination? By the way I have some beach front property in Montana I'd like to sell you.

@AveGuy1 oh look, my comment's first snarky simpleton. FYI, yes, I've used my borescope several times since I purchased my vehicle to determine cylinder health, etc. My first degree is in automotive engineering, so data collection and analysis is second-nature at this point. I'd like to imagine that this would be important to people when making decisions, but judging by your need to troll, it's obvious you don't have much of an imagination. That's why you didn't offer any supporting evidence to the video to prove or disprove him. But hey... you keep doing you, princess.

@@koreylettenmaier3103you didn’t add any evidence either though?

@ixyzyxi true, but how am I supposed to? I'm not a KZfaq content creator. I don't want to be. I DID, however, originally state that the video's creator didn't read the instructions and sited what they say and why. Anyone can look those up and verify my point. I at least provided 'something' tangible.

@@koreylettenmaier3103 well true, here (in the Netherlands) a reputable company offers cleaning that basically works the same way so there must be some truth to the story. That machine goes for a lot longer (an hour ish) though so maybe you need to use more bottles if there’s more contamination. I think these bottles are ment to be preventive instead of actually fixing a problem though.

I did that here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p9hdgLGirMmwc3U.html But not everyone can remove all that and for some cars it will take so much time and tools

​@@AliMECH...Yeah ain't direct injection great...sure if you only keep your vehicle for 50kmi then trade it in, rinse repeat.

Yeah I always heard you're supposed to let it heat soak for about an hour and then go drive it at highway speeds for about 15 to 20 minutes. I think it even tells you that on the can.

You don’t rev it to 3500 rpm you don’t exceed 3500rpm

Engine oil is not in anyway in the same cycle as air nor fuel in the engine, if you have an issue where it IS then you need to get your car to a shop asap because one of your gaskets is fucked, three things that never mix, engine oil - air and fuel - coolant

Of course, but I don't understand your point on what I said. Poly Ether amine will cause some oil dilution due to blow-by. Gasoline also enters the oil in the same way. This is normal engine operation. My point was to make certain to change the engine oil after any concentrated fuel treatment, or in this case PEA detergent treatment into the air intake system. The detergent WILL alter the additive package in the oil. In addition, the detergent cleans the ring lands as you let the engine heat soak. So, some carbon will enter the oil, and most definitely the exhaust. Thus, it is important to change the oil after such treatments. Moreover, to much detergents in any oil will cause accelerated wear. (Sodium calcium and so forth. ) So, the oil chemists know what they are doing, a balance of anti wear, detergent, friction modifiers, anti foaming agents and so on in formulations.

ABC version...gas and any additive that is put in the fuel tank or the intake beyond the MAF will enter the engine oil in some amounts due to combustion and blow by.

Correct you must follow the directions exactly on the can . For even better results repeat 4 times every 1500 miles . Don't forget to change oil after 2nd and 4 th application . Will be dirty .

Thank you will give this a try .

Your lexus is a GDI fuel system?

Same as my 2021 Honda CRV, 1.5 turbo GDI, after I got it clean eventually, it runs great again, now every oil change I use a can

You are not doing it properly as per instructions on can if you had to do it 4 times .. also there is really no way that this would make your engine oil dirty .. this is combustion part of the engine .. Any carbon builds up dislodged will burn out through the exhaust

Thanks, sure I will give it a test too

You're most welcome! Brother,

This is the only video where the product did nothing. I find that very odd. He didn't let it heat soak for at least an hour and talking to the techs at CRC, they said it continues to clean for up to 1,000 miles. On other videos testing this product the valves were still wet on top after the drive. That's how it's supposed to be according to CRC. Something wasn't done right here.

​@RobinIntell I'm with you! & you're supposed to have the engine running @ 2k rpm while intermittently spraying... several incorrect procedures here

He did the procedure wrong though, so his results are wrong. This product DOES work and it he'd done it RIGHT we would've seen better results!!

I'll check it out, thanks for watching

I use Xado products but not sure if this product would clean off the intake valves on a direct injection engine. Port injected engines intake valves are normally very clean due to the injection of fuel behind the valve which has a cleaning effect. With direct injection engines the fuel is injected directly into combustion chamber bypassing the intake valve. Intake valves build up carbon from the blow-by being recycled through the engine via PCV systems etc. which is normally cleaned on port injected engines but not direct injection engines.

@@gymrat3203 first of all that's what tests are for - to be sure :D And secondly you put Xado Anticarbon directly on the pistons through spark plug holes. I use it also through PCV hose on running engine - this way it can reach intake valves. That's serious chemical angent, can rip paint off metal. Not a toy like Seafoam :P

@@las3k91 I didn't think about putting it directly through PCV system which would clean back of the intake valves. I don't think my engine has a traditional PCV system. It is the GM 3.6 24 variable valve direct injection version. I'll have to do some research. Thanks!

Having owned a 2016 model, the sooner you get rid of that POS, the better.

@@anonymousinc6330 I couldnt agree more 💯

For the love of god do not use brake cleaner you will fck any maf sensors or sensors you have .. and no throttle body cleaner won’t do the same job

Thanks 👍

Both direct and port inyected.

Great to hear! Thanks for watching

You have rich burning, more fuel than air, check the fuel injectors,

@@AliMECH Thanks man. It's a GDI and the LTFT is also high, going above 10% while the STFT also goes positive while accelerating which is weird. I intially thought it would be a vacuum leak but if I choke the intake at idle, the engine dies rapidly and the intake rubber hoses remain squeezed from suction, which proves that there are no intake leaks that give those high fuel trims. I have taken out the injectors and cleaned them. Same results. Changed the inejctors with new one. Same results. Changed the high pressure fuel pump. Same thing. Changed both O2 sensors for 3 times. Same results. It turns my thinking upside down on why the ECU sends positive trim which makes everything very black in the exhaust. I don't know how to find the cause of the high fuel dosages given by the ECU. I've also changed the air intake sensors, IAT1 and MAP sensors thinking that these can foul the air data recieved by the ECU. Also changed the throttle body thinking that it sends more air than the valve angle reads for the ECU. Same result after all of these money spend on all of these parts. After each reset of all adaptations, the trims go to zero for a while, then wammm..., the STFT starts rising to some 16% positive and drags the LTFT with it there. Strange thing is that if I reset all adaptations and run the engine cold, like a miracle STFT trims remain close to zero and the LTFT is perfectly zero only up to when the engine coolant reaches some 70+ C. Above that coolant temp, the STFT rapidly rises to above 10..16% and stays there. It's weird why only when the coolant goes over 70C, the trim starts to go crazy up. The ECU pours more fuel for that and the resultant, black spark plugs, O2 sensors, cat converter intake mesh occurs. I don't get it what fouls the ECU after the engine coolant goes over 70C.

🙏

Not these models, only from 2018 above have injectors to clean valves

Yeah sounds like carbon buildup on the piston head then. That won’t fix valve buildup because the spark plug well goes into the cylinder passing the valves.

I had good results with it before when I pure it in gas tank here kzfaq.info/get/bejne/maybpLN5uOCpkps.html It cleaned piston carbon, bit I should try for Catalytic cleaning too

old wifes tail

I haven't use that, anything I use should be sensor safe and not damage throttle body, o2 sensor, there are so many harsh chemicals to remove carbon, but it will damage something else

I will then if it worked for you 🙏😅

@@AliMECH tq, dont forget to make review too🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼

🙏🙏

Sure, i will try

www.mariettatoyota.com/toyota-camry-performance/#:~:text=It%20boasts%20Toyota%20Direct%20Injection,intelligence%20(VVT%2Di).

@@AliMECH There is no high pressure fuel pump on your engine, thus it does not have direct injection.

D'oh...😲

This car not a direct injection

@@SilentHeartx 0:11 listen

@@US_AND_IL_ARE_WAR_CRIMINALS Thank you. I think 2ar-fe engine not gdi. Because the injectors above the valves inside the manifold.

Toyota csmry is Direct Injection (TDI) and 16-valve dual variable valve timing with intelligence (VVT-i), the reason it didn't work, because the cleaner not that harsh, it's designed to be spared from throttle body and turbo, if its that harsh for cleaning carbon, it will damage throttle body and turbo bearings This can be used regularly to keep the engine clean but not removing heavy carbon buildup

How about brake cleaner through vacuum hose, is that harsher? Did that on my Honda Accord R20A3

Yes, the car is still new 😅

@@AliMECH how many miles to make it old

@@petermuniz9296 Years...

Yes, I agree

How are they supposed to still be there with the engine running at 2000 rpm? Just gets sucked in, burned and blown out the exhaust.

Maybe if I used it with light carbon, it will keep the engine clean